Marius genser (modern) — Size: 1 year
Bright, classic Norwegian Marius yoke worked top-down in the round with stranded colorwork. This pattern is written for one size (1 year). Gauge, materials and stitch counts are included so you can adapt if you want a different yarn or slight adjustments.
Finished measurements
- Chest (finished, unstretched): 21 in / 53 cm
- Length (shoulder to hem): 11.5 in / 29 cm
- Sleeve length from underarm: 5.5 in / 14 cm (total sleeve length approx 10.5 in / 26.5 cm)
- Recommended positive ease: 0–1 in / 0–2.5 cm (adjust by adding or removing body length)
Yarn
Traditional Marius uses a sturdy wool — DK/Light Worsted recommended.
- Weight: DK / Light Worsted (approx 22–24 sts = 4 in / 10 cm)
- Suggested: wool DK: 50 g / 115 yd (105 m) per skein (example values)
- Requirements for this size (approx):
- Main color (MC): 1 x 50 g skein — 115 yd / 105 m
- Contrast color 1 (CC1): 25 g — ~57 yds / 52 m
- Contrast color 2 (CC2): 25 g — ~57 yds / 52 m
Use full-fat wool or washable if you prefer. If using a different yarn, check gauge and adjust needle sizes and stitch counts as needed.
Needles
- Ribbing / small needle: US 5 / UK 9 / 3.75 mm — 16 in / 40 cm circular (or DPNs)
- Main / yoke: US 6 / UK 8 / 4.0 mm — 16 in / 40 cm circular for small circumference work, and a longer 24–32 in / 60–80 cm circular for the yoke and magic-loop or DPNs as preferred
- Optional larger needle (if you prefer looser fabric): US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm
Notions
- Stitch markers (4 identical markers + 1 contrasting start-of-round marker)
- Tapestry needle
- Waste yarn or holders for sleeves
Gauge
22 sts x 28 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on 4.0 mm (US 6) needles after blocking. Check your gauge before starting — stranded colorwork can pull fabric tighter, so swatch in stranded pattern if possible.
Abbreviations
- k = knit
- p = purl
- k2tog = knit two together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch (increase)
- M1 = make one (work a left- or right-leaning M1 as you prefer)
- pm = place marker
- sm = slip marker
- MC = Main Color
- CC = Contrast Color
Construction overview
Top-down raglan with stranded yoke. Work neck rib, then raglan increase rounds while working the Marius colorwork bands. After reaching the required raglan/underarm stitch count, place sleeve stitches on holders and continue the body down in the round. Return to sleeves to knit to cuff and finish ribbing.
Stitch counts and planning (numbers for this size)
- Target chest circumference stitches (after separation): 116 sts (this gives ~53 cm chest at gauge)
- Sleeve stitches at underarm: 36 sts each
- Total stitches on needles at end of yoke (before separation): 116 (body) + 36 + 36 = 188 sts
- Starting neck cast-on chosen so the number of raglan increase rounds is an integer: Cast on 60 sts for the neck. After 16 increase rounds (8 sts every increase round) you will have 60 + 16*8 = 188 sts.
Pattern: Top-down Marius genser — 1 year
Neck / rib
- Using 3.75 mm (US 5 / UK 9) circular, CO 60 sts. Join carefully, being sure not to twist. Place marker for start of round.
- Work in 2x2 rib (k2, p2) for 0.75 in / 2 cm (or 6 rounds) — this creates a neat neck edge.
- Switch to 4.0 mm (US 6 / UK 8) circular. Work one round in MC knit to set needle tension.
Set up for raglan increases
- On the next round, distribute stitches and place raglan markers: *K15, pm*; repeat 4 times (you will have 4 markers dividing the round into 4 sections of 15 sts each). These sections will become: sleeve1, front, sleeve2, back. The counts will grow with increases.
- We will perform raglan increases every other round using kfb directly before and after each marker (this increases 2 sts per raglan seam = 8 sts per increase round).
Yoke increases with Marius colorwork
Work the yoke in the round, maintaining this pattern of rounds:
- Increase round (every other round): *K to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, kfb; repeat from * around.
- Round after increase: knit all stitches (in MC) to rest the fabric and keep colorwork tension even.
Repeat these two rounds (i.e., increase round, plain round) 16 times total. That is: do increase/knit rounds 16 times so you add 128 sts overall and reach a total of 188 sts at the end of the last plain round.
Start stranded colorwork (Marius motif) after you have completed 4–6 of the increase pairs — this prevents the motif from appearing too close to the neck. A typical placement: begin colorwork when there are approximately 92–120 sts on the round so the pattern band falls across upper chest and shoulders. For this size start the stranded pattern after 6 increase pairs (after 6 increases and the following plain rounds) — but you can adjust visually.
Colorwork band — Marius-yoke motif (charted)
Below is a simplified 24-stitch chart for one repeat of the Marius-inspired band. Read each row right to left for knitting in the round. Use three colors: A = MC, B = CC1, C = CC2. Repeat across the round. Maintain even tension and catch floats every 3–4 stitches.
Chart width = 24 sts (repeat across round)
Row 1: A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A
Row 2: A A B A A A A A B A A A A A B A A A A A B A A A
Row 3: A B B B A A A A B B B A A A B B B A A A A B B B A
Row 4: A A B A A A A A B A A A A A B A A A A A B A A A
Row 5: A A A A C C C C A A A A C C C C A A A A C C C C A
Row 6: A A C A C C C A A A C A C C C A A A C A C C C A
Row 7: A A A A C C C C A A A A C C C C A A A A C C C C A
Row 8: A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A
Notes: This chart is a compact motif inspired by Marius patterns, not a reproduction of any protected design. Repeat the 24-stitch chart across each colorwork round. If your stitch count isn’t divisible by 24, work as many full repeats as possible then fill the remaining stitches with MC (A) or a partial repeat — keep symmetry where you can.
Finishing the yoke and dividing for sleeves
- After you have completed the planned number of increases (16 increase rounds total) and the colorwork rounds as desired, you will have 188 sts on the round.
- Arrange the stitches for separation: slip the first 36 sts (sleeve 1) onto waste yarn or a holder, remove marker, then next 58 sts = front; place a marker to denote front/underarm; slip next 36 sts (sleeve 2) onto waste yarn; next 58 sts = back. Join the front and back stitches for the body in the round (116 sts remain on the needles).
Body
- With MC on 4.0 mm (US 6) needles, knit in the round in stockinette until body measures 7.5 in / 19 cm from underarm (or your desired torso length). You may choose to add a few rounds of slipped-stitch edge or additional small color bands if you like.
- Switch to 3.75 mm (US 5) needles. Work 2x2 rib (k2, p2) for 0.75 in / 2 cm. Bind off loosely in pattern.
Sleeves
- Return the sleeve sts (36 sts) to needles. Place a marker for beginning of round. With MC on 4.0 mm (US 6) needles, knit in the round.
- Knit until sleeve measures 5.5 in / 14 cm from underarm (or desired length). For a snugger cuff, you may decrease 2–4 sts evenly spaced over the last 1.5 in / 4 cm before ribbing.
- Switch to 3.75 mm (US 5) needles. Work 2x2 rib for 0.75 in / 2 cm. Bind off loosely in pattern. Repeat for second sleeve.
Neck finishing (optional)
- If you prefer a firmer neck: pick up and knit approx 60 sts evenly around the neckline with 3.75 mm needles and work 2x2 rib for 0.5–1 in / 1.5–2.5 cm, then bind off in rib.
- Alternatively, use the initial ribbing and a narrow sewn-down facing if you like a cleaner roll.
Weaving in and blocking
- Weave in all ends on the wrong side. Be mindful of stranded floats inside the yoke — you can weave them down for extra warmth or trim slack.
- Gently block the finished sweater to measurements: soak, squeeze, lay flat and smooth to dimensions. Traditional wool will bloom; be conservative with stretching — aim for the gauge measurements and finished dimensions listed above.
Notes, fit and customization
- To make larger/smaller: change needle size or gauge and recalc totals: target chest stitches = desired circumference (cm) * (stitches per cm). Start neck cast-on so that (final total stitches - cast-on) is divisible by 8 to produce a whole number of raglan increases, or adjust number of increase rounds accordingly.
- If you want more pronounced Marius stripes, add more rows of the color band or use thicker yarn and larger needles and adapt counts.
- If stranded colorwork causes the yoke to be tight, use a needle one size larger for the yoke rounds (but keep ribbing needles smaller for elastic edges).
Abbreviated pattern summary
- CO 60. Rib 2x2 for 2 cm on 3.75 mm needles.
- Switch to 4.0 mm. Place markers: 4 sections of 15 sts each.
- Work (Increase round: *k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, kfb*; Next round: knit) — repeat this pair 16 times = total 188 sts.
- Introduce Marius colorwork band during the yoke (see chart), spacing as desired.
- Place sleeves on holders: 36 sts each. Remaining 116 sts = body. Continue body down to 19 cm from underarm, rib, bind off.
- Return to sleeves: knit to length, rib and bind off.
Support & license
If you have fit questions, yarn substitution questions or need help adapting the pattern, please contact support: team@verde.uk. Pattern and instructions are provided for personal use. For pattern re-distribution or commercial sale, please contact the designer.
Website: https://purljam.verde.uk | Socials: #purljam
Enjoy your knitting — if you want this adapted for 2–3 sizes or prefer a true chart-only Marius motif, write back with the size/sizing range and I’ll draft those numbers.