Men's Boxy Drop-Shoulder Sweater (6 mm needles) - Finished bust ~100 cm

Relaxed, boxy pullover worked flat in stockinette with a 2x2 rib hem, cuffs and neck. Drop-shoulder design keeps shaping very simple — great for a confident beginner or anyone who wants a quick, satisfying knit. Make one to fit approx 100 cm (39.5") chest. Adjust easily using the gauge and notes below.

Needles

Straight needles (or circular for working flat): 6 mm (US 10 / UK-old 4)
Circular needle (optional, for neck or magic loop): 6 mm (US 10 / UK-old 4) — 80 cm / 32" recommended if using magic loop
Double-pointed needles (optional, for small-circumference work): 6 mm (US 10 / UK-old 4)

Yarn

Aran / Worsted weight yarn, approx 100 g = 200 m (219 yd)
Estimated total yarn: 6–7 skeins (100 g each) => 1200–1400 m (1312–1533 yd) depending on length and tension. Use more for longer body or sleeves.

Finished measurements

Chest (circumference): ~100 cm / 39.5"
Front/Back width (laid flat): ~50 cm / 19.75"
Body length (hem to shoulder): ~62 cm / 24.5" (adjustable)
Sleeve length (shoulder to cuff): ~60 cm / 23.5" (adjustable)

Gauge

16 stitches x 22 rows = 10 cm / 4" in stockinette on 6 mm needles. Take time to swatch and wash to match gauge — this pattern assumes that gauge.

Abbreviations

K = knit
P = purl
K2tog = knit two together
P2tog = purl two together
St(s) = stitch(es)
RS = right side, WS = wrong side
CO = cast on, BO = bind off
tbl = through back loop

Notes

All pieces are worked flat and seamed. This boxy drop-shoulder has no shoulder shaping; sleeves are set into openings you leave when seaming (drop-shoulder style).
Measurements are flexible: change body length before binding off at shoulders, and change sleeve increases for different arm size.
If you need a different finished chest, use the gauge (16 sts = 10 cm) to calculate cast-on: desired half-chest width (cm) x 1.6 = stitches to cast on. Make the number divisible by 4 for 2x2 rib.

Pattern

Back (make 1)

Cast on 80 sts. Work 2x2 rib (K2, P2) for 7 cm (about 31 rows). Change to stockinette (RS: knit, WS: purl) and work until piece measures 62 cm from cast-on edge (including rib) or desired length to shoulder. Do not shape armholes — leave full width. BO loosely.

Front (make 1)

Work the same as Back so front and back widths match (cast on 80 sts, rib 7 cm, stockinette until same length of 62 cm). If you want a slightly lower front neck, at 60% of the final body length you can shape a shallow neck (optional):

When front measures 56–58 cm from cast-on (adjust to how deep you want the neck), BO center 6–10 sts (odd or even so shoulders remain balanced), then work each shoulder separately, binding off 2 sts at the neck edge once before continuing until total length equals back, then BO remaining shoulder sts to match the back width. This is optional — many prefer the simple, unshaped front for boxy styles.

Sleeves (make 2)

Cast on 60 sts. Work 2x2 rib for 7 cm (about 31 rows). Change to stockinette and work increases for sleeve shaping as follows (drop-shoulder style gives a gentle taper):

Row 1 (RS): K1, M1, knit to last st, M1, K1 (2 stitches increased)
Work 7 rows even in stockinette.
Repeat the increase row every 8th row a total of 8 times (or until sleeve circumference at bicep matches approx 36–38 cm). After 8 increases you will have added 16 sts: 60 + 16 = 76 sts (76 sts ÷ 1.6 ≈ 47.5 cm relaxed circumference — if you prefer slimmer sleeves stop earlier).

Continue in stockinette until sleeve measures approx 60 cm from cast-on (or adjust for your arm length) leaving 7 cm for cuff. Work 2x2 rib for final 7 cm; BO loosely.

Finishing & Assembly

Block all pieces gently to measurements (wet-block if using wool, follow yarn care instructions).
Lay front and back with WS facing. Seam shoulders using mattress stitch. Because this is a drop-shoulder, shoulders are broad and no shoulder shaping is required.
Seam side seams from hem up for a length that leaves a sleeve opening of about 20 cm (measure from underarm down): for example, seam from hem up 20 cm, leave 20 cm open for the sleeve hole, then seam the rest up to the shoulder. You can alter the sleeve opening by seaming less (bigger opening) or more (smaller opening). Typical drop-shoulder opening = 20 cm.
Set sleeves in: align top of sleeve to top edge of opening and seam sleeve into opening using mattress stitch, easing any small fullness. Repeat for second sleeve.
Weave in ends. Block lightly again if desired.

Neckband (optional tidy finish)

Pick up and knit approximately 80 sts evenly around the neckline with 6 mm circular or straight needles (adjust so picked-up sts equal a multiple of 4 for 2x2 rib). Work 2x2 rib for 3–5 cm, then BO loosely in rib pattern. Alternatively, make a rolled neck by leaving raw edge and blocking to curl slightly.

Adjustments

To change bust size: use gauge and multiply desired half-bust (cm) by 1.6 to get cast-on sts. Keep cast-on divisible by 4 for 2x2 rib.
For narrower sleeves, reduce initial CO or stop increases earlier. For fuller sleeves, increase more frequently or cast on more sts.
To lengthen/shorten body or sleeves simply add/subtract in 1 cm increments (approx 4.4 rows per cm).

Tips

Work a large swatch and wash it as you will treat the finished sweater — yarn can bloom and gauge may change.
When seaming, use a spare length of yarn in the same color to test mattress stitch tension before using main yarn.
If you prefer seamless construction, convert this into a top-down raglan using the same final stitch counts and proportions; that method avoids seaming but requires a different shaping approach.

Pattern by PurlJam. For help or support: https://purljam.verde.uk • support: team@verde.uk • socials: #purljam

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