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purlJam

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Men’s Raglan Open-Front Buttoned Hooded Cardigan—44” Finished Chest (Super Bulky #6)

Designer notes: Top-down raglan construction with strong vertical/diagonal texture panels for a solid masculine, modern silhouette. Worked in bulky #6 yarn with either a tighter fabric stitch pattern or a slightly larger hook for drape. This pattern assumes intermediate—advanced crochet skills (post stitches, cable-like post manipulation, reversible texture). Yarn and hook options, gauge, full materials list, five original advanced stitch patterns (fully written step-by-step), and complete row-by-row instructions for a finished 44” chest are included. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk Support: team@verde.uk Socials: #purljam

Materials

Gauge

In main body stitch pattern (see “Masculine Ridge Basketweave” below), using US J/10 (6.0 mm) gauge: 12 sts x 8 rows = 4" / 10 cm. Swatch 6" x 6" and block to check. If gauge differs, change hook size to match the gauge and re-calculate final stitch counts.

Finished Measurements

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch = chain, sc = single crochet, hdc = half double crochet, dc = double crochet, tr = treble (UK tr), st(s) = stitch(es), sl st = slip stitch, sk = skip, fpdc = front-post double crochet, bpdc = back-post double crochet, RS = right side, WS = wrong side, rep = repeat, yo = yarn over, BLO = back loop only, FLO = front loop only.

Pattern Concept and Construction Overview

Top-down raglan worked flat across the back, both fronts, and each sleeve as the yoke. Raglan increases occur on four raglan lines (two front-edge raglan lines count as separate panels for an open front). After reaching the desired yoke depth, separate sleeves and body. Work body downward in pattern stitch panels (Masculine Ridge Basketweave central body + Vertical Diagonal Cable panels at front edges). Sleeves are worked in the round or joined-round in textured rib (Ragged Star Rib). Hood is worked flat and seamed; a strong double-band button band is added to the right front with buttonholes; left front receives matching band with reinforcement. Finishing includes blocking, attaching buttons, and weaving in ends.

Stitch Patterns (Five new advanced stitches — full step-by-step)

Important: Each stitch sample should be swatched at least 3” square to get comfortable with the placement of post stitches and to check gauge. Each pattern below lists a multiple where needed.

1) Masculine Ridge Basketweave (MRB) — dense, masculine panel

Use where you need a wider, solid panel (body sides and back center). Multiple: multiple of 4 + 2 turning ch.

  1. Row 1 (RS): Ch even number (multiple of 4 + 2). Work sc in 2nd ch from hook, *hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, rep from * across, turn.
  2. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, *dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn.
  3. Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn.
  4. Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first st, *hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, sc in next st, rep from * to end, turn.
  5. Repeat Rows 1–4. Key technique: shift the three-stitch vertical group (sc/hdc/dc/dc) every row to create raised ridges that alternate and interlock like basketweave. For solid fabric, work slightly tighter tension and use post-shaping in adjacent cable rows if combining with cables.

2) Diagonal Raised Cable Panel (DRC) — tilted cable that reads vertical from a distance

Use for narrow panels beside fronts and down center back if desired. Multiple: multiple of 6 + 3.

  1. Row 1 (RS): Ch multiple + 3. Dc in 4th ch from hook and across in dc. Turn.
  2. Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), *fpdc around next dc (yarn over hook, insert from front around post of stitch below, draw up loop, yo, pull through 2 twice), dc in next 2 sts, bpdc around next dc, rep from * to last st, hdc in top of turning ch, turn. This mixes front- and back-post to create depth.
  3. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, *skip next st, 2-dc cluster (yo, insert in next st, draw up, yo pull through 2, yo insert in skipped st, draw up, yo pull through 2, yo pull through all loops) to cross sts diagonally, sc in next st, rep across, turn. The 2-dc cluster crosses the skipped st and creates the diagonal shift.
  4. Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in first st, *dc in next 2 sts, fpdc around next post, rep across, turn. Repeat Rows 2–4. Each 3-row repeat shifts the cable slant by one vertical group, producing a diagonal cable effect. Keep tension firm for defined columns.

3) Ragged Star Rib (RSR) — narrow rib used for cuffs and hood brim

Creates deep tactile ribbing using alternating post stitches. Multiple: any.

  1. Row 1 (RS): Ch (if starting in rows) 1, sc in first st, *fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st, rep across, sc in last st, turn.
  2. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st (working into top loops), *bpdc around next fpdc post (note: you work into post of previous row), fpdc around next bpdc post, rep across, sc in last st, turn.
  3. Repeat Rows 1–2. For in-the-round ribbing: Work alternating fpdc and bpdc around in a round; no turning chains. This yields a highly elastic rib for cuffs and hood brim.

4) Dense Moss Cross (DMC) — dense cross-hatch, great for masculine panels that resist sag

Multiple: even number.

  1. Row 1: Ch even. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch, rep across, turn. (This sets up moss)
  2. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 1, sk next ch-1 space, sc in next st, rep, turn. This creates a deep moss pattern. For density: work BLO sc on the row after 4 repeats to tuck the loops and compress the fabric slightly for a heavier hand.
  3. Tip: To make the cross effect stronger, on every 4th row replace the ch-1 with ch-2 and work sc in the second space across; this shifts the crosses and builds a secondary diagonal.

5) Reverse Wave Panel (RWP) — broad reversed wave using short rows and staggered clusters

Multiple: multiple of 8 + 2.

  1. Row 1 (RS): Ch multiple + 2. Dc in 3rd ch from hook and across, turn.
  2. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, *sk next 2 sts, (3-dc cluster) in next st (make cluster by making 3 partial dc and finishing together), sc in next st, rep across, turn.
  3. Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in first st, *dc in cluster space, hdc in next st, rep across, turn. This expands the cluster into wave troughs.
  4. Row 4: Repeat Row 2 but offset cluster placement by 2 sts to reverse the wave. Repeat Rows 2–4. Short rows for depth: optionally drop last 4 sts of wave and come back for turning rows to accentuate the reverse depth on the RS. Use careful counting to keep edges straight.

How stitches combine in this pattern

Main Measurements and Stitch Math (based on gauge)

Gauge: 12 sts = 4". To get 44” chest finished: 44" / 4" = 11 units of 12 sts = 11 * 12 = 132 sts total around body in main pattern. Yoke calculation uses four sections: Left Front (LF), Right Front (RF), Back (B), Two sleeves (S each), plus 4 raglan stitch columns (one on each raglan seam). Because this is an open-front cardigan, LF and RF remain separate and include front edge panels. For top-down style we begin with a neck foundation that equals the back neck width, then add raglan increases until the total stitch count (including fronts and sleeve stitches) reaches the desired split counts to yield 132 sts around the body after sleeves are set aside.

Yoke Setup (Top-down, flat)

Note: This is written specifically for the 44” chest using the stated gauge. If your gauge differs, calculate the total stitches for desired chest using pattern stitch gauge and adjust the starting neck chain accordingly.

  1. Neck foundation: Ch 48 (this gives a comfortable neckline that will expand during raglan shaping; the ch corresponds to back + small portion of fronts; adjust if you prefer a lower/higher neckline). Work a row of MRB set-up row across chain to create a firm neck band for 4 rows (see MRB Row 1–4). Place markers at these positions after Row 4 to mark raglan placement: Marker 1 = left raglan (after 12 sts from RS edge), Marker 2 = left sleeve separation (after next 18 sts), Marker 3 = right raglan (after next 36 sts), Marker 4 = right sleeve separation (after next 18 sts). These marker spacings are starting points and will be increased evenly.
  2. Yoke increase rows (RS/WS rows count as 1 row each): We will increase 8 sts every 2 rows (4 raglan lines x 2 outer increases = 8 sts per increase round). Repeat increases until you reach the underarm division when the total live stitches equal approx 132 + (sleeve sts). Target pre-separation stitches: about 180 sts (this allows 2 sleeves of ~24 sts held each and body 132 sts left). Example repeat scheme below:
  3. Increase row (RS): Work MRB/ DMC combination across back, when you come to a raglan marker: (sc, ch 1, sc) in the marker position to create a visible raglan column and increase 2 sts. Continue across to next marker and repeat. Turn.
  4. Next row (WS): Work pattern stitch back across keeping the ch-1 spaces as single sc cluster; place markers in the created ch-1 spaces if they move. Repeat increase rows every RS row (or every other row for gentler slope) until you have reached 180 total sts (or until yoke depth measures 9" from cast-on, whichever comes first). Typical number of increase sets: 5–6 sets if increasing every other RS row. Keep notes of increases per raglan line.

Separate Sleeves and Body

  1. When you have the target yoke depth and total stitches, you will place the sleeve stitches on holders/ waste yarn. Formula at separation: Place next N sts for Left Front, then place next S sts for Sleeve 1 on holder (approx 24 sts for this gauge and sleeve width), then place next M sts for Back, then place next S sts for Sleeve 2 on holder, then remaining for Right Front. After removing sleeves, join for body: the body should total 132 sts. Pick up the dropped sleeve stitches later and work sleeves in the round or joined rounds. If your pre-separation counts differ slightly, pick sleeve counts so that body remains 132 sts.
  2. Body: On the body stitches (132 sts), establish pattern layout: Back center MRB panel: 44 sts, Side MRB panels: 20 sts each, Front DRC vertical panels adjacent to the front edge: 8 sts each, remaining sts used to create transitional moss/density panels as needed. Work MRB across the back and sides and DRC at the front edges (right and left). Work downward until body length measures 28" from base of hood area (or desired length). Finish with 6 rows of RSR ribbing for hem (work in rows) or 1.5" of RSR in-the-round if you prefer a folded hem. Bind off in pattern. Leave long tail for weaving.

Sleeves

  1. Transfer held sleeve sts to hook (approx 24 sts). Join in the round and work RSR ribbing 1.5" (or 6 rows in back-and-forth if you prefer). Then switch to MRB or RSR alternation for the sleeve body. Work rounds decreasing 0–2 sts over the first 4–6" to shape the sleeve slightly. Work until sleeve from underarm measures 18". Finish with 6 rounds of RSR deep rib cuff; bind off.

Hood

  1. Pick up along neckline evenly. Work RSR brim 1.5" (same as cuffs) across entire front neck edge for stability. Then work RWP across hood crown for visual interest: Setup width equal to half the neckline width; work RWP in rows until hood measures 12–14" from base of neck to top crown (or 10–12" for smaller hood). Shape crown with short rows or simple decreases at center top until crown meets desired length. Fold and seam center back of hood, weave in ends, and top-stitch the hood base to the back neck for a clean finish.

Button Band and Buttonholes

  1. Right front (button side): Pick up stitches along right front edge and work a sturdy band: 6 rows of sc in BLO to create a thick band approx 1" wide. On Row 3 of the band, make evenly spaced buttonholes: To make a buttonhole: sc in next 2 sts, ch 2 (or ch 3 for larger buttons), sk same number of sts as ch made, continue. Make 6 buttonholes spaced ~2.25" apart down the band. Reinforce each buttonhole by working a round of sc around the ch space from the WS after finishing band.
  2. Left front (buttonhole tongue side): Work identical band but without ch spaces; add sewn button reinforcement if needed. Mark button positions by wrapping yarn and checking fit with chosen buttons before sewing.

Finishing

  1. Weave in ends. Block gently to shape. Sew buttons to match buttonholes. Add optional top-stitching along front edges for structure using matching or contrasting yarn in a tight mattress stitch.

Detailed Step-by-Step Example Row-by-Row (concise)

The following shows a condensed row-by-row for the yoke start and the first few raglan increases. Adjust counts if your gauge differs.

  1. Foundation ch 48. Row 1: Work MRB Row 1 across. Place markers at positions after 12 sts (=Marker A), after next 18 sts (=Marker B), after next 36 sts (=Marker C), after next 18 sts (=Marker D) to mark raglan lines. (Markers will guide increases.)
  2. Rows 2–4: Work MRB Rows 2–4 to build neck stability.
  3. Increase set 1 (RS): Work MRB until 2 sts before Marker A, sc, ch1, sc (increase), work into marker sts, continue until 2 sts before Marker B, sc,ch1,sc, continue for Marker C and D. Turn.
  4. WS: Work MRB across keeping ch-1 clusters as single sc spaces. Turn. Repeat increase sets every 2 rows until you reach approx 180 total sts (track with counters). Typical number of repeats: 5–6 increases depending on how many sts you add per set.
  5. When desired yoke depth and stitch totals reached, separate sleeves: place sleeve stitches onto waste yarn by slipping each stitch onto waste yarn between marked sleeve boundaries. The remaining stitches form body; verify body count = 132. Join to work body in the pattern layout described above. Proceed downward to hem; finish with RSR hem.

Full Stitch Tutorials (step-by-step, more detail for each new stitch)

Masculine Ridge Basketweave (MRB) — Tutorial

  1. Cast on (chain) an even multiple of 4 + 2 for width you need. Work Row 1: Starting RS, sc in 2nd ch from hook to create a reinforced edge, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch. Pay attention to the height difference: using sc + hdc + dc stacked gives a slight gradient that builds ridges. Continue sequence across; turn.
  2. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first st (into the sc of previous row), then follow the sequence so that the dc cluster falls immediately to the right of the sc of the previous row—this offset creates the basket weave. Working the dc cluster in the top loops of the dc below gives the raised effect. Keep tension consistent; compress slightly at the end of each row for density.
  3. Troubleshooting: If ridges do not appear, block swatch while pinning the vertical columns to reveal the ridged texture. For more pronounced ridges, exchange hdc for dc in the transitional stitch to accentuate height differences (but test gauge first).

Diagonal Raised Cable Panel (DRC) — Tutorial

  1. Work a base row of dc across (Row 1) to set uniform posts. Row 2 uses fpdc and bpdc alternation: to work an fpdc, yo, insert hook from front to back around the post of the stitch from the previous row, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo pull through remaining loops. This brings the post forward. To make a cable slant, on Row 3 you work 2-dc clusters crossing over a skipped stitch: make 2 partial dcs in the next st and the skipped st respectively then finish the cluster together to physically cross the columns. Repeat across, offsetting cluster placement every 2–3 rows to generate diagonal.
  2. Troubleshooting: Keep stitch markers at the edges of the DRC panel to ensure you maintain exact multiples and avoid slippage. When combining with MRB, place a single sc spacer between panels for a clean transition.

Ragged Star Rib (RSR) — Tutorial

  1. This rib uses fpdc and bpdc worked alternately. For in-the-round rib: join foundation round, then Round 1: *fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st, rep to end. Round 2: *bpdc around the fpdc from previous round, fpdc around the bpdc from previous round. Because you always work around a post stitch, your rib naturally lines up. Pull a little tighter than body tension for elasticity. For rows: alternate Row 1 — Row 2 as written above.

Dense Moss Cross (DMC) — Tutorial

  1. Set up: chain even. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch1, skip next ch, sc in next ch; repeat. Row 2 and following: sc into the top of the sc from previous row, ch1, skip the chain-1 space, sc in the next sc. The texture is reversible and dense; to add cross depth, every fourth row change ch1 to ch2 and shift the sc by one st. For a denser hand, work the sc BLO every 5th row to compress the top loops.

Reverse Wave Panel (RWP) — Tutorial

  1. Base row of dc creates a medium-height field. Cluster rows: make (3-dc cluster) by starting first dc but not completing, start second dc into the same st but not complete, start third dc, then yo and draw through all loops to join cluster. Offset these cluster placements every other cluster row to generate inverse wave ribs. Short-rowing: to increase the trough visual, stop 4 sts before the edge, turn, and work back; resume next row to build a trough. Use stitch markers to track short row wraps and avoid holes. Finish waves with a single sc round to compress the clusters if you desire a firmer crown.

Notes, Fit Adjustments, and Tips

Support and Patterns Policy

If you need clarification on a step, feel free to contact support at team@verde.uk or visit https://purljam.verde.uk and tag your work on social with #purljam. This response contains pattern instructions only; anything outside pattern scope is declined. Happy crocheting!

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