Milano Sweater (Top-down, Raglan yoke)

Modern, slightly oversized pullover in a reversible Milano rib. Worked top-down in the round with raglan increases, easy to customize for length and sleeve style. Includes full stitch counts and shaping for sizes XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL).

Sizes & Finished Measurements

• Finished bust: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) in / 81 (91, 102, 112, 122, 132) cm
• Recommended ease: 2–6 in / 5–9 cm positive ease depending on desired fit.
• Body length (high shoulder to hem): 22 (22.5, 23, 23.5, 24, 24) in / 56 (57, 58, 59.5, 61, 61) cm — adjustable.
• Sleeve length (underarm to wrist): 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5, 19, 19) in / 43 (44.5, 45.5, 47, 48, 48) cm.

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rnds = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on larger needles. Milano Rib gauge: 20 sts x 26 rnds = 4 in / 10 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge.

Yarn

Worsted / Aran weight yarn (sample uses a smooth worsted). Imperial & Metric totals per size (assuming 100 g = ~200 yds / 183 m):

• XS: 800 yd / 732 m — ~400 g / 14.1 oz
• S: 900 yd / 823 m — ~450 g / 15.9 oz
• M: 1000 yd / 914 m — ~500 g / 17.6 oz
• L: 1100 yd / 1006 m — ~550 g / 19.4 oz
• XL: 1200 yd / 1097 m — ~600 g / 21.2 oz
• 2XL: 1300 yd / 1189 m — ~650 g / 22.9 oz

Yarn suggestions: 100% wool or wool blends with good stitch definition. Substitute yardage if using lighter/heavier yarns and adjust needles.

Needles & Notions

• US 7 / UK (old) 7 / 4.5 mm circular needle, 16–32 in / 40–80 cm (for neck and small-circumference work)
• US 8 / UK (old) 6 / 5.0 mm circular needle, 24–32 in / 60–80 cm (main body & longer rounds)
• US 7 / UK (old) 7 / 4.5 mm set of DPNs or 16 in / 40 cm circular for small-circumference sleeves if preferred
• Stitch markers (4), tapestry needle, waste yarn for provisional cast-on (optional), stitch holder or scrap yarn.

Note on sizing of needle listings: each entry lists US, UK (old), and metric (mm).

Abbreviations

• k: knit
• p: purl
• k2tog: knit 2 together
• ssk: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• pm: place marker
• sm: slip marker
• rnd(s): round(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)
• yo: yarn over
• M1L / M1R: left / right-leaning make-one increase
• tbl: through back loop

Milano Rib (worked in the round)

Multiple of 2 sts

1. Rnd 1: *k1tbl, p1* repeat to end.
2. Rnd 2: *k1, p1tbl* repeat to end.

Repeat these two rounds for the reversible Milano texture. If you prefer a denser fabric, work both rounds on smaller needle.

Notes

• Sweater is worked top-down with raglan increases. Yoke is worked in stockinette with Milano Rib placed within raglan sections and body/sleeves joined underarm.
• Keep raglan increase rounds neat: add increases at the 4 raglan marker positions as M1R before marker and M1L after marker (or kfb if you prefer).
• You can lengthen or shorten body and sleeves by working more/less Milano Rib repeats before shaping or binding off.

Instructions

Cast On & Neckband

Using smaller circular (US 7 / 4.5 mm), provisional or regular long-tail cast on 80 (88, 96, 104, 112, 120) sts. Join to work in the round, place marker for beginning of rnd. Work 1.25 in / 3 cm of 1x1 rib (k1, p1) or work Milano Rib for a folded hem (optional). If working folded neckband, cast on fewer sts so band folds nicely. After neckband, switch to US 8 / 5.0 mm.

Yoke Setup

Place 4 markers to divide raglan and body: PM after 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17) sts for right front raglan, PM after 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17) sts for right sleeve, PM after 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34) sts for back raglan, PM after 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17) sts for left sleeve. Remaining sts are left front to complete the round. (Adjust placement if you used a provisional cast-on with different starting count.)

Yoke Raglan Increases

Work raglan increase rounds as follows: in each increase rnd, work to 1 st before each raglan marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L. Increase round then work 1–5 rnds even between increase rounds to taste for shallower/steeper yoke.

Increase rounds and total sts after raglan increases for each size (counts listed include all stitches):

• Work increases every 8th rnd (or every 6th rnd for faster yoke shaping) until you have the following total stitches: 200 (220, 240, 260, 280, 300) sts. Exact number varies slightly depending on your initial cast on; work until sleeve sts are the size you want or until total raglan rows match desired yoke depth of 8.5 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11) in / 22 (23, 24, 25, 26.5, 28) cm measured from cast-on edge.

At the point where you stop increases, slip sleeve stitches onto holders or scrap yarn: work across sts for right front to first raglan marker, slip next N sts (sleeve) to holder, remove marker, continue across back to next raglan marker, slip next N sts (sleeve) to holder, then continue across left front. Remaining sts are body.

Typical sleeve separation counts (approx): 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60) sts per sleeve. Body sts: remainder after removing sleeve sts.

Body (worked in Milano Rib)

Join body sts onto circular and begin Milano Rib pattern, placing a stitch marker at beg of round. Work Milano Rib in the round until body measures 14 (14.5, 15, 15.5, 16, 16) in / 36 (37, 38, 39.5, 40.5, 41) cm from underarm or desired length minus hem.

Optional hem: Work 2 in / 5 cm of k1,p1 rib on smaller needles and bind off loosely, or work Milano Rib all the way and bind off in pattern.

Sleeves

Transfer sleeve sts to shorter circular or DPNs. Join yarn and pick up 1 st at underarm if needed to prevent a hole. Work Milano Rib in the round for the sleeve, placing decreases for shaping if you want a tapered sleeve.

Sleeve shaping (optional): Decrease 1 st each end of round every 8th (6th) rnd until sleeve measures 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5, 19, 19) in / 43 (44.5, 45.5, 47, 48, 48) cm from underarm or desired length, or until sleeve has 32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) sts. Switch to smaller needles and work 2 in / 5 cm of k1,p1 rib. Bind off loosely in rib.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle.
2. Block gently to measurements: soak, press out excess water, lay flat and shape to finished measurements.
3. If you used a provisional cast-on for the neck, pick up live sts and work a neckband in k1,p1 for 1–2 in / 2.5–5 cm on smaller needles, bind off loosely.

Stitch Counts & Cheat Sheet (approx)

• After raglan separation (typical): Body sts: 80 (88, 96, 104, 112, 120). Sleeve sts on holders: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60) each.
• Sleeve finished sts after shaping: 32–42 sts depending on size and taper.

Customization Tips

• To size up or down, adjust initial cast-on in multiple of 2 for Milano Rib and keep raglan ratio consistent.
• Want a closer fit? Decrease finished bust by working fewer Milano Rib repeats before hem or choose smaller needle for body.
• For a cropped Milano sweater, shorten the body length before hem and use fewer Milano repeats.

Troubleshooting

• Milano Rib looks like a reversible broken rib. If your rib is skewing, check that you’re working k1tbl and p1tbl correctly on their rounds; knitting through the back loop rotates the stitch.
• If halves of front/back don’t match at raglan points, recount sts and markers; raglan increases must be symmetrical around each marker.

Resources & Support

Pattern and errata are hosted at https://purljam.verde.uk. For help email team@verde.uk. Share your makes with #purljam on social.

Happy knitting! — The PurlJam Design Team

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