Mosaic Crochet Flower Blanket

Bright, modern mosaic flowers made with two contrasting colors, assembled into a cozy throw. Worked flat in mosaic rows (slip-stitch colourwork) so each square reads like stained-glass florals. Includes full motif pattern, join-as-you-go assembly, border and finishing notes.

Summary

• Finished size: approx 48" x 60" (122 x 152 cm) as written (8 squares wide x 10 squares tall; see adjustments)
• Motif finished: approx 6" / 15 cm square (after blocking) — adjust hook for gauge
• Skill: intermediate (mosaic technique, color changes, JAYGO)

Materials

• Yarn (worsted weight, US 4) - two colours: Colour A (background) and Colour B (flower). Approx amounts (adjust if you change size): Colour A 1100 yd / 1006 m; Colour B 900 yd / 823 m. Total approx 2000 yd / 1830 m.
• Hook sizes (choose to match your gauge): Primary: US H/8 (5.0 mm) — UK (old) 6 — Metric 5.0 mm. Alternative if you crochet tightly: US I/9 (5.5 mm) — UK (old) 5 — Metric 5.5 mm.
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors, blocking pins/mat.

Gauge

12 dc x 8 rows = 4" (10 cm) in mosaic pattern using 5.0 mm hook. Each motif = approx 6" (15 cm) square (including turning chains). Always make a gauge swatch and adjust hook if needed.

Terminology & Conversions

Pattern is written in US crochet terms. UK (old) equivalents in parentheses where useful.

• US terms: ch = chain; sl st = slip stitch; sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; dc = double crochet; tr = treble crochet.
• UK equivalents: US sc = UK dc; US dc = UK tr; US hdc = UK htr. (Check your hook/label if you prefer UK wording.)

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side; WS = wrong side
• *...* = repeat instructions between asterisks

Notes

• This mosaic motif is worked flat in rows using two colours. You will carry only one yarn at a time; the other colour is worked with slipped stitches per mosaic technique.
• Each mosaic motif is a small panel worked row-by-row. Colour changes occur at the ends of rows; work the first stitch of the next row with the correct colour by pulling it through on the last yarn-over where indicated. See step-by-step notes below.
• When joining squares we use Join-As-You-Go (JAYGO) slip-stitch join so seams are tidy. An alternative is whipstitch or mattress stitch.

Mosaic Flower Motif (one square)

Make motif with two colours: A = background, B = flower/contrast. The square is worked over a multiple of 8 + 1 foundation chains to create a 6"/15 cm square with the given gauge.

1. Foundation: With Colour A, ch 25.
2. Row 1 (RS): dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as dc+ch2), *dc in next 7 chs, ch2, skip next 2 chs, repeat from * across ending with dc in last ch. Turn. (This creates vertical gaps that form the grid.)
3. Row 2 (WS) - Mosaic setup row: Ch 2 (does not count as stitch for mosaic pattern), turn. Working with Colour B: *sl st in first dc, sl st in next dc, dc in next dc; repeat from * across so that Colour B makes short vertical bars where flower petals will appear. Turn.
4. Row 3 (RS): Change to Colour A (carry B or break as preferred). Ch 2, turn. Work dc across in pattern: Wherever previous row had sl sts in B, you will work a dc over the same stitch in A; wherever previous row had dc in B, you will slip in A. This alternating slip/dc pattern is the core of mosaic: you always work dc in the colour that is intended to form vertical columns, and slip the short columns in the other colour. Turn.
5. Row 4 (WS) - Mosaic flower emergence: With Colour B, ch2, turn. Work slip and dc pattern shifted to form petal shapes (diagram below helps). Generally you will create clusters of dc (3-5 dc) in B with slips of A between them to make petal columns. Turn.
6. Rows 5–16: Continue alternating sets of two rows: one row worked mainly in A with B slipped columns, and one row worked mainly in B to build the flower shapes. Follow this motif chart (text):

Text chart for 16-row motif (rows numbered RS=odd rows):

Start with Row1 = foundation dc row (see above). Then:

1. Row2 (B): sl, sl, dc, sl, sl, dc, sl, sl, dc, sl, sl, dc (repeat as fits 24 sts)
2. Row3 (A): mirror Row2 (dc where Row2 had sl, sl where Row2 had dc)
3. Row4 (B): make small groups: sl, dc, dc, dc, sl, sl, dc, dc, dc, sl, sl, dc (this creates three-dc petals)
4. Row5 (A): invert Row4
5. Row6 (B): expand centre petals: sl, sl, dc, dc, dc, dc, sl, sl, dc, dc, dc, dc
6. Row7 (A): invert Row6
7. Row8 (B): narrow petals toward top: sl, dc, dc, dc, sl, sl, dc, dc, dc, sl, sl, dc
8. Row9 (A): invert Row8
9. Row10 (B): like Row4 to finish flower crown
10. Row11 (A): invert Row10
11. Row12 (B): one last set of verticals: sl, sl, dc, sl, sl, dc, sl, sl, dc, sl, sl, dc
12. Row13 (A): invert Row12
13. Row14 (B): repeat Row2
14. Row15 (A): invert Row14
15. Row16 (A - tidy row): With Colour A, dc across in pattern to match top edge; fasten off.

Notes on the chart: "sl" indicates slip stitch worked in the row's active colour over a stitch that will become a visible column of the opposite colour; "dc" indicates double crochet columns in the row's active colour. The pattern is deliberately modular: you can shift the position of groups of dc to make different flower placement. If you prefer a precise pixel chart, make a 24 x 16 square chart on graph paper marking B columns for petals and A for background, then translate per-row as above.

Finishing a Motif

1. After Row16, fasten off and weave in ends. Block each square gently to reach 6" / 15 cm, aligning edges squarely.
2. Make as many squares as needed (8 x 10 grid for the sample blanket = 80 squares). Keep colour orientation consistent so flowers read the same direction across the blanket.

Joining - Join-As-You-Go (JAYGO) Method)

1. Place two squares RS together (or WS together depending on how you prefer seam orientation). Hold motifs with final RS row facing you.
2. Attach Colour A at corner, ch1, sc in corner. Align stitches and sc through edge stitches of both motifs to join: *insert hook under next edge loop of motif already made, then under next edge loop of the new motif, sc through both loops* across the side. For a stronger join, use slip-stitch join: sl st through both loops instead of sc.
3. When joining rows of squares, join new square to the neighbor below along its side while working the final round of the new square: work the final edging round and when you reach joined edge, instead of working into stitch, sl st into corresponding stitch on attached square.
4. Repeat joining until all squares are assembled into the full blanket. We recommend joining horizontally first (make long strips) and then joining the strips vertically for ease.

Border (worked after assembly)

1. Round 1 (RS): With Colour A, join anywhere on edge. Ch1, evenly sc around blanket working 3 sc in each corner to keep edges flat. Join with sl st to first sc. (Work into side joins as needed.)
2. Round 2: With Colour B, ch2 (counts as hdc), hdc in each stitch around, 3 hdc in each corner; sl st to top of ch2. This creates a clean colour pop.
3. Round 3: With Colour A, sc in each stitch around; 5 sc in each corner to square-off. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Alternative Finishes

• Scalloped edge in Colour B: *skip next st, 5 dc in next st, skip next st, sc in next st* around.
• Larger border: add additional rounds of dc or hdc to reach desired wrap height.

Sizing Adjustments

• To make blanket larger/smaller: change number of motifs across/down. To alter motif size: change hook size or yarn weight. Remember to recalculate yardage.
• Estimated yarn per motif (worsted weight): approx 25 yd / 23 m of Colour B and 30 yd / 27 m of Colour A (this is approximate — make a swatch and measure).

Tips & Troubleshooting

• Keep tension consistent when slipping stitches — slipping too tightly will pull in rows. If slipped stitches look tight, use a hook 0.25–0.5 mm larger for slipped rows only.
• When changing colour, complete the last yarn-over of the final stitch with the new colour so the new colour is already in position to work the next stitch.
• Weave in ends as you go to reduce finishing time. Use small neat joins at colour changes to keep the back tidy.

Block & Care

• Gently wet-block squares and assemble after they are dry. Use a low-heat steam if needed and block to square measurements.
• Care: machine wash gentle cold in a mesh bag for synthetic blends; hand wash and dry flat for natural fibres. Always check yarn label instructions.

Support & Notes

If you need clarifications, errata, or a chart PDF, please visit https://purljam.verde.uk or contact team@verde.uk. Share your makes with the community at #purljam.

Happy stitching — mosaic crochet flowers make a graphic, modern blanket that looks complex but grows quickly once you get the two-row rhythm.

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