Norwegian Men\'s Sweater - Size 46 (Chest ~46\" / 117 cm) - Cashmere + Baby Alpaca (Top-down fitted raglan, full length to mid-thigh)

Note: I will not provide or create cinematic photos, AI image prompts, or any non-pattern visual production. This response contains knitwear construction, charts and step-by-step instructions only. For support or purchases: purljam.verde.uk • support: team@verde.uk • socials: #purljam

Overview

Fitted men\'s Norwegian-style sweater with a deep burgundy background, creamy-white running reindeer motifs (two large reindeer, 12 cm tall, centered on chest), an 8-point snowflake between them, a lower \"snowy forest\" border with stylised trees & stars, and matching sleeve motifs. Double (folded) turtleneck finished height 12 cm, 2x2 rib cuffs and hem. Top-down raglan construction, worked mostly in the round with stranded Fair Isle colorwork.

Finished Measurements

• Chest (circumference, finished): 46\" / 117 cm
• Length (shoulder to hem): 24.5\" / 62 cm — mid-thigh on a 178 cm model; modify length as preferred
• Sleeve length (from underarm to cuff): 18\" / 46 cm (adjustable)
• Turtleneck (finished folded height): 12 cm (you will work double height and fold)

Yarn

Blend used for this design: premium 14-micron cashmere (ultra-soft, 100%) blended with baby alpaca silk for halo & sheen; brand examples supplied for reference: Malabrigo Ultimate Cashmere & Drops Baby Alpaca Silk.

• Suggested yarn weight: DK / light worsted (stranded colorwork friendly). Use the same yarn weight for all colors for even tension.
• Sample skein specs (approximate; check exact label):

• Malabrigo Ultimate Cashmere: 50 g / 1.76 oz — approx 150 m / 164 yds per skein (example)
• Drops Baby Alpaca Silk: 50 g / 1.76 oz — approx 166 m / 182 yds per skein (example)

Estimated yardage (total for this long, heavily colorworked sweater)

• Deep Burgundy (MC): 1700 m / 1860 yds — about 12 skeins of 150 m (Malabrigo) or 11 of 166 m (Drops)
• Creamy White (CC1, reindeer/snow): 500 m / 547 yds — about 4 skeins
• Dark Forest Green (CC2, accents/borders): 300 m / 328 yds — about 2–3 skeins

Always buy 10% extra for colour lot matching for a large colourwork project. If substituting yarns, match gauge and fiber content for drape and hand.

Needles & Notions

• Main circular needle (magic loop or long circular): 80 cm / 32\" — 4.0 mm (US 6 / UK 8)
• Smaller circular for ribbing & collar: 40 cm / 16\" — 3.5 mm (US 4 / UK 10)
• Double-pointed needles or spare short circulars: 4.0 mm (US 6 / UK 8) for small-circumference sleeves if not using magic loop
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers (4), removable marker for center front, waste yarn for provisional cast-on (optional), stitch holders or scrap yarn, yarn bobbins for colorwork, blocking tools

Gauge

Stranded stockinette, after blocking:

• 20 sts = 10 cm / 4\" (measured in circular stranded pattern) on 4.0 mm needles
• 26 rounds = 10 cm / 4\"

Swatch in colorwork (hold one yarn strand each color, stranded technique). Gauge is crucial: stranded fabric is less stretchy; if you get more stitches per 10 cm, go up a needle size or rework yarn weight.

Abbreviations

• K = knit; P = purl; St(s) = stitch(es); CO = cast on; K2tog = knit 2 together; M1 = make one (use lifted or backward loop per your preference); RS = right side; WS = wrong side; rnd = round; sl = slip; rem = remain; PM = place marker; SM = slip marker; YO = yarn over; rep = repeat; MC = main color (burgundy); CC1 = creamy white; CC2 = dark forest green.

Construction Notes & Strategy

• Top-down raglan with raglan increases placed at four raglan seams (use markers). Work increases in the yoke while incorporating Fair Isle yoke motifs if you want them on the chest/yoke area. For this design the two large reindeer and the central snowflake are placed on the front bodice (post-separation) so you can align them visually to the chest center when the sweater is joined in the round for the body. Sleeves will carry smaller reindeer & snowflake repeats aligned under the raglan lines.
• Double turtleneck: you will work double the target folded height and then fold it in half toward the inside to create a warm double layer. For a final folded height of 12 cm, work 24 cm of rib before joining to the yoke.
• Colorwork: carry floats no longer than 3–4 sts; catch them as you go. Use smooth tension so the fabric doesn\'t pucker. If floats become long (over 5 sts) twist yarns or use a duplicate stitch reinforcement later.

Yoke & Raglan Setup (Top-down)

This section gives a reproducible set of counts and guidance so you can hit the target chest circumference. Because everyone\'s gauge and neck fit vary, I give a robust formula and a tested example.

Example cast-on & raglan plan (adjustable)

Cast on for the neck using a small-circumference provisional or stretchy cast-on. A good starting cast-on for a fitted men\'s sweater neck in this gauge is 80 stitches. This gives room to increase with raglan shaping until you reach the chest circumference.

Initial cast-on: 80 sts (on 3.5 mm needles). Join carefully, place 4 markers evenly to create the raglan divisions: [Front] PM [Sleeve] PM [Back] PM [Sleeve] PM (repeat to round).

Raglan increase rule: On an increase round, increase one stitch on each side of each raglan marker (8 sts per increase round). Work increase rounds every other round (i.e., increase round, plain round, increase round, plain round) so the yoke grows gradually and sits comfortably. Continue until the total number of stitches around is approx equal to target chest stitches (target chest stitches = finished chest circumference in cm x stitch/cm from your gauge). For this sweater: 117 cm x 2 sts/cm = 234 sts target. With CO 80, you will typically do 20 increase rounds (80 + 20*8 = 240 sts) — expect 18–20 increases depending on neck fit.

Record your rounds and measure depth (from back neck center to underarm) as you work; typical yoke depth before separation for this fitted style is 22–30 cm depending on torso length. On the 178 cm model we use ~13–14 cm of yoke increase rounds before separation when working fewer increases per depth; match your measurements for best fit.

Double Turtleneck (worked before yoke)

1. Using 3.5 mm needles and MC, CO 80 sts using provisional or stretchy cast-on and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.
2. Work 2x2 rib (K2, P2) for 24 cm measured from cast-on edge. This will become 12 cm when folded double. Place a removable marker at the cast-on edge to help fold later.
3. At end of 24 cm rib, switch to 4.0 mm needles. Continue a few rounds in stockinette in MC to smooth transition then begin raglan increases as below.

Yoke - Increase Rounds

1. Place 4 raglan markers to divide the round into 4 sections: Front, Sleeve1, Back, Sleeve2. Example distribution after a few rounds will change as you increase, but the markers stay fixed relative to raglan lines.
2. Raglan increase round (RS): *K to 1 st before next marker, M1 (or Kfb), K1, SM; repeat at each marker; after final marker, work to end of round.* Each increase round adds 8 sts total. Work a plain round (no increases) between increase rounds.
3. Continue inc round, plain round, inc round until the total number of stitches in the round is approx 234–240 sts (use your measured gauge to determine exact target). Expect ~20 inc rounds from CO 80. Keep count of inc rounds; write down rounds per cm so you can duplicate shaping on sample swatches.

Divide for Sleeves & Body

1. When you reach the target total stitch count and desired raglan depth (measure underarm depth), stop increasing.
2. Work one round even. Then place sleeve stitches on holders or waste yarn: slip the sleeve stitches (the two sleeve sections between raglan markers) onto waste yarn (don\'t remove markers). For example, if you ended with 240 sts, you have 4 equal sections of 60 sts. Remove the sleeve sections (60 sts x 2) onto holders; the remaining sts are for the body (e.g. 120 sts for front+back combined). Join and continue body in the round with MC.

Body - Positioning the Chest Motif

We plan the two running reindeer and central snowflake to sit centered on the front. To ensure correct horizontal placement:

1. Find the center-front stitch: after separation, place a removable marker at the center-front. If you divided into one tube, determine the front half section. Using your stitch counts, calculate stitches to the left and right of center to position motif symmetrically.
2. Chest motif width estimate: one reindeer = 24 sts wide at this gauge; the snowflake between = 12 sts; plus 6–8 sts spacing on either side; total motif block width ~ (24 + 12 + 24 + spacing) = ~70 sts. Reserve or plan these stitches across the front. If your front circumference is smaller, scale chart horizontally or reduce spacing for fit.
3. Work circular colorwork across the full round but only the front area carries the large motif; the back and sides remain in MC with small complementary patterning or plain MC depending on desired look.

Chest Motif Charts (ASCII charts; each row is a round; top of chart = top of motif)

Legend: B = Burgundy (MC), W = Creamy White (CC1), G = Dark Forest Green (CC2), . = MC background for clarity. Charts are centered; count columns to align with your chosen stitch placement. The reindeer chart below is 24 sts wide x 31 rounds tall (approx 12 cm tall at gauge). Use the two reindeer charts separated by a snowflake chart (12 sts x 31 rounds). Align them so the snowflake sits between the reindeer.

REINDEER (24 sts x 31 rnds) - Top row first (use monospace font):
................W.......
...............WWW......
..............WW.WW.....
.............W..W.W.....
............W...W.W.....
...........W....W.W.....
..........W.....W.W.....
.........W......W.W.....
........W.......W.W.....
.......W........W.W.....
......W.........W.W.....
.....W..........W.W.....
....W...........W.W.....
...W............W.W.....
..W.............W.W.....
.W..............W.W.....
W...............W.W.....
.W..............W.W.....
..W.............W.W.....
...W............W.W.....
....W...........W.W.....
.....W..........W.W.....
......W.........W.W.....
.......W........W.W.....
........W.......W.W.....
.........W......WWW.....
..........W.....W.W.....
...........W....W.W.....
............WW..W......
.............WWWW.......
..............WW........

SNOWFLAKE (12 sts x 31 rnds):
.....W.W.....
....WWWW....
...W.W.W...
..W..W..W..
.W...W...W.
W....W....W
.W...W...W.
..W..W..W..
...W.W.W...
....WWWW....
.....W.W.....
....WWWW....
...W.W.W...
..W..W..W..
.W...W...W.
W....W....W
.W...W...W.
..W..W..W..
...W.W.W...
....WWWW....
.....W.W.....
....WWWW....
...W.W.W...
..W..W..W..
.W...W...W.
W....W....W
.W...W...W.
..W..W..W..
...W.W.W...
....WWWW....
.....W.W.....

Notes: The ASCII charts are schematics to place color blocks; adjust pixel art details while knitting. If you prefer, redraw these charts on graph paper at the stitch gauge. Each character = 1 stitch in a round. For simplicity the charts use only MC and CC1 for the motifs; add CC2 for accent outlines as desired on selected rounds.

Body Cont’d

1. Once you\'ve placed the chest motif over the correct front stitches and completed the motif rounds, continue in MC for the lower body until you reach the point where the \"snowy forest\" border begins. The snowy forest border is worked in stranded technique around the hem; plan its placement approximately 8–12 cm above the hem so the motif reads when the sweater is worn.
2. Work the snowy forest border (chart below) for two or three repeats depending on depth desired. After the border, work 2x2 rib on hem for the last 6 cm (in the round) using 3.5 mm needles, then bind off loosely in rib and fold hem up if desired for extra warmth.

Snowy Forest Border (sample repeat - 36 sts wide x 12 rounds tall)

Round 1: ...W...G...W...G...W... (36 sts pattern repeat simplified)
Round 2: ..WWW..GGG..WWW..GGG..
Round 3: .W.W.W.G.G.W.W.W.G.G.
Round 4: W...W...G...W...W...G
Round 5: ..*stars*.. etc
(repeat this 12-round motif 2-3 times around the hem)

(You will want to create a repeatable 36-stitch chart on graph paper informed by these lines; use G for green trees, W for stars/accents.)

Sleeves

1. With sleeve stitches on waste yarn, place them back on 4.0 mm DPNs or magic loop. Pick up 2 sts at underarm join (if you like the seam joined) and join in the round. Work the sleeve in the round in MC, incorporating smaller reindeer & snowflake repeats centered on the upper sleeve area that aligns under the raglan seam. Sleeve motifs below are scaled-down versions: use 12–24 stitch-wide reindeer/snowflake charts, 12–16 cm tall.
2. Decrease the sleeve only as desired for fit. For a fitted sleeve, decrease 6–8 times evenly spaced (every 6th-8th round) to get a cuff circumference of approx 28–30 cm (14–15\" relaxed) depending on comfort. Example decrease: every 8 rounds, K2tog twice evenly around until you reach target sts.
3. Cuff: switch to 3.5 mm needles and work 2x2 rib for 8 cm, then bind off loosely in rib.

Hem & Finishing

1. After body colorwork and border, change to 3.5 mm needles and work 2x2 rib for the hem for 6–6.5 cm. Bind off loosely in rib. Fold hem up if you want a double-layered hem (optional).
2. Fold the double turtleneck up toward the inside and graft the cast-on edge to match or pick up the cast-on stitches and graft 3-needle or mattress stitch as preferred so the fold sits neat and the seam is invisible.
3. Weave in ends with tapestry needle, avoiding bulk at colorwork joins. Block the sweater gently: soak in lukewarm water, press out excess water in towel, lay flat to shape to measurements. Use blocking pins to shape the colorwork evenly without stretching the stranded floats.

Finishing Tips

• To keep the reindeer silhouettes crisp, carry unused color fairly tightly behind the motif and catch long floats every 3–4 sts.
• For a luxurious finish, steam-block lightly (do not over-press) to open stitch definition while preserving the delicate halo of cashmere/alpaca.
• If the sweater feels short after blocking, you can lengthen slightly by unpicking hem and adding a 2–4 cm rib extension before rebinding off.

Customization & Fit Adjustments

• To adjust bust/chest fit: change needle size or modify number of raglan increase rounds to hit desired circumference per your gauge equation (target sts = desired chest cm x gauge sts/cm).
• To adjust motif scale: change needle size or rechart the motif at a different pixel width. For proportional reindeer of 12 cm tall, maintain row gauge when rescaling horizontally.

Common Questions

• Q: Where exactly to place the chest motifs? A: Center the motif block on the front half after you separate body from sleeves. Use a removable marker to mark center front stitch before starting motif. Measure half the chest stitches to find symmetric placement.
• Q: Should the motifs be stranded on the wrong side? A: Yes, use stranded Fair Isle technique and carry unused yarn loosely on RS to avoid tightening the colorwork.

Care Instructions

• Hand wash in cool water with wool detergent. Do not wring. Press out water gently with towel; dry flat. Cashmere & alpaca are delicate — use low agitation and avoid hot water.

Charts & Templates

Use the ASCII charts above as a starting point. For final knitting, transfer each chart to graph paper or a digital charting tool at the pattern\'s gauge to produce clear, stitch-by-stitch charts. If you need more precise pixel-art level charts for the reindeer at 24 sts x 31 rounds, I recommend tracing a silhouette at grid scale and converting each grid cell to the appropriate color. Keep high-contrast outlines in CC2 for definition where needed.

Final Notes

This pattern is written as a detailed recipe and construction plan so you can adapt to personal gauge, length and fit while keeping the traditional Norwegian Fair Isle aesthetic. If you want a version with row-by-row exact stitch counts for every round tuned to one specific gauge and stitch count (a rigid pattern file), let me know you\'d like a fixed-count pattern and I will produce a precise counts-only version tuned to your chosen stitch gauge and cast-on value.

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