Note: I can’t provide the original copyrighted "Olga" pattern by PetiteKnit, but below is an original, highly detailed Olga‐inspired pullover designed for Knitting for Olive Heavy Merino in your requested colours (Bordeaux and Linen). Use this as a standalone pattern; it is written in standard US terms and includes UK (old) + metric needle sizes and yarn requirements in both Imperial and Metric.

Olga‐Inspired Heavy Merino Sweater (Bordeaux & Linen)

Overview

Top‐down raglan, relaxed/boxy fit with a folded rib collar and stockinette body. Two-colour option: main colour Bordeaux with Linen contrast for collar, hem & cuffs. You may invert the colours if you prefer Linen main with Bordeaux contrast—see yarn quantities for both options.

Sizes (finished chest circumference)

• XS: ~34 in / 86 cm
• S: ~38 in / 97 cm
• M: ~42 in / 107 cm
• L: ~46 in / 117 cm
• XL: ~50 in / 127 cm
• XXL: ~54 in / 137 cm

Materials

• Yarn: Knitting for Olive Heavy Merino (Heavy/Worsted weight suggested). Colours: Bordeaux (MC) and Linen (CC). Quantities below assume MC = Bordeaux, CC = Linen (if you want Linen main and Bordeaux contrast, swap amounts).
• Yarn totals (approx, Imperial & Metric):
  • XS — Total: 900 yds / 823 m (approx 450 g). MC (Bordeaux): 770 yds / 704 m (~385 g / 13.6 oz). CC (Linen): 130 yds / 119 m (~70 g / 2.5 oz).
  • S — Total: 1000 yds / 914 m (approx 500 g). MC: 850 yds / 777 m (~425 g / 15.0 oz). CC: 150 yds / 137 m (~75 g / 2.6 oz).
  • M — Total: 1100 yds / 1006 m (approx 550 g). MC: 940 yds / 860 m (~470 g / 16.6 oz). CC: 160 yds / 146 m (~80 g / 2.8 oz).
  • L — Total: 1200 yds / 1097 m (approx 600 g). MC: 1020 yds / 933 m (~510 g / 18.0 oz). CC: 180 yds / 165 m (~90 g / 3.2 oz).
  • XL — Total: 1350 yds / 1235 m (approx 675 g). MC: 1150 yds / 1052 m (~575 g / 20.3 oz). CC: 200 yds / 183 m (~100 g / 3.5 oz).
  • XXL — Total: 1500 yds / 1372 m (approx 750 g). MC: 1280 yds / 1172 m (~640 g / 22.6 oz). CC: 220 yds / 201 m (~110 g / 3.9 oz).
• Needles:
  • Main circular: US 8 — 5.0 mm — UK (old) size 6 (use 16”/40 cm for collar if working flat then join, and 24”/60–66 cm or longer 32”/80 cm for body in the round)
  • Smaller circular for ribbing (optional for firmer collar/hem): US 7 — 4.5 mm — UK (old) size 7
  • Double‐point needles or long circular for small circumferences (magic loop) in same sizes.
• Notions: stitch markers (4), waste yarn for provisional cast‐on (optional), stitch holders or scrap yarn, tapestry needle, measuring tape, scrap hook or crochet hook for picking up underarm stitches.

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on US 8 (5.0 mm). Always swatch in the round if you will knit body sleeves in the round. Adjust needle size to match gauge.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• Kfb = knit into front and back of stitch (increase)
• M1R / M1L = make 1 right/left (lifted increase) - optional alternative to Kfb
• Pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side, WS = wrong side

Construction Notes

This is a top‐down raglan worked in the round to the underarms, then sleeves are set aside and body is worked in the round. Raglan increases are worked every right‐side round (8 stitches total per increase round). You will begin with a provisional/picot or regular cast‐on for the collar, work collar, join, then work raglan increases to build yoke. The pattern provides exact counts for the sizes and recommended measuring points.

Starting Numbers (neck & yoke targets)

Begin: CO 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) sts for the neck. Increase until you reach a total of 152 (168, 184, 200, 216, 232) sts around (these totals are divisible by 8 for even raglan increases). That means the number of increase rounds (8 sts added each increase round) will be 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16) increase rounds respectively.

Gauge math explanation (so you can adapt)

If you prefer a different finished circumference, multiply your desired finished chest inches by your stitch gauge (st/in). Example: desired 40 in x 4.5 st/in = 180 sts around. Make sure your chosen total is divisible by 8 if you follow this raglan increase scheme exactly; otherwise adjust with a few extra stitches in the collar or hem to balance.

Pattern (Top‐Down Raglan)

1) Collar (folded rib)

1. Using smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm) or same size for a softer collar, CO 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) sts using provisional or regular cast‐on. Join carefully, being sure not to twist.
2. Work 1x1 rib (K1,P1) or 2x2 rib (K2,P2) in the round for 2.5 in / 6.5 cm (or 3.5 in / 9 cm if you want a taller folded collar). Change to main needle size (US 8 / 5.0 mm) if you used smaller needles.
3. If you used provisional CO, undo and pick up provisional stitches now and join as set up for raglan; otherwise continue.

2) Yoke (raglan increases)

Place 4 markers to denote raglan lines: after the neckline stitches divide into 4 raglan sections. We recommend arranging as: Front (between two markers), Raglan line (marker), Sleeve, Raglan line, Back, Raglan line, Sleeve, Raglan line, return to front.

1. Set up round: Knit across first section, pm, knit across sleeve 1, pm, knit across back, pm, knit across sleeve 2, pm. The markers mark the raglan lines at the edges of the four sections.
2. Increase round (RS): *K to 1 st before marker, Kfb (increase), sm, Kfb (increase) * repeat at each raglan marker. This adds 2 sts per marker = 8 sts per increase round. Work every RS round as an increase round or every other round if you prefer a slower increase. (This pattern assumes increase every other round but you can increase every RS round if you want a faster slope—if you change frequency, measure more often.)
3. Work the increase round as specified until you have increased 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16) times total (resulting in 152 (168, 184, 200, 216, 232) sts). Keep yoke length measured from back of neck; these increase counts should give a yoke depth of approximately 3.5–4.5 in / 9–11 cm depending on size. Try on as you work: the yoke is done when the underarm point (marker) sits where you want the sleeve to begin.

3) Divide for body and sleeves

After the final increase round, arrange stitches as quarters. Each sleeve section will be total/4 = 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58) sts. Slip the sleeve stitches onto holders or waste yarn. Join the remaining stitches (front + back) in the round for the body. You will no longer increase.

4) Body

1. Body stitch count after removing sleeves: 76 (84, 92, 100, 108, 116) sts. Join and place a marker for beginning of round.
2. Work in stockinette (knit every round) until body measures 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24) in / 48 (51, 53, 56, 58, 61) cm from underarm, or desired length to hem.
3. Hem: Work 1.5 in / 4 cm of ribbing (K1,P1 or K2,P2) on smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm) and bind off loosely in rib.

5) Sleeves

1. Return sleeve sts from holder to needles. Each sleeve begins with 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58) sts around. You may pick up 0–6 underarm stitches to avoid a hole (pick up evenly across the underarm seam; if you pick up extra sts, distribute them evenly). Target sleeve circumference at upper arm: approx 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17) in / 30 (33, 36, 38, 41, 43) cm depending on size and ease; adjust by adding or removing underarm picked up sts.
2. Sleeve shaping: If you want a fitted sleeve, decrease 0–6 sts evenly over the first 1.5–2 in / 4–5 cm. Otherwise keep even. Work in the round until sleeve measures 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5, 19, 19.5) in / 43 (44, 46, 47, 48, 49.5) cm from underarm to desired cuff location (or shorter for a 3/4 sleeve: 12–14 in / 30–36 cm).
3. Cuff: Switch to smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm). Work 1.5 in / 4 cm of ribbing (K1,P1 or K2,P2). Bind off loosely in rib.

6) Finishing

• Weave in ends. Block lightly to measurements: steam or wet block to reach specified finished length and chest circumference, using gentle stretching when wet to open stitches slightly if needed. Heavy Merino will relax; don’t overblock.
• Sew up any small gaps at underarm if necessary using mattress stitch.
• Fold collar at center and mattress stitch the inside fold down if you want a stable folded collar; alternatively leave it unfolded for a softer mock‐neck look.

Colour placement suggestions

• Version A (classic): MC = Bordeaux for body and sleeves; CC = Linen for collar, sleeve cuffs and hem (approx 85% MC, 15% CC by yardage).
• Version B (inverse): MC = Linen for body; CC = Bordeaux for collar/cuffs/hem. You may carry CC for two‐row stripes near hem or cuffs for a subtle contrast.

Tips & Fitting

• Try the sweater on as you work the yoke: raglan is very fit‐sensitive. Work fewer increase rounds for shallower yokes or more if you need deeper yoke/shoulder coverage.
• If you prefer a looser sweater, go up one size or increase needle size by 1‐2 mm; if you want more fitted, go down a size or needle.
• When picking up underarm stitches, place the new picked‐up sts slightly closer to sleeve sts than body sts to reduce hole size; use a small crochet hook to make a tidy chain and ease.

Alterations & Customizing

To make the sweater longer or shorter, change the body and sleeve lengths. To change ease, alter the target finished chest circumference using the gauge math under "Gauge math explanation." For a boxier fit increase final desired finished circumference by 2–6 in / 5–15 cm.

Support & Attribution

This is an original, Olga‐inspired design created for your requested yarn colours. For help with fitting, yarn substitutions or clarification email: team@verde.uk. Visit our website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Share finished makes or questions on socials with #purljam.

Happy knitting — enjoy your Bordeaux & Linen Heavy Merino sweater!

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