Oversized Hooded Hat (snood-style) — Flat Knit

An easy-to-wear knit-flat hat with a deep, voluminous hood that sits like a snood. Worked flat from a provisional cast-on so the hood is picked up and worked seamlessly. Sizes: S (M, L, XL). Finished head circumference: 19.5 (21.5, 23, 25) in / 50 (55, 58, 63) cm. Hood depth shown; adjust to taste.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted/aran weight (category 4). Suggested: 200 yds/100 g (183 m/100 g). Total yardage: S 220 yds (200 m) ~125 g; M 260 yds (238 m) ~150 g; L 320 ds (292 m) ~190 g; XL 380 ds (347 m) ~225 g.
Needles (knit flat): Main: US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm. Rib: US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm. You can also use straight needles or a long circular for working flat.
Optional crochet hook for provisional cast-on: US G/6 4.0 mm.
Tapestry needle, stitch marker, scrap yarn for provisional CO, scissors.

Gauge

18 sts × 24 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on US 8 (5.0 mm). Check gauge and change needle size if needed.

Abbreviations

K: knit
P: purl
K2tog: knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
SSK: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
CO: cast on
BO: bind off
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
St(s): stitch(es)
Prov CO: provisional cast-on (use waste yarn)

Notes

Pattern is worked flat. Begin with a provisional cast-on so you can later pick up live stitches for the hood and attach seamlessly.
Multiple stitch counts are given as S (M, L, XL). Where a single number is shown, it applies to all sizes.
Brim uses a slightly smaller needle for a neater rib.

Stitch counts (cast-on)

Cast on these amounts using a provisional CO with scrap yarn: S 88, M 96, L 104, XL 112 (these are multiples of 4 for 2x2 rib).

Brim

With smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm), using your live provisional stitches, pick up the live stitches onto needles. Work 2x2 rib (K2, P2) across.
Work rib for 3 in / 7.5 cm (or 2.5 –3 in depending on preference). End on WS.

Body (base/head)

Switch to main needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm). Begin Stockinette stitch in flat pieces: Row 1 (RS): K across. Row 2 (WS): P across. Continue in Stockinette until the piece measures from cast-on edge to start of crown decreases: S 8 in / 20 cm (48 rows), M 9 in / 23 cm (54 rows), L 10 in / 25 cm (60 rows), XL 11 in / 28 cm (66 rows). Adjust if you want a deeper or shallower fit.

Crown shaping (flat decreases)

We shape the crown with paired decreases near the edges so the seam sits at center back when seamed.

Decrease row (RS): K2, K2tog, knit to last 4 sts, SSK, K2. (Two decreases per decrease row.)
WS: Purl all stitches.
Repeat these two rows every 6th row (i.e., perform decrease rows separated by 5 plain rows) until you have approximately double the target final top stitches: S ~32 sts, M ~36 sts, L ~40 sts, XL ~44 sts. (Exact row counts will vary with gauge; stop when the fabric begins to cup.)
Then increase decrease frequency: repeat decrease row every 4th row until you reach S 20, M 22, L 24, XL 26 sts.
Switch to decrease row every RS row until you have 12 (12, 12, 12) sts remaining.
Next RS row: K2tog across to end (for even number). You will have 6 (6, 6, 6) stitches left; cut yarn leaving a 10–15 in / 25–38 cm tail and thread through remaining sts, pull to close. Secure and weave in tail on WS.

Seam crown

Fold the piece so the two edges with decreases meet with RS facing; mattress stitch or your preferred invisible seam to close the crown. Weave in all ends.

Prepare and work the hood (seamless pick-up)

Unpick the provisional cast-on waste yarn to expose the live cast-on stitches along the lower edge (the brim edge). Carefully place those live stitches onto your main needles; if any dropped, pick them up with a crochet hook or needle.
The number of live stitches equals your original cast-on (88/96/104/112). These stitches form the front/neck edge of the hood. You will now work a large rectangular panel that becomes the hood drape. Decide hood depth (measured from pick-up edge to back seam): S 16 in / 40 cm, M 18 in / 45 cm, L 20 in / 50 cm, XL 22 in / 55 cm. Adjust for more or less slouch.
Work in Stockinette flat (Row 1 RS: K across; Row 2 WS: P across) until the panel reaches the chosen hood depth. Optional: for a neat face edge, work the first 1 in / 2 cm in 1x1 rib or garter stitch before continuing stockinette.
Bind off loosely on a WS row; leave a tail for seaming.
Fold the hood rectangle lengthwise (short edge to short edge) so the cast-on edge and bind-off edge align, RS facing inside, and seam short edge with mattress stitch to make a tube. Turn right side out. The open long edge will already be attached around the brim by virtue of picking up live stitches: if you prefer the hood to be anchored only at the back, pick up only across the back half when releasing the provisional cast-on (see "Variation: Back-anchored hood").

Finishing

Block gently to shape: steam or wet-block to desired drape; pin so brim sits flat and hood drapes evenly.
Weave in ends; trim remaining tails. Optionally attach an internal small strip of fabric near the brow to stabilize weight and prevent stretching.

Variation: Back-anchored hood (less face framing)

If you want the hood to sit more like a snood behind the head and not frame the face tightly, when you unpick the provisional CO pick up only the back half of the live stitches (approx half the cast-on total). Work the hood rectangle from that pick-up; seam and you will have a hood that attaches along the back/top only, giving a deep drape.

Customization & tips

To make a chunkier version, use bulkier yarn and larger needles; keep gauge math in mind and test before beginning.
Add short-row shaping at the center back of the hood (hold-back, wrap-and-turn or German short rows) for a more rounded crown in the hood. Work short rows in the last 4–8 inches to add volume.
For a decorative finish, work the brim in 1x1 rib or seed stitch instead of 2x2.

Care

Follow yarn label instructions. Generally, hand-wash and lay flat to dry for best shape retention, or machine-wash gentle in a mesh bag if yarn permits.

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