Pedro Picapiedras — Amigurumi Crochet Pattern (US terms)

Designed for crocheters who want a small, sturdy toy inspired by a stone‑age hero. This pattern is for an approximately 9.5"/24 cm tall amigurumi when worked with recommended materials. Uses basic amigurumi construction: magic ring, sc, inc, dec, joins and simple embroidery.

Skill level

Intermediate: comfortable with working in continuous rounds, invisible decreases, shaping, and simple assembly/sewing.

Finished size

About 9.5"/24 cm tall from top of head to soles when using the recommended yarn/hook and stuffing. Size will vary with yarn weight and hook choice.

Gauge

Not critical for amigurumi, but expected fabric density: 22 sc x 24 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm (4" x 4") using 3.5 mm hook and worsted weight yarn.

Materials

Yarn (worsted/aran weight; US #4, UK Aran): Main/flesh — 50 g (1.75 oz) / ~110 yd (100 m); Tunic (orange/brown) — 30 g (1.05 oz) / ~65 yd (60 m); Hair (black) — 10 g (0.35 oz) / ~22 yd (20 m); Accent/other colors small scraps. Metric & Imperial amounts are approximate and depend on yarn brand.
Hook/Needles (choose for amigurumi tight fabric): Crochet hook: US E‑4 (3.5 mm) / UK approx. 9 / Metric 3.5 mm. Alternative: US G‑6 (4.0 mm) / Metric 4.0 mm for slightly larger, softer fabric. Knitting needles (optional for knitters making body pieces): US 3 (3.25 mm) / UK 10 / Metric 3.25 mm — note: knitting pattern is not included; these sizes given for conversion.
Notions: tapestry needle, stitch marker, small sharp scissors, polyester fiberfill, optional: 12 mm safety eyes (or embroider eyes), small amount of black embroidery floss for mouth/eyebrows, pins for assembly, fabric glue (optional).
Sewing thread matching yarn for securing safety eyes if used. Optional: 10–15 g (0.35–0.5 oz) plastic pellets for base weighting (put in a small fabric pouch inside the lower body only).

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch — chain
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
sl st — slip stitch
st(s) — stitch(es)
inc — 2 sc in same st (increase)
dec — invisible decrease (sc2tog or invisible sc decrease)
MR — magic ring
*...* — repeat instructions between asterisks
R — round

Notes

Work in continuous rounds (spiral) unless otherwise stated. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
Stuff firmly but evenly while shaping to avoid lumps. Add weight to legs/foot area for stability if desired.
When changing colors for clothing, carry yarn neatly or fasten off and sew ends in securely.
For safety: if the toy is for a child under 3 years, embroider eyes and mouth instead of using safety eyes; secure all small parts firmly.

Body & Head (worked top-down as one piece)

Use flesh color unless otherwise noted.

Head

R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3: *sc, inc* x6 (18)
R4: *2 sc, inc* x6 (24)
R5: *3 sc, inc* x6 (30)
R6: *4 sc, inc* x6 (36)
R7: *5 sc, inc* x6 (42)
R8–R14: sc around (42) — 7 rounds
Place safety eyes between R10 and R11 about 8–9 sts apart (adjust spacing for expression). Insert nose later as small oval piece or embroider.

Neck

R15: *6 sc, dec* x6 (36)
R16: *5 sc, dec* x6 (30)
R17: *4 sc, dec* x6 (24)
R18: sc around (24)

Upper body / shoulders

R19: *3 sc, inc* x6 (30)
R20: sc around (30)
R21: *4 sc, inc* x6 (36)
R22–R26: sc around (36) — 5 rounds

Lower body / waist to hips (start color change to tunic bottom at R27)

R27 (change to tunic color): sc around (36)
R28–R32: sc around (36) — 5 rounds
R33: *5 sc, dec* x6 (30)
R34: *4 sc, dec* x6 (24)

Legs (make 2, worked in tunic color for top then switch to flesh for feet)

Make two identical legs — join to lower body by sewing or crocheting onto the opening.
Each leg:
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3: *sc, inc* x6 (18)
R4–R8: sc around (18) — 5 rounds (these are thigh/tunic area; add an extra round if you want longer legs)
Change to flesh color for foot:
R9–R11: sc around (18)
R12: *2 sc, dec* x4 (14)
R13: *sc, dec* x4 (10)
R14–R15: sc around (10)
Stuff foot firmly, close with decs and finish off leaving a long tail to sew. Insert pellet pouch before fully closing if using pellets.

Arms (make 2)

Use flesh color for hands, change to tunic color for sleeves or vice versa to match look.
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3–R6: sc around (12) — 4 rounds (hand)
Stuff lightly.
R7: change to tunic color, sc around (12)
R8–R13: sc around (12) — 6 rounds (arm length; adjust for pose)
Flatten top and sew to sides of body at shoulder level, position slightly forward. Leave a small gap for movement if you want posable arms.

Feet (if made separately for more detail)

Optional flat-foot shape if you prefer wider base:
With flesh color:
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3: *sc, inc* x6 (18)
R4: sc around (18)
Fold and sew to form a sole; stuff lightly and attach to bottom of leg or body.

Tunic collar / sash (worked in tunic color)

Make a small strip to create the stone‑age tunic look.
Ch 26 (or enough to wrap around upper chest). Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Repeat to desired width (2–3 rows). Attach around neck opening and sew in place. For the jagged stone hem, cut small V shapes into the bottom edge of the tunic strip before attaching, or work dc clusters of varying heights to make a scalloped/jagged edge.

Hair & Details

Hair (black):
Method A — Crochet cap: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3: *sc, inc* x6 (18)
R4: *2 sc, inc* x6 (24)
R5: sc around (24)
R6–R7: sc around (24) — adjust to fit head depth
Fasten off and sew to top of head. For fringe/sideburns, cut short strands of yarn and attach with a latch hook technique and trim into shape.
Eyebrows/mouth/nose: Embroider with yarn or floss. For nose: crochet a small oval — MR, 5 sc; R2: *sc, inc* x2, sc in remaining sts; shape and sew centered between eyes. For facial expression, embroider a curved smile and two small eyebrows to give Pedro his characteristic grin.

Assembling

Block pieces lightly into shape if needed.
Attach legs first: align hips and sew securely through body rounds to create a flat, stable base. If legs are worked into the body opening instead of sewn, whipstitch from leg top to body opening to close and secure.
Sew arms to shoulders; add a few stitches through body front for stability.
Sew hair cap to top of head, then attach fringe/strands individually for a fuller look. Trim to desired length and shape.
Attach tunic collar/sash around neck, sewing at back and front for a snug fit. Embellish with a faux bone toggle or crocheted small rectangle in contrast color.
Weave in all ends and secure knots. Double check safety eyes and small parts for security.

Finishing touches

Use a little blush (fabric-safe pigment or diluted acrylic paint) on cheeks if desired; test on yarn scrap first.
To make Pedro more poseable: insert thin pipe cleaners inside arms or sew in small joint areas; be careful with safety for toys meant for kids.
For authenticity: give him a small crocheted club — work in brown, do a small handle and an oval head, stuff lightly and sew into one hand.

Variations & sizing tips

Use a smaller hook (3.25 mm) for tighter fabric and a smaller finished toy; use a larger hook (4.0 mm) for a softer, larger toy.
To make a family set: scale yarn weight and hook proportionally or change yarn to DK with a 3.0–3.5 mm hook to make multiple sizes.

Care instructions

Spot clean with damp cloth for surface dirt. Hand wash gently in cool water with mild detergent, reshape and dry flat. Not suitable for machine washing if stuffed with pellets or if safety parts are used.

Credits & contact

Pattern by PurlJam. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Support: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam.

Feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern but please credit "PurlJam — Pedro Picapiedras pattern" and do not reproduce or redistribute this pattern for sale. For questions or troubleshooting, email team@verde.uk or tag #purljam.

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