Pumpkin Cardigan (3–6 months)
A seamless top-down raglan baby cardigan with a sweet pumpkin motif on the front. Worked flat in body after separating sleeves, with optional knitted or crocheted pumpkin applique. Finished measurements and clear step-by-step instructions for an intermediate-beginner knitter.
Finished measurements
- Chest circumference: 18 inches (46 cm)
- Back length (neck to hem): 9.5 inches (24 cm)
- Sleeve length from underarm: 6.5 inches (16.5 cm)
Yarn
DK/light worsted weight yarn. Approximate amounts:
- Main color (MC): 200–250 yards (183–229 m)
- Pumpkin color (PC): 50–75 yards (46–69 m)
- Leaf/stem color (SC): 10–20 yards (9–18 m)
Example: DK 100% wool or soft acrylic suitable for babies. Imperial and metric yardage are shown above.
Needles & notions
- Needles: US 6 / UK 8 / 4.0 mm circular needle (16–32 inches / 40–80 cm) for body and working in the round initially.
- Smaller needles for ribbing: US 5 / UK 9 / 3.75 mm (optional, use if you prefer firmer ribbing).
- Stitch holders or waste yarn
- Tapestry/darning needle for seaming and weaving in ends
- 4–5 small buttons (12–20 mm / 1/2– 3/4 inch)
- Stitch marker (4 markers for raglan increases)
- Optional: crochet hook 3.5 mm to make a crocheted pumpkin applique instead of intarsia
Gauge
22 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on 4.0 mm (US 6) needles. Take time to check gauge.
Abbreviations
- K: knit
- P: purl
- K2tog: knit 2 together
- SSK: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- M1: make 1 (increase) — pick up the bar between sts and knit through back loop
- Kfb: knit into front and back of stitch (alternative increase)
- CO: cast on
- BO: bind off
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
Construction overview
Worked top down in the round to underarms with raglan increases. Sleeves are placed on holders and body is worked flat in rows after separation. Button band is picked up and worked along the right front edge; buttonholes are worked on the left front band. Pumpkin motif is done using intarsia while knitting the right front portion (instructions included), or you may knit a small separate applique and sew it on.
Size-specific notes
This single pattern is for the 3–6 month finished size. To adjust size, increase cast-on for raglan yoke in multiples of 4 sts for each increase round and add length as desired. For a snugger or roomier fit, swap needle size accordingly and recheck gauge.
Pattern
1. Yoke and neck
Using 4.0 mm (US 6) circular needle, MC.
- CO 64 sts using provisional cast-on or long-tail CO. Place marker and join to work in the round being careful not to twist.
- Work 1.5 inches (4 cm) of 1x1 rib (K1, P1) on smaller needles if desired for a firmer neck, otherwise use main needle.
- Switch to stockinette in the round: Knit every round.
- Raglan set-up: Place 4 markers to divide the yoke into 4 sections: Right front (RF), Right sleeve (RSleeve), Back (B), Left sleeve (LSleeve), Left front (LF). With 64 sts total, a typical division is 15 sts RF / 9 sts RSleeve / 16 sts B / 9 sts LSleeve / 15 sts LF. Place markers between these sections.
- Raglan increase rounds (work until yoke length from cast-on to underarm measures approx 5.5 inches / 14 cm or until desired armhole depth):
Increase round (RS): *K to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, slip marker, K1, M1; repeat from * around. Work 2 plain rounds between increase rounds. Repeat these 3-round set 8 times total (or until you have approx 112 sts total). This builds the raglan shaping. Adjust number of repeats for desired depth.
2. Separate sleeves
- When yoke is the desired depth, place sleeve sts on holder: Remove or slip the sleeve sts (the 2 sleeve sections) onto waste yarn or stitch holders. Join yarn and work across the body sts (RF + B + LF) and work in rows for the body. You will work flat across the back and front sections, with a center back and center front seam invisible in the raglan join.
- Count sts: If you followed the sample increases you will have approx 40–42 sts each front and 32 sts back depending on exact increases. Confirm stitch counts and adjust if needed so that fronts are approximately equal.
3. Body
- Work in stockinette flat (RS: knit across, WS: purl back) until body measures 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) from underarm or desired length to hem. For a ribbed hem work 1.25 inches (3 cm) of K1, P1 rib and then BO loosely in pattern.
- Optional shaping: For a slight A-line, increase 1 st each side every 12 rows twice. Make increases symmetrically out of edge stitches (Kfb).
4. Sleeves
- Place held sleeve stitches on 4.0 mm circular needles or DPNs and pick up 2 sts at underarm gap if you prefer to close the gap (optional). You should have about 24–28 sts depending on exact count. Adjust by adding or removing underarm picks to avoid holes.
- Work in the round in stockinette, decreasing 2 sts evenly across the sleeve every 6 rounds until you reach about 20 sts (or desired sleeve width). For a simple sleeve keep as-is.
- Work until sleeve length from underarm measures 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) (or desired length). Work 1.25 inches (3 cm) of K1, P1 rib on 3.75 mm needles and BO loosely in rib.
5. Button bands and buttonholes
- Right front band: With RS facing, pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along front edge using 3.75–4.0 mm needles. Work 1.25 inches (3 cm) of K1, P1 rib or continue rib from neck and BO in rib.
- Left front band: Repeat picking up stitches. For 4 buttons place buttonholes evenly spaced: On the band row, work buttonholes as yo, k2tog (or bind-off and cast-on method). Suggested placement: first buttonhole approx 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) down from neck edge, remaining holes spaced 1.5 inches (4 cm) apart.
6. Finishing
- Weave in all ends. If you used a provisional cast-on at the neck, graft neck edge or pick up and work a small neck rib and BO.
- Sew on buttons opposite the buttonholes. Block gently to measurements.
Pumpkin motif options
Choose intarsia while working the right front (RF) portion during the body section, roughly positioned on the lower-right front. Chart below is 9 sts wide by 7 rows high; each cell represents one stitch in stockinette. Use PC for pumpkin orange, SC for brown/green stem, and MC for background.
Pumpkin chart (9w x 7h)
Row 7: . . P P P . . . .
Row 6: . P P P P P . . .
Row 5: P P P P P P P . .
Row 4: P P P P P P P . .
Row 3: P P P P P P P . .
Row 2: . P P P P P . . .
Row 1: . . P P P . . . .
Legend: P = Pumpkin color (PC); dots = background (MC)
Add stem: work 1–2 sts of SC at Row 7 center by embroidering onto finished pumpkin or include as intarsia small column above pumpkin center.
Intarsia notes: Twist yarns at color joins to avoid holes and carry only where necessary. For such a small motif you may prefer to knit the pumpkin separately as a small flat piece and sew on, or embroider a pumpkin with duplicate stitch.
Knitted pumpkin applique (optional)
Cast on 11 sts in PC. Row 1 (RS): K across. Row 2: P across. Repeat Row 1–2 for 6 rows to make a small rectangle. On RS, decrease to shape: K2tog across row. Cut yarn leaving a long tail, thread through remaining sts, pull tight. Sew a few running stitches vertically to create segments. Add a small green stem with SC embroidery or a small I-cord of 4 sts in SC. Block and sew to front.
Notes & tips
- For a neater underarm when removing sleeve sts, pick up 1 st in the small ridge between front and back and graft or sew lightly after joining to avoid holes.
- To place the pumpkin at a consistent spot, mark the right front center: measure from shoulder down to the desired placement before starting intarsia (suggested starting row 6–8 from underarm).
- Buttons: choose baby-safe shank buttons and ensure they are sewn securely.
Care
Follow yarn manufacturer instructions. For baby items, choose machine-washable yarn and wash gently in a laundry bag or hand-wash and dry flat.
Support and credits
Pattern by Purl Jam. For support: email team@verde.uk. Visit https://purljam.verde.uk and share your makes with #purljam on social media.