Pumpkin Drawstring Backpack (Crochet)

This detailed pattern guides you through crocheting a pumpkin-shaped drawstring backpack with textured ribs, a removable stem and leaf, reinforced straps and an optional fabric lining. Finished bag measures approximately 11 in (28 cm) diameter by 10 in (25 cm) tall. Suitable for confident beginner to intermediate crocheters comfortable with continuous rounds, front post stitches and basic shaping.

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted/Aran weight (US 4). Approx 300 yards (275 m) main color (pumpkin orange). Small amounts: 25 yards (23 m) brown for stem, 15 yards (14 m) green for leaf/cord. Suggested fibers: 100% acrylic or acrylic/wool blend for durability.
• Hook: US G/6 (4.0 mm); UK old 8; Metric 4.0 mm. Optional tighter fabric: US E/4 (3.5 mm); Metric 3.5 mm.
• Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers (8 + 1), small amount toy stuffing or scrap yarn, fabric for optional lining, sewing needle and thread, small cord stops or toggles (optional), scissors, stitch gauge ruler.

Finished size & gauge

Finished approx 11 in (28 cm) diameter by 10 in (25 cm) tall. Gauge: 16 sc x 18 rows = 4 in (10 cm) using 4.0 mm hook. Achieve firm dense fabric for backpack use; go down a hook size if your fabric is open.

Abbreviations (US)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in same st (increase)
• dec = sc decrease (sc2tog)
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• pm = place marker
• sl st = slip stitch
• FPsc = front post single crochet (yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post, complete sc)
• BLO = back loop only

Notes

• Pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless noted. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
• We create a round pumpkin body, place 8 evenly spaced markers to mark pumpkin segments (ridges). For a 72-st round markers will be 9 sts apart (72/8 = 9).
• Ridges are worked by replacing the sc at each marker with a FPsc each round; this forms raised vertical ribs across the body.
• Adjust number of rounds for height to taste. Tight fabric is important for backpacks; consider lining the bag with fabric if using a yarn that stretches.

Pattern

Base and increase to flat circle

Start with magic ring. Work in continuous rounds, placing marker at beg of round and moving up as you go.

1. R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: *sc, inc* around. (18)
4. R4: *2 sc, inc* around. (24)
5. R5: *3 sc, inc* around. (30)
6. R6: *4 sc, inc* around. (36)
7. R7: *5 sc, inc* around. (42)
8. R8: *6 sc, inc* around. (48)
9. R9: *7 sc, inc* around. (54)
10. R10: *8 sc, inc* around. (60)
11. R11: *9 sc, inc* around. (66)
12. R12: *10 sc, inc* around. (72)

After R12 you should have 72 sts. Keep marker at start of round. This count is chosen so you can divide into 8 equal segments of 9 sts each.

Mark segment points

With your main yarn and the round still in hand, place 8 small stitch markers around the circle so there are 9 sts between markers. These markers indicate the position of the 8 pumpkin ribs.

Body (build height and create ribs)

Work rounds in sc. When you arrive at a marker, work FPsc around the corresponding post instead of a regular sc. Continue to move markers up each round so they remain at the rib positions.

1. R13-R24: 12 rounds sc all around, replacing the sc at each marker with FPsc to bring up 8 ribs. (72 each round)

Check height. For the sample bag this 12-round body gives about 4.5 in of vertical height above the circle. Add or subtract rounds to reach approx 10 in total height when combined with the rest of the shaping.

Gentle top shaping (to round the top)

We now begin to reduce the diameter slightly so the pumpkin rounds toward the top but leave an opening for the drawstring.

1. Decrease round 1: *8 sc, dec* around. (64)
2. Round even: sc around, working FPsc at markers for ribs where possible. (64)
3. Decrease round 2: *7 sc, dec* around. (56)
4. Round even: sc around, keep FPsc at marked ribs. (56)
5. Decrease round 3: *6 sc, dec* around. (48)

At this stage you have reduced to 48 sts. Make one or two rounds of sc even if needed so the top is nicely rounded and not too small for the drawstring casing.

Eyelet / drawstring casing round

Create eyelets spaced evenly so the drawstring can be threaded without stretching the bag shape.

1. Round: *sc 4, ch 2, skip 2*, repeat around. Adjust spacing so eyelets are even; there should be roughly 8-12 eyelets depending on how you space the ch2s and total stitch count.
2. Next round: sc in each st and in each ch space to tidy the round and form a neat casing. Work one more round of sc if you want a thicker casing.

Finish top

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing if needed. If you want a tighter gather leave a small hole and use the drawstring cord threaded through the eyelets to close the top.

Straps

Two strap methods included. Option A: Crocheted straps (recommended). Option B: Reinforced fabric straps (recommended for heavy loads).

Option A - Crocheted straps

1. Make 2. Using 4.0 mm hook chain 6. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (5 sc). Turn. Repeat rows until strap measures desired length when folded and attached as shoulder strap. For adult length make each strap 20-26 in (50-65 cm) finished. Create two identical straps.
2. Fold straps longways and sc through both layers along the edge to create a stronger strap if desired. Weave ends securely to the inside bottom of bag using a tapestry needle and backstitch for strength.

Option B - Fabric straps

Cut fabric strips 2 in wide by desired strap length. Fold and stitch into tubes, sew into interior at strap anchor points and cover with a small crocheted tab for neatness.

Drawstring cord

Make a cord approx 120-140 in (300-350 cm) long for a single continuous cord that will double as the shoulder straps when cinched. Adjust length for child/adult sizes.

1. Chain the required length with yarn then sl st back along chain to create a neat cord, or make a crochet I-cord using a small hook for more body.
2. Attach small toggles or beads to cord ends to prevent fraying. Thread cord through eyelets so cords exit at two opposite points; when pulled, cords form the shoulder loops.

Stem and leaf

Stem

1. With brown yarn, make a magic ring.
2. R1: 6 sc in ring. (6)
3. R2-R6: sc around (6) to form a small tube. Adjust rounds to make a stem taller or shorter.
4. Stuff lightly with fiberfill and sew closed if desired. Leave a long tail to sew the stem to the top center of the pumpkin.

Leaf

1. With green yarn ch 8. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc. Fasten off leaving tail for sewing. Use tapestry needle to flatten and sew leaf beside stem.

Lining (optional but recommended)

Cut a fabric circle equal to the inner diameter of the pumpkin plus seam allowance. Cut a rectangular band equal to the circumference by desired lining height plus seam allowances. Sew band to circle, then hand-stitch lining to inside of bag by sewing through stitches or a small crocheted ridge for reinforcement. This prevents stretching and protects contents.

Assembly

1. Thread drawstring through eyelets. Place stem at top center and hand-sew securely through several stitches into the bag and optionally into the lining for reinforcement.
2. Sew straps to interior base with an X stitch for strength or attach straps to sides and reinforce from inside with a small fabric square.
3. Sew leaf next to stem. Weave in and hide all tails.

Finishing touches

• Add a small inside pocket if desired by crocheting a small rectangle and sewing into lining.
• Block lightly to shape but avoid heavy wet blocking if using acrylic. Use a warm steam push to set shape if necessary.

Care

Hand wash cold and lay flat to dry, or machine wash gentle in a mesh bag if yarn label permits. Reshape while damp.

Sizing and adjustments

To make a larger pumpkin increase the number of base rounds and continue increases evenly until desired diameter is reached. To make a child size reduce rounds or use DK yarn with a smaller hook. Maintain segment count divisible by 8 to keep ribs even or reduce to 6 segments by adjusting marker spacing.

Troubleshooting & tips

• If ridges flatten out, add an extra FPsc row or use FPdc for a more pronounced rib.
• For a very sturdy backpack, line with canvas and use reinforced straps or webbing for wear points.
• If tops gape when closed, add a second row of eyelets a round lower and thread drawstring through both rows for stronger gathering.

Contact & credits

Pattern by PurlJam. For support email team@verde.uk. Visit https://purljam.verde.uk for more patterns and share your makes with #purljam.

Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.

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