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purlJam

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Pumpkin Drawstring Backpack (Knitted)

Make a squashy, pumpkin-shaped drawstring backpack with vertical "rib" segments, a chunky knitted stem and comfortable I-cord straps. Worked mostly in the round with an easy increasing base, a body with 8 segment-defining purl columns and a folded top casing for the drawstring. Optional lining and safety notes included.

Finished size

Approximately 11–12" (28–30 cm) diameter when stuffed and 9" (23 cm) tall excluding stem. Size will vary with yarn and gauge.

Yarn

Needles & notions

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rounds = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette in the round on 5.0 mm / US 8 needles. Gauge affects final circumference — change needle size to adjust.

Abbreviations

Notes

This bag is worked from the bottom up: a circular increasing "disc" for the base, then body in the round with 8 evenly spaced purl columns (one purl stitch every 16 sts when working with 128 sts total) to define pumpkin segments. The top is finished with a folded casing for the drawstring; leave small gaps in the stitching of the casing to thread your drawstring in 4 places. After assembly, thread a strong yarn through the purl columns from top to bottom and cinch to form the rounded pumpkin segments.

Stitch counts & numbers used in this pattern

We work base increases from 8 sts up to 128 sts (which divides evenly into 8 segments → 16 sts per segment).

Bottom (make base disc)

  1. CO 8 sts with long-tail or preferred cast-on on 5.0 mm (US 8) circular or DPNs. Join carefully being careful not to twist. Place marker (pm) at beginning of round.
  2. Increase rounds: Work the following rounds, repeating the pattern between * * as indicated. After each round you will have: Round 1: 16 sts; Round 2: 24 sts; Round 3: 32 sts; Round 4: 40 sts; Round 5: 48 sts; Round 6: 56 sts; Round 7: 64 sts; Round 8: 72 sts; Round 9: 80 sts; Round 10: 88 sts; Round 11: 96 sts; Round 12: 104 sts; Round 13: 112 sts; Round 14: 120 sts; Round 15: 128 sts.
  3. Increase detail (repeat each round as a full round):
Rnd 1: *Kfb* around (8 → 16 sts)
Rnd 2: *K1, Kfb* around (16 → 24 sts)
Rnd 3: *K2, Kfb* around (24 → 32 sts)
Rnd 4: *K3, Kfb* around (32 → 40 sts)
Rnd 5: *K4, Kfb* around (40 → 48 sts)
Rnd 6: *K5, Kfb* around (48 → 56 sts)
Rnd 7: *K6, Kfb* around (56 → 64 sts)
Rnd 8: *K7, Kfb* around (64 → 72 sts)
Rnd 9: *K8, Kfb* around (72 → 80 sts)
Rnd 10: *K9, Kfb* around (80 → 88 sts)
Rnd 11: *K10, Kfb* around (88 → 96 sts)
Rnd 12: *K11, Kfb* around (96 → 104 sts)
Rnd 13: *K12, Kfb* around (104 → 112 sts)
Rnd 14: *K13, Kfb* around (112 → 120 sts)
Rnd 15: *K14, Kfb* around (120 → 128 sts)

After Rnd 15 you should have 128 sts. Check your flat circular disc: it should lie mostly flat. If you need a larger or smaller base, continue or stop increase rounds keeping the increases evenly spaced.

Body (pumpkin sides)

  1. Now that you have 128 sts, begin the segment pattern to make 8 vertical ridges. Work in the round as follows:
Body pattern (repeat these rounds until piece measures ~9" / 23 cm from base):
Round: *K15, P1*  — repeat 8 times (128 sts total)
Work even in this pattern until bag height measures ~9" / 23 cm from base. This creates 8 purl columns evenly spaced (16 sts per segment including the purl stitch).

Top finishing & casing

  1. When body height reached, work 8 rounds of K1,P1 rib to form the top border (this helps the casing fold neatly). (Work in the established pattern where purl stitches fall into the rib as possible; if a purl column meets the rib, continue to keep that purl column visible.)
  2. Bind off loosely in pattern.
  3. Fold the bound-off edge to the inside by about 1–1.25" (2.5–3 cm) to form a casing for the drawstring. Using mattress stitch or ladder stitch, sew the fold down from the inside. As you sew the casing, leave four small openings (about 3/8" / 1 cm each) evenly spaced around the top: one at the front center, one at the back center and two at the sides. These will be your drawstring access holes (you can line these up with two of the purl columns or between columns).

Create pumpkin segments (gathering)

  1. Cut a length of strong smooth yarn or upholstery/nylon thread (about 2x the bag height times number of segments; for 8 segments and ~10" height allow ~200–260" / 5–6.5 m—you can trim excess). Thread onto a tapestry needle.
  2. Starting at the inside top edge, follow the first purl column stitch down the inside of the bag and weave the nylon under and over the edge of the purl column (or simply pick up the purl stitch leg each round) so the nylon runs vertically down that column to the base. Repeat for each purl column so you have a vertical nylon thread in each column. Pull gently on all cords to gather the sides into pumpkin lobes; adjust stuffing then tighten more until you get the desired lobed pumpkin shape. Knot securely at the bottom inside or weave ends back up and secure, then hide ends in stuffing.

Top stem & leaf

  1. Stem: With green yarn and 4.0 mm (US 6) needles, CO 6 sts. Work I-cord or small tube: Row: Knit all sts, slide to other end of needle without turning and repeat for about 8–12 rounds (tube should be ~1–1.5" / 2.5–4 cm). Fill very lightly with stuffing. Tighten remaining live sts to close and sew stem centered to the top center of pumpkin (secure to inside so it does not wobble).
  2. Leaf (optional): CO 8 sts on 4.0 mm needles and work garter-shape decrease leaf: Row 1 knit; Row 2 K2tog, knit to last 2, SSK; repeat 4–5 times until 2 sts remain; bind off and sew to base of stem. Or crochet a small leaf if preferred.

I-cord straps (two)

  1. Make two I-cords for straps on 4.0 mm needles. Cast on 3 sts. Slide sts to other end, do not turn: K3, slide; repeat until cord length is desired (recommended strap length before attaching: 36–40" / 90–100 cm for backpack straps; you may make shorter or longer as needed). You can make them in one long continuous I-cord and cut in half later.
  2. Secure ends and attach to inside of bag near the side openings (about 1.5" / 3–4 cm below top casing) using strong sewing; reinforce with an inner fabric patch or small leather/fabric anchor if the bag will be heavily loaded.

Drawstring

  1. Use worsted yarn or a cord (or knitted I-cord) for the drawstring. Length recommended: 80–120" (200–300 cm) depending on how you run the string (weave through 4 openings so that when pulled it cinches evenly). Thread the drawstring through the 4 casing openings (two at front/back and side slots) so it forms a loop that closes the bag when pulled and can be tied/fastened.

Optional lining

Cut a circular bottom and a rectangular side piece to match the internal circumference and height. Sew the side seam and then the bottom to form a fabric bag. Insert into knitted shell and stitch the lining to the inside of the top casing before finishing so it hides seam allowances and reinforces drawstring openings.

Finishing & tips

Abbreviated pattern summary

CO 8; increase rounds 1–15 as written to 128 sts; work *K15,P1* until height ~9"; 8 rounds K1,P1 rib; bind off; fold to make casing leaving 4 openings; thread nylon through 8 purl columns and gather; add stem and leaf; make two I-cord straps and attach; thread drawstring through casing.

Support

Pattern and support: PurlJam — https://purljam.verde.uk. For help email team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam.


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