Pumpkin Drawstring Backpack (Crochet)

Make a squishy, pumpkin-shaped drawstring backpack that’s roomy enough for a small library of snacks, a tablet, or a weekend’s worth of knitting projects. Worked in continuous rounds for a seamless body, finished by creating the pumpkin’s ridges with gathered yarn lines and a functional drawstring and straps. Suitable for confident beginner/intermediate crocheters.

Finished size

Approximately 11”/28 cm wide by 12”/30 cm high including stem (body ~10”/25 cm high without stem). Depth (front-to-back) ~6”/15 cm when filled.

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted weight/Aran (Category 4). Main color Pumpkin Orange: approx 250–250 yards / 230–230 metres. Stem & accents: small amounts (20–40 yd / 18–30 m each) in Green and Brown. Optional contrasting yarn for face features.
• Hook & needle sizes: Crochet hook (main): US H/8 | UK 6 (old) | 5.0 mm. Use a smaller hook (e.g. 4.5 mm / US 7) if you prefer a tighter fabric. Darning/tapestry needle: large-eye blunt needle for sewing and gathering.
• Notions: 6 oz (approx) stuffing for stem; stitch marker; yarn needle; scissors; safety stitch marker; 2 toggle beads or cord ends (optional) for drawstring tips; small amount of craft felt & glue (optional) for internal reinforcement of strap anchors.
• Other: Optional cotton lining fabric and basic sewing supplies if you prefer a washable, reinforced interior.

Yarn & yardage (imperial & metric)

• Worsted/Aran weight: approx 250 yards (230 m) Pumpkin Orange.
• Green stem: 25 yards (23 m). Brown/accent: 10–20 yards (9–15 m). Extra for straps/drawstring: included in total estimate.

Gauge

14 single crochet (sc) x 16 rounds = 4”/10 cm using 5.0 mm hook. Gauge is flexible for this project—if your fabric is much looser you may wish to go down a hook size for better structure.

Abbreviations (US terms)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• inc = 2 sc in same stitch
• dec = single crochet decrease (sc2tog)
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
]* = repeat as directed

Notes

• Pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless a round break is specified. Use a removable stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
• We aim for a fairly dense fabric so the bag holds shape; if your tension is loose, go down one hook size.
• Ridges: This pattern uses a gathered-line method (running yarn through even-spaced stitch columns and pulling to create pumpkin grooves). You can alternatively use surface post stitches to make ribs if you prefer.

Pattern - Body (pumpkin shell)

Make 1 piece.

Begin with Pumpkin Orange.

1. Round 1: Magic ring, 6 sc into ring (6).
2. Round 2: inc around (12).
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x6 (18).
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x6 (24).
5. Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x6 (30).
6. Round 6: (sc 4, inc) x6 (36).
7. Round 7: (sc 5, inc) x6 (42).
8. Round 8: (sc 6, inc) x6 (48).
9. Round 9: (sc 7, inc) x6 (54).
10. Round 10: (sc 8, inc) x6 (60) - this is your maximum circumference round.
11. Rounds 11–28: sc in each st around (60) for 18 rounds or until piece measures ~9–10”/23–25 cm from start (this makes the main body depth). If you want a shorter/squatter pumpkin, work fewer rounds; for a taller pack, work additional even rounds before decreases.
12. Shaping toward top (optional taper): Begin decreases to bring top in slightly.
    Round 29: (sc 8, dec) x6 (54).
    Round 30: (sc 7, dec) x6 (48).
    Round 31: (sc 6, dec) x6 (42).
    Round 32: (sc 5, dec) x6 (36). Stop here (you will NOT close the top completely; leaving this opening gives room for drawstring channel). Adjust stopping round if you want a wider/narrower mouth.

Rim & drawstring channel

13. Round 33: BLO round: sc in BLO around (36) - this creates a firm rim edge for sewing a channel.
14. Round 34 (drawstring row): *sc 4, ch 2, skip 2; repeat around* (you should create 12 ch-2 loops evenly spaced; adjust by changing sc counts slightly if your stitch counts differ). Join with sl st to first sc if you prefer a closed round for appearance, or continue in continuous rounds if you like.
15. Optional lining step: before finishing, insert a cotton lining and tack into place with a sewing needle and thread, aligning lining holes with ch spaces for the drawstring.

Top finishing & drawstring

1. Fold your rim to check ch-2 loops form a clear channel. For a tighter channel, use ch-1 loops or place your loops closer by doing sc 3, ch 2, skip 2 to make 12–16 loops depending on circumference.
2. Cut a long length of yarn for drawstring (or make two cords and knot together). Thread yarn through each ch-space using a tapestry needle or crochet hook. Add toggles or knot ends and whipstitch ends to secure. You can make a cord by crocheting a chain long enough for shoulder draw and then single crocheting back down the chain for a sturdier cord.

Ridges (pumpkin segments)

1. Decide how many ridges you want: 6–8 are typical. We recommend 8 for a classic look. Mark the top center (between ch spaces) and bottom center opposite. From top to bottom, insert a length of yarn threaded onto a yarn needle under the stitches at evenly spaced intervals (every 7–8 stitches around for 60-st circumference). Pull gently after running the yarn around from top through bottom and back to top several times to create a deep groove, knot securely inside the bag. Repeat for each ridge. Tighten gradually and evenly to keep the pumpkin round and symmetrical.
2. Tip: Use a second identical piece of yarn from inside the bag to help pull evenly if you need extra leverage. Stuff slightly in the stem area before final adjustment to keep the pumpkin plump.

Stem

1. Using Green yarn, make a small cylinder: Ch 6, join to work in rounds (or work flat and roll). Round 1: sc in each ch around, placing a stitch marker to track rounds (6). Rounds 2–6: sc in each st around (6) for 5 more rounds or until stem measures ~1–2”/2.5–5 cm. Increase 1 round or two if you want a thicker stem: (sc, inc) x3 = 9 sts, then work 2 rounds even at 9.
2. Stuff lightly, sew closed at base and attach securely at top center of pumpkin (stitch through several rounds of pumpkin and knot inside). Add a few surface stitches in brown for a withered vine look if desired.

Straps

Make 2 matching straps. These can be crocheted flat for comfort and sewn to the inside bottom of the bag (reinforce with felt or lining).

1. Foundation chain 5 (or make a chain as wide as you prefer, usually 4–6 ch for a narrow strap). Work sc across in rows until strap reaches 28–34”/71–86 cm (adjust to wearer). Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Make a second strap.
2. Attach strap ends to bottom interior of bag: place across the inside bottom seam/gusset area between two ridges (two straps can attach in a V-shape for stability). Backstitch through stitches and lining for reinforcement. Consider adding small felt reinforcement patches sewn inside to distribute tension.

Assembly & finishing

• Sew stem to top center using yarn needle and secure with multiple passes. Hide knots inside pumpkin.
• Weave in all ends. If using lining, sew lining pocket into place and cut small vent slits if necessary before final assembly.
• Pull drawstring to form the bag mouth and weave through toggles if used. Test straps and adjust length.

Optional faces & decorations

• Embroider a jack-o’-lantern face with black yarn or felt pieces glued/sewn on. For longevity, sew felt rather than glue.
• Add a cord vine by chaining a long length in brown and attaching one end to the stem and the other to the bag rim.

Troubleshooting & tips

• Too floppy? Use a smaller hook or add a lining for structure. You can also work one or two rounds of sc in cotton yarn for a sturdier rim.
• Ridges not even? Mark positions with pins or stitch markers before inserting gathering yarn so spacing remains equal.
• Stitch counts off? Adjust ch-skip placement on the drawstring row so loops are evenly distributed; you can convert some ch-2 to ch-1 or add one extra sc between loops to make spacing match circumference.

Care

Spot clean or hand wash in cool water; reshape while damp and dry flat. If you used a sewn-in cotton lining it will be easier to wash separately.

Needle & hook quick reference

• Crochet hook: US H/8 | UK 6 (old) | 5.0 mm.
• Alternative for denser fabric: US 7 | 4.5 mm.
• Darning/tapestry needle: large-eye blunt needle for finishing and for running gathering yarn through stitches.

Abbreviated pattern summary (for experienced makers)

Inc to 60 sts, work even for 18 rounds (adjust for desired height), decrease to ~36 sts to form mouth, BLO rim, create ch-spaces for drawstring, run gathering yarn to create 8 ridges, make stem, straps, attach and finish.

Notes about sizes & conversions

Needle/hook conversion provided as US / UK old / Metric. Yardage is given in both Imperial (yards) and Metric (metres). If you substitute yarn weights, adjust hook and gauge and expect different finished dimensions.

Support & credits

Pattern by Purljam. For support email team@verde.uk. Pattern and more designs at https://purljam.verde.uk. Share your makes: #purljam

Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.

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