44-Stitch DK Mittens (Adult Small/Medium) - PurlJam

Upbeat, tidy mitten pattern built around a 44-stitch cast-on. Worked in the round with a thumb gusset. Knit two identical mittens, or follow the mirroring note for left/right. Includes needle conversions and imperial/metric yarn specs.

Finished measurements

• Circumference: about 8 in / 20.5 cm (unstretched)
• Length from cuff to tip: about 9.5 in / 24 cm (adjustable)
• Thumb circumference: about 6 in / 15 cm

Suggested yarn

• DK / Light Worsted weight yarn (8 ply)
• Amount: 100 g (one 100 g skein is sufficient for a pair)
• Imperial: approx. 230 yards per 100 g
• Metric: approx. 210 meters per 100 g
• Fiber: wool or wool blend recommended for warmth and stretch

Needles

Use double-pointed needles (DPNs) or a small-circumference circular with magic loop. Recommended sizes for this gauge and yarn:

• Main needles: US 6 / UK (old) 8 / 4.0 mm
• Optional smaller for cuff rib: US 5 / UK (old) 9 / 3.75 mm (use if you prefer a firmer cuff)
• Alternate if you prefer a looser fabric: US 7 / UK (old) 7 / 4.5 mm

Gauge

22 stitches = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette (knit in the round) on US 6 / 4.0 mm. IMPORTANT: Swatch in the round (not flat) to check gauge. If you have more sts per 4 in, go up a needle size; if fewer, go down.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• p = purl
• k2tog = knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
• m1 = make 1 increase (specified as M1L or M1R where used)
• M1L = make 1 left (lift bar from front and knit through back loop)
• M1R = make 1 right (lift bar from back and knit through front loop)
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker
• rnd(s) = round(s)

Notes

• Pattern assumes magic loop or 4 DPNs. If using magic loop, be sure your cable is long enough to accommodate 44 sts.
• All stitch counts given are for one mitten unless stated.
• To make a pair where thumbs are mirrored (thumb on left side for first mitten and right side for second), follow the mirroring note at the end of the gusset section.

Instructions

Cuff

1. CO 44 sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round (BOR).
2. Work k2, p2 rib for 1.5 in / 3.8 cm (or desired cuff length). If using a firmer cuff, switch to US 5 / 3.75 mm for the rib and then change to US 6 / 4.0 mm for the hand.

Set-up and place thumb marker

3. Switch to stockinette in the round (knit every round) on US 6 / 4.0 mm.
4. Work one round placing a gusset marker (pm) after 22 sts: k22, pm, k22. The marker identifies the center of the thumb gusset. (This centers the gusset roughly opposite the BOR.)

Thumb gusset

The gusset is worked by increasing on either side of the gusset marker every other round until there are 12 gusset stitches between the markers.

5. Round A (increase round): Knit to 1 stitch before the gusset marker, M1L, k1, M1R, sm (move marker), knit to end of round.
6. Round B: Knit all stitches.
7. Repeat Rounds A and B until there are 12 stitches between the gusset markers (i.e., you will have done 6 increase rounds because each increase round adds 2 stitches). To check count: after an increase round, count the stitches between the markers; stop when you reach 12.
8. Once you have 12 gusset stitches between markers, prepare to place the thumb stitches on waste yarn: On the next round, knit to the first gusset marker, sm, slip the 12 gusset stitches purlwise onto a length of waste yarn or a stitch holder (do NOT twist them). If you prefer, place them directly onto a scrap circular or spare dpn. After removing the 12 sts, cast on 1 stitch (use backward-loop CO or kfb) to bridge the gap, then continue knitting the remaining stitches to finish the round. Your mitten will now have 44 - 12 = 32 active stitches for the hand.

Mirror note: If you want a mirrored thumb placement for the second mitten, when you work the gusset increases for mitten #2 switch the order of the increases on the increase round: instead of M1L then M1R, perform M1R then M1L (this flips the slant), OR place the gusset marker so it appears on the opposite side relative to BOR. Both methods create mirrored thumbs.

Hand

9. Work in the round (knit every round) until the hand measures approximately 2 in / 5 cm less than the total desired length from cast-on to tip, or about 6.5 in / 16.5 cm from the cuff for a total length of ~9 in / 23 cm including cuff. Try the mitten on and adjust before decreasing for the tip.

Top decreases (to shape tip)

10. When the hand length is correct, begin decreases. You now have 32 sts on the needle.
11. Decrease Round 1: *k2tog* around — 16 sts remain.
12. Knit one round.
13. Decrease Round 2: *k2tog* around — 8 sts remain.
14. Cut yarn, leaving a 10 in / 25 cm tail. Thread tail through remaining 8 stitches and pull tight to close, or graft with Kitchener for a neater finish. Weave in end securely.

Thumb

15. Return the 12 thumb stitches from the waste yarn to your needles. You will pick up a few stitches from the base to avoid holes: pick up 2–3 sts from the gap where you cast on earlier (pick up evenly from either side of the cast-on). Typical pickup: pick up 3 sts from the left side of the gap and 3 sts from the right side. Your total thumb stitch count should be 18 (3 picked up + 12 held + 3 picked up). If you prefer a slimmer thumb, pick up only 2+12+2 = 16 sts.
16. Distribute the thumb stitches on DPNs (or use magic loop) and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place BOR if desired.
17. Knit in the round until thumb measures about 1.75–2.0 in / 4.5–5 cm from base (or desired length to tip).
18. Decrease Round A: *k2, k2tog* repeat to end — this decreases 18 to 12 sts (if you started with 18).
19. Knit one round.
20. Decrease Round B: *k1, k2tog* repeat to end — this decreases 12 to 8 sts.
21. Cut yarn leaving a 6–8 in / 15–20 cm tail. Thread tail through remaining 8 sts and pull tight or graft with Kitchener. Weave in end firmly on wrong side.

Finishing

• Weave in all ends. Use a darning needle and weave into the ribbing and inside of mitten.
• Block lightly if desired (wool steam or gentle wet block) to even stitches and shape. Do NOT over-stretch.
• Repeat all steps for second mitten, remembering the mirroring note if you prefer thumbs on opposite sides.

Sizing adjustments

• To make larger mittens, increase cast-on in multiples of 4 sts (so you keep similar thumb proportions): +4 sts = slightly larger circumference. Recalculate gusset placement at roughly halfway point (i.e., place gusset marker after half the cast-on).
• For smaller, reduce cast-on by 4 sts and reduce overall length.

Troubleshooting & tips

• If there’s a small hole where you removed thumb sts, pick up an extra stitch when joining the thumb and/or use a small duplicate stitch to tidy the gap.
• Keep an even tension when picking up stitches for the thumb base; if the base is too tight, add one more picked-up stitch evenly spaced.
• For a warmer mitten, add a lining or use a thicker yarn and larger needles with adjusted gauge.

Support & credits

Pattern by PurlJam. For questions or support email team@verde.uk. Visit https://purljam.verde.uk and share your makes with #purljam.

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