PurlJam Classic Beanie (Knit)

Versatile, easy-to-fit knit beanie with optional brim depth and slouch. Clear step-by-step instructions, multiple sizes, full needle-size conversions, yarn in Imperial and Metric. Pattern designed for worsted/aran weight yarn.

Sizes (finished circumference / recommended head circumference / height from cast-on to crown start)

• Small: 20 in / 51 cm (fits 20 in head). Cast on: 100 sts. Crown start at 7.5 in / 19 cm.
• Medium: 22 in / 56 cm (fits 22 in head). Cast on: 110 sts. Crown start at 8 in / 20.5 cm.
• Large: 24 in / 61 cm (fits 24 in head). Cast on: 120 sts. Crown start at 8.5 in / 21.5 cm.

Gauge

20 sts x 28 rounds = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette in the round on US 8 (5.0 mm). Check your gauge and adjust needle size if necessary.

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted / Aran / Medium (US 4). Imperial & Metric yardage (approx): Small 150 yd / 137 m (~55 g), Medium 200 yd / 183 m (~75 g), Large 225 yd / 206 m (~85 g). One 100 g / 200 yd ball will usually cover Medium; use 1-2 balls as needed.
• Needles: Circular (magic loop or 16"/40 cm for small or longer for larger sizes; you can also use 16"/40 cm for magic loop) and DPNs for decreases. Exact sizes below.
• Stitch marker, tapestry needle, scrap yarn for provisional cast-on or gauge swatch if needed, small pompom optional.

Needle Sizes (US / UK (old) / Metric)

• Ribbing (optional smaller needles for a firmer brim): US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm
• Body (stockinette): US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm
• DPNs for crown decreases (if preferred): same as body size (US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm)

Abbreviations

• K = knit
• P = purl
• K2tog = knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
• St(s) = stitch(es)
• PM = place marker

Notes

• This pattern assumes you cast on a multiple of 10 stitches (100 / 110 / 120 listed). That makes the crown decrease sequence below work cleanly. If you use a different cast-on, follow the "Alternate crown decrease" instructions.
• Rib depth is adjustable. 1.5 in / 4 cm for a low brim, 2 in / 5 cm for a standard brim, 3 in / 7.5 cm if you want to fold it up.
• For a slouchier beanie, add 1–2 in / 2.5–5 cm to the length before starting the crown decreases.

Pattern

1) Cast on

Using long-tail cast-on, cast on the required number of stitches for your size (Small 100, Medium 110, Large 120). Join to work in the round being careful not to twist. PM to mark the beginning of the round.

2) Brim (ribbing)

Change to smaller needles (optional) and work K2, P2 ribbing for chosen depth:

• Low brim: 1.5 in / 4 cm
• Standard brim: 2 in / 5 cm
• Deep/folded brim: 3 in / 7.5 cm

If you want a firmer brim, use US 7 / 4.5 mm for ribbing; otherwise rib on body needles.

3) Body

Switch to body needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm) if you used smaller needles. Knit every round (stockinette in the round) until your piece measures the specified distance from cast-on to crown start: Small 7.5 in / 19 cm, Medium 8 in / 20.5 cm, Large 8.5 in / 21.5 cm (or your preferred length). For slouch add 1–2 in / 2.5–5 cm.

4) Crown decreases (works for any cast-on that is a multiple of 10)

We use a staged decrease where we reduce one stitch per repeat in a series of rounds, decreasing the number of knits between decreases by 1 each stage. Work the following sequence exactly, working one plain knit round between each decrease round. The sequence assumes your starting cast-on is a multiple of 10 (100/110/120):

Round A: *K8, K2tog* repeat to end. (One stitch decreased per repeat)
Knit 1 round
Round B: *K7, K2tog* repeat to end
Knit 1 round
Round C: *K6, K2tog* repeat to end
Knit 1 round
Round D: *K5, K2tog* repeat to end
Knit 1 round
Round E: *K4, K2tog* repeat to end
Knit 1 round
Round F: *K3, K2tog* repeat to end
Knit 1 round
Round G: *K2, K2tog* repeat to end
Knit 1 round
Round H: *K1, K2tog* repeat to end
Knit 1 round
Round I: *K2tog* repeat to end

After Round I you should have about 10 stitches remaining (exact number may vary by starting count; if you have more remaining, repeat smaller-spacing decrease rounds until 8–12 sts remain). Break yarn leaving a 12–18 in / 30–45 cm tail.

5) Finish

1. Thread tail through tapestry needle and draw through remaining stitches. Pull snug to close the top.
2. Weave in end securely on the inside of the hat. Tighten and arrange decreases so the crown looks neat.
3. Block lightly if necessary—steam or very gentle wet block to even stitches.
4. Optional: attach a pompom or decorative tag.

Alternate crown decrease (if you cast on a non-multiple of 10)

Calculate the number of decreases you want to perform in the first decrease round (for example, aim to reduce 8–12 stitches on the first decrease round). Divide your current stitch count by that number to get the spacing. Example: if you have 97 sts and want 11 decreases, 97 / 11 ≈ 8.8 so work a pattern that alternates sections of 8 and 9 knits between decreases to distribute decreases evenly. Alternatively, use this method:

1. Round 1: Knit, placing decreases roughly every 8–10 sts to get the total you want.
2. Round 2: Knit.
3. Repeat reducing the number of plain knits between decreases by 1 each decrease round until about 8–12 sts remain.

Working evenly and counting after each decrease round keeps your crown centered and neat.

Tips & Troubleshooting

• If the crown puckers oddly, redistribute stitches on needles evenly, then continue decreases.
• Measure your gauge swatch in the round if possible—flat swatches can be looser.
• If hat feels too tight or loose, adjust needle size by one step and re-check gauge.

Finishing notes

Weave in all ends securely. For a tidy inside, weave the tail in a spiral on the wrong side of the crown. If making pompom, secure with a double knot and weave tail through several stitches on the inside to anchor it.

Support & Links

Website: https://purljam.verde.uk
Support: team@verde.uk
Socials: #purljam

Enjoy knitting—if you need a modification (children's sizes, chunky yarn version, or a slouchier shaping), ask for a tailored variant.

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