Top-Down Queen Stitch Sweater — Size L (Finished Bust 44\" / 112 cm)

Worked top-down in the round. Begin with a tubular cast-on for the rib, then continue in Queen Stitch across yoke and body. Sweater is designed for a relaxed fit with ~4\" positive ease (change needle or yarn if you need different ease).

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted weight / UK Aran (approx. 200 yds / 183 m per 100 g). Amount: 1200 yds (1097 m) / about 6 x 100 g skeins (adjust if your yarn yardage differs).
• Needles: Circular needles (use long circular for magic-loop or 32\" / 80 cm as preferred): Rib/tubular - US 6 / UK 8 (old) / 4.0 mm, 32\" (80 cm) circular; Main - US 8 / UK 6 (old) / 5.0 mm, 32\" (80 cm) circular. Set of double-pointed needles (DPNs) US 8 / 5.0 mm for sleeves if you prefer DPNs.
• Notions: 4 stitch markers (one contrasting for raglan divides), waste yarn or stitch holders for sleeves, tapestry needle, stitch gauge ruler, tape measure.

Gauge

Queen Stitch: 18 sts and 24 rows = 4\" / 10 cm in the round on US 8 / 5.0 mm needles. IMPORTANT: Make a swatch in queen stitch and wash/block it the way you will finish the sweater. Adjust needle size if necessary.

Finished Measurements (Size L shown)

• Chest (circumference): 44\" / 112 cm
• Body length (underarm to hem): 18\" / 46 cm (customize to preference)
• Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 18\" / 46 cm
• Neck opening after rib: approx 14.5\" / 37 cm (comfortable pull-over neck)

Abbreviations (US)

• K — knit
• P — purl
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• PM — place marker
• SM — slip marker
• RS — right side
• WS — wrong side
• M1R — make 1 right-leaning (pick up bar between sts from front to back and knit through back loop)
• M1L — make 1 left-leaning (pick up bar between sts from back to front and knit through front loop)
• K2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• SSK — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• CO — cast on
• BO — bind off

Queen Stitch (worked in the round)

Queen Stitch is a 4-round repeat that gives a refined textured fabric that still behaves like stockinette. Work in rounds as follows (repeat rounds 1–4):

1. Rnd 1: *K1, P1* to end.
2. Rnd 2: *K1tbl, P1* to end. (Knit into the back loop of the K stitch from previous round to shift texture.)
3. Rnd 3: *P1, K1* to end.
4. Rnd 4: *P1, K1tbl* to end.

Note: When working increases or decreases that interrupt pattern, work the Queen Stitch motif as much as possible and maintain K/P positions relative to the round.

Tubular Cast-On for 1x1 Rib (short method)

This gives a stretchy, neat rib edge. Work on US 6 / 4.0 mm needles.

1. Using waste yarn, CO required number of sts + 2 (see cast-on number below) onto needle using a provisional or waste yarn long-tail method, join to work in the round and work 6 rounds of 1x1 rib (K1, P1) in waste yarn. Alternatively make a true tubular cast-on if you prefer.
2. Switch to working yarn. Pick up the floating chain from provisional cast-on and place the live sts on your needle so you have a tubular join. Work 6 rounds of 1x1 rib in working yarn, joining cleanly to the provisional/band so that you have a flat tubular 1x1 rib cuff. (If you used a provisional CO, remove waste yarn before you pick up the chain.)

Neck and Yoke (Top-down Raglan)

Initial neck cast-on and distribution (this gives the intended final section sizes after raglan increases). Cast on with the tubular method on US 6 / 4.0 mm: CO 100 sts. Distribute as follows and place markers (PM) between sections for raglan lines:

Setup sequence around needle: Front 43 sts, PM, Sleeve 7 sts, PM, Back 43 sts, PM, Sleeve 7 sts, PM (total 100 sts).

Switch to US 8 / 5.0 mm and join if not already joined. Begin yoke in Queen Stitch.

Raglan increase scheme: Increase round every other round (i.e., Increase Round, then Work 1 plain Queen Stitch round between increases). On increase rounds, work increases at each side of the 4 raglan markers as follows:

Increase round (worked every other round): *Work Queen Stitch pattern to 1 st before raglan marker, M1R, K1 (this is the raglan stitch), SM, K1, M1L, then continue in Queen Stitch to next marker.*

Notes:

• Each increase round adds 8 sts (2 sts per raglan line).
• Work a plain Queen Stitch round (no increases) between increase rounds so the increases are spaced by one non-increase round for neat lines.

Work 28 increase rounds in total. Technical math: CO 100 + (28 x 8) = 324 sts total at the end of raglan increases.

At this point each section will be (initial + 2 x increases per section): Front = 43 + 56 = 99 sts, Sleeve 1 = 7 + 56 = 63 sts, Back = 99 sts, Sleeve 2 = 63 sts. Total: 99 + 63 + 99 + 63 = 324.

Measure yoke depth (from cast-on edge down along shoulder). If you prefer depth-by-measurement instead of rounds, stop when yoke depth measures approximately 9.5\" / 24 cm from the cast-on edge — this will be approximately the 28-increase-round point with the given gauge; adjust if you prefer a deeper or shallower yoke.

Separation — Place Sleeves on Hold and Join Body

1. When you have completed the 28th increase round and you are at the right spot for separation, work to first raglan marker.
2. Slip sleeve 1 sts (63 sts) to waste yarn or a holder. Remove marker and place a marker in the place where you will later pick up or graft (optional).
3. Continue and work across Back sts (99 sts) to next marker. Slip sleeve 2 sts (63 sts) to holder.
4. Now you have Front sts remaining (99 sts) on your needle.
5. Cast on underarm stitches to join body: CO 6 sts total (3 sts at each underarm seam) or 8 sts if you prefer more ease at underarm. This pattern uses 6 sts (3 + 3). After casting on the first 3 underarm sts, join to the Back sts and place a marker for the start of body round, then CO the final 3 underarm sts to finish the join. The extra underarm sts allow a smooth join and room for seaming if you prefer.
6. Now your body in-the-round stitch count = Front 99 + Back 99 + underarm 6 = 204 sts.

Body

Switch to working in Queen Stitch in the round for the body on US 8 / 5.0 mm.

1. Work even in Queen Stitch until body measures 18\" / 46 cm from underarm (or your preferred torso length).
2. Optional: If you want to shape waist slightly, decrease 8 sts evenly over the first 2\" (5 cm) after separation (e.g., work two evenly spaced decrease rounds removing 4 sts each) — this is optional. Pattern here continues straight for clean lines.
3. When you reach desired length, switch to US 6 / 4.0 mm and work 1x1 rib tubular hem: work 6 rounds tubular-style rib in 1x1, then finish with a loose bind-off in pattern (a stretchy bind-off such as Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off works well; you may also do a tubular BO if you used a true tubular CO).

Sleeves

Prepare each sleeve one at a time.

1. Place the 63 sleeve sts from holder onto US 8 / 5.0 mm needles (or DPNs). Pick up the 3 underarm stitches from the CO you made for that sleeve (from the 6 underarm sts, 3 belong to each sleeve). Join in the round — marker at start of sleeve.
2. Initial sleeve stitch count = 63 + 3 = 66 sts for each sleeve using the 6-underarm method (if you cast on 8 underarm sts and split 4+4 per sleeve you would have 67 sts, etc.). Note: earlier we computed sleeve final as 63 + 3 = 66. This gives sleeve circumference of 66 / 4.5 ≈ 14.7\" which is a comfortable sleeve circumference; adjust as desired.
3. Work even in Queen Stitch in the round until sleeve measures approximately 1.5\" / 4 cm less than your desired sleeve length from underarm (so you can shape the cuff), e.g., work until sleeve from underarm = 16.5\" / 42 cm.
4. To taper sleeve toward the cuff, decrease evenly: Decrease 2 sts (1 at each side of the sleeve) every 1.25–1.75 inches until cuff circumference is approximately 9\" / 23 cm (or your preferred wrist circumference). Example spacing: Work 14 decrease rounds spaced evenly to reduce from 66 to 42 sts (14 rounds x 2 sts per round = 28 sts removed; 66-28=38 sts — adjust to your target). A clearer approach is to measure and decrease until circumference matches your target. Use standard decreases that preserve pattern: on decrease rounds work K to 2 sts before marker, SSK, K1tbl (or keep motif by doing decreases in knit positions).
5. When sleeve circumference is reached, switch to US 6 / 4.0 mm and work 1x1 rib for 1.5–2\" / 4–5 cm, then bind off loosely in rib.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends neatly with tapestry needle. Graft or mattress-stitch any underarm joins if you prefer a smooth finish; otherwise a small seam is fine.
2. Block gently to the finished measurements: pin to shape and steam or soak and dry flat as per yarn instructions. Blocking will even the Queen Stitch texture and set the drape.
3. Check neck opening. If you'd like a narrower neckline, you can pick up a few stitches and add a short collar; for a deeper neckline, leave as is.

Stitch Counts Summary

• Cast on: 100 sts (Tubular CO)
• After 28 raglan increase rounds: 324 sts total (Front 99 / Sleeve 63 / Back 99 / Sleeve 63)
• After separation and casting on 6 underarm sts: Body = 204 sts
• Sleeve initial after picking up underarm sts: 63 + 3 = 66 sts each

Adjusting Size & Notes

• To make this pattern smaller or larger: Keep the same relative distribution (Front, Sleeve, Back, Sleeve) but calculate your target final stitches using your gauge: Total final stitches at separation = (Desired chest circumference + 2 x Desired sleeve circumference) x (stitches per inch). Subtract your chosen provisional cast-on to determine how many increase rounds (each increase round adds 8 sts).
• If your gauge differs, recalculate numbers accordingly. This pattern gives explicit numbers for the stated gauge; always swatch.

Troubleshooting & Tips

• Queen Stitch aligns K/P positions each round; when making raglan increases adjacent to pattern, resume the K/P sequence as naturally as possible — if you end a repeat in the middle of the motif, keep the motif rhythm on the following repeat.
• Markers: Use distinctive markers at raglan lines. Remove and replace markers as instructed. Place an additional marker where you cast on underarm stitches to note the body start.
• Stretchy bind-offs and COs make garments easier to get over the head; tubular techniques add a professional finish.

Contact & Support

Pattern and support: https://purljam.verde.uk. For help, email team@verde.uk. Follow/hashtag: #purljam

Happy knitting — take your time with the tubular cast-on and raglan shaping, and enjoy the Queen Stitch texture. If you need this written for a different size or want the stitch counts recalculated for a different gauge, I can provide adjusted numbers.

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