Realistic Layered Butterfly with Layered Wings (Crochet)

Designer: PurlJam · Support: team@verde.uk · Website: https://purljam.verde.uk · Social: #purljam

Overview

This pattern creates a small realistic-looking butterfly with two layered wings per side (an inner decorative lobe and a slightly larger outer wing) so you can build depth, veins and markings. Worked mainly in crochet (flat wings and an amigurumi body). Includes surface embroidery for veins and scalloped edging for realism. Finished wingspan: approx 6–8 in / 15–20 cm (adjust by hook/yarn choice).

Skill level

Intermediate. You should be comfortable with crochet in the round and flat, increases/decreases, surface slip stitch/embroidery and sewing pieces together.

Materials

• Yarn: Fingering / 4-ply (recommended) or light sport/DK for a slightly larger butterfly. Yarn specification: Fingering (approx 400 yds / 100 g). Approx amounts: Main color (wing base) 25–40 yds / 23―37 m (~10–20 g / 0.35–70 oz). Accent color(s) (veins/marks) 10–15 yds / 9–14 m (~5–9 g). Body color (contrasting) 10–20 yds / 9–18 m. Totals: ~60–100 yds / 55–95 m; ~25 g / 0.9 oz total (depends on size).
• Hook / needles (conversions included): Recommended crochet hooks for fingering/sport:
  • US E-4 / UK 8 / 3.5 mm
  • US D-3 / UK 11 / 3.25 mm
  • Use a smaller hook (US D-3 / 3.25 mm) for tighter stitches and firmer wings; larger (US E-4 / 3.5 mm) for drapier wings.
  Optional knitting needles for a knit-wing variation (not required):
  • US 2 / UK 12 / 2.75 mm
  • US 3 / UK 11 / 3.25 mm
  • US 4 / UK 10 / 3.5 mm
• Notions: Tapestry needle, small amount of stuffing (polyfil or wool) for body, stitch marker, scissors, small pins for blocking, sewing needle and thread or yarn for assembly, optional thin wire (for adjustable antennae covered with yarn).

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• inc = 2 sc in next st
• dec = sc decrease (sc2tog)
• [ ] = repeat instructions inside brackets as indicated
• RS = right side, WS = wrong side

Gauge & Finished Size

Gauge is approximate (pattern is forgiving). With US D-3 / 3.25 mm hook using fingering yarn: 24 hdc x 12 rows = 2 in / 5 cm (flat swatch). Finished wingspan approx 6–8 in / 15–20 cm depending on yarn/hook.

Construction summary

1. Make 2 outer wings (mirror pair).
2. Make 2 inner wings (slightly smaller, mirror pair).
3. Make body (amigurumi tube with shaping).
4. Optional: embroider veins on wings with surface slip stitch or chain embroidery, add spots.
5. Assemble wings onto body overlapping inner and outer layers for depth; add antennae and finish.

Wing Patterns (Crochet - make 2 of each, L & R mirrored)

Outer Wing (base, larger)

Notes: The outer wing is worked in joined rounds around a starting chain (oval). For a mirrored pair, reverse increases/decreases or work a mirrored foundation chain by flipping reference when sewing.

Materials: Contrast A (wing base). Start: ch 14 (this creates the oval foundation; adjust chain length for larger/smaller wing).

1. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across to last ch (12 sc), 3 sc in last ch; now working down the opposite side of foundation chain, sc across 12 sc, 2 sc in first ch (to round up) — join with sl st to first sc. Total 30 sc.
2. R2: (sc, inc) around at even intervals to shape: *sc 2, inc* repeat 7 times, sc remaining to finish round loosely to 38 sc total. Join. (If your tension gives different count, keep proportions: add increases across the two long sides and 3-increases at both tips.)
3. R3: sc around 38. Place 8 increases spaced across the outer lobe side to create curve: sc 3, inc    repeat so the curved edge grows. Join. (approx 46 sc)
4. R4: sc around (no increases) to firm the shape. (approx 46 sc)
5. Shape round: Work 2 rows of alternate sc and hdc on the long edge (the top of the wing) to add texture: RS: *sc 3, hdc 2* across; WS: sc across. Fasten off and leave tail for sewing.
6. Edge (optional): With right side facing, attach a contrasting color and work a single round of sl st + picots to create a scalloped realistic margin: *sl st 2, ch 3, sl st in first ch (picot)* along the curved edge only. Fasten off.

Inner Wing (top lobe, smaller)

Inner wing is slightly smaller and has more pronounced scallops and a textured center to accept embroidered veins.

Materials: Contrast B (accent color). Start: ch 10.

1. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook across (9 sc), 3 sc in last ch, sc across other side (9 sc), 2 sc in first ch. Join. Total 24 sc.
2. R2: sc around 24, placing 6 increases spaced across the outer curve to gently expand. (approx 30 sc)
3. R3: sc around 30. On the next RS row, make texture: *hdc 2, sc 3* across the top edge to suggest wing texture.
4. R4: Sc around, finish with a decorative picot edge on the curved margin: *sl st 2, ch 3, sl st in first ch* every 3–4 stitches to mimic scalloped wing edge. Fasten off and leave a tail.

Notes on mirroring

To make a left and right wing that mirror each other exactly: for the second wing start with the same foundation chain but when sewing to the body reverse the orientation so the curved edge faces outward on each side. Alternatively, work the chain in the opposite direction (start chain mirrored) or place increases symmetrically on the opposite long side when working rounds.

Body (Crochet tube)

Work in continuous rounds (amigurumi style) to make a tapered body you can sew wings onto.

Using yarn for body color and a 3.25 mm (US D-3) hook.
Magic ring, or ch 2 start.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
R4-7: sc around (18) - lengthen to taste (4 rounds = short body; add 1-2 rounds for a longer body)
R8: (sc 4, dec) around (15)
R9: sc around (15)
R10: (sc 3, dec) around (12) - stuff firmly
R11: dec around to 6, fasten off and close remaining hole. Leave a long tail for sewing. (Optional: embroider segments by creating lines around the body with contrasting yarn.)

Antennae

• Option 1 (yarn covered wire): Cut 6–8 cm wire, fold in half, twist the ends slightly, wrap tightly with a very thin yarn or embroidery thread, tie off and glue or sew into the head.
• Option 2 (crocheted): ch 12, sl st back along chain for a thin cord, sew into head and curve into shape. Add a small bead or knot at the tip if desired.

Veins & Spots (embroidery)

Use surface slip stitch or simple chain embroidery with a contrasting shade. For realistic veins: start at the wing root and work 3–4 main veins that branch once or twice toward the margin. Use a darker slightly thicker yarn or 2 strands of fingering for veins. Spots can be small embroidered circles or sewn-on French knots (if using embroidery thread) placed on the outer wing near the tips.

Assembly

1. Block both wings flat to smooth stitches and set shape. Pin to shape and lightly mist with water or use a light starch spray for crisp edges. For very small pieces, careful pinning to foam with straight pins works well.
2. Place outer wing flat WS down. Position inner wing slightly overlapping near the wing root so its convex curve sits above the outer lobe. Pin in place.
3. Sew inner wing to outer wing at a few stitches near the root using mattress stitch or small whipstitches so the seam is invisible from RS. Do not sew around the full margin; leave the curved edge free to create depth.
4. Sew both wing assemblies to the body: center the wings on each side, staggering inner wing slightly higher than outer wing to create layering. Use long running stitches through the wing base into several body rounds for strength. Reinforce with tiny backstitches where needed.
5. Attach antennae to the top of the head and hide the secure stitches inside the head by pulling the tail through and knotting inside the body.

Finishing touches

• Trim loose ends, weave tails into body.
• For extra realism, felt tiny darker patches or use a water-based fabric pen to add subtle shading on yarn if colorfast.
• For a wing that can be repositioned, attach the wings on a short length of thread loop stitched into the body so you can angle them.

Variations & sizing

• Scale up: use sport/DK yarn and a larger hook (US 4/3.5 mm or US 6/4.0 mm) and increase foundation chain length for larger wings.
• Layer complexity: add a third, translucent layer with very fine yarn or crochet thread for a realistic translucent veil.
• Stiffer wings: crochet with a slightly larger hook then stiffen with diluted PVA glue or fabric stiffener and shape over a curved form.

Stitch count summaries (quick reference)

Outer wing approx counts by round: R1=30 sc, R2~38 sc, R3~46 sc, R4~46 sc.
Inner wing approx counts by round: R1=24 sc, R2~30 sc, R3~30 sc.
Body approx: top rounds 6, 12, 18 then straight 18 for length, taper to 6.
Adjust counts to make L/R pairs mirror each other and to scale wings to body.

Troubleshooting

• Wings too floppy: use smaller hook/firmer tension or add a lining layer of very light interfacing or craft felt glued to WS.
• Wing shape not matching mirror pair: place both right before fastening off and compare; adjust last round increases on one wing to mirror the other.
• Body appears bulky: use finer yarn or fewer rounds, or switch to single-strand embroidery thread for the body for a petite build.

Care

Spot clean with cool water and mild soap. If wings are stiffened or embroidered, hand wash gently and reshape while damp.

Notes & credits

Pattern by PurlJam. For questions or support email team@verde.uk. Share finished butterflies with the hashtag #purljam.

Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.

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