Sadsack Doll — knitted soft-sculpture pattern

A small, slightly melancholy, endlessly huggable knitted doll with droopy features and a slumped posture. Worked mostly in the round; simple shaping and clear assembly steps make this a great stash-busting project. Finished doll measures about 12 in / 30 cm tall (see gauge notes to adjust).

Materials

• Yarn, worsted/aran weight (category 4)
  • Main body color: approx 100 g / ~200 yards (183 m)
  • Contrast (hair/scarf/outfit): approx 50 g / ~100 yards (92 m)
  • Small amount of dark yarn or embroidery thread for face
• Needles
  • Main: US 5 / UK 9 / 3.75 mm needles — 16 in (40 cm) circular (magic loop) or set of DPNs
  • Smaller (optional for tighter fabric on hands/feet/neck): US 3 / UK 11 / 3.25 mm DPNs or circular
  • Optional for faster body shaping: US 6 / UK 8 / 4.0 mm if you want a looser fabric (adjust gauge)
• Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers, toy stuffing (polyfill) about 100–150 g, small stitch-safe safety eyes (10–12 mm) or embroidery for eyes, blunt-sewing needle for embroidery, small snip of felt for shoulders (optional), removable marker to reserve opening for stuffing.

Gauge & Finished Size

Gauge: 22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette stitch using US 5 / 3.75 mm needles (in the round). Finished doll approx 12 in / 30 cm tall when knitted to this gauge. Gauge affects final size; change needle size to match gauge.

Abbreviations (US)

• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• p = purl
• k2tog = knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease / invisible decrease)
• kfb = knit into front and back (increase)
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• rnd = round
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker
• dpn = double pointed needle

Notes & Techniques

1. This pattern is worked primarily in the round. You may use DPNs or magic loop on a long circular.
2. Stuff firmly but not overstuffed; overstuffing stresses seams and distorts shaping.
3. When embroidering the face, add features before final stuffing to keep stitches neat.
4. If you prefer a fully washable doll, sew on embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes.

Stitch counts reference

Where the pattern says "[x sts]" that is the total number of stitches on the needle at the end of that round/row.

Pattern Overview

Order of work: Legs (make 2) → Join legs and work body up → Head → Arms (make 2) → Hair and clothing → Face embroidery and assembly.

Legs (make 2)

Worked from foot up; use US 5 / 3.75 mm needles (or US 3 for tighter fabric on foot/toe).

CO 20 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist; pm for beg of rnd. Rnds 1-6: k around. (20 sts)
Rnds 7-20: work in stockinette (k every rnd) until foot measures ~2.25 in / 5.5 cm from CO (or desired foot length).
Toe shaping
Rnd 21: *k3, k2tog; repeat from * to end. (16 sts)
Rnd 22: k around.
Rnd 23: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end. (12 sts)
Rnd 24: k around.
Rnd 25: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * to end. (8 sts)
Cut yarn leaving long tail; thread tail through remaining sts and pull closed. Weave in end later. Stuff foot lightly (do not overstuff). Leave top of leg open for later assembly.

Body (join legs and work up)

Place both finished legs onto one circular (40 sts total: 20 + 20). Using a spare length of yarn, join legs by knitting across first leg sts, then pick up and knit across second leg top edges to create a small bridge so there is no gap (or use 6-8 picked-up sts between legs to shape the crotch). Suggested layout:
Row 1 (joining round): k across leg A (20 sts), pick up 6 sts across the inside ankle of leg A, k across leg B (20 sts), pick up 6 sts across inside ankle of leg B. Total 52 sts.
Rnd 2-8: k around in stockinette. (52 sts)
Rnd 9: Work shaping for hips if desired: *k8, kfb; repeat to end. (58 sts)
Rnds 10-18: k around until body measures ~3.25 in / 8.5 cm from join.
Rnd 19: decrease for waist: *k7, k2tog; repeat to end. (52 sts)
Rnds 20-26: k around to sitter base (adjust length if you want longer torso). Keep body unstuffed until head is largely complete so you can stuff through the neck opening more easily.

Head

We’ll shape the head from the body top; keep an opening for stuffing and for joining later to the neck area.
Rnd 1 (increase round, start small to create nice crown): Using a contrast or same color, kfb each st across to double stitch count if starting from small CO method. If you have 52 sts on body, continue directly:
If you have 52 sts from body: Rnds 1-4: k around even. (52 sts)
Rnd 5: Increase round to achieve head circumference of ~52 sts if you need a fuller crown do: *k7, kfb; repeat to end. (approx 59 sts)
Rnds 6-12: k around even until head measures ~3 in / 7.5 cm from increase round.
Begin shaping the jaw/neck transition
Rnd 13: *k7, k2tog; repeat to end. (approx 52 sts)
Rnds 14-18: k around; continue until head measures ~5.25 in / 13.5 cm from top (adjust to preference).
Eye placement: On a flat surface, mark two points 1.25 in / 3 cm apart (center to center) across the front of the head and about 1.5 in / 3.5-4 cm down from the top to place safety eyes or plan embroidery.
Begin decrease to close the top of head
Rnd 19: *k6, k2tog; repeat to end. (approx 46 sts)
Rnd 20: k around.
Rnd 21: *k5, k2tog; repeat to end. (approx 40 sts)
Rnd 22: k around.
Rnd 23: *k4, k2tog; repeat to end. (approx 34 sts)
Rnd 24: *k3, k2tog; repeat to end. (approx 28 sts)
Rnd 25: *k2, k2tog; repeat to end. (approx 21 sts)
Stuff head firmly to shape; use a blunt tool to push stuffing into nose area and under chin to create droop. Adjust stuffing to create a slightly slumped jaw.
Rnd 26: *k1, k2tog; repeat to end. (approx 14 sts)
Rnd 27: *k2tog; repeat to end until small opening remains. (7 sts)
Cut yarn leaving long tail; thread through remaining sts and pull closed. Weave to secure. Add extra stuffing to shape neck and upper shoulders through neck hole before fully closing the body opening. Weave in ends.

Arms (make 2)

CO 16 sts. Join in round. Rnds 1-6: k around (garment cuff). Rnds 7-18: k around until arm measures ~4 in / 10 cm from CO. Hand shaping:
Rnd 19: *k2, k2tog; repeat to end. (12 sts)
Rnds 20-22: k around.
Stuff lightly as you go but leave top open for sewing. Break yarn leaving long tail and graft or mattress stitch into arm opening on body or pick up sts from shoulder opening and graft in place. For a slumped appearance, stuff less near the shoulder so arms hang limp.

Hair & Face

Face: embroider droopy eyelids and tiny mouth before final stuffing for best control. Suggested features:

• Eyes: place safety eyes or embroider small horizontal ovals using dark thread; make the eyelids slightly angled down toward the nose to get a sad expression.
• Nose: small ridge made by embroidering three vertical satin stitches and then lightly stuffing around to make a little bump.
• Mouth: single short downward curve with embroidery thread; keep it small and centered.

Hair options:

• Simple short hair: attach yarn strands in rows across top of head with a latch hook or crochet hook and trim to even length for a messy slouch look.
• Hat or hood: pick up sts around head and knit a simple beanie to sit low on the brow for a Sadsack aesthetic.

Clothing (optional) — simple shawl/scarf

Cast on 40 sts using contrast color on US 5 / 3.75 mm. Work garter stitch (k every row) for 8 rows. Then decrease 1 st each end every 4th row 6 times to create a little triangle shawl. Bind off. Wrap around shoulders and secure with a stitch or small button.

Assembly & Finishing

1. Sew arms to body at shoulder level: place with the outer edge slightly lower than the top of chest so arms angle forward slightly. Use ladder or mattress stitch for a neat join.
2. Sew legs to the bottom of the body; if you used picked-up sts between legs, be sure to reinforce with backstitch to prevent gaps.
3. Add weighted pellets fabric sachet inside the bottom for better sit if desired; keep pellets in a sewn pouch and enclose in stuffing to avoid contact with skin for safety.
4. Embroider final details: eyebrows, clothing buttons, patches. Keep features proportional and slightly understated to preserve the 'sadsack' mood.

Finishing Tips

• Weave in ends into seams to keep the doll baby-safe.
• Trim hair and style with a small comb if using yarn that blooms when brushed.
• To give the doll a well-loved, slumped look, press the finished doll gently to soften the stuffing inside by hand rather than machine-washing.

Care

Spot clean when possible. If washing is necessary, place doll in a mesh laundry bag and machine wash on delicate cold; reshape and air dry. Embroidered/embroidered eyes are recommended for washing safety.

Variations & Customization

• Change yarn weight and needle size to make a larger or smaller doll; maintain gauge to keep proportions.
• Add removable clothes or knitted boots for more character.
• Use different facial expressions (neutral, tiny smile) to make a whole family of purl-sacks.

Troubleshooting

• If your fabric is too loose and stuffing shows through, go down one needle size or use a tighter stitch pattern (e.g., kfb is loose; try M1L/M1R for neater increases).
• If head looks too pointy at the crown, add an extra small decrease row and redistribute stuffing to soften the shape.

Pattern support and resources: full project page and photos at https://purljam.verde.uk. For questions or pattern help email team@verde.uk. Share makes with #purljam on social media.

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