Seashell Crochet Bikini Top

A breezy, textured bikini top worked in a scallop/seashell stitch. This pattern includes cup shaping, an adjustable band, and shoulder/tie straps. Written for sport/DK cotton-blend yarn with recommendations for customization and optional lining or elastic for swim use.

Sizes & Finished Bust Coverage

• XS (fits 30A-30B): cup base 5.5 in / 14 cm, cup height 5 in / 12.5 cm
• S (fits 32A-32B): base 6 in / 15 cm, height 5.25 in / 13.5 cm
• M (fits 34A-34B): base 6.5 in / 16.5 cm, height 5.5 in / 14 cm
• L (fits 36A-36C): base 7.25 in / 18.5 cm, height 6 in / 15 cm
• XL (fits 38C-38D): base 8 in / 20.5 cm, height 6.5 in / 16.5 cm

Materials

• Yarn: Cotton/nylon blend or 100% mercerized cotton with some nylon content recommended for shape and faster drying.
  Amounts (approx): XS: 125 yds / 115 m; S: 150 yds / 137 m; M: 175 yds / 160 m; L: 200 yds / 183 m; XL: 225 yds / 205 m.
• Hook / Needle size (use to achieve gauge; try larger/smaller for fit): Crochet Hook recommended: 4.0 mm (approx US G-6, UK (old) 8). Optional smaller for denser fabric: 3.5 mm (approx US E-4, UK (old) 9). Optional larger for drapier: 4.5 mm (approx US 7, UK (old) 7).
• Elastic (optional): 1/4 in / 6 mm swim elastic for underband, cut to measurement for band minus 10% for stretch (see Notes).
• Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers, small snap or clasp (optional), removable swim lining fabric if desired, scissors.

Gauge

Shell pattern: 14 dc and 8 rows = 4 in / 10 cm using 4.0 mm hook. Adjust hook to match gauge for accurate cup size.

Abbreviations (US)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• sp = space
• sk = skip
• SC = shell cluster of 5 dc in same st (unless otherwise noted)

Special Stitches

• Shell (SC): Work 5 dc into indicated stitch or space, turn work as directed in pattern notes.
• Picot (optional edge): ch3, sl st into first ch of the 3-ch to form a small picot.

Notes

1. Each cup is worked from bottom center outward as a small triangle of shells; shaping is achieved by increasing rows at center and edges.
2. Make two identical cups, join at center, then add underband and straps. Tie straps allow easy adjustability.
3. For swim use, line each cup with lightweight swim fabric and/or add a 1/4 in elastic to underband for additional support.
4. Always check gauge; cotton yarn may relax with wear and water.

Pattern Overview

Cups: Worked flat in rows in shell stitch. Band: Worked around bottom edge to join cups and form underbust with ties or elastic. Straps: Buttonhole or tie straps for adjustable fit.

Cup Pattern (make 2)

Note: Pattern is given for S; changes for other sizes are in parentheses. Chain counts make the center starting point and form the first row of shells.

1. Foundation: Ch 10 (12, 14, 16, 18). Join with sl st to form a small ring, or you may use magic loop. Do not twist.
2. Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 4 dc into ring (5 dc shell). Turn. (1 shell)
3. Row 2: Ch 3, turn, sk first st, dc into next st, *ch1, sk1, 5 dc in next dc (shell)* repeat across so that you have 2 shells spaced by ch-1 sps. End with dc into last dc. Turn.
4. Row 3: Ch 3, turn, work 5 dc into center of first shell, ch1, 5 dc into center of next shell, continue to end. You will be increasing shells at the outer edges by placing shells into edge dcs each RS row, expanding the triangle.
5. Repeat Row 3 until piece measures (from center bottom to top middle) 5.25 in / 13.5 cm for S (adjust to sizes: XS 5 in / 12.5 cm; M 5.5 in / 14 cm; L 6 in / 15 cm; XL 6.5 in / 16.5 cm) or until desired cup height. Fasten off leaving long tail for joining.

Shaping tips

• To create a rounded top, on final row work: ch3, turn, dc into first shell center, then dc2tog across last two shells to taper the peak, finishing with ch1 and sl st to secure if desired.

Joining Cups

1. Place cups WS together with tails at center bottom. Whipstitch or sc around inner edges for 1.25 in / 3 cm to form the center gore. Alternatively, join with a small strip: ch 40 (measure for desired center width), sl st to join to cups forming a bridge.
2. Try on to check spacing; adjust bridge length for cleavage preference.

Underband

1. With RS facing and using 4.0 mm hook, join yarn at left side under cup edge, ch 1, and sc evenly along bottom edge of cups and center bridge to form underband base. Aim for 2 rows of sc for a stable base.
2. Row 2: Ch3, turn, dc into each sc across to make a decorative rib; for extra support work a second row of sc behind this and stitch in 1/4 in elastic inside the band before finishing.
3. Leave long tail for ties if making fixed ties, or add loops for a clasp.

Straps

• Tie straps (recommended): From top outer corner of cup, attach yarn and ch 120 (or desired length), sl st back into attaching point, finish. Make two straps (one on each cup top outer corner) and two halter straps from top inner corners if you prefer halter style. Alternatively make 2 shoulder straps and a neck tie.
• Fixed straps: ch desired length, join with button loop and fastener.

Finishing

1. Weave in ends. Block lightly to shape cups (damp block on cotton blend). If adding swim lining, hand-stitch lining to back of cups using ladder stitch for neatness.
2. If using elastic: fold underband under, insert elastic, secure ends with a few tight stitches and backstitch several times to anchor. Ensure elastic is evenly distributed.
3. Tidy any visible joins and trim stray threads. Add small beads or shell charms if desired—secure so they won’t come loose in water.

Care

Hand wash cold, reshape, and dry flat. Do not wring. Avoid chlorine long exposures; rinse after salt or pool use.

Adjusting Fit

• To increase coverage: make additional shell rows until desired height, or use a larger hook for drape.
• To decrease coverage: reduce rows or use a smaller hook for a firmer fabric.

Sizing Cheat Sheet (workshop)

Measure across bust from apex to apex to check cup width and try on during band construction. The tie system allows you to fine tune spacing.

Troubleshooting

• Cups too loose: switch to 3.5 mm hook, or add an extra row of shells and shorter spacing between shells.
• Band too tight: use longer chain for bridge or fewer rows of sc; add adjustable ties instead of fixed elastic.

Optional Embellishments

• Row of picots along top edge for decorative finish.
• Add a small central seashell charm or crocheted rosette.

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