Simple Oversized Men’s Jumper — Beginner Friendly (Top-Down Raglan)

Easy, cozy, oversized men’s jumper worked top-down in the round with simple 2x2 rib and stockinette. Ideal for a beginner who wants a wearable, forgiving shape. Try on as you go and adjust length or sleeve depth easily.

Sizes & Finished Measurements

• S (M, L, XL, XXL) — Finished chest: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) in / 107 (117, 127, 137, 147) cm. Designed with roomy oversized ease; adjust by +/- 2–4 in / 5–10 cm as desired.
• Suggested body length (shoulder to hem): 26 (27, 28, 29, 30) in / 66 (69, 71, 74, 76) cm (adjustable)
• Underarm-to-wrist sleeve length: 18 (18.5, 19, 19.5, 20) in / 46 (47, 48, 49.5, 51) cm (adjustable)

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted/Aran weight (Category 4). Example: 100 g = ~200 yd / 183 m per skein.
• Yarn amounts (approx.): S: 1100 yd / 1005 m (~6 skeins of 100 g/200 yd), M: 1300 yd / 1189 m (~7 skeins), L: 1500 yd / 1372 m (~8 skeins), XL: 1700 yd / 1555 m (~9 skeins), XXL: 1900 yd / 1737 m (~10 skeins). Buy an extra skein if you want a deeper hem or long cuffs, or for dyelot consistency.
• Needles (all sizes included):
• Main circular: US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm, 32” (80 cm) cable recommended (or longer for larger sizes).
• Ribbing/optional smaller needle: US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm, 32” (80 cm) or 16” (40 cm) cable for small circumferences.
• Sleeve needles: same as main (use magic loop, 32” cable, or DPNs in US 8 / 5.0 mm).
• Stitch markers (4 + 1 removable marker for beginning of round), tapestry needle, scrap yarn or stitch holders, measuring tape.

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette on US 8 / 5.0 mm needle. Check your gauge: if you have more sts per 4”, go up a needle size; if fewer, go down.

Raglan Numbers & Starting Counts

This pattern uses top-down raglan increases. The pattern lists the cast-on and how many raglan increase rounds to work for each size so you arrive at the stated finished chest.

• S: cast on 60 sts; work 16 raglan increase rounds; total sts after raglan = 188; section (front/back/sleeve) sts = 47 each.
• M: cast on 64 sts; work 18 raglan increase rounds; total sts after raglan = 208; section sts = 52 each.
• L: cast on 72 sts; work 19 raglan increase rounds; total sts after raglan = 224; section sts = 56 each.
• XL: cast on 76 sts; work 21 raglan increase rounds; total sts after raglan = 244; section sts = 61 each.
• XXL: cast on 84 sts; work 22 raglan increase rounds; total sts after raglan = 260; section sts = 65 each.

Abbreviations

• k = knit
• p = purl
• k2tog = knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch (increase)
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off

Tech Notes for Beginners

• This is worked in the round from the top down so you can try it on as you go.
• I use kfb for the raglan increases because it’s easy for beginners; it creates a small bar that blends in with stockinette.
• Use stitch markers to mark the 4 raglan seams: front-left, left sleeve, back-left, right sleeve. The pattern shows exact placement.
• When sleeve sts are placed on holders, you’ll continue the body in the round only, then return to the sleeves later.
• Measure often rather than relying only on the pattern numbers — fit is everything.

Pattern: Step-by-step

1) Neckband & Yoke setup

1. Using smaller needle (US 7 / 4.5 mm) and long-tail provisional or regular cast-on, CO the number of sts for your size: 60 (64, 72, 76, 84). Join carefully being careful not to twist, place marker for beginning of round (BOR).
2. Work 2x2 rib (k2, p2) in the round for 1” / 2.5 cm (or 1.25” / 3 cm for a slightly wider collar).
3. Switch to main needles (US 8 / 5 mm) and start raglan shaping: place 3 more markers so you have 4 markers total dividing the round into 4 sections. Put a removable marker before BOR if you want a visual.

2) Raglan increases (yoke)

Work raglan increase rounds as follows: Knit to 1 st before next marker, kfb, sm, kfb (this adds 2 sts around each marker, and because there are 4 markers you add 8 sts per increase round). Between increase rounds, knit plain rounds (no increases) to make shaping gradual. For this pattern follow the specified number of increase rounds for your size (listed above).

1. Round structure (repeat until you reach the listed number of increase rounds):
2. Increase round: *k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, kfb*, repeat to end of round.
3. Next round (or rounds): knit all sts (this is the plain round). For these instructions increase on every other round (i.e., increase round, then knit one round, then increase round, etc.).

Work the increase rounds until total stitch count equals your size’s target (188, 208, 224, 244, 260). At that point you’ll have the raglan shaped and the stitches for sleeves are formed in their sections.

3) Separating sleeves & body

1. After the final increase round and one plain round, you will have the full stitch count. Divide as: (front section) + (left sleeve section) + (back section) + (right sleeve section) = total.
2. Slip sleeve section sts (the ones between the sleeve markers) onto scrap yarn or holders: for S this is 47 sts, M 52 sts, L 56 sts, XL 61 sts, XXL 65 sts per sleeve. Leave them on a holder, secure so they don’t stretch out.
3. Join the body: knit across front, back sections only (i.e., knit across front + back stitches), making sure the beginning of round marker remains correctly placed. You will now be working only the body sts in the round.

4) Body

1. Continue in stockinette (knit every round) until the body measures approx the desired length from underarm to hem: typically 18” (46 cm) from underarm for a pullover—but for this design continue to the total shoulder-to-hem length listed earlier: 26 (27, 28, 29, 30) in / 66 (69, 71, 74, 76) cm, minus the height of the yoke already worked. You will likely measure from the top to hem as you go. Try it on to check length; for an oversized look add 1”–2” if desired.
2. Finish hem with 2x2 rib: switch to smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm), work 2” / 5 cm of 2x2 rib, then BO loosely in rib pattern.

5) Sleeves

1. Transfer sleeve sts from holders back to your needles (US 8 / 5 mm). Join and pick up 2 extra sts under the arm if you want to avoid holes (pick up one in each gap and kfb into them on first round), or simply graft/close the gap later. If you picked up extra, maintain consistency on both sleeves.
2. Work in the round in stockinette for desired sleeve length measured from underarm to wrist: 18 (18.5, 19, 19.5, 20) in / 46 (47, 48, 49.5, 51) cm (adjust to taste). For a tapered sleeve you can decrease: decrease 8 sts evenly over the first few inches (optional). For beginner simplicity, keep sleeves straight.
3. Switch to smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm). Work 2x2 rib for 2” / 5 cm and BO loosely in rib.

6) Neck finishing

1. If you used a provisional cast-on at the neck, pick up the cast-on sts and graft or join to make a neat collar. Alternatively, you can work a picked-up neckband: using smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm) pick up and knit evenly around neckline (pick up 8 to 10 sts per inch depending on desired collar width and elasticity). Work 2x2 rib for 1”–2”, then BO loosely in rib.
2. For a very simple finish, fold the provisional cast-on inside and graft, or use kitchener stitch to join, or simply BO and sew down inside for a neat collar.

7) Finishing & Blocking

• Weave in ends with a tapestry needle.
• Block gently to measurements: soak the jumper in lukewarm water with wool wash, squeeze (do not wring), lay flat on towel, shape to measurements and pin if needed. Let dry completely.
• Check neck and underarm fit; do any small finishing tweaks (sew any small gaps underarm if present).

Helpful Tips for Beginners

• Work slowly through the first few increase rounds so your markers stay correctly placed. Count stitches after each increase round until you’re confident.
• If a kfb increase bar bothers you, try M1L/M1R once you feel confident — instructions for M1 are available in many video tutorials online.
• Use removable lifelines or scrap yarn before complicated steps so you can tidyly rip back if needed.

Troubleshooting

• If your yoke feels too tight, add more increase rounds until the split-to-sleeve count is comfortable; you can always continue increasing until desired underarm circumference.
• If gauge is off: change needle size. Recompute stitches per inch to figure final stitch targets (Desired chest inches x sts per inch = target total stitches, round to nearest multiple of 4 and plan increases as shown).

Support & Notes

If you need help with a pattern step or a stitch technique, reach out to the pattern author at team@verde.uk or visit https://purljam.verde.uk. Share your makes with the community: socials #purljam.

Enjoy knitting your oversized jumper — it’s forgiving, comfy, and a great first full-size garment project. Happy knitting!

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