Simple Seamless Top-Down Raglan

A clean, easy-to-customize seamless top-down raglan sweater intended for worsted-weight yarn. Worked in the round from the neck; raglan increases create the yoke, then sleeves are put on hold and the body is worked in the round. Sleeves are finished top-down after the body. Customizable sizing and clear math make it simple to adapt.

Finished measurements & ease

• XS: 34" (86 cm) finished chest (about 2" positive ease)
• S: 38" (97 cm)
• M: 42" (107 cm)
• L: 46" (117 cm)
• XL: 50" (127 cm)
• 2X: 54" (137 cm)

Gauge

20 sts = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette on larger needles (4.5 mm). Adjust needles to obtain correct gauge.

Yarn

Worsted weight / US 4 (Aran/Worsted). Typical skein: approx. 200–220 yds (183–201 m) per 100 g. Yardage by size (approx):

• XS: 800 yds (732 m) — ~4 skeins (200 yds/100 g) — ~400 g
• S: 900 yds (823 m) — ~5 skeins — ~450 g
• M: 1000 yds (915 m) — ~5 skeins — ~500 g
• L: 1100 yds (1006 m) — ~6 skeins — ~550 g
• XL: 1200 yds (1097 m) — ~6 skeins — ~600 g
• 2X: 1350 yds (1235 m) — ~7 skeins — ~675 g

Needles

Use long circulars for magic loop or appropriate length to work in the round, plus DPNs or small circulars for sleeves if you prefer.

• For ribbing (smaller): US 6 — UK old 8 — 4.0 mm
• For body (main fabric): US 7 — UK old 7 — 4.5 mm
• Optional larger needle for a looser drape: US 8 — UK old 6 — 5.0 mm

Notions

• Stitch markers x 4
• Tapestry needle
• Waste yarn or spare needle to hold sleeve stitches
• Optional stitch holders or waste yarn

Abbreviations

CO

Cast on

k

knit

p

purl

st(s)

stitch(es)

PM

Place marker

M1L

Make 1 left (lift strand from previous row, knit through back loop)

M1R

Make 1 right (lift strand from previous row, knit through front loop)

k2tog

knit 2 together

ssk

slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)

Neck & Yoke (worked in the round)

Notes: This pattern uses the identical raglan increase on 4 raglan lines (markers) so total stitches increase by 8 stitches per increase round. Increase sequence: Increase Round: M1L after the first raglan marker and M1R before the next raglan marker (i.e. 2 increases at each marker). Then work a plain round (no increases). Repeat the pair of rounds (increase round, plain round) until desired yoke depth or target stitch count is reached (instructions and a table below give guidelines).

Cast-on & set-up

Using smaller needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm) cast on:

• XS: CO 64
• S: CO 68
• M: CO 72
• L: CO 76
• XL: CO 80
• 2X: CO 84

Join carefully to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Work in 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) or desired neck finish. Switch to larger needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm) for the yoke unless you prefer a tighter neckline.

Place stitch markers to divide the round into 4 equal sections: Front, Sleeve, Back, Sleeve. Each section initially equals CO/4 sts (e.g., M: 72/4 = 18 sts).

Raglan increase rounds

Work as follows, in the round:

1. Increase round: *knit to 1 st before marker, M1R, slip marker, M1L, knit marker* repeat for each raglan marker. (This adds 2 stitches at each marker = +8 total stitches).
2. Work 1 round even (no increases).

Repeat these two rounds (one increase round + one plain round) until the yoke measures the desired depth from cast-on edge to underarm or until stitch counts meet target (table below). Keep the raglan markers in place throughout. Count increase rounds (the number of increase rounds = the number of times the increase round has been worked).

Approximate math & guideline table

Formula: Total stitches after N increase rounds = CO + 8*N. Each section (front / back / each sleeve) after N increase rounds = (CO/4) + 2*N.

Target finished chest (with ease) and suggested increase rounds to reach that width (approx):

• XS (CO 64): target ~170 sts — suggested 14 increase rounds — total ~176 sts
• S (CO 68): target ~190 sts — suggested 16 increase rounds — total ~196 sts
• M (CO 72): target ~210 sts — suggested 18 increase rounds — total ~216 sts
• L (CO 76): target ~230 sts — suggested 20 increase rounds — total ~236 sts
• XL (CO 80): target ~250 sts — suggested 22 increase rounds — total ~256 sts
• 2X (CO 84): target ~270 sts — suggested 24 increase rounds — total ~276 sts

These are starting points. Alternate method: measure yoke depth (from cast-on edge to underarm) and stop when it measures approximately: XS 8.5" / 21.5 cm, S 9" / 23 cm, M 9.5" / 24 cm, L 10" / 25.5 cm, XL 10.5" / 26.5 cm, 2X 11" / 28 cm. Blocking and yarn can change exact numbers — measure and decide.

Separating sleeves

When you decide the yoke depth is right, you'll separate sleeves from body.

1. Work the increase round and the following plain round (or finish on a plain round) so you finish at the end of a round between sections.
2. Slip sleeve stitches onto waste yarn or stitch holders (each sleeve section = (CO/4) + 2*N stitches; see table for counts). For example, M with 18 increase rounds: sleeve sts = 18 + 2*18 = 54 sts each sleeve.
3. Cast on underarm stitches to join the body: cast on 8 stitches total (4 under each armpit) using a stretchy cast-on or pick up and knit 8 sts across the gap (4 each side). You can adjust this number to taste (4–6 underarm stitches total per side is common). These underarm stitches will later be worked into sleeve caps or grafted.
4. Join the front and back together and continue working the body in the round on the body circular needle.

Body

Work even in stockinette (knit every round) until desired body length from underarm: typical lengths from underarm to hem are XS 15" /38 cm, S 16" /41 cm, M 17" /43 cm, L 18" /45.5 cm, XL 18.5" /47 cm, 2X 19" /48 cm (or your preferred length). Optionally shape with waist decreases or add pockets.

Finish hem: Work 1–2 inches / 2.5–5 cm of 1x1 rib (switch to smaller needles US 6 if desired) and bind off loosely in rib pattern.

Sleeves (worked top-down after body is completed)

Put the held sleeve stitches back on needles. Also pick up the underarm stitches you cast on when joining the body (if you cast on 8 underarm stitches, pick those up now to complete the sleeve circumference).

Work in the round in stockinette, decreasing for a tapered sleeve if desired. Typical sleeve shaping:

1. Place marker for beginning of round.
2. Work even for 1–2" / 2.5–5 cm if you want a little cap easing.
3. For tapered sleeves: decrease 8 stitches roundwise (4 decrease points) evenly every 6th round (or every 8th round for a subtle taper) until sleeve circumference at widest part equals your preferred wrist size times gauge plus ease. Example target at forearm: 8–12" circumference depending on personal fit; cuff should be smaller.

Common approach: decrease 1 stitch each decrease point (ssk or k2tog) every 6 rounds until you have about 28–36 sts remaining (adjust for your wrist circumference). Then work 1x1 rib for 1.5–2.5" and bind off loosely in rib.

Finishing

• Weave in ends.
• Graft or sew underarm stitches if you prefer a smoother join. If you left the underarm cast-on stitches in place, you can knit them into the sleeve when reattaching and then close the small gap with Kitchener if you desire.
• Block gently to measurements.

Customization notes

• To make it more relaxed, go up one needle size for the body.
• Want a deeper V at the yoke? Add short rows or stop increasing earlier and shape differently — this pattern keeps things simple and circular.
• To add waist shaping, work decreases/increases evenly around the body at desired positions after separating sleeves.

If you want specific numbers adjusted to your exact gauge or to swap to DK or bulky yarn, I can give a quick recalculation. For more details, patterns and tools, visit https://purljam.verde.uk. Support: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam

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