Skyblue & Yellow Checkerboard Scarf (Knit, Intarsia)

Bright, graphic 2-color checkerboard scarf worked in worsted weight yarn. Squares are crisp thanks to intarsia color changes; this version is sized for a long scarf but is easily adjusted by changing number of square repeats. Includes clear gauge/math so you can scale to a blanket or cushion.

Finished dimensions

• Width: approx 8" (20.5 cm)
• Length: approx 72" (183 cm) (includes garter-end borders)
• Square size: 2" x 2" (5 cm x 5 cm)

Yarn

• Worsted weight / Aran (Category 4)
• Skyblue: approx 300 yards (274 meters)
• Yellow: approx 300 yards (274 meters)
• Suggested skein: 100 g = ~200–220 yards (183–201 m) — you will need ~1.5 skeins of each color depending on exact yardage; buy a touch extra for weaving ends.

Needles

• US: 8
• UK (old): 6
• Metric: 5.0 mm
• Alternate needle sizes for gauge adjustment: US 7 (4.5 mm) / UK (old) 7 / 4.5 mm; or US 9 (5.5 mm) / UK (old) 5 / 5.5 mm
• Use 24"/60 cm circular needle if you prefer to hold all sts; pattern is worked back-and-forth so circular needle is used as straight.

Notions

• Tapestry needle for weaving ends
• Many small bobbins or short lengths of scrap yarn (for intarsia), or small balls you wind as you go
• Scissors, blocking pins

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette Stitch after blocking, measured over a large swatch. If your gauge differs, change needle size to match.

Abbreviations

k

knit

p

purl

st(s)

stitch(es)

RS

right side

WS

wrong side

BO

bind off

CO

cast on

intarsia twist

bring new color up under old color between the two stitches to avoid a hole

Pattern math (how this was calculated)

• Gauge: 18 sts = 4" → 4"/18 sts = 0.222" per st
• Square width target: 2" → stitches per square = 18*(2/4) = 9 sts
• Square height target: 2" → rows per square = 24*(2/4) = 12 rows
• Width chosen: 4 squares across → 4 x 9 sts = 36 sts cast on (gives ~8" width)
• Length chosen: 36 squares down → 36 x 12 rows = 432 rows (432 rows at 24 rows/4" = 72" length)

Special notes & tips

• This pattern uses intarsia: one bobbin per discrete block of color in a row. For a 4-square width you will need up to 4 short yarn sources per color across the row, but you can re-use bobbins as you move up the scarf. Wind small balls for each square if you prefer not to use multiple bobbins.
• When you change color between two stitches, always twist the two yarns once (bring new color under old color) so there is no hole at the color join.
• Leave tails around 6–8" (15–20 cm) when adding a new bobbin to make weaving in easier.
• Slip first stitch of every row knitwise and knit last stitch (or knit both first and last stitch) to create a neat selvedge.

Instructions

Notes: Color A = Skyblue, Color B = Yellow. Work with RS facing on right-side rows.

Cast on & border

1. CO 36 sts with Color A (long-tail cast on).
2. Work 12 rows garter (knit every row) in Color A for a neat short end border; you may choose 8–12 rows depending on preference.

Checkerboard body (intarsia)

Setup values:

• Stitches per square (W) = 9 sts
• Rows per square (H) = 12 rows
• Squares across = 4 (columns numbered 1–4 left to right)

Pattern logic: Band = a horizontal stripe of H rows (12 rows). Bands alternate color pattern across columns:

• If Band number is odd: columns = A B A B
• If Band number is even: columns = B A B A

Each band consists of H rows worked in the same sequence of color blocks across; you will switch colors at column boundaries each row. After you finish H rows, switch the leftmost color for the next band so the columns alternate vertically.

Detailed method for one band:

1. Prepare four bobbins/balls (or reuse as you go): one for each column that needs that color in the current band. For example, Band 1 (odd) columns 1 and 3 use Color A; columns 2 and 4 use Color B. You can wind two small balls of Color A and two small balls of Color B (one small ball per square) to make intarsia tidy.
2. Row 1 of band (RS): Slip first stitch knitwise for selvedge. Work columns left to right: For column 1 (9 sts) knit in Color A; at end of that 9th stitch, bring Color B up under Color A (twist) and continue knit 9 sts in Color B for column 2; twist to Color A, knit 9 sts; twist to Color B, knit final 9 sts. Slip last st if you prefer or knit last st for neat edge.
3. Row 2 (WS): Slip first stitch knitwise for selvedge. Purl back across keeping the same color sections: purl 9 sts with the color that was used for that column, maintaining floats only within that column. At each color change purlwise, twist the yarns to eliminate holes (bring new color up under old color). Repeat to the end of the row.
4. Rows 3–12: Repeat Rows 1–2 pattern for the remaining rows of the band (i.e., across each row keep columns the same colors for all H rows). Each row you will knit across with the appropriate color for each 9-st block, twisting at each join. After H rows the band is complete.

After completing one band, change the left-right color sequence for the next band: if the previous was A B A B, make the next B A B A. Continue alternating bands until you have completed 36 bands (36 squares tall) or until your scarf reaches the desired length.

Example: First 2 bands (12 rows each)

Band 1 (rows 1–12): columns = A B A B

Band 2 (rows 13–24): columns = B A B A

Repeat these two-band pairs down the length of the scarf.

Finishing

1. After your final band, work 12 rows garter in the color of your choice for a matching garter border.
2. BO loosely in pattern (knit the knit sts, purl the purl sts as working row if doing a few garter rows then BO knitwise on next RS row works fine).
3. Weave in ends: because intarsia creates many short yarn ends at the column joins, thread each tail through a tapestry needle and weave through the last few stitches worked in that column (run the tail back into the body of that square for about 1–2" / 2.5–5 cm). Trim carefully.
4. Block lightly to even stitches and square the checkerboard. Pin to measurements if needed and steam or wet-block according to yarn fiber.

Variations & scaling

• To make wider: increase number of squares across in multiples of 9 sts. Example: 6 squares across = 54 sts cast on.
• To make larger squares: change square size math. For 3" squares, calculate stitches = 18*(3/4)=13.5 → round to nearest stitch multiple you prefer and swatch to adjust gauge. Keep rows per square proportional.
• Mosaic alternative: If you prefer not to manage many bobbins, convert to mosaic/slip-stitch technique where you work only one color per row and slip stitches to form the checker effect. That conversion requires rewriting the stitch-by-stitch plan; contact support if you want a mosaic version.

Troubleshooting

• Holes at color joins: always twist yarns once when changing color to close gaps.
• Too many tails: keep tails long enough to weave in securely, or carry short intarsia ribs of 6–8" and weave as you go.
• Edges curling: add a 3–6 stitch garter selvedge (knit first 3 and last 3 sts of every row) if you want flat edges without blocking.

Notes

This pattern is intentionally modular: change number of squares, square size or yarn weight and use the math section to re-calculate. Intarsia gives crisp color blocks but requires some management of yarn sources; for an easier build, consider tapestry crochet or mosaic knitting (see variations above).

Pattern created for PurlJam.

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