Sleeveless Cabled Hooded Bolero/Shrug with Single Button

Designer notes: cropped, sleeveless bolero with mirrored cable panels on each front, a gently shaped back, and a cozy hood. Worked flat from the bottom up with set-in armhole shaping and a picked-up hood. Single button closure at high chest with a small button loop. Sized for multiple busts; adjustable length.

Finished measurements

• Approx. bust/over-chest circumference (finished, measured flat at bottom edge before seaming): XS 36 in / 91 cm, S 40 in / 102 cm, M 44 in / 112 cm, L 48 in / 122 cm, XL 52 in / 132 cm, XXL 56 in / 142 cm.
• Back length from lower edge to base of hood: XS 10 in / 25.5 cm, S 10.5 in / 27 cm, M 11 in / 28 cm, L 11.5 in / 29.5 cm, XL 12 in / 30.5 cm, XXL 12.5 in / 31.5 cm.
• Shoulder to armhole depth (approx): 7.5 in / 19 cm (all sizes).
• Hood depth (front edge to center back seam): 11 in / 28 cm.
• Button placement: about 4 in / 10 cm down from base of hood center front (adjust to taste).

Yarn

Recommended: worsted/aran weight yarn (4/Worsted - US; Aran - UK). Example gauge yarn: 200 yards / 183 m per 100 g (approx).

• Yardage by size (using 100 g / 200 yd skeins): XS 600 yd / 550 m (3 skeins), S 800 yd / 730 m (4 skeins), M 800 yd / 730 m (4 skeins), L 1000 yd / 915 m (5 skeins), XL 1000 yd / 915 m (5 skeins), XXL 1200 yd / 1100 m (6 skeins).
• Fiber note: wool, wool blends, or acrylic with good memory recommended for cables.

Needles and notions

• Main needles: US 8 (5.0 mm, UK 6) 32 in / 80 cm circular or size to obtain gauge. Alternate for rib/band: US 7 (4.5 mm, UK 7).
• Optional: smaller needle for ribbing: US 7 (4.5 mm, UK 7, 4.5 mm).
• Cable needle: US 6 (4.0 mm, UK 8) or any cable needle.
• Lengths: use 16 in/40 cm and 24 in/60 cm circulars as needed for small circumference work; 32 in/80 cm for larger sizes or magic loop.
• Notions: tapestry needle, stitch holders or waste yarn, 1 button 20–25 mm (3/4–1 in), scrap yarn or lock stitch marker for center stitch, markers, measuring tape.

Needle size reference (US – UK (old) – Metric)

• US 7 – UK 7 – 4.5 mm
• US 8 – UK 6 – 5.0 mm
• US 6 – UK 8 – 4.0 mm (cable needle)

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in cable pattern on US 8 / 5.0 mm needles, blocked. Make a swatch and adjust needle size to obtain gauge.

Construction notes

Worked flat in pieces: Back (one piece), Left Front, Right Front (mirrored), Hood (worked flat and seamed down center back), Bands (button band is worked as part of front edge ribs or picked up and knit). Cable panels run vertically on each front and continue into the hood center if desired. Armholes are bound off and edges finished with a neat ribbed band or sewn hem.

Abbreviations (US terms shown with UK equivalent)

• k = knit (k)
• p = purl (p)
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• yo = yarn over
• k2tog = knit 2 together (k2tog)
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (ssk) – sl1, sl1, k2tog through back loops (UK: ssp)
• c4f = cable 4 front: slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front, k2, then k2 from cable needle
• c4b = cable 4 back: slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back, k2, then k2 from cable needle
• pm = place marker
• rm = remove marker
• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on

Pattern stitch (placement)

Each front has a 12-st cable panel centered on the front piece edge (6-st cable motif mirrored). Panel schematic (12 sts wide) worked over a multiple of 12 sts + edge stitches.

Cable panel (12 sts) - 8-row repeat

Row 1 (RS): k3, c4f, k5
Row 2 (WS): purl across
Row 3: k3, k4, k5
Row 4: p across
Row 5: k3, c4b, k5
Row 6: p across
Row 7: k3, k4, k5
Row 8: p across
Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern.

Notes: the "k3" edges can sit next to a seed/rib edge or a moss stitch to prevent curling. If you want more pronounced cables, increase cable crossings frequency or widen cable panel.

Sizes and stitch counts

Stitch counts below assume a one-piece back and two fronts worked separately and seamed at shoulders. Edge stitches include 3-st garter or rib border on bottom edge if desired. Adjust counts to match your gauge and desired ease.

• XS: Back cast on 64 sts. Front panels each cast on 34 sts (includes 12-st cable + edge rib). Total across when seamed: 132 sts (approx. 36 in finished).
• S: Back CO 72 sts. Fronts 38 sts each.
• M: Back CO 80 sts. Fronts 42 sts each.
• L: Back CO 88 sts. Fronts 46 sts each.
• XL: Back CO 96 sts. Fronts 50 sts each.
• XXL: Back CO 104 sts. Fronts 54 sts each.

Detailed instructions

Back

1. Using larger needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm) CO back sts for your size (see counts above). Work bottom edge: k1, p1 rib for 1 in / 2.5 cm using smaller needle if you prefer a firmer edge, else begin in pattern immediately.
2. Work in stockinette (RS knit) with 3 sts garter edge at each end (or 1x1 rib) until back measures approx. desired length to armhole (see Finished measurements). For example, XS: work until 7.5 in / 19 cm from bottom edge.
3. Armhole shaping: BO 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows (total 6 sts). Then dec 1 st at each end every RS row 2 times (k2tog at beg of row, ssk at end of row) to shape shoulders if you want slightly tapered shoulders. Continue until armhole depth measures approx 7.5 in / 19 cm from bottom edge.
4. Continue straight across remaining sts until back height to base of hood is reached (see finished length). Place remaining center-stitch markers to locate hood pickup position. Bind off all sts loosely.

Left Front (work right-to-left facing)

1. CO front sts for your size. Set up 3-st garter or 1x1 rib at the outer edge (side seam) and reserve 3 sts for button band edge at center front if you plan to knit the button band later; alternatively incorporate the band into the front by slipping first stitch of every WS row.
2. Establish cable panel 12 sts placed toward center front: edge ribs (3 sts), stockinette panel between edge and cable as desired. Example layout XS 34 sts: edge 3 sts, stockinette 7 sts, cable 12 sts, stockinette 12 sts (adjust to counts above).
3. Work body in pattern (cable repeat worked across cable panel, stockinette elsewhere) until front reaches same length as back to armhole. Maintain 3-st garter/rib border at outer edge.
4. Armhole shaping: At armhole edge (outer edge), BO 3 sts, then dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 2 times (or as needed to match back shaping). Continue until armhole depth matches back. DO NOT BO at center front edge; keep center front stitches live for button band if preferred or bind off later.
5. Work to same height as back and bind off remaining stitches at shoulder edge loosely to allow seaming to back.

Right Front (mirror)

Work as for Left Front, reversing shaping and cable mirror (use c4b where left used c4f on the same row to produce mirror image of cable). Leave center front stitches live for band or bind off if you prefer to add a separate band later.

Seaming shoulders

1. With RS facing, seam back to fronts at shoulder points using mattress stitch to make an invisible join. Leave neck opening for hood pickup clear and even.

Hood

1. With RS facing and using larger needles, pick up and knit across the neckline: pick up approximately 2 sts for every 3 rows along neck edge (adjust so the total picked-up stitches is divisible by the cable repeat if you want a center cable). Alternatively, CO the number of sts indicated by your neck-width measurement: XS ~ 60 sts, S ~ 64 sts, M ~ 68 sts, L ~ 72 sts, XL ~ 76 sts, XXL ~ 80 sts.
2. Work flat in rows: if you want the vertical cable to run down the center of the hood, establish the cable panel centered within these sts (e.g., 12-st cable centered; remaining sts divided evenly on either side as stockinette or reverse stockinette). Work in cable pattern, following 8-row repeat, continuing until hood depth measures approx. 11 in / 28 cm from cast-on edge (try on to adjust for face allowance).
3. Decrease to shape crown: On RS rows, dec 1 st at each side of hood (ssk near side edge and k2tog near other) every 6 rows until about 18-24 sts remain (depends on size). Then decrease more quickly every RS row until 8 sts remain. Break yarn and thread through remaining sts, pull tight and secure. Alternatively, align hood center back seams and seam to close crown without additional decreases.
4. Fold hood along center and seam center back using mattress stitch; weave in ends.

Button band & button loop

1. If you left center-front stitches live: with smaller needles, pick up and work a 1x1 rib or garter band across the center-front edges and around hood opening if desired, for a firm edge. Work in rib for 1 in / 2.5 cm, then BO loosely. Attach button at desired placement.
2. Button loop: make a small I-cord loop (approx 1.5–2 in / 4–5 cm) using 3-4 sts on small needles, or crochet a small chain loop. Sew loop securely to opposite front edge. Ensure loop placement matches button size and placement.

Armhole finishing

1. Pick up sts around each armhole and knit a small rib band 1/2–1 in / 1.5–2.5 cm or single crocheted edge. BO loosely and block.

Assembly and finishing

• Block all pieces gently to measurements to even stitches and open cables.
• Sew shoulder seams, center-back hood seam, and any front-to-shoulder seams using mattress stitch.
• Weave in all ends. Sew on button and button loop.
• Final blocking: pin edges flat and steam or wet-block as appropriate for yarn fiber. Shape hood opening and button band edges to lie flat.

Customization tips

• Adjust overall length by adding or subtracting repeats before armhole shaping.
• Make hood deeper by working extra rows in hood before crown decreases.
• For a chunkier look, use a heavier yarn and larger needles; rework gauge and yardage.
• Add full sleeves by picking up around armholes and knitting tubular sleeves, or sew in set-in sleeves for a cardigan conversion.

Care

Care depends on yarn fiber: generally handwash cool for wool, lay flat to dry; follow yarn manufacturer instructions.

Support and credits

Pattern created for PurlJam. For questions or support: email team@verde.uk. Visit https://purljam.verde.uk and follow #purljam on socials.

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