Small Black Cone/Diamond Owl Nose (Beak) — Crochet/Amigurumi Pattern

This tiny beak works as either a small 3D cone (round beak) or flattened into a diamond-shaped nose for an owl toy. Designed for firm stitches so it keeps its point. Finished size: approx 0.6 in (1.5 cm) tall x 0.4 in (1.0 cm) wide; gauge is not critical but use a hook smaller than suggested for a tight fabric.

Materials

• Yarn: Small amount of black smooth yarn. Recommended weights: Sport/DK or Worsted depending on preferred firmness.
  Yarn amount (approx): 2–5 yards (2–4.5 m) — about 1–2 g (0.04–0.07 oz).
• Hook / Needle sizes (pick one set):
  Crochet (recommended): US G/6 (4.0 mm) — UK (old) approx 8 — Metric 4.0 mm. Use a 3.5–4.0 mm hook to make a very tight fabric for tiny noses.
  Optional knitting (flat diamond): Double-point or small needles US 2–4 (2.75–5.0 mm) — UK (old) approx 13–7 — Metric 2.75–5.0 mm.
• Stuffing: tiny pinch of polyester fill or embroidery floss to keep point firm.
• Tapestry/darning needle for weaving in and sewing.
• Matching sewing thread for secure stitching or a few drops of fabric glue (optional) for safety if used on toys for small children.

Abbreviations (US terms then UK equivalent)

• MR = Magic Ring
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet (UK: dc)
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (decrease)
• inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• sl st = slip stitch

Option A — Small 3D Cone Beak (crochet)—Firm, pointy beak

Notes: Work in continuous rounds (spiral) unless you prefer joined rounds. Count stitches at the end of each round. Use a hook that gives a tight fabric so stuffing does not show through.

1. MR, 4 sc into ring (4)
2. Round 2: inc in each st around (8)
3. Round 3: sc around (8)
4. Round 4: (inc, sc) x4 (12)
5. Round 5: sc around (12)
6. Round 6: (sc2tog, sc) x4 — 4 decreases, 4 sc = 8 total (8)
7. Round 7: sc2tog around (4) — fold and close tip: leave last round unworked for now

Finishing (cone):

1. Lightly stuff the cone with a tiny pinch of fiberfill. You only need enough to firm the tip; overstuffing will distort the diamond shaping.
2. Use tapestry needle to thread yarn through the 4 sts left and pull tight to close. Fasten off and weave in tail securely to the inside.
3. To make the cone into a diamond-shaped nose: pinch the cone so the base becomes a flattened diamond. Fold the cone longitudinally so two opposite sides meet and the tip becomes a sharp point. Using the tail or a new length of yarn, whip-stitch from the base toward the tip along each flattened face to create a flat front and back — this will form the diamond profile. Anchor stitches securely and weave in ends.

Option B — Flat Diamond (crochet, if you prefer to start flat)

1. Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (4 sts), turn.
2. Row 2: ch1, sc inc at first st, sc across to last st, sc inc at last st (6 sts).
3. Row 3: ch1, sc across. Repeat increases at edges until your widest row has 8–12 sc depending on desired width, then decrease symmetrically to close to a point (sc2tog at edges). Fasten off and leave long tail for sewing. Block lightly if needed.

Finishing (flat diamond):

1. Lightly fold edge-to-edge to create a ridge down the center if desired and mattress-stitch closed to keep a slight 3D profile. Alternatively, leave completely flat and sew between eye placement as a stylized beak.

Shaping Tips

• For the classic owl nose (short, triangular diamond), after creating the cone and flattening, stitch a short line of running stitches down the center front to emphasize the keel of the beak.
• Work with smooth worsted or DK yarn for clean lines; fuzzy yarn will hide the shape.
• If you need a sharper point, use a smaller hook (decrease 0.25–0.5 mm) or add a drop of fabric glue inside the tip to stiffen after stuffing.

Sewing onto Toy / Placement

1. Position the beak centerline equidistant between the eyes. Typical placement: just below the bottom of the eye circles by about 1–2 mm depending on scale. Mark placement with a removable marker or pins.
2. Thread tail (or matching sewing thread) through tapestry needle and ladder-stitch through the toy muzzle, catching the beak base evenly around the open edge. Pull stitches snug but do not distort the beak shape.
3. Secure with multiple passes and knot inside the head. Weave ends into the toy body. For toys meant for small children, additionally tack with a drop of fabric glue and/or sew a small felt backing behind the head for reinforcement.

Variations

• Smaller/pointier: Begin with MR 3 and follow increases as 3–6–9 then decrease to 3 for a micro-beak.
• Larger/broader: Start MR 6 and increase proportionally (6–12–18) to get a wider beak.
• Embroider a vertical seam line with a satin stitch to simulate a beak ridge.

Safety & Care

• Because this is a small part, secure stitching is essential if the toy may be handled by children under 3. Consider gluing and adding a felt backing for reinforcement.
• Hand wash toys with delicate items; air dry. Spot-cleaning is usually sufficient for small stains.

Troubleshooting

• Holey fabric: switch to a smaller hook, or use a denser yarn.
• Bulbous tip: reduce stuffing and use fewer increase rounds or use a tighter tension.

If you want a customized size or a knit-specific flat diamond pattern, reply with the finished dimensions you’re aiming for and whether you’d like it worked in knit rather than crochet, and I’ll give you a tailored row-by-row version.

Pattern created for PurlJam. For help: purljam.verde.uk. Support: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam

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