Sophia Scarf — Knit Pattern

Light, modern textured scarf with a simple eyelet-and-twist repeat and a soft garter selvedge. Worked flat in one size with easy-to-memorize 16-row repeat. Calm, wearable, and perfect for practicing a few shaping and finishing techniques.

Finished measurements

Width: 8” (20 cm)
Length: 66” (168 cm) before blocking; 62” (157 cm) after gentle blocking (your length may vary; adjust yarn amount to lengthen/shorten)

Yarn

Worsted weight (US 4 / UK 10 / Aran light) recommended: approx 300 yards (274 m) / 275 yards (251 m) of worsted. Alternative: DK weight (US 3 / UK 11) use 350–375 yards (320–346 m).
Example: 100 g / approx 200–320 yd (183–200 m) skeins — you'll need 1.5 skeins (approx 300 yds / 274 m) of typical worsted; check your yarn label and total yardage.

Needles

Main: US 8 (5.0 mm) — UK (old) 6 — 5.0 mm
Optional: US 7 (4.5 mm) — UK (old) 7 — 4.5 mm (for firmer fabric)
Optional: US 9 (5.5 mm) — UK (old) 5 — 5.5 mm (for looser drape)
Use a straight or circular needle long enough to comfortably hold your stitches (32–34” / 80–85 cm recommended).

Notions

Tapestry needle for weaving ends
Stitch markers (optional, 1 marker to mark pattern repeat)
Blocking tools: pins, mat

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rows = 4” (10 cm) in pattern using US 8 (5.0 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to meet gauge.

Abbreviations (US)

K: knit
P: purl
YO: yarn over
K2tog: knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
SSK: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) — slip 1 knitwise, slip next knitwise, insert left needle into fronts of slipped sts and knit together
SKP: slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (centered decrease)
St(s): stitch(es)
Patt: pattern

Notes

Scarf is worked flat; rows are worked back and forth.
There are 6-st garter selvedge edges (3 sts at each side). These selvedge stitches are slipped on every RS row and purled on every WS row to create a neat edge; they are included in stitch counts below.
Pattern repeat is 12 sts wide + selvedge stitches. You may lengthen the scarf by repeating the 16-row pattern more times.

Cast on

Cast on 50 sts using your preferred method.

Breakdown: 6 sts garter selvedge (3 sts at each edge) + 44 sts main body (12-st repeat x 3 + 8 extra to center transitions).

Edge setup

Row 1 (RS): Slip 3 as if to purl (selvedge), K across to last 3 sts, slip 3 as if to purl. Row 2 (WS): Slip 3 as if to purl, P across to last 3 sts, P3 (selvedge).

Main pattern (16-row repeat)

Work Rows 1–16 and repeat for length. Keep the 3-st garter selvedge at each side as instructed.

Row 1 (RS): Slip 3, *K2, YO, K2, SSK, K6* (repeat from * to * across until final 8 sts of body), K2, YO, K2, SKP, slip 3.
Row 2 (WS): Slip 3, Purl across to last 3 sts, P3.
Row 3: Slip 3, *K2, K2tog, K4, YO, K2* , K2, K2tog, K4, SKP, slip 3.
Row 4: Slip 3, P across, P3.
Row 5: Slip 3, *K3, YO, K2, SSK, K5* , K3, YO, K2, SKP, slip 3.
Row 6: Slip 3, P across, P3.
Row 7: Slip 3, *K3, K2tog, K3, YO, K2* , K3, K2tog, K3, SKP, slip 3.
Row 8: Slip 3, P across, P3.
Row 9: Slip 3, *K2, YO, K2, SSK, K6* , K2, YO, K2, SKP, slip 3. (same as Row 1)
Row 10: Slip 3, P across, P3.
Row 11: Slip 3, *K2, K2tog, K4, YO, K2* , K2, K2tog, K4, SKP, slip 3. (same as Row 3)
Row 12: Slip 3, P across, P3.
Row 13: Slip 3, *K3, YO, K2, SSK, K5* , K3, YO, K2, SKP, slip 3. (same as Row 5)
Row 14: Slip 3, P across, P3.
Row 15: Slip 3, *K3, K2tog, K3, YO, K2* , K3, K2tog, K3, SKP, slip 3. (same as Row 7)
Row 16: Slip 3, P across, P3.

Notes on reading the written rows: The stars mark the 12-st body repeat. Because the cast-on includes 44 sts for the body, you'll have three full repeats plus the transitional extra 8 sts worked as written.

Pattern flow

Work Rows 1–16 until length measures approx 64–66” (162–168 cm) or your desired length, ending after Row 16 (or any row in the repeat you prefer).
Work Edge finish: Repeat the Edge setup rows 1–2 two more times if you want a thicker garter edge, otherwise proceed to bind off.

Bind off

Bind off loosely in pattern: With RS facing, slip first 3 sts (selvedge), *K2, bind off next st purlwise or knitwise to preserve texture* across body, finish by binding off last 3 sts and leaving a long tail to sew if needed. Alternatively, use a stretchy bind-off such as Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off for a soft edge.

Finishing

Weave in ends with tapestry needle.
Blocking: Wet-block gently. Pin to desired measurements, stretching lightly to open eyelets and align twisted stitches. Use rust-proof pins and a blocking mat. Let dry fully. Suggested blocked measurements: 8” wide x 62–66” long (20 x 157–168 cm).
Optional: Add tassels or fringe: cut pieces 6–7” long (15–18 cm before folding), attach in groups along short ends for a modern finish. Attach evenly spaced to maintain clean look.

Customization

Make it wider: cast on more body repeats (add multiples of 12 sts) keeping the same 3+3 garter edges.
Make it longer: work more pattern repeats. Estimate 2 pattern repeats ≈ 8” of length depending on yarn/needle.
Use DK yarn with smaller needles for a lighter airy scarf; proportionally increase yardage.

Troubleshooting & tips

Eyelet errors: If you miss a YO, drop back to fix carefully or make a small bar by lifting the strand between needles and twisting to create a YO substitute.
Twisted decreases: SSK and SKP create left-leaning and centered decreases; practice these on a sample to keep the twist clean.
Garter selvedge: slipping as if to purl on RS rows keeps a tidy, slightly raised edge for neat seaming or fringe placement.

Abbreviated row-by-row for advanced knitters

RS rows alternate textured eyelet/twist sequences; WS rows are purl across (with selvedge purls). Keep 16-row memory repeat or write a small note to follow along.

Care

Handwash or machine wash gentle (follow yarn label). Lay flat to dry to preserve shape and drape.

Support & Credits

Pattern by PurlJam. For help: team@verde.uk. Pattern hosted at https://purljam.verde.uk. Share your knit with #purljam on socials.

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