Advanced Standing Dragon Plush (US terms)

Size: about 20–24" (50–61 cm) tall when standing (depends on stuffing and tension). This is an advanced amigurumi-style pattern: working in-the-round, shaping, surface stitches, ribs, wired shaping optional, and detailed assembly for a highly expressive dragon with a ribbed belly, large membraned wings, curved horns, long snout, eyebrows, and a long tail.

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted weight (#4) main color A (body) — 600–800 yds / 550–730 m (approx 3–4 skeins, 100 g skeins vary). Contrast B (belly/ribbing) — 150–200 yds / 140–180 m. Accent C (horns, spines) — 50–100 yds / 45–90 m.
• Hook: Recommended US E/4 (3.5 mm) — UK (old) 10 — Metric 3.5 mm. Tighter option for dense plush: US D/3 (3.25 mm) — UK 11 — 3.25 mm. Very small details: US C/2 (2.75 mm) — UK 12 — 2.75 mm.
• Fiberfill (polyfill), polyester stuffing; small amount fleece or scrap yarn for nose shaping if desired.
• Sewing/tapestry needle, thread to match yarn, pins or locking stitch markers, scissors.
• Safety eyes 12–16 mm (or embroider eyes for child-safe toy). Black embroidery floss for pupils, light color for highlights. Felt or fabric optional for internal nose reinforcement.
• Optional: 18–22 gauge craft wire (for horns, tail, wing leading edge). Hot glue or fabric glue for reinforcement of wire in horns if desired (NOT for children's toys unless fully enclosed).
• Optional: pipe cleaners for spike supports, stuffing sticks or blunt knitting needle for stuffing placement.

Gauge & Notes

Gauge: 14 sc x 16 rows = 4" (10 cm) in spiral with 3.5 mm hook. Gauge is for reference; gauge affects finished size. Use slightly smaller hook than recommended for your yarn if you want very tight stitches and less visible stuffing.

Pattern is written in US terms. Work in continuous spirals unless instructed to join. Use stitch markers to mark round starts. Stuff firmly but not overstuffed to allow shaping.

Abbreviations (US)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• inc = 2 sc in same st (increase)
• dec = single crochet decrease (invisible or sc2tog)
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• fp = front post, bp = back post (as noted)
• Rnd = round

Construction Overview

Work body and head as one continuous piece (joined at neck) so the dragon stands naturally. Legs are worked in and slightly flattened for a stable base; feet are weighted with coins or washers if toy is display only. Arms and wings are made separately and sewn on. Belly is ribbed using BLO ridges worked across the center front and sewn into the body opening. Horns are crocheted as long tapered cones, steamed/blocked and optionally wired then curved. Membranes are worked as triangular panels with chain-mesh and edged, then attached to wing bones. Snout is long and tapered with shaped increases/decreases and optional internal shaping with soft stuffing or shaping wire. Eyebrows are crocheted or embroidered ridges to give expression.

Body & Head (worked top-down, in one piece)

Start in color A.

1. Rnd 1: magic ring, 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around (42)
8. Rnds 8–14: sc around (42) — creates top of head. Place marker at the first st of Rnd 8; when you reach the spot for eyes, count rounds to place eye sockets on Rnd 10 or 11 for a long snout effect.

Eye placement: fasten on safety eyes between Rnds 9–11, about 8–10 sts apart depending on desired expression. If embroidering eyes, mark same positions.

9. Begin snout shaping: Rnd 15: (sc 6, inc) around (49) — increase across the face region to elongate snout base.
10. Rnds 16–20: sc around (49). At Rnd 18–19 begin forming the nostril shaping by 2 tiny slanted decreases on either side later (see shaping notes below).
11. Rnds 21–26: work decreases gradually toward a long tapered snout: dec every 6–8 sts evenly across each round until you reach approx 30–36 sts total; stuff lightly as you go. For a long snout, maintain increases length (work more rounds before decreasing).
12. At desired snout length, decrease to 18–24 sts, insert firm stuffing, and finish with rounds of dec to close. Leave long tail of yarn for sewing to head if you worked head and snout separately; if continuous, continue to neck shaping next.

Snout detail (nostrils & ridge): Before closing snout, embroider two small oval nostrils with darker yarn at the tip base. For a raised ridge, surface slip stitch 1–2 rows along the top of the snout or use a 2-row cordicella created with slip stitches to form a dorsal nasal ridge.

Neck & Body

1. From base of head, increase evenly to create neck girth: Rnd: inc every 6th st until reaching 48–54 sts depending on desired torso size.
2. Rnds: sc around for 10–14 rounds forming neck and upper torso.
3. Leg placement: mark leg positions on Rnd where you want feet to begin. For stability the front of the dragon stands on two back legs; we recommend legs begin around Rnd 28–30 of the full body to give upright posture.

Legs & Feet (make 2)

Work in color A. Attach at marked positions by joining and crocheting in the round or sew on later.

1. Rnd 1: magic ring, 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 2, inc) around (16)
4. Rnds 4–10: sc around (16) — lengthen to desired leg height.
5. Foot (flatten and shape): Rnd 11: sc 8 along front half, turn, sc back along bottom to create flat base, then around the edge work a round of hdc to finish a rounded foot shape. Optionally insert small flat washer/coin before closing and encase in stuffing to weight the foot. Repeat for second leg.
6. Sew legs into body openings if worked separately, ensuring spacing for a stable standing position. Plant feet flatter and slightly angled outward for balance.

Arms (make 2)

1. Rnd 1: magic ring, 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnds 3–8: sc around (12) — shorten or lengthen for stuffed arm length. Stuff lightly, leave long tail for sewing and attach to upper torso.

Belly (ribbed) - Color B

Create a separate rectangular rib panel then sew to the body opening from lower chest to under-tail. This allows clear ribbing detail and a neat seam.

1. Ch 26 (or adjust width to fit torso circumference). Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (25). Row 2: ch 1, BLO sc across (25). Repeat Row 2 until panel length equals torso front (~12–16" / 30–40 cm depending on size). This BLO technique creates ridges resembling ribs. End with a neat edge row of sc all around. Block gently if needed.
2. Optional: work thin horizontal tucks by sewing in rows of mattress stitch at regular intervals across the panel to exaggerate ribbed look.
3. Sew belly panel centered on body front with whipstitch, stretching slightly as you go to curve the panel and create a snug ribbed belly look. Stuff belly slightly through openings before closing if you left an opening for stuffing.

Wings (make 2 large wings)

Each wing consists of a bone (rib) structure crocheted in tubes and a membrane panel worked as a mesh then edged. Use contrasting lighter weight yarn for membrane if desired.

Wing bones (3–4 per wing)

1. Using color A, ch 16. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across (15). Work 12–15 rows to create a tapered tube. Fold tube in half and sc through both layers to make a firm bone. Optionally insert wire along the length before closing to make a poseable wing bone. Make 3 bones for inner, mid, outer.

Membrane panel

1. Ch 40 (width will determine wing span). Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across. Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc across; Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in each dc. Repeat alternate sc and dc rows to create a lightweight fabric for membrane, about 20–24 rows, tapering each successive row at the outer edge by 1–2 sts to form triangular wing shape.
2. Edging: sc around the membrane panel, making picot points at tapered points if desired to look like scalloped membranes. Sew or weave each bone along the membrane lines: align bones at even spacing, sew securely through both membrane and along bone tube. Reinforce base where wing meets body with extra rows of sc and a small inner pocket to slip wing base into the body seam for secure attachment.

Wing Attachment

Sew wings to back sides of the torso where shoulder blades would sit. Secure heavy stitching through the wing base and several rounds into the body to hold weight. If using wire, bury the wire ends inside the body and wrap them in yarn to prevent poking out.

Horns (make 2)

Using color C or A depending on look. Work with smaller hook for tighter fabric.

1. Rnd 1: magic ring, 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: (sc, inc) around (9)
3. Rnds 3–6: sc around, decreasing by 1 st every other round to create taper. Add stuffing gradually. For curve: after stuffing, bend gently and add a line of running stitches along the inner curve to hold shape. Optionally insert craft wire for a curved horn: thread wire through center prior to final closure and bend into desired curve.
4. Finish by sewing horns to head above eyebrows and secure with hidden stitches down into crown.

Eyebrows & Expression

Eyebrows give expression: make small curved ridges.

1. Ch 6. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across (5). Row 2: dec, sc 1 (4). Row 3: dec twice (2). Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew. Curve and position above eye, stitch down at inner corner to create furrow. Add a tiny stitched crease between brows for animation.

Tail & Spines

Long tail: join at body back-bottom and crochet in rounds, increasing slightly at base then working even to a tapered tip. Work approximately 40–50 rnds for a long tail (adjust to desired length). Add spikes:

1. Spike: magic ring 4 sc, sc 2 rounds, decrease to close and sew along tail midline spacing 1–2" apart. Make 10–15 spikes depending on tail length. For stiff spikes, insert small pipe cleaners or a wrapped wire core.
2. Optional tail tip: crochet a small fin or club shape and attach.

Finishing & Assembly

1. Close any remaining openings with ladder stitch. Weave in ends. Use surface embroidery to add nostril details and any scale lines.
2. Block wings slightly on a flat surface to set shape. If using wires, avoid sharp ends; wrap ends in yarn or insert deep into body.
3. Sew arms and wings securely: thread yarn through body several times to anchor. If toy will be handled, reinforce with multiple passes of yarn; if decorative, a single seam may suffice.
4. Place safety eyes carefully; if the toy is for a young child, embroider eyes instead and sew on felt patches to cover knots.

Tips & Troubleshooting

• Tension: keep stitches tight to prevent stuffing showing through. If gaps appear, switch to a smaller hook.
• Posing: insert light craft wire in wing bones and tail for poseability. Seal wire ends safely inside stuffed cavities so they cannot poke through yarn.
• Expression: eyebrows and slight tilt of head change personality drastically. Try asymmetry (one brow slightly higher) for mischievous look or low brows for angry look.
• Ribbed belly: if the belly panel puckers, wet-block it or gently steam-block while pinning to shape.

Safety & Care

If making a toy intended for children, avoid using craft wire, small detachable parts, or unsecured safety eyes. Hand wash gently and air dry. For display pieces, spot clean as needed.

Pattern license: personal use and gifts OK. For selling finished items, please credit the pattern source and link to https://purljam.verde.uk. For pattern support: email team@verde.uk. Share finished projects with #purljam on socials.

Happy crocheting — take your time on shaping and assembly; the details make the dragon come alive!

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