Advanced Standing Dragon Plush with Large Wings, Ribbed Belly, Expressive Face, Curved Horns, Long Tail and Membranes

Skill level: Advanced. This pattern makes a poseable, standing knitted dragon approximately 18" (46 cm) tall from toe to horn tip when using the listed yarn and needles and a lightweight wire armature in the legs/spine. The dragon features large articulated wings with knitted membrane panels, a ribbed belly panel for texture and stretch, a long tapered snout, pronounced brows for expression, curved horns knit as shaped i-cords, a long tail with dorsal ridges, and optional pellet-weighted feet for stability.

Finished dimensions

Height: approx 18" (46 cm)
Wingspan (tip to tip): approx 28" (71 cm) if spread
Head circumference at widest point: approx 7" (18 cm)

Materials

Main body yarn: Worsted/Aran weight yarn, medium-smooth plied recommended. Amount: 400 yards (366 m) / approx 225 g. Use a contrasting color for belly and membranes as needed: 100 yards (91 m) / 55 g.
Accents: small amounts (20-40 yards / 18-37 m) of darker yarn for eyebrows, nostrils, claws, and spines.
Filling: polyester stuffing, polyester pellet bag (optional) 50-150 g for weighted base.
Safety eyes: 12 mm or 14 mm, or embroider eyes for safety if the toy is for a child.
Wire armature: 18-20 ga floral wire or small craft armature wire for legs/spine/wings support. Use pliers and cover wire ends securely.
Embroidery thread or stranded cotton for facial details.
Sewing needles, stitch markers, scrap yarn for provisional cast-ons.
Optional: small pieces of thin plastic or craft foam for wing stiffener, or lightweight beading wire to shape wing tips.

Needles and hooks

Primary knitting worked in the round with the following. Use needles to achieve a dense fabric for stuffing; substitute a size to meet gauge.

Double-pointed needles (DPNs) or small circular (magic loop) set: US 3 / UK 11 / 3.25 mm
Smaller DPNs or circular for tighter seams and snout detail: US 2 / UK 12 / 2.75 mm
Optional: US 4 / UK 8 / 3.5 mm for wing membranes if you want a slightly looser texture (pattern gives instructions to adapt)

Yarn weight reference

Worsted / Aran (Category 4): approx 200-250 yards per 100 g (183-229 m per 100 g). Indicated yarn amounts above are in imperial yards and metric meters.

Gauge

24 sts and 32 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette on US 3 (3.25 mm) needles. For stuffed toys you want a tighter gauge; if your gauge is looser, go down one needle size. Adjust stuffing and wire placement if you change gauge.

Abbreviations (US knitting)

K knit
P purl
K2tog knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
SSK slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
YO yarn over
M1 make one increase (lifted increase - specify right or left in-line)
Kfb knit into front and back of stitch
SSt slip stitch
CO cast on
BO bind off
St(s) stitch(es)
RS right side, WS wrong side
I-cord worked: knit all sts on small set of needles without turning as instructed
MC main color; CC contrast color

Techniques you'll use

Knitting in the round with DPNs or magic loop
Short rows for shaping snout and shoulder
Putting in a provisional cast-on and grafting with Kitchener
I-cord horns and ridges
Picking up stitches for wing attachment and neck
Duplicate stitch and surface embroidery for brows and facial details
Adding internal armature/wire and weighting feet using pellet bags

Structure overview and assembly order

The pattern knits limbs and head separately, then the body is worked in one piece with the belly panel incorporated, allowing the dragon to stand. Wings and membranes are knit flat and then sewn to the back with reinforced attachment. The horns and spines are made as i-cord pieces, stuffed slightly and sewn on. The eyebrows are embroidered to give expression. Internal wire is threaded into the legs and core for poseability; feet are reinforced and possibly weighted.

Pattern notes

Stitch counts assume working in stockinette in the round unless otherwise stated.
When instructions say "work even" it means continue without increasing/decreasing.
For a firmer fabric, use a needle one size smaller for the head and snout sections.
Keep yarn tail length when changing color for the belly so you can mattress stitch and hide tails internally.

Pattern

1. Feet (make 2)

Using MC and small needles US 3 (3.25 mm):

CO 12 sts. Join to work in the round, place marker (= beginning of round).
Rnd 1-8: K all rounds.
Rnd 9: (Kfb) 6 times — 18 sts.
Rnd 10-16: K around.
Shape toes — Work short row toe shaping: Rnd 17: K10, turn (work back and forth on remaining sts), P10; continue short rows for 4 steps to shape the front of the foot and then pick up wrapped sts and knit in the round again until foot measures 1.75"/4.5 cm from cast on. (If you prefer a simpler foot, omit short rows and decrease evenly to create a rounded toe.)
Stuff lightly, insert pellet bag at base if using.
Close top: Rnd: (K2tog) repeat to end. Cut yarn leaving long tail and thread through remaining sts. Pull tight and weave in.

2. Legs and lower body (make 2)

Using US 3 (3.25 mm). CO 30 sts, join to knit in the round.
Work in 1x1 rib (K1, P1) for 8 rounds to create a cuff.
Switch to stockinette (K all sts) and work 28 rounds for calf shape.
At the top of the leg, shape thigh with increases: Rnd: *K6, M1* around — 35 sts.
Work even 8 rounds. Leave live on waste yarn or place on holder until assembly. Insert short length of armature wire through leg center (from top to base) leaving extra wire protruding at the top to be joined into the body core later. Bend wire ends to create anchor and wrap with a little leftover yarn to protect stuffing.

3. Tail

Pick up color MC. CO 8 sts in the round on US 3 (3.25 mm). Work i-cord for 6 rows to create a slightly rounded base or begin stockinette in the round.
Work tapered decreases every 6 rounds: Knit around for 14 rounds, then decrease rounds: *K5, K2tog* repeat — reduce stitches gradually until you have 8 sts, then continue to taper down to 4 sts and BO. Stuff firmly as you go and insert thin length of wire for poseable tail. Leave long tail to sew to body.
Dorsal ridges: Make 8 small i-cord spikes (see horns technique below but much shorter). Sew spikes along tail spine with even spacing.

4. Body and ribbed belly panel

The ribbed belly is worked as a vertical inset panel in CC whereas the body is MC. The belly panel is created by switching to CC for a central rectangular area and working a column of twisted 2x2 ribs to give that ribbed dragon-belly look.

With MC cast on 120 sts in the round for body tube on US 3 (3.25 mm). Place marker for beginning of round.
Work in stockinette for 12 rounds to form base for leg joins.
Join legs: open a gap at the front center by placing markers and grafting leg tops into the body opening. You will place 20 sts from each leg onto the body at their positions. After joining, continue to work body in the round but treat the central belly 28-stitch area as the ribbed inset.
Ribbed belly panel set-up: When you reach the front center, switch to CC for the 28 sts belly panel and work in twisted 2x2 rib: Round even rows: *p1tbl, k1tbl* across the panel. Twisted rib is achieved by purling through back loop for tbl and knitting through back loop where instructed to produce a tighter, raised rib. The rest of the body stiches remain in MC stockinette. Use markers to mark the panel edges so you alternate colors neatly.
Work body and belly for 28 rounds; on rounds where you reach the neck opening, begin short rows to shape shoulder with 6-8 wraps on each side to create a sloped chest into the neck.
After the body reaches 10" (25 cm) from the top of the legs (or desired torso length), begin decreasing for the shoulder/neck base: Decrease evenly 12 sts over 4 rounds, then place remaining neck sts onto holder for head and neck construction.

5. Neck and head

The neck is worked in the round with short rows to shape the base and a long snout shaped by staged increases and decreases and short rows for the top curve.

Pick up neck sts from body: approx 36-42 sts in MC on US 2 (2.75 mm) for a tighter fabric.
Work 6 rounds even in stockinette forming a defined throat.
Neck taper: decrease 2 sts every 6 rounds twice to create a gradual neck narrowing.
Head base: increase to 48 sts evenly over 2 rounds. Place marker for begin of round and note left/right face sides for brow shaping.
Work head shaping in short rows: Use a short row scheme where you work half the head back and forth to create snout projection. Example: Row 1 (RS): Knit to 3 sts before marker, turn and purl back. Wrap and turn at each short-row turning point. Continue this wrap-and-turn shaping, increasing at the snout tip by Kfb at the center front on a few rounds to build length. Total rounds ~24 short-row steps depending on desired snout length. After shaping top of head, resume knitting in the round and close hole with Kitchener graft or few decrease rounds. Leave for stuffing and final shaping.
Nose/nostrils: pick up 6-8 sts at snout tip and work a small short i-cord stub or embroider nostril marks; you can also knit a small flat trapezoid and sew it to the end for a widened snout tip.

6. Eyebrows and expressive face

Brow ridges: make 2 small 8-12-st i-cords in a darker CC or embroidery yarn. Shape i-cords by knitting 12 rows then fold and seam slightly to create a raised ridge. Sew above the eyes, angling them toward the center for a furrowed or expressive look.
Eyes: install safety eyes between rounds specified (approx 6-8 rounds back from the brow area) or embroider almond-shaped eyes with a white highlight and a darker iris. For a stern look, embroider slanted lids with duplicate stitch or surface slip stitch.
Mouth: embroider a small mouth line or knit a short ridge and tack it into place. Add a few white teeth by sewing small triangular pieces of felt or yarn.

7. Horns and spines

Curved horns are best as stuffed i-cords that are shaped after stuffing.

Cast on 4 sts on double-pointed needles in CC (horn color) and work i-cord for 36-48 rows depending on desired horn length. Increase the last 6 rows by knitting into the front and back of each stitch to make the base wider, then BO leaving a long tail.
Stuff lightly and bend into a curve. Steam lightly or use hot water shaping over a cylindrical form to set curve if using a steam-safe yarn. Sew horns to head at the specified base points. Add a thin wire inside each horn if you want permanent posing (secure and cap wire ends).
Spine ridges: make 10-12 small i-cord triangles or knit small scales and sew along spine from head crest to tail tip. Alternate colors for contrast.

8. Wings and membranes

Wings are worked flat, each wing as two pieces: the wing bone (knit i-cord or flat boomerang piece) and the knitted membrane panel.

Wing bone: CO 8 sts on US 3. Work a tapered flat strip: work K rows decreasing 1 st at each end every 6 rows until you have a tip with 2 sts. This creates the outer finger bones. Reinforce by knitting a mirrored second strip and sewing together with a thin internal wire sandwiched between for structure.
Membrane panel: With MC or CC on US 4 if you want a looser membrane, cast on 40-60 sts depending on the desired width. Work a triangular / trapezoid shaping: decrease 1 st at each edge every other row to form a tapered wing shape. For texture, work a lace rib: Row pattern across the panel: Row A (RS): K1, *YO, K2tog, K4* repeat to last st, K1. Row B (WS): P all stitches. Adjust stitch counts to maintain even edge. The lace creates a lightweight translucent membrane look. You may also work a stockinette membrane for simplicity.
Join membrane to wing bone: sew the membrane edge along the wing bones, leaving reinforced channels at the inner edge to insert a flexible wire for posing. Add a narrow hem by folding the inner membrane edge and sewing to create a strong seam.
Attach wings to back: pick up stitches along the back seam or sew wings into a prepared opening on the upper back. Reinforce with a piece of felt inside and secure the wire armature to the central spine wire.

9. Assembly and finishing

Stuff all parts firmly but not overstuffed. Use small amounts of fiberfill so seams are easy to close.
Sew legs to body if not already joined. Make sure leg armature wires meet and are twisted together lightly to form a secure internal skeleton; wrap joint with duct tape or yarn to bulk and keep from poking through stuffing.
Sew tail to lower back and secure wire into the spine core.
Attach head to neck with strong mattress stitch or grafting. Ensure internal wires connect (legs/spine/head) if you want a single continuous armature.
Sew horns, brows, eyes, and spines. Embroider nostrils, mouth lines and additional face wrinkles for expression. Use short horizontal stitches over the brow area to angle the brows down and create an assertive or curious expression.
Block wings and membrane pieces gently to even the stitches. Stiffen with lightweight diluted fabric stiffener if you want permanent wing shape, but avoid heavy stiffeners that make the wings too rigid.
Trim any protruding wires and securely bury all wire ends. Check seams for weak points and reinforce with extra stitches as needed.

10. Optional finishing details

Felting or needle-felting a bit of darker wool around the eyes and nostrils adds realism.
Use surface duplicate stitch to add scales or highlight rib valleys on the belly.
Sew removable decorative saddle or armor pieces for extra character.

Sizing and adjustments

To change the dragon size, choose a heavier yarn and larger needles to create a larger dragon, or smaller yarn and needles for a smaller model. Remember to scale internal wires and pellet weights proportionally for balance.

Care instructions

Spot clean only. If the toy must be washed, remove the internal wire armature and pellet bags first. Hand wash gently, reshape while damp and dry flat. Avoid machine washing as it can distort the armature and seams.

Notes and tips

Keep a list of stitch counts at the end of each section to make seaming and fitting easier.
Try assembling with safety pins before final sewing to perfect wing and head placement.
If you want a less sturdy fabric, work the wings and belly on a slightly larger needle to give a softer drape.

For pattern updates, errata, or to share photos of your finished dragon, visit https://purljam.verde.uk. For support email team@verde.uk. Share makes with the hashtag #purljam on socials.

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