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purlJam

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Star Lace Long Cardigan with Hood

Young, calm and thoughtful long knitted cardigan worked mostly flat with a set-in sleeve and a gently scalloped star-lace panel down each front and along the sleeve centers. Designed for DK weight yarn for a soft drape and good stitch definition. Includes full measurements for six sizes, clear stitch-pattern instructions, and finishing details for a tidy hood and neat banded edges.

Designer notes

Construction: Bottom-up body (back and two fronts worked flat), set-in sleeves worked flat and seamed, hood picked up and worked flat, simple ribbed band and cuffs. The Star Lace is a simple 8-row repeat that looks intricate without chart-reading: written row-by-row is included so you can follow the motif anywhere you like.

Sizes (finished chest)

Finished measurements

Yarn

DK weight (light worsted). Suggested: any plied DK with good stitch definition and light halo for drape.

Note: If your yarn yardage differs, calculate by total required metres/yards. Allow extra for color changes or long sleeves.

Needles (US, UK old, Metric)

Gauge

20 sts × 28 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on US 7 (4.5 mm) after blocking. Use the smaller needle for ribbing gauge; adjust needle sizes if necessary to match gauge.

Notions

Abbreviations (US terms)

Star Lace Stitch Pattern (multiple of 8 sts + 2 selvedge sts)

The star lace is worked over 8 rows. Work a single selvedge stitch at each edge of a panel (worked in garter or seed stitch as preferred) to reduce curling. In the instructions below, where panels include lace you will be given counts that include selvedge stitches where appropriate.

Star Lace Pattern (8-row repeat)
Row 1 (RS): *K1, YO, K2tog, K1, SSK, YO, K1* rep to last st, K1
Row 2 (WS): Purl across
Row 3: K across
Row 4: Purl across
Row 5: *K1, YO, K2tog, K1, SSK, YO, K1* rep to end
Row 6: Purl across
Row 7: K across
Row 8: Purl across
Notes: On Rows 1 & 5 the star "pinwheel" is formed: the YO + K2tog and SSK + YO create the open star points. If you prefer to reduce laddering, work the purls on WS as p2tog tbl where needed to tighten, but keep the lace look even.

Pattern notes

Cast-on numbers (based on gauge 5 sts per inch)

Back

  1. With US 6 (4.0 mm) needles, cast on number indicated for your size. Work 1x1 rib (K1, P1) for 2 in / 5 cm. Change to US 7 (4.5 mm).
  2. Work in Stockinette (RS: knit across, WS: purl across) while placing the star lace panels as follows: if you want a centered star panel, work the stitch counts so the panel sits centered across the back; otherwise keep the back plain and reserve star panels for fronts and sleeves. (Example layout for XS back = 90 sts: you can place two star panels 8 sts each spaced with 32 sts between: [selvage 1][star 8][stock 32][star 8][stock 38][selvage 1] - or simplify and keep back plain.)
  3. Work until back measures from cast-on edge to underarm 16 in / 41 cm (adjust to match desired total length minus shoulder/neck shaping). End after a WS row.
  4. Shape shoulders: Bind off 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) sts at each shoulder edge twice, then bind off remaining center sts for neck (this produces a small neck opening for seamed shoulders). Adjust these numbers if you want a wider neck.

Left Front (work Right Front in mirror)

  1. With US 6, cast on your front stitch count. Work 1x1 rib for 2 in / 5 cm. Change to US 7.
  2. Establish edge: Work 1 selvedge st in garter (K on RS, P on WS) at the side seam edge. At the front edge, leave 2 in / 5 cm for the front band in 1x1 rib (these stitches are worked K on RS when the band will be picked up later), OR you may pick up for the band after shaping (instructions below assume band is picked up later). Place star lace panel 2 in / 5 cm from the front edge. Example XS layout (45 sts): [front band 2][stock 6][selvedge 1][star 8][stock 28] (adjust to balance)
  3. Work in pattern (stockinette with lace insert) until front measures same length as back to underarm. Shape armhole to match back: on the RS bind off 5 (6,7,7,8,8) sts at armhole edge once, then dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 3 times to taper to shoulder width.
  4. Continue to shoulder shaping matching back and bind off remaining shoulder sts to match back. Repeat for Right Front, reversing lace placement left-to-right.

Sleeves (worked flat)

  1. With US 6 (4.0 mm), cast on cuff cast-on for your size. Work 1x1 rib for 2 in / 5 cm. Change to US 7 (4.5 mm).
  2. Place center stitch markers for the star-lace placement down the center of the sleeve (if you want a central star panel, reserve 8 sts for the panel and work it centered; otherwise work plain stockinette).
  3. Increase row: Work in stockinette with increases at each end (Kfb or M1R/M1L as you prefer) every 6th row until sleeve upper-arm circumference is reached: target upper-arm circumference (stitches) = desired upper-arm inches × gauge (5 sts/in). Targets: XS 70 sts (14 in) | S 75 sts (15 in) | M 80 sts (16 in) | L 85 sts (17 in) | XL 90 sts (18 in) | 2XL 95 sts (19 in). If your starting cuff cast-on is smaller, calculate increases needed as (target - cast-on) and divide by 2 to get number of increase pairs. Space increases evenly every N rows to keep a smooth taper (example: if you need 13 increase pairs and want them over 78 rows, do an increase pair every 6 rows).
  4. Work straight (no more increases) until sleeve from cuff to underarm measures the indicated sleeve length from cuff to underarm minus 1 in for seam allowance, or match to body armhole depth measured on your back/front pieces.
  5. Bind off and block sleeve flat. Make the second sleeve to match.

Set-in sleeve and seaming

  1. Block back and fronts lightly, pin shoulder seams matching shoulder bind-offs, and sew shoulders with mattress stitch.
  2. Sew sleeves into armholes using easing if necessary. Close side and sleeve seams, matching pattern repeat carefully across seams.

Hood

  1. With US 6, pick up and knit stitches evenly around neck opening (including front bands if you left them unworked). Pick up approximately 4 sts per inch around the neck opening; for XS that will be ~144 sts; adjust to fit your cast-on and seam allowances—hood shaping works with any even number of stitches that is a multiple of the lace repeat if you plan to add the star lace to the hood. You may also work a plain hood—pick up fewer stitches if you prefer a smaller hood. (If you used provisional cast-on at the front edge, undo and pick up those live sts for a neat band.)
  2. Work in stockinette for 1 in in US 6, then change to US 7 and work until hood measures back of head to front edge 12 in (30 cm) from pick-up edge, ending on a WS row.
  3. Shape crown: (RS) K2tog across every other row until ~16-20 sts remain (work symmetrical decreases: K2tog at beginning and SSK at end of row) then cut yarn, thread through remaining sts and pull to close. Sew crown seam.
  4. Fold hood in half with RS together and sew center back seam. Block for shape.

Front band and buttonband

  1. Option A: If you left a few band stitches live at the front edges you will have a neat 1x1 rib already. Option B: Pick up sts along the front edges and base of hood: pick up 1 stitch for every 2 rows (or as needed to avoid puckering). Using US 6, work 1x1 rib for 2 in / 5 cm for a narrow band, or 3 in / 7.5 cm for a heavier band. Bind off loosely in rib.
  2. Button placement (optional): If you want buttons, place 5-7 evenly spaced depending on length. Make buttonholes on the facing band in a pattern that matches your chosen buttons (e.g., bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 sts next row for each buttonhole) starting 1 in from hem band and spacing evenly to the chest.

Finishing

Alterations & tips

Care

Hand wash cool, reshape and dry flat. Some superwash DK yarns can be machine-washed on a gentle cycle—check your yarn label. Block to measurements to open the lace pattern.

Support & resources

For questions or support about this pattern contact: team@verde.uk. Visit pattern home: https://purljam.verde.uk. Socials: #purljam

Happy knitting — take your time with the lace panels, keep a lifeline every 4-6 repeats during the first sample, and enjoy the rhythm of the star-lace repeat.


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