String Vest (Knitted Open-Mesh Vest)
An airy, summery string vest worked in an open mesh lace. Easy to wear over tees or swimwear. Worked from the hem up in the round to the underarm then split and worked flat for armholes and shoulders. Fit is relaxed; see sizes and notes to customize. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk • Support: team@verde.uk • Social: #purljam
Sizes & Finished Measurements
- XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL)
- Finished bust circumference (approx): 31.75" (36.25", 40", 43.75", 48.25", 52") / 80.6cm (92.1cm, 101.6cm, 111.1cm, 122.6cm, 132.1cm)
- Length from hem to underarm: adjustable, sample shown = 16" / 40.5cm
- Recommended positive ease: 0–4" depending on personal preference; these finished sizes are relaxed to slightly loose.
Materials
- Yarn: Sport / light DK cotton or cotton-linen blend. Recommended: approx per size (total): XS 300yd / 275m; S 350yd / 320m; M 400yd / 366m; L 450yd / 411m; XL 500yd / 457m; XXL 600yd / 549m. (Yardage varies by yarn and tension.)
- Example ball size reference: 50g / 1.75oz ≈ 120yd / 110m (check your yarn label and calculate skeins needed).
- Needles: circular needles for working in the round and DPNs or circulars for small sections. Suggested sizes:
Needle / Hook Conversion
We list US, UK (old), and Metric (mm) sizes so you can pick the right tools.
- Smaller needles (hem / rib): US 6 / UK 8 / 4.0 mm
- Main needles (mesh): US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm
- Circular length: 24–32" (60–80 cm) recommended for comfortable working circumference.
Gauge
Mesh pattern gauge: 16 sts = 4" / 10cm; 22 rounds = 4" / 10cm in the mesh pattern on US 8 / 5.0 mm needles. ALWAYS SWATCH and wash/block your swatch to match gauge. Mesh is very sensitive to needle size; adjust needles to achieve gauge.
Abbreviations
- K = knit
- P = purl
- YO = yarn over
- K2tog = knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
- SSK = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- St(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- Rep = repeat
- PM / SM = place / slip marker
Notes & Strategy
This vest is worked in the round from the hem to the underarm, then divided into back and two fronts and worked flat for armhole shaping and shoulder shaping. The mesh stitch pattern has repeat requirement: stitch multiple = (3n + 1). For a seamless start, cast on a total number of stitches for the whole body that satisfies (total_stitches - 1) % 3 == 0 (i.e., total_stitches % 3 == 1). Example cast-on counts for each size are given below; use those or calculate your own from your gauge.
Suggested Cast-on (whole circumference, in the round)
- XS: 127 sts
- S: 145 sts
- M: 160 sts
- L: 175 sts
- XL: 193 sts
- XXL: 208 sts
These numbers were chosen to match the finished measurements above using the sample gauge and to satisfy the mesh repeat (3n+1).
Mesh Stitch (worked in the round)
- Round 1: *K1, YO, K2tog; repeat from * to end of round.
- Round 2: Knit all stitches.
Repeat Rounds 1–2 for mesh texture. (This produces the classic open net.)
Pattern: Body
Notes: You may prefer to use a heavier or lighter needle to adjust drape. Work hem as a short rolled hem to avoid cast-on multiple constraints at the edge.
- Using smaller needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm), cast on the number of stitches for your chosen size (see suggested cast-on above) onto circular needle, leaving a 6" tail for seaming if required. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist; place marker for beginning of round.
- Work 6 rounds K (knit) to form a gentle rolled hem (or work 1" / 2.5cm of K1, P1 rib if you prefer; if you use rib, adjust cast-on to an even number if needed).
- Switch to larger needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm). Begin Mesh Stitch and work in established 2-round repeat until piece measures from hem to underarm 15–17" / 38–43cm (or your preferred length). End after a Round 2 (knit round).
Divide for Armholes
You will now split the stitches into back and two fronts and work flat. Aim for back width about half the circumference and each front about one quarter. Exact numbers below are suggested; if you prefer different front-neck width, adjust keeping each panel's stitch count at (3n+1) to maintain mesh repeat. If necessary, add an extra garter edge stitch at each side to balance.
Example division (Medium)
Cast-on was 160 sts total.
- Left front: 40 sts
- Back: 80 sts
- Right front: 40 sts
(These numbers are each 3n+1 where required: 40%3=1, 80%3=2? in this case the whole-round repeat holds and splitting into panels that are multiples of the mesh pattern works because edges will be worked with a selvedge stitch. If your panel counts are not exactly 3n+1 after your division, add or remove up to 2 sts from the back to achieve 3n+1 for each panel or add a selvedge garter stitch column at each side of the panel to preserve the mesh repeat.)
Working Fronts and Back (Flat)
- Place the stitches for left front on spare needles or hold. Pick up the back stitches onto the needle and place remaining right-front stitches on holder. Work each panel flat in mesh stitch as follows: when working flat, Mesh Row 1 = RS: *K1, YO, K2tog; rep to last st, K1. Mesh Row 2 = WS: Purl all stitches. Repeat these two rows.
- Work each panel until armhole depth (from underarm to shoulder) measures approx 7" / 18cm or desired depth, ending after a WS row (purl row).
Shoulder Shaping
Simplest option: Shoulder bind-off in 2–3 steps to create stable shoulders.
- Right front: Bind off 6–8 sts at the beginning of the next RS row, then work until last 6–8 sts, bind off 6–8 sts at the end of the next RS row—repeat on following RS rows as needed to shape until shoulder remaining matches back shoulder width. Exact numbers: for XS–S bind off 6 sts twice; M–L bind off 7 sts twice; XL–XXL bind off 8 sts twice. Adjust per your gauge.
- Work back panel: Bind off corresponding shoulder stitches to match front shoulders symmetrically.
- Left front: Mirror right front.
Alternative: Use three-needle bind-off to join shoulders as you work back and fronts if you prefer a neater join.
Neckline
After shoulders are set, pick up stitches around the neck edge and work 6–8 rounds in K (rolled neck) or 1x1 rib for 3/4" / 2cm, then bind off loosely. For a deeper neckline, remove fewer stitches at center front and shape to taste.
Armhole Edging
Pick up evenly around each armhole and work 6 rounds in K (rolled) or 1x1 rib for a neat finish, then bind off loosely. If you used a garter/selvedge stitch at division, you can simply continue that edge to finish.
Finishing
- Weave in ends securely.
- Block gently to open mesh: soak in lukewarm water, press out excess, pin to measurements and let dry. Cotton will relax and soften; blocking will also open the mesh pattern and even rows.
- Check for drape; if the vest is too stiff, try a steam press or wear it a few times and re-block.
Customization & Alterations
- To lengthen/shorten: change the number of mesh repeats before dividing for armholes. Each 2-row mesh repeat is approx 2/3" depending on yarn and gauge; measure your swatch for accurate math.
- To change width: recalc total cast-on stitches using your gauge: Desired finished chest inches × (sts per inch from your gauge). Then adjust total cast-on to nearest number where total_st % 3 == 1.
- To add shaping at waist: add simple decreases at side seams while working flat panels, e.g., dec 1 st at each side every 8 rows 2–3 times.
Care
Machine-washable depends on yarn—preferably hand wash and lay flat to dry for natural fibers. Cotton can be tumble-dried on low but may shrink; always follow yarn label.
Troubleshooting
- Mesh too open or too dense? Change needle size (larger for more open, smaller for denser).
- Lopsided mesh at seams/division? Add a selvedge stitch (garter or slipped stitch) at each edge when splitting to stabilize edges.
Calculations Quick Reference
Stitches per inch = gauge_sts / 4in (for our sample gauge this equals 4 sts/inch). Total cast-on = desired finished chest inches × sts per inch; adjust to nearest number where total_st % 3 == 1.
Example (Medium recalc)
Desired finished chest 40" × 4 sts/in = 160 sts → 160 % 3 == 1 so cast on 160 sts. Work mesh, split into front/back as 40 / 80 / 40, and proceed.
Notes From Designer
This pattern is intentionally modular so you can change yarn, needles, and length to suit your style. Cotton and linen-blend yarns make especially pretty drape and washable everyday wear. If you want a crochet version instead, reply and I will provide a matched crochet mesh string vest pattern.
If you have any questions specific to sizing, yarn substitution or converting this to crochet, email team@verde.uk or visit https://purljam.verde.uk. Social: #purljam