Thief Jumper

A modern, slightly oversized top-down raglan pullover worked in smooth stockinette with a deep, stealthy yoke. Designed for aran/worsted weight yarn with a tidy 2x2 rib at neck, hem and cuffs. Fit is relaxed with positive ease; two options given for finishing yoke (size-specific counts or stop at a measured yoke depth).

Sizes (finished chest circumference)

• S (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X): 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60) inches / 101.5 (112, 122, 132, 142, 152) cm

Yardage & Yarn

Weight: Aran / Worsted

• Suggested yardage (approx): S 900 yds (823 m) / 450 g (15.9 oz); M 1000 yds (914 m) / 500 g (17.6 oz); L 1100 yds (1006 m) / 550 g (19.4 oz); XL 1250 yds (1143 m) / 625 g (22.0 oz); 2X 1400 yds (1280 m) / 700 g (24.7 oz); 3X 1550 yds (1418 m) / 775 g (27.3 oz).
• Typical yarn spec used to calculate these amounts: ~200 yds / 183 m per 100 g. Adjust amounts for your yarn label and tension.

Needles & Notions

• Main: US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm circular needles (length: 24–32" / 60–80 cm) and 16" / 40 cm circular for small circumferences if preferred.
• For rib: US 6 / UK 8 / 4.0 mm (16" / 24" circular or DPNs for cuffs)
• Sleeves: DPNs or 32" / 80 cm circular (magic loop), same size as Main as needed.
• Stitch markers (4 + 1 marker to join), waste yarn for holding sleeve stitches, tapestry needle, stitch holders.

Gauge

18 sts and 24 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on US 8 / 5.0 mm needles. That is 4.5 sts per inch and 6 rows per inch. IMPORTANT: Swatch and adjust needle size for correct gauge.

Abbreviations

K - knit. P - purl. K2tog - knit two together. SSK - slip, slip, knit. M1L - make 1 left (lift strand from between sts, knit into back). M1R - make 1 right (lift strand from between sts, knit into front). CO - cast on. BO - bind off. rnd - round. st(s) - stitch(es).

Construction Overview

1. Cast on neck stitches and work 2x2 rib for neckband.
2. Switch to larger needles and begin raglan yoke with 4 raglan increase lines (place 4 markers to divide front, sleeve1, back, sleeve2).
3. Work raglan increases every other round until you reach the underarm and required total stitch counts for your chosen size (counts given below) or until preferred yoke depth is reached. Divide for sleeves onto waste yarn and continue body in the round to desired length. Return to sleeves and knit to cuff, finishing with 2x2 rib.

Cast-on & Yoke: size-specific counts

These cast-on numbers and increase counts are chosen so the raglan increases land evenly. If you prefer to work to a measured yoke depth instead, see the alternate option after the counts table.

• Final target stitch totals (after all raglan increases, before dividing sleeves): S 308, M 334, L 360, XL 386, 2X 412, 3X 442 stitches.
• Recommended starting CO and number of raglan increase rounds (increase round = round in which you add 8 sts; pattern increases every other round so each increase uses 2 rounds):
  • S: CO 68 sts. Increases: 30 (30 increase rounds = 60 rounds -> yoke depth ≈ 10” / 25 cm).
  • M: CO 70 sts. Increases: 33 (≈ 11” / 28 cm).
  • L: CO 72 sts. Increases: 36 (≈ 12” / 30.5 cm).
  • XL: CO 74 sts. Increases: 39 (≈ 13” / 33 cm).
  • 2X: CO 76 sts. Increases: 42 (≈ 14” / 35.5 cm).
  • 3X: CO 74 sts. Increases: 46 (≈ 15.3” / 39 cm).

Detailed Cast-on and Yoke Instructions

1. Using smaller needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm), CO the number of stitches for your size listed above. Join carefully, placing a marker for the beginning of round.
2. Work 2x2 rib (K2, P2) in the round for 1.25” / 3 cm, or desired neck rib depth.
3. Switch to main needles (US 8 / 5.0 mm). Set up raglan: place markers to create four sections. Suggested initial layout: after rib, arrange stitches as: marker, 1 st (part of raglan line), marker, distribute remaining stitches roughly evenly between front, sleeve1, back, sleeve2; exact distribution will work itself out as you increase. Place a marker between each section to mark raglan lines (4 markers total between sections).
4. Raglan increase round (worked every other round): *K to 1 st before next marker, M1R, K1, slip marker, K1, M1L; repeat from * around. Next round: knit all stitches.
5. Repeat the pair of rounds (increase round, plain knit round) until you have reached the number of increase rounds listed above for your size OR until sleeve stitch counts (measured underarm) reach the sleeve counts below (see sleeve counts). If you are monitoring yoke depth, measure from the cast-on edge; typical underarm point is 8” (20 cm) for closer fit or up to 11” (28 cm) for a deeper yoke; the size-specific approach will create longer yokes on larger sizes.

Underarm & Separation

When you have completed the final increase round, the stitch total should match the totals listed above. Now separate body and sleeves:

1. Work one round even (knit all sts) and then set up as follows: Front section, place sleeve1 stitches on waste yarn/holder and CO 3 stitches underarm to replace gap (or use German short rows/bridging method), work back section, place sleeve2 stitches on waste yarn, CO 3 stitches underarm. The 3 CO stitches form the underarm join. Alternatively, knit until you reach marker, slip sleeve sts to holder, cast on underarm stitches, and proceed.
2. Stitch counts to expect for body and sleeves at separation (approx):
   • Body stitches (front + back) at separation: S 180, M 198, L 216, XL 234, 2X 252, 3X 270 (these match the finished body circumference in stitches).
   • Sleeve stitches (each) at separation (approx finished sleeve bicep): S 64, M 68, L 72, XL 76, 2X 80, 3X 86.

Body

1. With body stitches on needles, join in the round and work in stockinette (knit every round) until body measures 13” / 33 cm from underarm for a hip length, or 16” / 41 cm for a longer tunic length, or desired length.
2. Work 2x2 rib in the round for 2.5” / 6.5 cm; BO loosely in rib.

Sleeves

1. Place sleeve stitches from waste yarn onto needles. Join and pick up the 3 underarm CO stitches if used. You should have the sleeve stitch count approximated above; if you wish a slimmer sleeve, decrease evenly now to reach a preferred bicep circumference.
2. Work even in stockinette until sleeve measures 17” / 43 cm from underarm or desired sleeve length.
3. Work 2x2 rib for 2.5” / 6.5 cm; BO loosely in rib. Repeat for other sleeve.

Finishing

• Weave in ends. Block garment to measurements—gently wet block to open stockinette and even stitches. Press lightly if needed.
• Optional: Add small shoulder reinforcement stitches at underarm if desired. Check neckband fit and pick up tidy stitches if you prefer a firmer neckband.

Alternate Yoke Option (measure instead of counting)

If you prefer a consistent yoke depth for all sizes: work raglan increase pairs (increase round + plain round) until yoke depth measures 8”–9” / 20–23 cm from cast-on edge (measure at center back to underarm). At that point, check sleeve stitch counts and body counts; continue increases until sleeve stitch count equals your target sleeve circumference in stitches (sleeve circumference inches x gauge) or stop and divide when you like the look. Note: stopping earlier produces a shallower yoke and will change the distribution of stitches between body and sleeves; you may need to adjust CO underarm stitches to keep shaping even.

Modifications & Notes

• Want a shorter yoke (more drop shoulder)? Stop increases earlier and redistribute sleeve stitches by placing more on the sleeve holders; you may prefer to decrease sleeve stitches slightly if they feel too wide.
• To add texture: swap the stockinette body for a 2-row slip-stitch pattern or add a small cable down the center front by adjusting final front stitch count to suit repeats.
• Always swatch and check gauge. If you knit tighter/looser, choose smaller/larger needles and re-evaluate yardage.

Care

Hand wash cold or machine wash gentle (wool-safe), lay flat to dry. Block to finished measurements to even stitches.

Pattern author: PurlJam (pattern adapted for clarity). For support: https://purljam.verde.uk | contact: team@verde.uk | socials: #purljam

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