Top-Down Knit Beanie
A simple, versatile top-down beanie worked in the round. Clear step-by-step instructions for six sizes, ribbed or folded brim options, and an easy, marker-based crown decrease so you don’t have to memorize odd stitch math. Great for beginners who know basic knit-in-the-round skills.
Finished sizes (approx)
- Newborn: 13” / 33 cm
- Baby: 15” / 38 cm
- Child: 17” / 43 cm
- Teen / Small Adult (S): 19” / 48 cm
- Adult (M): 21” / 53 cm
- Adult (L): 23” / 58 cm
Gauge
18 stitches and 24 rounds = 4” / 10 cm in stockinette on US 8 (5.0 mm) needles. If your gauge is tighter, go up a needle size; if looser, go down a size.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight / Aran (Category 4). Suggested: single color or stripes.
- Yarn amounts (approx):
- Newborn: 60 yards / 55 m — ~25 g (0.9 oz)
- Baby: 100 yards / 91 m — ~35 g (1.2 oz)
- Child: 125 yards / 114 m — ~45 g (1.6 oz)
- Teen/S: 150 yards / 137 m — ~55 g (1.9 oz)
- Adult M: 175 yards / 160 m — ~70 g (2.5 oz)
- Adult L: 200 yards / 183 m — ~100 g (3.5 oz)
- Needles (choose sizes to obtain gauge):
- Smaller needle (brim or if you want a firmer rib): US 7 – 4.5 mm – UK 7 – 16”/40 cm circular or DPNs
- Main needle (body): US 8 – 5.0 mm – UK 6 – 16”/40 cm circular or DPNs
- Optional: Use only one size for whole hat, or interchangeables. DPNs or magic loop when top gets small.
- Notions: stitch marker (SM), tapestry needle, scissors, waste yarn for provisional cast-on (optional).
Abbreviations
- CO – cast on
- k – knit
- p – purl
- k2tog – knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- PM – place marker
- SM – slip marker
- DPN – double-pointed needle
Cast-on counts
Cast on a multiple of 4 to keep a 2x2 rib. Recommended counts (work in the round):
- Newborn: CO 60 sts
- Baby: CO 68 sts
- Child: CO 76 sts
- Teen/S: CO 84 sts
- Adult M: CO 92 sts
- Adult L: CO 104 sts
Notes before you start
- All sizes are worked the same way. When a step gives multiple options, the larger number is for larger sizes and the smaller for smaller sizes.
- If you prefer a folded brim, make the brim twice the depth given and fold up at the end. For a slouchy beanie, add 1” / 2.5 cm to the body length before beginning crown decreases.
Pattern
- Cast on the number of stitches for your size using your preferred method. Join carefully to work in the round, being careful not to twist. PM to mark beginning of round.
- Ribbed brim: Using smaller needle (US 7 / 4.5 mm) work in 2x2 rib (k2, p2) for:
- Newborn: 1½” / 4 cm
- Baby: 1½” / 4 cm
- Child: 1½” / 4 cm
- Teen/S: 2” / 5 cm
- Adult M: 2” / 5 cm
- Adult L: 2” / 5 cm
If you want a folded brim, work twice these depths. - Body: Switch to larger needle (US 8 / 5.0 mm) and knit every round (stockinette in the round) until the hat measures from cast-on edge to top:
- Newborn: 4” / 10 cm
- Baby: 5” / 12.5 cm
- Child: 6” / 15 cm
- Teen/S: 7” / 18 cm
- Adult M: 8” / 20.5 cm
- Adult L: 8”–9” / 20.5–23 cm
Stop when you’re ~1.5” / 4 cm from desired total height (you need room for the crown decreases). - Prepare for crown: Place 7 evenly spaced markers around the hat to divide the stitches into 8 sections. To space evenly: divide total stitch count by 8; if there is a remainder, distribute one extra stitch to that many first sections. Example: CO 92 gives 92/8 = 11 remainder 4, so first 4 sections = 12 sts each, last 4 = 11 sts each. This gives even decrease placement.
- Crown decreases (marker-based, easy math): You will decrease 8 sts each decrease round (one k2tog per section). Work as follows until few stitches remain:
- Decrease round: *K to 2 stitches before marker, k2tog, SM* repeat to end of round.
- Even round: Knit all stitches.
Repeat (a) and (b) until approximately 16–12 sts remain (for newborn/baby aim for ~12; for larger sizes aim for ~16). When fabric is small enough to comfortably work on DPNs or your needle tips, switch to DPNs and continue. - Final decreases: With remaining sts, you can speed up decreases by doing knit-two-together across a round: Rnd 1: *k1, k2tog* to end (reduces by roughly one third); Rnd 2: knit. Repeat until 8–10 sts remain. Or continue the marker method until you reach 8 sts.
- Finish: Cut yarn leaving a 6” / 15 cm tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle, draw tail through remaining stitches, pull tight to close top. Secure yarn with a knot inside, weave in all ends neatly on the wrong side.
Optional variations
- Slouch: add 1” to body before decreases.
- Folded brim: work twice the rib depth and fold up; tack down with a few stitches if desired.
- Patterned brim: swap rib for seed stitch or 1x1 rib (CO must be adjusted for 1x1 multiples of 2).
Finishing & blocking
Weave in ends, lightly steam or wet-block to shape if desired. Avoid over-blocking; wool will relax but you usually want the rib to retain elasticity.
Troubleshooting
- Hat too big: go down one needle size or reduce cast-on by one 4-st multiple.
- Hat too small/tight: go up one needle size or add one 4-st multiple to cast-on.
- Gap at crown: tighten decreases when gathering or do an extra decrease round before closing.
Stitch distribution examples (quick reference)
- CO 60: sections = 7–8 (four 8s, four 7s)
- CO 68: sections = 8–9 (four 9s, four 8s)
- CO 76: sections = 9–7 (four 10s, four 9s) — distribute remainders to the first sections as you place markers
- CO 84: sections = 10–4 (four 11s, four 10s)
- CO 92: sections = 12–4 (four 12s, four 11s)
- CO 104: sections = 13‐4 (four 14s, four 13s)
Thanks & support
Pattern care: enjoy and share your makes using #purljam. For questions or errata contact team@verde.uk. More patterns and support at purljam.verde.uk and find us on socials with #purljam.
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