Designer notes: A classic top-down raglan sweater worked seamlessly in the round, with a double-layer (folded) 2x2 rib at the neck, cuffs and hem for warmth and a neat finish. Knit at US 3 needles in fingering weight yarn. Instructions include XS–3X with yardage, needle recommendations, gauge, and step-by-step construction using a provisional cast-on for a clean folded neck.
These finished measurements represent approximately 2–4" (5–10 cm) positive ease over body measurement. Adjust by choosing a different size or changing needles.
32 sts and 40 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch after blocking on US 3 / 3.25 mm needles. Measure gauge in flat stockinette in the round.
Neck circumference (after CO) is calculated to yield a comfortable neckline matching finished measurements and ease. Use the following starting stitch counts (these assume your gauge):
These counts give a finished neckline that will stretch slightly; adjust CO if you prefer a tighter or looser neck.
Using waste yarn and a thin needle or crochet hook, provisionally cast on the number of stitches listed above (see size). Join to work in the round being careful not to twist. Do not knit with waste yarn; the waste yarn will be removed later. Place a removable marker indicating the start of the rnd.
With your US 3 (3.25 mm) 16" circular needle and main yarn, pick up and knit the first stitch from the provisional cast-on into the live working position, then continue to pick up and knit all stitches from the provisional row so that main yarn works the rib. You now have live stitches on your needle (waste yarn still threaded through cast-on edge). Work 2x2 rib (k2, p2) for 1.5" (4 cm) for a modest fold; for a deeper folded collar work 2.25"–3" (6–8 cm). This rib is the inner layer of the folded neck.
After inner rib is complete, continue in this sequence for raglan setup: divide your stitches into four sections separated by markers. Example for M (112 sts): Front 28, Marker, Sleeve 28, Marker, Back 28, Marker, Sleeve 28, Marker. Place markers accordingly.
Pattern round (set up): work in stockinette (knit all sts) following markers. On the next round and every right-side increase round, increase at four raglan points as follows: k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1. This adds 2 sts at each raglan corner (8 sts per increase round).
Work increases every 4th round initially for a clean look, or every 2nd round for a fuller yoke; a common schedule is increase every RS round for 8–12 rounds and then every other round until desired yoke height. Continue until the yoke depth (measured from back neck) reaches your desired underarm depth: typical yoke depth 8" (20 cm) for a standard fit. For reference, you will usually do 12–20 increase rounds depending on desired sleeve and body stitch counts.
When you have reached desired yoke depth (measure from back neck to underarm), on next round do not work the sleeve stitches. Instead place sleeve stitches on holder or waste yarn: slip sleeve sts to holder in pattern, join the front and back body sts and continue to work body in the round. For example: if your current raglan round count per section is Front X sts, Sleeve Y sts, Back X sts, Sleeve Y sts; slip the two sleeve sections onto holders and join body stitches to work in the round.
With body stitches on 32" circular, knit in stockinette until sweater reaches desired length to start hem, measuring from underarm to hem. Typical length options: cropped 16" (41 cm), standard 20" (51 cm), long 24" (61 cm). When 2–3" (5–7.5 cm) remain to desired length, work a folded 2x2 rib hem: knit in stockinette until you have about 2.5"–3" (6–8 cm) available for folding, then work 2x2 rib for the rib depth identical to the cuff/neck rib. Bind off loosely in pattern or leave live and graft later to the inside cast-on edge to form a neat fold. For a double-layer hem: work rib in the round to desired depth, then fold inside and sew graft the live cast edge to the inside of the hem.
Transfer sleeve stitches from holders to needles (dpns or magic loop). Pick up 2 sts at underarm seam if desired to avoid gaps (optional). Join in the round and knit in stockinette until about 1.5" (4 cm) remain to desired sleeve length. Work 2x2 rib for 1.5"–2.5" (4–6 cm), then bind off loosely or leave live and graft to create a folded cuff. For double-layer cuff, work longer rib (e.g., 2.5"–3"), then fold and graft.
When all knitting is complete and ends are woven in except the provisional CO, return to the neck: remove the waste yarn used for provisional cast-on to expose live cast-on stitches. Arrange these live stitches on a needle opposite the live neckline stitches (the row you began raglan increases from). Using Kitchener stitch, graft the live cast-on edge to the live neckline stitches to create a smooth folded 2x2 rib. Work grafting following the rib pattern (graft knit and purl stitches to maintain 2x2 rib pattern). If grafting across 2x2 rib is unfamiliar, you may mattress-stitch the folded brim to the inside for a similar clean effect.
Weave in all loose ends. Block the sweater gently to measurements, focusing on neck and body to even stitches and set rib folds.
Pattern support and questions: email team@verde.uk. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Social: #purljam
Enjoy knitting! If you want this pattern as a printable PDF or with row-by-row counts for a specific size, tell me which size and preferred yoke depth and I’ll generate it.