Classic, slightly relaxed top-down raglan pullover worked in the round. Choose the needles below for a smoother drape or a firmer fabric. Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X). Finished chest circumference and suggested ease are listed under "Sizes & Measurements." This pattern is written for knitting in the round using circular needles and the magic loop (or DPNs/short circulars for sleeves).
Worked top-down with raglan shaping and set-in sleeve length by measuring. Instructions use a single raglan increase method (m1 before and after each raglan marker). Instructions are given in plain-language rows and rounds with optional stitch-count checkpoints. Adjust negative/positive ease by choosing a different finished measurement.
18 stitches and 24 rounds = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette on US 7 (4.5 mm) after blocking. Important: swatch in the round if you will knit the body in the round. Adjust needle size to match gauge.
Finished chest circumference (approx, includes ease): XS 33" (S 37", M 41", L 45", XL 49", 2X 53", 3X 57"). Sleeve length and body length guidance appear in the instructions so you can lengthen/shorten to taste.
The pattern is designed for approximately 1–3" positive ease depending on size and yarn. If you prefer a looser fit, go up a needle size or add 2–4" to finished chest. If you prefer closer fit, subtract similar amounts.
Using smaller needles (US 5 / 3.75 mm) CO 56 (58, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76) sts using your preferred circular CO. Join carefully being careful not to twist. PM to indicate beginning of round.
Work 1x1 rib (K1, P1) or 2x2 rib (K2, P2) as desired for 1"–1.5" (2.5–4 cm) for a neat neckline. Switch to larger needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm).
Set raglan markers and divide like this: place markers to divide the round into four sections (neck front, sleeve1, back, sleeve2). If you CO 56, place markers after every 14 sts; if different CO, space markers equally (CO total ÷ 4 = sts per section).
Raglan increase round (repeat): *K to 1 st before next marker, m1, SM, m1; repeat from * for each marker around. After working the increases, knit the round without increases (i.e., work a plain round) if you prefer increases every other round; many knitters do: Increase Round, Work Round; repeat those two rounds. This method adds 8 sts every increase round cycle (increase round + plain round = 8 sts every two rounds).
Continue raglan increase pairs until you have reached the yoke depth measured from the base of the neck: approximately 7.5–9.5" (19–24 cm) depending on size and shoulder slope. Specific yoke depth by size (suggested starting points): XS 7.5" / S 8" / M 8.5" / L 9" / XL 9.25" / 2X 9.5" / 3X 9.5". Try on as you go if possible: when you put it on, sleeves will be long tubes; measure to the underarm (where you want the seam) and stop when comfortable.
Checkpoint: When you stop raglan increases, you will have equal stitch counts in each raglan section. These are the counts that will end up on each sleeve when you put them on holders.
On next round, place sleeve stitches on waste yarn or stitch holders: slip the sleeve section stitches (the two sections allocated to sleeves) onto holders—leave the body sections on the needles. Place a marker at each underarm location. For each underarm, CO 8 (8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts (adjust this cast-on to change the underarm opening; fewer sts gives a tighter underarm, more sts gives more ease) using a stretchy provisional/knitted cast-on or a backward loop cast-on. Join body stitches in the round and continue to work body.
Work in stockinette (knit all rounds) until body measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18) inches / 38 (39, 41, 42, 43, 44.5, 45.5) cm from underarm, or desired length to hem. Shape waist or add simple decreases if you want a fitted waist (optional). For hem, switch to smaller needles and work ribbing 1"–1.5" (2.5–4 cm). Bind off loosely in pattern.
Transfer sleeve sts from waste yarn to needles. Pick up the underarm CO sts and distribute evenly (example: sleeve sts + underarm CO). Place marker for beginning of round.
Work in stockinette in the round, decreasing (optional) to shape: for a tapered sleeve, decrease 0–8 sts evenly along sleeve length (k2tog or ssk) spaced every 1.5–3" (4–8 cm) until you reach desired bicep/forearm fit. Typical sleeve length: 17–19" (43–48 cm) from underarm for long sleeves. For 3/4-length sleeves, work 12–15" (30–38 cm).
When sleeve measures desired length, switch to smaller needles and work ribbing 1"–1.5" (2.5–4 cm). Bind off loosely in pattern.
- Want a slouchier neckline: make ribbing shorter and use larger needle for ribbing. - Want more positive ease: add 2–4" (5–10 cm) to finished chest and re-calculate increases by working more increase rounds before separating sleeves. - Want colorwork yoke: work color pattern after ribbing before raglan increases or incorporate stripes into the yoke increases (maintain increase points).
Use your actual gauge to calculate exact numbers. Example: gauge 18 sts = 4" (4.5 st/in); to get finished chest 41" → 41 x 4.5 = 184 total stitches for body circumference. At raglan separation those 184 stitches are distributed to front+back plus any underarm COs; if you want 8 sts under each underarm then two sleeve sections will take the rest and each section size must be set so all numbers are divisible as needed. If you want us to calculate an exact stitch count table for your gauge and desired measurements, contact support at team@verde.uk.
Block fibers per yarn manufacturer recommendations. Many wool/ blends are hand wash cold and lay flat to dry; check yarn label for specifics.
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Enjoy your knitting! If you want a version of this pattern with exact stitch counts for your specified gauge and measurements, reply with your gauge (sts per 4"/10 cm) and your preferred finished chest and sleeve measurements and I will calculate the full stitch-by-stitch table.