Designer notes: This is a top-down, raglan-shaped cardigan worked in the round for the yoke and body, with sleeves worked in the round. The body and sleeves use UK treble (UK tr = US double crochet) as the main fabric. The neck and button bands are worked in UK double crochet (UK dc = US single crochet) using the through-back-loop method to create a vertical ribbed effect. Work a gauge swatch in the main stitch before you begin; adjust hook for correct gauge.
In pattern stitch (UK treble, worked in rounds): 14 sts x 6 rounds = 4\" (10 cm) using 6.0 mm hook (adjust to match). If your gauge differs, change hooks and re-calculate counts according to the technique below.
1) Work a short ribbed neck band in UK dc tbl around a foundation chain to form a fitted collar. Join and work a few rounds to create the collar.
2) Switch to UK trebles to work the raglan yoke in the round. Place 4 raglan markers (four increases around) and increase at those 4 points on every increase round (pattern uses a (tr, ch2, tr) increase at each raglan marker). Each increase round adds 8 sts total. Continue increasing until yoke depth (center-back to underarm) reaches desired depth. Do not rely only on round count; measure against body or a well-fitting sweater.
1) Make a foundation chain to fit the base of the neck. For a men\'s 48\" chest aim for an initial neck opening of ~19\"–20\" circumference (closed collar measurement around base of neck). This is adjustable; sample start chain: ch 64. (If your gauge differs, chain length = neck circumference in inches x tr sts per inch for a starting chain converted to dc ribs — you will be working dc tbl; chain should be even.)
2) Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist. Place marker for beg of round.
3) Round 1 (RS): Work UK dc into each chain around, join. (Work UK dc tbl from Round 2 to create the rib.)
4) Rounds 2–7: Work UK dc tbl in each st around, join. Finish collar; you should have a short folded rib that sits nicely at the neck. Change to main hook if desired for the body (treble hook).
1) Round 1 (set-up round): With main hook (6.0 mm sample) and RS facing, join yarn with a uk tr into any stitch (or use chainless start), ch2 (counts as tr), work tr across neck stitches evenly placing 4 markers to form raglan markers. We recommend placing markers as follows: 1) center back marker, 2) left underarm marker, 3) center front marker (right side of opening), 4) right underarm marker. For a cardigan you need two front panels: where the front opening will be you will not join at the center front — instead place a marker there and later you\'ll leave a gap for the button band. Alternatively work the yoke in one continuous round with 4 raglan points positioned so that when you split for sleeves the front opening will lie between the two front markers. (See the splitting instruction below.)
2) For an easier numbering system: Think of the yoke as four sections: front-left, sleeve-left, back, sleeve-right, front-right. Place markers at each raglan corner so increases are worked at 4 locations.
Increase round (repeat): At each raglan marker work (tr, ch2, tr) into the stitch before/at the marker to create the raglan corner and chain-2 space; move marker to the ch2 sp. Between raglans work tr in each stitch across.
Notes: Every increase round adds 8 sts (two trebles per raglan). Work increase rounds until yoke depth measured from center back to underarm equals 9–10\" (23–25 cm) for a typical men\'s fit. If you prefer deeper raglan (for longer sleeves or more slope), go to 11–12\" (28–30 cm). Sample used 9.5\" (24 cm).
Because yarn, tension and desired ease vary, do not rely solely on an exact number of rounds. Instead: lay the yoke flat and measure from center back neck to underarm (along the slope of the shoulder). When you reach desired depth, stop increasing and prepare to split for sleeves and body.
When you stop increasing, you will have 4 raglan ch-2 spaces that mark separation points. Work one round without increases so that all raglan ch-2 spaces are visible and your markers are accurate.
Next round (separation round): Work tr across front-left section to first raglan ch-2, work the ch-2 as usual and now slip or change to waste yarn to hold sleeve-left sts: work the sleeve-left section into a separate piece of waste yarn or removable holder (sl st to waste yarn and remove). Continue with the back section tr in rounds, then hold sleeve-right sts on waste yarn, then work across front-right to the front opening edge. For the front opening, you will leave those front sts live for the body. Essentially you remove two sleeve sections to hold, and leave the body sts (front+back) live on your main hook to continue around the torso in the round.
Stitch allocation example (approximate, adjust to fit): If, after stopping increases, you have X total sts around the yoke measured by your gauge, remove two equal sleeve groups of approx 40–60 sts each depending on desired sleeve circumference. The remaining stitches become your body circumference. Aim for body circumference (stitches left) to equal target chest circumference in stitches: chest inches x sts per inch from your gauge.
With sleeve sts on hold, join across body sts and work in joined rounds of UK tr to desired length. Sample: Work even in tr in rounds until body measures 28\" (71 cm) from shoulder to hem (or desired length). If you want a hem rib, stop about 2\" (5 cm) before desired length and switch to UK dc tbl rib for 2\" to make a neat cuffed hem. Fasten off and weave ends.
Transfer each held sleeve group back to your hook, join to work in the round. Work even in tr for length from underarm to desired sleeve length (sample 18\" / 46 cm). For a ribbed cuff work 8–10 rounds of UK dc tbl (through-back-loop) to make a snug cuff. Adjust for puffiness or taper by decreasing evenly around the last few inches if you want a tapered sleeve.
Button bands: With RS facing and working from bottom up (or from top down depending on preference), pick up stitches along the entire front edge with a tapestry needle or work directly: join yarn at hem corner and work UK dc tbl (through-back-loop) evenly up the front edge to the neck. Work 6–8 rounds of UK dc tbl to form a stable ribbed band (these rows create the vertical ribs). For the buttonhole band, on the right front (wearer\'s right) make buttonholes spaced evenly: On an odd-numbered round make buttonhole spaces by chaining an appropriate number (ch2 or ch3 depending on button size) and skipping the same number of sts on the previous band row; on the next round work uk dc tbl across the ch space to set the hole edges.
Buttons: For a 48\" chest we recommend 6–7 buttons. Place the bottom button approx 2\" up from hem, top button approx 1\"–1.5\" below the collar, spacing evenly between. Try on and check spacing before sewing.
Gauge sample: 14 sts/6 rounds = 4\" (10 cm) in UK tr on sample hook (6.0 mm). To calculate required stitches for chest: chest inches x (sts per inch from your swatch) = number of stitches you need around the body after you separate sleeves. Plan your sleeve allocation and continue increases in yoke until you can remove sleeve sts and have this number left for the body.
This pattern uses UK terms and provides US equivalents in parentheses in the abbreviations section. Sizes: chest is given in inches and metric cm.
If you need a written row-by-row numeric recipe for a different gauge or want this pattern graded to multiple sizes, reply with your gauge reading (sts/4\" in UK tr) and desired alternate chest sizes and I\'ll produce a graded chart and precise stitch counts.
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