Totoro Jumper — Top-Down Raglan Sweater with Totoro Intarsia
A cozy, wearable Totoro jumper worked in worsted/aran weight yarn from the top down with raglan shaping. Body is knit in the round to the underarms, then separated for the front and back; the Totoro belly/face is knit using intarsia for large shapes and duplicate stitch for small details (eyes/whiskers) to keep colorwork tidy. Sizes given: Small (34"/86.5cm), Medium (38"/97cm), Large (42"/107cm), X-Large (46"/117cm) chest circumference (finished). Designed to have ~2–4"/5–10cm positive ease over actual chest measurement; adjust needle size to match gauge if necessary.
Finished Measurements
- Small: 34” / 86.5 cm
- Medium: 38” / 97 cm
- Large: 42” / 107 cm
- X-Large: 46” / 117 cm
Gauge
18 sts x 24 rows = 4"/10 cm in stockinette on larger needles (after blocking). Always swatch in the round for body gauge.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted/Aran weight (US 4). Typical skein: 100 g = approx 200 yards / 183 meters. Colors: Main Grey (G), Light Cream (C), Dark Grey (D), Black (B), White (W).
- Yardage (approx): Small: 900 yds / 825 m; Medium: 1100 yds / 1005 m; Large: 1250 yds / 1140 m; X-Large: 1400 yds / 1280 m. (Totals include all colors: body + intarsia + trims.)
- Needles: Use needles to obtain gauge.
- Body / larger needles: US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm
- Smaller needles for ribbing and tighter gauge: US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm
- Optional: Circulars in lengths 16”/40 cm (for small circumference at neck) and 24”/60 cm+ or 32”/80 cm for working the body in the round; set of DPNs or long circular for magic loop can be used for sleeves.
- Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, scrap yarn bobbins or small balls for intarsia, waste yarn for provisional cast-on if using exposed neck join, stitch holders or waste yarn, scissors, blocking tools.
Abbreviations
- K: knit
- P: purl
- k2tog: knit 2 together
- ssk: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- CO: cast on
- BO: bind off
- M1R / M1L: make one right / left
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
- pm: place marker
- sm: slip marker
- tbl: through back loop
- yo: yarn over
Notes
- This pattern is top-down raglan; raglan increases are made every right-side round at 4 raglan increase points.
- Intarsia: For the Totoro belly and large grey/cream blocks, use standard intarsia technique with separate bobbins/small balls. Twist yarns at color joins to avoid holes. Keep floats short and tidy on the wrong side. For small details (eyes, whiskers, pupils), work in duplicate stitch after finishing knitting for cleaner detail and simpler shaping.
- Measurements for armhole depth and sleeve length are adjustable; instructions give suggested lengths and stitch counts at which to bind off for sleeves and body separation.
Cast On & Yoke (Top-Down Raglan)
Work in the round. Cast on using smaller needles (US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm) for a neater neck. Use a stretchy cast-on (long-tail or tubular provisional) if you want a rolled or folded neck edge.
CO and setup:
- CO 56 (60, 64, 68) sts using smaller needles for the neck. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker for beginning of round.
- Work 1x1 rib (k1, p1) or 2x2 rib for 1.25" / 3 cm (or up to 2" / 5 cm if you want a taller collar).
- Change to larger needles (US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm). Begin raglan increases.
Raglan increase setup: Place 4 raglan markers evenly by placing markers after these stitches to divide sections: front, sleeve, back, sleeve.
Example counts after joining small rib and switching to larger needles (counts assume even distribution):
- RS marker positions: Front: 20 (24, 28, 32) sts, Sleeve: 10 (10, 12, 12) sts, Back: 20 (24, 28, 32) sts, Sleeve: 10 (10, 12, 12) sts. (These are approximate and will change as you increase.)
Raglan increase rounds (all sizes):
- Work 1 round even in stockinette (knit all sts).
- Next and every alternate round: *k to 1 st before raglan marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L, k to next marker* repeat around (4 increases per round). On the rounds between, knit all stitches. Continue alternating increase round / even round until you have the following total number of stitches BEFORE dividing for sleeves:
- Small: stop when total is 136 sts
- Medium: 152 sts
- Large: 168 sts
- X-Large: 184 sts
These totals give approximate chest circumference matching the finished measurements above at gauge.
Separate Body and Sleeves
When you reach the target total stitch count, place sleeve stitches on holders and join body in the round.
Example method: Slip sleeve stitches (including raglan markers) to waste yarn or holders: slip sleeve sts to needle/waste yarn, then join body sts and continue knitting body in the round.
Body with Totoro Motif (Front Intarsia)
Work body in stockinette in the round on larger needles. The Totoro motif will be worked on the front panel only (centered). Decide how far below the neck you want Totoro to sit; sample: begin motif ~ 10" / 25 cm from underarm (place a marker on the front center before you start intarsia).
Placement and stitch counts:
- Front stitch count (after separation): approx 40 (44, 48, 52) sts centered between raglans. You will work the intarsia motif across these center front stitches and a portion of the surrounding stitches as needed for shaping. If your front is wider, center motif within the front panel.
Totoro belly/face schematic (simplified): Work intarsia blocks for the large cream belly shape and the grey body background. Because complex facial details are small, knit them as simple shapes or add later with duplicate stitch.
Intarsia tips:
- Create bobbins or small balls for each separate block of color; for multiple small islands of the same color, use separate bobbins to avoid long floats.
- When changing color, twist yarns once to anchor and prevent holes: bring new color under old color then continue knitting.
- Keep stitch counts even on each row/round as you work the color blocks; you may need to chart the motif to your stitch gauge for precise placement. A simple 32-st wide by 36-row high motif charts well at this gauge—if you want a larger Totoro, increase stitch counts and proportionally change yarn amounts.
Suggested simple intarsia chart (interpreted to your stitch counts):
Row numbers increase downward. Use G=Main Grey, C=Cream, D=Dark Grey.
Columns left to right = approx 32 stitches wide for medium. Center this across front.
Top rows: mostly G
Rows 12-28: shape cream belly C as an oval in center
Add D for triangular chest markings (three V-shaped marks)
Finish with G background.
After completing intarsia area, continue knitting the rest of the body in the round until desired body length from underarm: 18"/46 cm (or shorter/longer to preference). For standard length, stop 2"/5 cm above desired hem, switch to smaller needles and work 1.5–2"/4–5 cm of ribbing, then bind off loosely.
Sleeves
Pick up sleeve stitches from holders onto needles (use DPNs or magic loop). Join in the round and place marker for beginning of round.
Sleeve shaping: Work in stockinette and decrease for tapered sleeve if desired.
- Knit even until sleeve measures 1.5"/4 cm less than desired finished length.
- To taper, decrease 1 stitch each side of round every 6th-8th round until sleeve reaches approx 40”/100 cm circumference (adjust for personal fit), or continue even for a looser sleeve.
- Switch to smaller needles and work 1.5–2"/4–5 cm ribbing, then bind off loosely.
Totoro Details (Duplicate Stitch)
For eyes, pupils, whiskers, and small mouth details, work duplicate stitch after the jumper is complete and blocked. Use a tapestry needle and follow a small chart or photograph for placement. Use White for eye sockets, Black for pupils and whiskers, and Dark Grey for additional markings if desired.
- Eyes: two oval white stitches approximately 6–8 sts apart (centered on face); pupils in black placed in the lower-center of each white oval.
- Whiskers: three short black horizontal lines on each cheek, placed symmetrically. Duplicate stitch gives crisp lines without disrupting intarsia float structure.
Finishing
- Weave in all ends from intarsia carefully, using a blunt tapestry needle. Secure bobbin ends individually.
- Block the jumper to measurements: soak gently in lukewarm water with wool wash, squeeze out excess water, lay flat and pin to measurements. Allow to dry completely.
- Neck finishing: If you used provisional CO, pick up neck stitches and knit a neat rib or folded neck as desired. Alternatively, pick up stitches around neck and work 1.25–2" / 3–5 cm rib and bind off loosely.
- Sew sleeve seams if you worked flat somewhere; otherwise seam underarm if necessary and tidy raglan joins.
Sizing Adjustments and Customizing
- Want a chunkier Totoro? Use a heavier yarn (bulky) and larger needles; re-swatch and rechart the motif at your new gauge.
- To enlarge motive: increase the number of stitches for the front panel and rescale the chart; copy and enlarge by multiplying stitches horizontally and rows vertically to maintain proportions.
- For a simpler approach: skip intarsia and knit the body in one color, then embroider Totoro with duplicate stitch or appliqué felt pieces sewn on afterward.
Troubleshooting
- Gaps at intarsia joins: twist yarns tightly at color changes and make sure there's no kink. If a hole appears, weave in a small scrap of yarn behind the gap and tack down with tapestry needle.
- Unruly floats or puckering: work duplicate stitch for tiny details instead of carrying floats; ensure gauge matches and block gently to even stitches.
Notes on Copyright & Fan-Made Items
This is a fan-made, non-commercial pattern for a jumper inspired by a popular character. Do not use images or logos owned by third parties if selling finished items; if you sell finished garments, credit inspiration appropriately and follow local laws regarding intellectual property. (This note is informational; pattern instructions themselves are original.)
Pattern support & contact: For help with the pattern or errata, contact team@verde.uk. Pattern hosted at https://purljam.verde.uk. Share finished projects with #purljam on social platforms.