Yes — I can. Here's exactly how we turn a photo into a crochet graphgan and what I need from you to do it for you.

Quick answer

Yes. I can convert a photo into a crochet chart (graphgan) that maps each pixel to one stitch and gives you row-by-row instructions. To do a finished pattern I need the photo plus a few decisions (finished size, yarn weight, stitch type, color limit). Below is the complete step-by-step workflow, materials and a template I use to produce a clean, usable graphgan.

What I need from you to make a finished chart

• High-resolution photo (JPEG/PNG). Prefer simple, high-contrast image for best results.
• Finished size (width × height in inches or cm) or desired number of stitches across.
• Yarn weight and typical skein size you want to use (or tell me to suggest yarn).
• Stitch choice: tapestry single crochet (US single crochet / UK double crochet), mosaic, or intarsia-style panels.
• Maximum number of colors you want in the final graph (I recommend 6–12 for blankets; fewer colors is easier).

If you upload the photo and give those details I will convert it to a stitch chart and give you a row-by-row pattern, colour key, yarn estimate method, finishing notes and a printable PDF/PNG chart.

Recommended materials (examples and conversions)

Yarn: I usually design graphgans for worsted/aran (Medium/US 4) or DK (Light/US 3). Typical yardage per 100 g (approx):

• Fingering (sock): ~400–450 yds / 366–411 m per 100 g
• Sport: ~300–350 yds / 274–315 m per 100 g
• DK: ~225–300 yds / 205–275 m per 100 g
• Worsted / Aran (Medium/US 4): ~200–220 yds / 183–201 m per 100 g
• Bulky: ~100–150 yds / 91–140 m per 100 g

Hook / Needle sizes (common conversions):

• 2.25 mm = US B-1 = UK 13
• 2.75 mm = US C-2 = UK 12
• 3.25 mm = US D-3 = UK 11
• 3.5 mm = US E-4 = UK 10
• 3.75 mm = US F-5 = UK 9
• 4.0 mm = US G-6 = UK 8
• 4.5 mm = US 7 = UK 7
• 5.0 mm = US H-8 = UK 6
• 5.5 mm = US I-9 = UK 5
• 6.0 mm = US J-10 = UK 4
• 6.5 mm = US K-10.5 = UK 3
• 8.0 mm = US L-11 = UK 1

My usual recommendation for tapestry crochet with worsted is US I-9 / 5.5 mm (UK 5). For DK I often use US H-8 / 5.0 mm (UK 6). Always swatch and check gauge.

Gauge guidance (tapestry single crochet)

Common tapestry SC gauge with worsted on a 5.5 mm hook: roughly 3.5–4 single crochet stitches per inch across, and about 3.5–4 rows per inch vertically (varies with yarn and tension). Because stitches are rectangular, gauge horizontally vs vertically can differ; measure both directions and adjust image pixel aspect ratio when creating the chart.

Decide chart density (pixel = stitch)

You choose either:

• An explicit stitch count across (e.g., 140 stitches wide); I will resize the photo to that width in stitches and produce the matching height to keep aspect ratio (or you choose height in inches/rows).
• An inch-based finished size (I will calculate stitches using your gauge).

Step-by-step: how I convert your photo to a crochet chart

1. Prepare the image: crop to the area you want and remove unnecessary background details.
2. Adjust contrast/levels to improve silhouette and key features. Prefer simple strong shapes for best results.
3. Pixelate / resize the image to the target stitch width in pixels. For example, if you want 140 stitches across, resize the image to 140 pixels wide. I account for vertical/horizontal stitch ratio when resizing so faces don’t look squashed.
4. Reduce colors (posterize or k-means palette reduction) to your max color count (I recommend 6–12). Replace very similar shades by hand to increase contrast where needed.
5. Clean the pixel art: tidy single stray pixels and redefine edges so sections of colour are continuous; this makes crocheting easier.
6. Export the pixel grid as a chart (PNG and printable PDF). I label each colour with a number/letter and provide a yarn colour match suggestion.
7. Create row-by-row instructions: for tapestry SC in rows I give counts, color changes, and alternate-row reading directions; for intarsia I give panel layout and joining instructions.

Software & tools I use (you can too)

• Stitch Fiddle (web) or Crochet Charts—great for manual editing after auto-conversion.
• Photoshop/GIMP: resize, posterize, reduce colors, and pixelate.
• Pic2Pat / Pixel Stitch: quick automatic conversions useful for inspiration.

Color & palette tips

• Limit colors: 6–12 is manageable, more than 12 becomes heavy on yarn changes and floats.
• Choose tones with clear contrast rather than many similar values.
• Replace gradients with stepped bands of color to keep the chart readable.

Working the chart: tapestry single crochet (recommended)

1. Each pixel = 1 single crochet (US) worked across in rows.
2. Read the chart right-to-left for odd rows (RS), left-to-right for even rows (if you work in rows). I will mark row numbers and give counts per run to speed crocheting.
3. Carry floats on the wrong side: keep floats loose and catch every 3–4 sts max to avoid long loose floats.
4. Use bobbins for frequent color changes or carry colours when sections are wide; use small balls for spots of color to avoid tangles.

Alternative techniques

• Mosaic or mosaic-like filet techniques (less colorwork per row) but they change the look and require pattern-specific tweaks.
• Intarsia / modular joining if floats would be too long (creates seams joining blocks).

Finishing & blocking

• Weave in ends on the back as you go to avoid a huge finish pile.
• Block the finished piece gently to even edges and slightly relax distortions (follow yarn care instructions).

Yarn estimate method (accurate)

I don’t estimate blanket yardage purely by formulas because yarn thickness and stitch density vary. Instead I use a practical swatch method:

1. Choose your exact yarn and hook.
2. Make a 10 cm × 10 cm (4” × 4”) swatch in tapestry single crochet using the same color changes you expect.
3. Count stitches horizontally and rows vertically in the swatch to get stitches per inch and rows per inch.
4. Weigh the swatch on kitchen scales (grams) or measure yards used in the swatch.
5. Scale up: Yarn needed = (area of finished item / area of swatch) × yarn used for swatch. This gives a reliable yardage in yards/meters.

Example calculation (quick)

Desired finished size: 36” × 48”. If your gauge is 4 sts/in × 4 rows/in then you need 144 sts × 192 rows. After you’ve made and weighed a swatch you scale as above to estimate yards/grams of yarn.

What I’ll deliver if you ask me to convert your photo

• Printable chart PNG and PDF (grid with colour key and numbered rows).
• Row-by-row written instructions (counts and color-change cues).
• Yarn palette suggestions (approx matches) and a yarn-estimate method with numbers based on your swatch.
• Techniques & finishing notes (how to manage floats, weave ends, and block).

How to proceed

1. Upload the photo here and tell me: finished width (inches or cm), yarn weight you want to use (or allow me to recommend), stitch type (tapestry SC recommended), and max colors.
2. I will prepare a draft pixel conversion and share a preview so you can request edits (reduce colours, emphasis on features, crop).
3. When you approve I will produce the final printable chart and written pattern.

If you want, paste a direct link to the photo or attach it. Once I have the image and the few choices above I’ll return a draft chart for your approval.

Contact & shop

Website: https://purljam.verde.uk
Support: team@verde.uk
Socials: #purljam

Note: I only provide pattern & conversion services; I won’t provide non-pattern-related edits to images beyond adjustments needed for a clear crochet chart.

Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.

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