purlJam

# ADVANCED TOP-DOWN SOCKS

## PATTERN INFORMATION

**Skill Level:** Advanced

**Sizes:** Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large)
- **Foot Circumference:** 18 (20, 23, 25) cm / 7 (8, 9, 10) inches
- **Foot Length:** Adjustable; sample shown in 23 (25, 28, 30) cm / 9 (10, 11, 12) inches

**Finished Measurements:** 
Socks are designed to be worn with 2.5 cm / 1 inch negative ease for optimal fit.

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Fingering weight (4-ply) sock yarn
- **Yardage Required:** 350 (400, 450, 500) metres / 383 (437, 492, 547) yards
- **Sample shown in:** [Your preferred fingering weight sock yarn]
- **Fibre Content:** Superwash wool/nylon blend recommended for durability

**Needles:** 
- 2.25mm (UK 13, US 1) double-pointed needles or size needed for long circular for magic loop
- Set of 5 DPNs or 1 long circular (80-100 cm) for magic loop method

**Notions:**
- Stitch markers (4)
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Waste yarn or stitch holder
- Cable needle (optional, for advanced stitch patterns)

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## TENSION (GAUGE)

**32 stitches and 44 rounds = 10 cm / 4 inches in stocking stitch (stockinette stitch), worked in the round, blocked**

**Important:** Achieving correct tension is critical for proper fit. Take time to swatch and adjust needle size if necessary. Sock knitting requires a firm, dense fabric for durability.

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## PATTERN NOTES

- These socks are worked from the cuff down with a traditional heel flap and gusset construction
- The pattern includes instructions for a decorative ribbed cuff and optional travelling stitch panel down the leg
- A reinforced heel flap is included for durability
- You may use DPNs or the magic loop method; stitches are divided into four sections
- The pattern is written for one sock; repeat all instructions for the second sock

**Stitch Distribution:**
- Needles 1 & 2 (or first half of circular): Front of leg/instep stitches
- Needles 3 & 4 (or second half of circular): Back of leg/heel/sole stitches

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **k** = knit
- **p** = purl
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **k2tog** = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **p2tog** = purl 2 stitches together
- **yo** = yarn over
- **sl** = slip stitch purlwise with yarn in back unless otherwise stated
- **wyif** = with yarn in front
- **psso** = pass slipped stitch over
- **m1L** = make 1 left (lift bar between stitches from front to back, knit through back loop)
- **m1R** = make 1 right (lift bar between stitches from back to front, knit through front loop)
- **pm** = place marker
- **sm** = slip marker
- **C4F** = cable 4 front (slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in front, k2, k2 from cable needle)
- **C4B** = cable 4 back (slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in back, k2, k2 from cable needle)
- **T3F** = twist 3 front (slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in front, p1, k2 from cable needle)
- **T3B** = twist 3 back (slip 1 st to cable needle, hold in back, k2, p1 from cable needle)

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## SPECIAL STITCH PATTERNS

### Twisted Rib (worked in the round over multiple of 4 sts)

**Round 1:** *K2 through back loop, p2; repeat from * to end
Repeat Round 1 for pattern

### Travelling Cable Panel (worked over 16 sts)

**Round 1:** P2, k2, p8, k2, p2
**Round 2:** P2, T3F, p6, T3B, p2
**Round 3:** P3, k2, p6, k2, p3
**Round 4:** P3, T3F, p4, T3B, p3
**Round 5:** P4, k2, p4, k2, p4
**Round 6:** P4, T3F, p2, T3B, p4
**Round 7:** P5, k2, p2, k2, p5
**Round 8:** P5, T3F, T3B, p5
**Round 9:** P6, C4F, p6
**Round 10:** P5, T3B, T3F, p5
**Round 11:** P5, k2, p2, k2, p5
**Round 12:** P4, T3B, p2, T3F, p4
**Round 13:** P4, k2, p4, k2, p4
**Round 14:** P3, T3B, p4, T3F, p3
**Round 15:** P3, k2, p6, k2, p3
**Round 16:** P2, T3B, p6, T3F, p2
**Round 17:** P2, k2, p8, k2, p2
**Round 18:** P2, k2, p8, k2, p2

Repeat Rounds 1-18 for pattern

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### CUFF

Using your preferred cast-on method (Turkish cast-on, long-tail, or German twisted cast-on recommended), cast on **56 (64, 72, 80)** stitches.

Divide stitches evenly across needles:
- If using DPNs: 14 (16, 18, 20) sts per needle
- If using magic loop: 28 (32, 36, 40) sts on each half

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker for beginning of round.

**Rounds 1-15:** Work Twisted Rib pattern for 4 cm / 1.5 inches (approximately 15 rounds)

### LEG

**For Plain Leg Version:**

Continue in stocking stitch (knit all stitches every round) until leg measures 15 (16, 18, 19) cm / 6 (6.25, 7, 7.5) inches from cast-on edge, or desired length to top of heel.

**For Decorated Leg Version (Advanced):**

**Set-up Round:** 
- **Size S:** K20, pm, work Round 1 of Travelling Cable Panel over 16 sts, pm, k20
- **Size M:** K24, pm, work Round 1 of Travelling Cable Panel over 16 sts, pm, k24
- **Size L:** K28, pm, work Round 1 of Travelling Cable Panel over 16 sts, pm, k28
- **Size XL:** K32, pm, work Round 1 of Travelling Cable Panel over 16 sts, pm, k32

**Continue as established:**
Work in pattern (knit sts before and after cable panel, work cable panel as charted) until you have completed 2 full repeats of the 18-round cable pattern, or until leg measures approximately 15 (16, 18, 19) cm / 6 (6.25, 7, 7.5) inches from cast-on edge.

**Note:** End having just completed Round 18 of cable pattern for a neat finish before the heel.

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### HEEL FLAP

The heel flap is worked flat, back and forth in rows, over half the total stitches.

**Set-up:**
Redistribute stitches if necessary so that the back 28 (32, 36, 40) stitches are on one needle/half of circular. These are your heel stitches. The remaining 28 (32, 36, 40) stitches will be held for the instep and not worked during the heel flap.

**Heel Flap (worked over 28 (32, 36, 40) sts):**

**Row 1 (RS):** *Sl 1 wyib, k1; repeat from * to end of heel stitches
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1 wyif, purl to end

Repeat Rows 1-2 a total of **14 (16, 18, 20)** times, then work Row 1 once more.

You should have **29 (33, 37, 41)** rows total, ending with a RS row.

The slipped stitch edge creates chain stitches along each side; count **14 (16, 18, 20)** chain stitches on each side.

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### TURN HEEL

Continue working on heel stitches only.

**Row 1 (WS):** Sl 1, p15 (18, 20, 22), p2tog, p1, turn
**Row 2 (RS):** Sl 1, k5 (7, 7, 7), ssk, k1, turn
**Row 3:** Sl 1, p6 (8, 8, 8), p2tog, p1, turn
**Row 4:** Sl 1, k7 (9, 9, 9), ssk, k1, turn
**Row 5:** Sl 1, p8 (10, 10, 10), p2tog, p1, turn
**Row 6:** Sl 1, k9 (11, 11, 11), ssk, k1, turn

Continue in this manner, working one more stitch before the decrease on each row, until all heel stitches have been worked, ending with a RS row.

**Heel stitches remaining:** 16 (20, 22, 24) stitches

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### GUSSET

**Pick-up Round:**

With RS facing and working heel stitches:

1. Knit across all 16 (20, 22, 24) heel stitches
2. With the same needle, pick up and knit **15 (17, 19, 21)** stitches along the left edge of the heel flap (pick up one stitch in each chain stitch edge plus one extra stitch in the corner)
3. With next needle(s), work across 28 (32, 36, 40) held instep stitches (if working cable pattern, continue in pattern; if plain, knit all stitches)
4. With next needle, pick up and knit **15 (17, 19, 21)** stitches along the right edge of heel flap
5. Knit across first 8 (10, 11, 12) heel stitches (this is now the new beginning of round)

Place marker for new beginning of round.

**Stitch Count:** 74 (86, 98, 106) sts total
- Needle 1: 23 (27, 30, 33) sts
- Needles 2-3 (instep): 28 (32, 36, 40) sts
- Needle 4: 23 (27, 30, 33) sts

**Gusset Decreases:**

**Round 1:**
- Needle 1: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needles 2-3: Work instep stitches in pattern (continue cable panel if working decorated version, or knit if working plain version)
- Needle 4: K1, ssk, k to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches (maintaining instep pattern if working cable)

Repeat Rounds 1-2 a total of **9 (11, 13, 13)** times.

**Stitch Count after gusset decreases:** 56 (64, 72, 80) sts
- 28 (32, 36, 40) sole stitches (Needles 1 & 4)
- 28 (32, 36, 40) instep stitches (Needles 2 & 3)

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### FOOT

Continue working even with no decreases:
- Work sole stitches (Needles 1 & 4) in stocking stitch
- Work instep stitches (Needles 2 & 3) in stocking stitch or continue cable pattern

Continue until foot measures **18 (20, 23, 25)** cm / 7 (8, 9, 10) inches from back of heel, or approximately 5 cm / 2 inches less than desired finished length.

**Note:** Try on sock to check length. The toe decreases will add approximately 5 cm / 2 inches.

If working cable panel on instep, you may complete the current pattern repeat or transition to stocking stitch for the toe section.

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### TOE

**Round 1 (Decrease Round):**
- Needle 1: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: K1, ssk, k to end
- Needle 3: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 4: K1, ssk, k to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches

Repeat Rounds 1-2 **six (seven, eight, nine)** more times. 
**[28 (32, 36, 40) sts remain]**

Then work Round 1 (decrease round) only **4 (5, 6, 7)** more times.
**[12 (12, 12, 12) sts remain]**

**Final Rounds:**

**Next Round:** K to end of Needle 1

Slip stitches from Needle 4 to Needle 1, and stitches from Needle 3 to Needle 2.
You now have 6 sts on each of two needles, with sole stitches on one needle and instep stitches on the other.

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### FINISHING

Cut yarn, leaving a 30 cm / 12 inch tail.

Using Kitchener stitch (grafting), graft toe stitches together:

**Kitchener Stitch Instructions:**

Set-up: 
- Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on front needle, leave stitch on needle
- Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle, leave stitch on needle

Repeat the following steps:
1. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle, slip stitch off
2. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through next stitch on front needle, leave stitch on needle
3. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle, slip stitch off
4. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through next stitch on back needle, leave stitch on needle

Continue until all stitches are grafted.

Weave in all ends securely, using duplicate stitch method on WS of fabric for durability.

Block socks by washing in wool wash, rolling in a towel to remove excess water, and laying flat to dry or using sock blockers.

Make second sock to match.

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## DESIGN VARIATIONS

**Striped Version:** 
Work stripes in complementary colours throughout leg and foot. Suggested sequence: *4 rounds Colour A, 4 rounds Colour B*, or create your own stripe pattern. Work heel flap and toe in main colour for durability.

**Ribbed Version:**
Instead of stocking stitch on leg, work k2, p2 rib throughout for enhanced stretch and texture.

**Ankle Socks:**
Shorten leg section to 8-10 cm / 3-4 inches from cast-on edge.

**Knee Highs:**
Continue leg section for 30-40 cm / 12-16 inches, adding calf shaping if desired by working decreases every 8-10 rounds along the back leg seam.

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## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Hand wash in cool water with wool wash. Roll in a towel to remove excess moisture, then lay flat to dry. Do not wring or twist. Do not tumble dry unless yarn label specifically indicates it is safe to do so.

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## ABBREVIATIONS REFERENCE

For quick reference while working:
- k = knit