purlJam

---

# 🦎 AMIGURUMI AXOLOTL
### Advanced Crochet Pattern

---

## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

Axolotls (*Ambystoma mexicanum*) are beloved for their feathery external gills, wide flat heads, perpetual smiles, and tiny stubby legs. This advanced amigurumi captures all of those features in approximately 8–9 inches (20–23 cm) of squishy, huggable charm. The most technically challenging elements are the branched gill stalks — take your time with those and the rest of the pattern will feel rewarding.

**Difficulty:** Advanced
**Finished Size:** Approx. 8–9 inches (20–23 cm) nose to tail tip; 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm) tall at the gills

---

## MATERIALS

| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| **Main Color (MC)** | Worsted weight (size 4) yarn — pale pink or peach, approx. 150 yds (137 m) |
| **Contrast Color A (CA)** | Worsted weight — medium pink or magenta, approx. 40 yds (37 m) — gills & fin edges |
| **Contrast Color B (CB)** | Worsted weight — white or cream, approx. 20 yds (18 m) — belly (optional) |
| **Hook** | US E-4 / 3.5 mm (go one size down from yarn label for tight amigurumi gauge) |
| **Safety Eyes** | 12 mm black safety eyes, 1 pair |
| **Stuffing** | Polyester fiberfill, approx. 2–3 oz (60–85 g) |
| **Yarn Needle** | Blunt tapestry needle for assembly |
| **Stitch Markers** | At least 2 locking stitch markers |
| **Pins** | T-pins or straight pins for positioning parts before sewing |
| **Scissors** | Sharp embroidery scissors |
| **Optional** | Pink embroidery floss for smile; small amounts of felt for gill texture |

---

## GAUGE

**5 sc × 5.5 rounds = 1 × 1 inch (2.5 × 2.5 cm)**
Gauge is important for amigurumi — a tighter fabric prevents stuffing from showing through. If your gauge is too loose, go down another hook size.

> **Gauge Note:** At this gauge, the magic ring starting with 6 sc produces a circle approx. ¾ inch (2 cm) in diameter after Round 1.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **sc** | single crochet |
| **inc** | increase — 2 sc in the same stitch |
| **dec** | invisible decrease — insert hook in FLO of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops |
| **sl st** | slip stitch |
| **ch** | chain |
| **MR** | magic ring (adjustable ring) |
| **FLO** | front loop only |
| **BLO** | back loop only |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **rnd(s)** | round(s) |
| **[ ]** | stitch count at end of round |
| **( )** | repeat instructions within parentheses |
| **MC** | main color |
| **CA** | contrast color A |
| **CB** | contrast color B |

---

## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Magic Ring (MR)
Make a loop with yarn, insert hook through loop, draw up a loop, ch 1 to secure. Work stitches into the ring, then pull the tail to close the center hole.

### Invisible Decrease (dec)
*This creates a neater decrease than a standard sc2tog.*
Insert hook through the **front loop only** of the next stitch, then through the **front loop only** of the following stitch (2 front loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through both front loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through both loops. Counts as 1 stitch.

### Working in Continuous Spiral
Do **not** join rounds with a slip stitch (unless the pattern specifically says to). Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work. This creates a seamless spiral.

### Color Changes
When changing color mid-round or at end of a round: work the last stitch of the old color until 2 loops remain on hook, then use the new color to complete the stitch (yarn over and pull through both loops with new color).

### Branched Gill Stalks *(Unique to this pattern)*
Each gill stalk is a short chain tube with three "finger" branches worked directly off the main stalk — see the detailed Gill Stalk section for step-by-step instructions.

---

## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

This axolotl is constructed in separate pieces and assembled:

1. **Head/Body** — one continuous elongated piece (worked head-first)
2. **Four Legs** — short stubby tubes
3. **Dorsal Fin** — flat piece along the back
4. **Tail Fin** — flat pointed piece
5. **Gill Stalks (×6)** — three per side, each with three branches
6. **Assembly & Finishing**

> **Recommended Order:** Make legs and gill stalks while the head/body is drying if you use any blocking, or make them between body sections to keep motivated!

---

## PART 1: HEAD/BODY

*The axolotl's head is characteristically wide and flat, flowing into a slightly narrower cylindrical body. We achieve this by building a wide oval, keeping several even rounds, then gently narrowing for the body, then the tail taper.*

**Yarn:** MC (pale pink)

### HEAD SECTION

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. Pull tail to close. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [18]

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [24]

**Rnd 5:** (3 sc, inc) around. [30]

**Rnd 6:** (4 sc, inc) around. [36]

**Rnd 7:** (5 sc, inc) around. [42]

**Rnds 8–10:** Sc in each st around. [42] *(3 even rounds — creates the wide, flat head)*

> **⚠️ Advanced Shaping Note:** Axolotl heads are wider than they are tall. As you work rounds 8–10, you can gently flatten the piece with your fingers between rounds. The amigurumi fabric is forgiving while it's unstuffed.

**Rnd 11:** (5 sc, dec) around. [36]

**Rnd 12:** Sc in each st around. [36]

> **👁️ SAFETY EYE PLACEMENT — Do this NOW before continuing.**
> With the piece flat and the starting magic ring at the front (nose), position the 12 mm safety eyes **between Rounds 7 and 8**, spaced **10 stitches apart** across the widest part of the face (approximately at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions when viewed from the front). The eyes should sit slightly toward the front of the head, not on the sides.
> Push the shanks through the fabric and secure the washers firmly on the inside.

**Rnd 13:** (4 sc, dec) around. [30]

**Rnd 14:** Sc in each st around. [30]

*Begin stuffing the head firmly now. Continue adding stuffing as you work.*

**Rnd 15:** (3 sc, dec) around. [24]

**Rnd 16:** Sc in each st around. [24]

---

### BODY SECTION

*We increase back out slightly to create the body, which is wider than the neck.*

**Rnd 17:** (3 sc, inc) around. [30]

**Rnd 18:** (4 sc, inc) around. [36]

**Rnd 19:** (5 sc, inc) around. [42]

**Rnds 20–26:** Sc in each st around. [42] *(7 even rounds — body length)*

*Stuff the body firmly as you work. The axolotl should feel dense and hold its shape.*

---

### BODY TAPER & TAIL SECTION

*The body narrows gradually toward the tail.*

**Rnd 27:** (5 sc, dec) around. [36]

**Rnd 28:** Sc in each st around. [36]

**Rnd 29:** (4 sc, dec) around. [30]

**Rnd 30:** Sc in each st around. [30]

**Rnd 31:** (3 sc, dec) around. [24]

**Rnd 32:** Sc in each st around. [24]

**Rnd 33:** (2 sc, dec) around. [18]

**Rnd 34:** Sc in each st around. [18]

*Add final stuffing now — stuff all the way to the tail taper firmly.*

**Rnd 35:** (Sc, dec) around. [12]

**Rnd 36:** Dec around. [6]

**Finishing the tail:** Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Using a yarn needle, weave the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in end securely.

> **✅ Stitch Count Check — Head/Body Complete:**
> Rnd 7: 42 sts ✓ | Rnd 11: 36 sts ✓ | Rnd 13: 30 sts ✓ | Rnd 15: 24 sts ✓
> Rnd 19: 42 sts ✓ | Rnd 27: 36 sts ✓ | Rnd 29: 30 sts ✓ | Rnd 33: 18 sts ✓ | Rnd 36: 6 sts ✓

---

## PART 2: LEGS (Make 4)

*Axolotl legs are short, stubby, and slightly wider at the "foot." Each leg has a small toe suggestion worked at the tip.*

**Yarn:** MC

### TOE END (worked first)

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Rnd 3:** BLO sc in each st around. [12] *(This creates a slight ridge that suggests the foot/toe division)*

### LEG TUBE

**Rnds 4–11:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(8 rounds — creates approx. 1.5 inch / 4 cm leg)*

*Stuff the leg lightly — just enough to give it a little firmness. Axolotl legs shouldn't be stuffed hard; they look better slightly floppy.*

**Rnd 12:** (Sc, dec) around. [8]

*Do NOT close the leg. Leave the opening for sewing to body. Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) sewing tail.*

> **✅ Stitch Count Check — Legs:**
> Rnd 2: 12 sts ✓ | Rnd 12: 8 sts ✓ (open end for attachment) ✓

---

## PART 3: DORSAL FIN

*The axolotl has a continuous dorsal fin running from behind the head down the back to the tail. We create this as a flat crocheted strip with a wavy top edge, worked in two colors.*

**Yarn:** MC for base; CA for edge

*The fin is worked flat (back and forth in rows), not in rounds.*

**Foundation chain:** Using MC, ch 31.

**Row 1 (RS):** Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. Turn. [30 sc]

**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [30]

*Change to CA at end of Row 2 (on final pull-through).*

**Row 3 (Fin Top Edge — RS):** Ch 1, working across the top edge only, work the following wave pattern:
*(Sc, ch 3, sc) in first st* — this creates the first wave peak.
Then: *(3 sc, ch 3, sc)* × 7 times across, sc in last st. Turn.

> **Note on Row 3:** This creates 8 wave peaks along the top of the fin. The chain-3 loops give the fin its organic, wavy appearance characteristic of axolotl dorsal fins. Adjust the number of waves if your gauge differs significantly.

**Finishing the fin:** Cut CA, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Weave in end. With MC, work a row of slip stitches along the bottom foundation chain edge to stabilize it for sewing. Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) sewing tail.

> **Fin Dimensions:** Approx. 6 inches (15 cm) long × 1 inch (2.5 cm) tall at widest point.

---

## PART 4: TAIL FIN

*The tail fin is a flat, pointed oval that attaches at the tail end of the body, giving the axolotl its characteristic paddle tail.*

**Yarn:** MC for base; CA for edge

*Worked flat, back and forth.*

**Foundation chain:** Using MC, ch 11.

**Row 1:** Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 ch, 3 sc in last ch (this creates the pointed tip). Now working back along the other side of the foundation chain: sc in next 8 sts, inc in last st. [22]

**Row 2:** Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, dec, sc in next 2 sts (the center 3-sc tip becomes sc, sc), dec, sc in next 8 sts. [20]

**Row 3:** Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec, sc in next 7 sts. [18]

**Row 4:** Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec, sc in next 6 sts. [16]

*Cut MC. Join CA.*

**Edging Row:** With CA, work sc evenly around the entire outer edge of the tail fin, working 3 sc in the pointed tip. Join with sl st to first sc. Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) sewing tail.

> **Tail Fin Dimensions:** Approx. 2.5 inches (6.5 cm) wide × 1.5 inches (4 cm) tall.

---

## PART 5: GILL STALKS (Make 6 total — 3 per side)

*This is the most advanced section of the pattern. Each gill stalk is a short cylindrical tube from which three "branches" extend. The branches are created using a detached chain-and-sc technique directly off the main stalk.*

*Take your time here — these are what make your axolotl unmistakable!*

**Yarn:** CA for all gill stalks

---

### GILL STALK SIZES

Make the three stalks on each side in graduated sizes for a natural look:

| Stalk | Name | Height |
|---|---|---|
| Back stalk | Tallest | ~1.5 in (4 cm) |
| Middle stalk | Medium | ~1.25 in (3 cm) |
| Front stalk | Shortest | ~1 in (2.5 cm) |

---

### INSTRUCTIONS FOR ONE GILL STALK (Repeat for all 6, adjusting round count for size)

**BASE:**

**Rnd 1:** MR, 4 sc in ring. [4]

**Rnds 2–7 (Tall stalk) / 2–6 (Medium) / 2–5 (Short):** Sc in each st around. [4]
*(The stalk is a narrow 4-stitch tube. Stuff very lightly with just a wisp of fiberfill, or leave unstuffed for soft bendable gills.)*

**Mark the 4 stitches at the top of the stalk.** Do not fasten off yet.

---

### ADDING BRANCHES TO THE STALK

*Each stalk gets 3 branches — one growing from the center top and one from each side. Branches are worked as detached chain loops that are then reinforced with slip stitches.*

**Branch 1 (Center Top):**
- With yarn still attached at the top of the stalk, ch 8.
- Sl st back down the chain: sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each of next 6 ch (back to stalk). [7 sl sts]
- Sl st into the top of the stalk to anchor. The branch points straight up.

**Branch 2 (Left Side):**
- Sl st to the next st of the stalk top.
- Ch 7.
- Sl st back down the chain: sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each of next 5 ch. [6 sl sts]
- Sl st into stalk to anchor. This branch angles to the left.

**Branch 3 (Right Side):**
- Sl st to the next st (or the following st for spacing) of the stalk top.
- Ch 7.
- Sl st back down the chain: sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each of next 5 ch. [6 sl sts]
- Sl st into stalk to anchor. This branch angles to the right.

**Finishing the stalk:**
Cut CA, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) sewing tail. Weave in the small ends at the branch tips. The sewing tail at the base will be used to attach the stalk to the head.

> **🎨 Advanced Embellishment Option:** For extra feathery texture, cut 1-inch (2.5 cm) lengths of CA yarn, fold in half, and use a crochet hook to attach them as fringe along each branch. Trim the ends to ½ inch (1.3 cm) and fluff. This gives the gills a truly feathery, organic look.

> **✅ Gill Stalk Check:** Each stalk should have exactly 3 branches extending from the top. Branches should be 1–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) long. Verify all 6 stalks are complete before moving to assembly.

---

## ASSEMBLY

*Gather all pieces: 1 head/body, 4 legs, 1 dorsal fin, 1 tail fin, 6 gill stalks.*
*Use T-pins to position everything before sewing. Step back and check the overall silhouette.*

---

### STEP 1: ATTACH LEGS

**Front legs:** Position the two front legs on the underside of the body, between Rounds 19–21 (just behind where the body widens from the neck). The legs should point slightly forward and downward. Space them so the open ends of the legs are approximately 6–8 stitches apart on the underside.

**Back legs:** Position the two back legs on the underside of the body, between Rounds 25–27 (just before the body begins to taper toward the tail). Space them 6–8 stitches apart.

**Sewing:** Thread the 12-inch (30 cm) sewing tail onto a yarn needle. Using whip stitch, sew around the opening of each leg to the body, ensuring the leg is attached securely at all points of the opening. Weave end through the body and knot invisibly.

> **⚠️ Important:** Pull firmly on each leg after sewing to test security. Legs are a safety concern — they must be very firmly attached.

---

### STEP 2: ATTACH DORSAL FIN

**Position:** Lay the dorsal fin along the top of the body (spine line), with the wavy CA edge pointing upward and the straight MC edge against the body. The fin should start just behind the gill stalks (approximately at Round 20) and run toward the tail, ending approximately at Round 32.

**Sewing:** Thread the sewing tail onto a yarn needle. Whip stitch along the entire bottom edge of the fin, stitching through each stitch of the fin base and catching the body stitches beneath. This is a long seam — take your time to keep it straight.

---

### STEP 3: ATTACH TAIL FIN

**Position:** The tail fin attaches vertically at the very end of the body (where you closed Round 36). Center it so it creates a vertical paddle shape at the tail.

**Sewing:** Using the CA sewing tail, whip stitch the straight top edge of the tail fin to the last few rounds of the body. Reinforce with a second pass of stitching for security.

---

### STEP 4: ATTACH GILL STALKS

*This step requires patience — gill placement is what gives your axolotl its personality!*

**Positioning:** Place all 6 stalks along the sides of the HEAD (not the body) — 3 on the left side, 3 on the right side. The stalks should fan out from approximately Rounds 8–12 of the head, positioned between the safety eyes and the start of the neck decrease.

**Arrangement on each side (front to back):**
- Shortest stalk: just behind the eye line (approximately at the 2 o'clock position on the right side, 10 o'clock on the left)
- Medium stalk: directly behind the shortest (middle position)
- Tallest stalk: farthest back, closest to the neck

**Sewing:** Thread the 10-inch (25 cm) sewing tail onto a yarn needle. Push the needle through the base of the stalk and through 2–3 stitches of the head fabric, then bring it back through the stalk base. Repeat 4–5 times, changing the angle of your stitches each time to create a firm "X" pattern of stitching at the base. The stalk should not wobble when you touch it.

> **Tip:** For extra stability, you can add a small drop of fabric glue inside the stalk base before attaching. Let it cure fully before allowing the toy to be handled.

---

### STEP 5: EMBROIDER THE SMILE

*Axolotls have a famously happy, wide smile — this is one of their most endearing features.*

**Using pink embroidery floss (or CA yarn split to 2 plies):**
- Thread yarn needle with a 24-inch (60 cm) length of floss.
- Bring needle up from inside the head to the surface approximately 3 stitches below the left eye.
- Work a curved backstitch smile: create a gentle U-shape approximately 6 stitches wide and 2 stitches deep, ending 3 stitches below the right eye.
- For a wider, "happier" smile, extend to 8 stitches wide.
- Bring needle back inside the head and knot securely.

**Optional:** Add two small straight stitch "cheek blush" marks below each eye using the same floss.

---

### STEP 6: FINAL DETAILS & CHECKS

**Weave in all remaining ends** securely. Thread each end through 3–4 different directions inside the piece before trimming.

**Safety check:**
- [ ] Safety eyes are fully secured with washers
- [ ] All 4 legs are firmly attached (cannot be pulled off)
- [ ] All 6 gill stalks are firmly attached
- [ ] Dorsal fin is fully stitched along its base
- [ ] Tail fin is firmly attached
- [ ] No loose yarn ends are accessible from the outside

**Fluff the gills:** Gently stretch the branch chains outward with your fingers to open them up. If you added fringe, use a fine-tooth comb or pet slicker brush to gently brush the fringe for a fluffy effect.

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | Imperial | Metric |
|---|---|---|
| Total length (nose to tail) | 8–9 inches | 20–23 cm |
| Body width (widest point) | 3–3.5 inches | 7.5–9 cm |
| Height at gills | 3.5–4 inches | 9–10 cm |
| Leg length | ~1.5 inches | ~4 cm |
| Tallest gill stalk (incl. branches) | ~2.5 inches | ~6.5 cm |

---

## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Reshape while damp and air dry flat. Do not machine wash or dry, as this may damage safety eyes or cause felting if the yarn contains wool.

---

## PATTERN NOTES FOR ADVANCED MAKERS

**Want to make it larger?** Substitute bulky weight (size 5–6) yarn and a US H-8 / 5 mm hook. Your finished axolotl will be approximately 11–12 inches (28–30 cm) long.

**Want more color variation?** Real axolotls come in leucistic (white/pink), wild-type (dark with iridescent flecks), golden albino, and melanoid (black) morphs. Try:
- **Leucistic:** White MC, pink CA for gills
- **Golden Albino:** Gold MC, orange CA
- **Melanoid:** Dark gray MC, black CA, no shiny detail
- **Wild-type:** Use a variegated brown/black yarn for MC, add small French knot spots with a contrast color after assembly

**Displaying your axolotl:** These make wonderful shelf companions. If you want yours to "sit up," sew the front legs slightly more forward so it can prop itself up on them.

---

## QUICK REFERENCE — STITCH COUNTS AT A GLANCE

**Head/Body:**
Rnds 1–7: 6 → 12 → 18 → 24 → 30 → 36 → 42
Rnds 8–10: 42 (even)
Rnd 11: 36 | Rnd 12: 36 | Rnd 13: 30 | Rnd 14: 30 | Rnd 15: 24 | Rnd 16: 24
Rnd 17: 30 | Rnd 18: 36 | Rnd 19: 42
Rnds 20–26: 42 (even)
Rnd 27: 36 | Rnd 28: 36 | Rnd 29: 30 | Rnd 30: 30 | Rnd 31: 24 | Rnd 32: 24
Rnd 33: 18 | Rnd 34: 18 | Rnd 35: 12 | Rnd 36: 6

**Legs (each):**
Rnds 1–2: 6 → 12
Rnds 3–11: 12 (even)
Rnd 12: 8 (open end)

---

*Happy crocheting! Tag your finished axolotl on social media — these little salamanders never fail to make people smile. 🦎💕*

---