purlJam

<pattern>

# AUTUMN LEAVES VEST
## Waist-Length Open Front Vest with Bobble Trim

A sophisticated intermediate-level vest featuring reverse stockinette stitch as the main fabric, elegant leaf and stem motifs on the front panels, and charming bobble details around all trim edges. The crew collar and gently rounded front panels create a flattering, modern silhouette perfect for layering.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight yarn (#4 Medium)
- Main Color (MC): 650 (750, 850, 950) yards
- Contrast Color (CC) for leaf motifs: 50 yards (all sizes)

**Yarn Suggestion**: Cascade 220 or similar worsted weight at approximately 220 yards per 100g

**Machine**: Standard gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine
- Brother/Silver/Artisan, Singer/Studio, or equivalent
- Pattern suitable for both punchcard and electronic machines

**Notions**:
- Waste yarn and ravel cord for cast-on
- Cast-on comb and weights
- Transfer tools
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch markers
- Blocking wires or pins
- Steam iron

---

## SIZES

Small (Medium, Large, X-Large)

**Finished Measurements**:
- Bust: 36 (40, 44, 48)" / 91.5 (101.5, 112, 122) cm
- Length from shoulder: 19 (20, 21, 22)" / 48 (51, 53, 56) cm
- Shoulder width: 14 (15, 16, 17)" / 35.5 (38, 40.5, 43) cm

**Recommended Ease**: 2-4" positive ease

---

## GAUGE/TENSION

**Tension Dial**: T6 for MC in reverse stockinette stitch
**Tension Dial**: T5 for CC in stockinette motifs
**Tension Dial**: T7 for bobbles

**Gauge**: 5.5 sts and 7.5 rows = 1" (2.5 cm) in reverse stockinette at T6

**CRITICAL**: Knit a swatch at T6, allowing knit side to face back. Measure after light steam blocking. Adjust tension dial if needed to match gauge.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

- **RC** = Row Counter
- **COL** = Carriage on Left
- **COR** = Carriage on Right
- **T** = Tension dial setting
- **MC** = Main Color
- **CC** = Contrast Color
- **HP** = Holding Position (needles in hold)
- **WP** = Working Position (needles knitting)
- **Rev St st** = Reverse Stockinette stitch (purl side as right side)
- **St st** = Stockinette stitch (knit side as right side)
- **sts** = stitches
- **MB** = Make Bobble

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Reverse Stockinette Orientation**: The purl side (side facing you as you knit) is the RIGHT SIDE of this garment. All RC counts and shaping instructions reference this orientation.

2. **Leaf Motif Application**: Motifs are knitted intarsia-style with CC yarn in stockinette stitch against the reverse stockinette background. This creates raised leaf designs.

3. **Bobble Technique**: Bobbles are created after knitting is complete by picking up a stitch, knitting several rows in a small section, then gathering. Full instructions provided in techniques section.

4. **Rounded Front Shaping**: Lower front edges use hold/partial knitting to create gentle curves.

5. **Machine Setup**: Set carriage for normal knitting (no slip, tuck, or holding patterns active unless specified).

6. **Seaming**: Use mattress stitch or backstitch for shoulder and side seams, working on wrong side (knit side).

---

## STITCH PATTERNS

### Reverse Stockinette Stitch (Main Fabric)
- Set carriage for normal knitting at T6
- Knit every row; purl side faces you (right side)
- Naturally curls opposite to regular stockinette

### Stockinette Motif (Leaf Design)
- Use CC yarn at T5
- Knit side creates raised design against reverse stockinette
- Follow Chart A for leaf placement

---

## MOTIF CHARTS

### CHART A: LEAF AND STEM MOTIF (15 sts × 25 rows)

Place this motif centered on each front panel, with bottom of stem 3" (23 rows) from cast-on edge.

```
Row 25: □□□□□□■□□□□□□□□
Row 24: □□□□□■■■□□□□□□□
Row 23: □□□□■■■■■□□□□□□
Row 22: □□□■■■□■■■□□□□□
Row 21: □□■■■□□□■■■□□□□
Row 20: □□■■□□□□□■■□□□□
Row 19: □■■■□□□□□■■■□□□
Row 18: □■■□□□□□□□■■□□□
Row 17: ■■■□□□□□□□■■■□□
Row 16: ■■□□□□□□□□□■■□□
Row 15: ■■□□□□□□□□□■■□□
Row 14: □■■□□□□□□□■■□□□
Row 13: □■■■□□□□□■■■□□□
Row 12: □□■■□□□□□■■□□□□
Row 11: □□■■■□□□■■■□□□□
Row 10: □□□■■■□■■■□□□□□
Row 9:  □□□□■■■■■□□□□□□
Row 8:  □□□□□■■■□□□□□□□
Row 7:  □□□□□□■□□□□□□□□
Row 6:  □□□□□□■□□□□□□□□
Row 5:  □□□□□□■□□□□□□□□
Row 4:  □□□□□□■□□□□□□□□
Row 3:  □□□□□□■□□□□□□□□
Row 2:  □□□□□□■□□□□□□□□
Row 1:  □□□□□□■□□□□□□□□
```

**Key**: 
- □ = MC (Main Color - background in reverse stockinette)
- ■ = CC (Contrast Color - leaf in stockinette stitch)

**Reading the Chart**:
- Read odd rows (RS rows) from right to left
- Read even rows (WS rows) from left to right
- Chart shows 15 stitches wide × 25 rows tall
- Each square represents one stitch
- Work CC stitches in stockinette (knit on RS, purl on WS for machine this means using CC yarn with same tension)

**Placement Instructions**:
- Center motif on each front panel
- For Size S: Center of 50-st panel = place chart starting at stitch 18
- For Size M: Center of 55-st panel = place chart starting at stitch 20
- For Size L: Center of 60-st panel = place chart starting at stitch 23
- For Size XL: Center of 65-st panel = place chart starting at stitch 25
- Begin motif at RC 23 (approximately 3" from cast-on)

**Machine Knitting Notes for Motif**:
1. Use intarsia technique: manually lay CC yarn across needles showing ■ symbols
2. Twist yarns at color changes to prevent holes
3. Or: Use a second yarn feeder if your machine has one, manually selecting needles for CC
4. The CC stitches will appear raised (stockinette) against the reverse stockinette background

---

## TECHNIQUES

### Make Bobble (MB)
Bobbles are added after main knitting is complete:

1. On finished edge, identify bobble placement point
2. With latch tool and T7 yarn, pick up a single stitch from edge
3. Place stitch on any needle in center of machine
4. Cast on 4 additional stitches (2 on each side) = 5 sts total
5. Set tension to T7, knit 6 rows
6. RC will show +6
7. COR: Using transfer tool, stack all 5 stitches onto center needle
8. Knit 1 row - this secures the bobble
9. Remove from machine, thread yarn through all loops, pull tight
10. Secure yarn end on wrong side (knit side) of fabric
11. Bobble appears as a rounded bump on right side (purl side)

**Bobble Spacing**: Place bobbles every 2" (11 sts or 15 rows) around all edges

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK PANEL

**Setup**:
- Using waste yarn and ravel cord, cast on **99 (110, 121, 132)** sts
- Arrange needles in work: every needle
- Hang cast-on comb and weights

**Main Body**:
- Set tension dial to T6, MC yarn
- RC 000, COL
- Knit 8 rows waste yarn + ravel cord
- RC 008, COR: Begin MC yarn
- Knit in reverse stockinette (purl side facing you is RS)
- **RC 090 (100, 110, 120)**, COR: Begin armhole shaping

**Math Check**: 
- Size M: 110 sts ÷ 5.5 sts/inch = 20" ✓
- RC 100 ÷ 7.5 rows/inch = 13.3" to armhole ✓

**Armhole Shaping**:
- RC 090 (100, 110, 120), COR: Bind off 5 (6, 7, 8) sts at beginning of next 2 rows
  - COL: Push 5 (6, 7, 8) needles at right to HP, knit to left →
  - COR: Push 5 (6, 7, 8) needles at left to HP, knit to right →
  - Remove HP needles from machine
  - **89 (98, 107, 116) sts** remain

- Decrease 1 st each side every other row 4 times:
  - *COR: Put 1 needle at left edge to HP, knit to right
  - COL: Put 1 needle at right edge to HP, knit to left*
  - Repeat * to * 3 more times
  - **81 (90, 99, 108) sts** remain

**Math Check** (Size M): 
- Started with 110 sts
- Bound off 6 × 2 = 12 sts
- Decreased 4 × 2 = 8 sts
- 110 - 12 - 8 = 90 sts ✓

- **RC 150 (162, 174, 186)**, continue straight in reverse stockinette

**Shoulder Shaping**:
- **RC 150 (162, 174, 186)**, COR: Begin shoulder shaping
- Bind off **7 (8, 9, 10) sts** at beginning of next 6 rows:
  - *COR: Push 7 (8, 9, 10) needles at left to HP, knit to right
  - COL: Push 7 (8, 9, 10) needles at right to HP, knit to left*
  - Repeat * to * 2 more times (total 6 bind-offs)
  
- **39 (42, 45, 48) sts** remain for back neck

**Math Check** (Size M):
- 90 sts - (8 × 6) = 90 - 48 = 42 sts remain ✓

- **RC 156 (168, 180, 192)**: Remove remaining sts on waste yarn for back neck

---

### LEFT FRONT PANEL

**Setup**:
- Using waste yarn and ravel cord, cast on **50 (55, 60, 65) sts**
- Arrange needles in work: every needle
- Hang cast-on comb and weights

**Rounded Lower Edge (Hold Button Shaping)**:
- Set tension dial to T6, MC yarn
- RC 000, COL
- Knit 8 rows waste yarn + ravel cord
- RC 008, COR: Begin MC yarn

- Set carriage to HOLD (holding cam lever engaged)
- **Rounded shaping**