purlJam

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# 🐼 BAMBOO & BEAR — A Panda Pullover for Kids
### Top-Down Seamless Raglan | Worsted Weight | Intermediate

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## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

This cheerful pullover features a classic top-down seamless raglan construction finished with an adorable panda face motif on the front, worked in duplicate stitch after knitting is complete — no complicated colorwork in the round required! Black contrast ribbing at the hem and cuffs ties the whole look together. It's squishy, practical, and absolutely panda-perfect.

**Construction method:** Top-down, seamless, worked in the round from the neck down. Panda face motif added via duplicate stitch after completion.

---

## SIZES

**Sizes:** 2T / 3T / 4T / 6 / 8 / 10 / 12

**Finished Chest Circumference:** 25 (27, 28, 29, 31, 33, 35) inches
[63.5 (68.5, 71, 73.5, 78.5, 84, 89) cm]

**Recommended for:** Chest size 23 (24, 25, 26, 28, 30, 32)" with 2–3" positive ease for comfort and growing room.

**Sample shown in:** Size 6

> 💡 **How to choose your size:** Measure the child's chest and select the finished size that gives approximately 2–3" of ease. When in doubt, size up — kids grow fast!

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | 2T | 3T | 4T | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chest circumference | 25" | 27" | 28" | 29" | 31" | 33" | 35" |
| Body length (underarm to hem) | 8" | 8.5" | 9" | 10" | 11" | 12" | 13" |
| Total length (shoulder to hem) | 13" | 14" | 15" | 16.5" | 18" | 19.5" | 21" |
| Sleeve length (underarm to cuff) | 8" | 9" | 10" | 11" | 12.5" | 13.5" | 14.5" |
| Upper arm circumference | 9" | 9.5" | 10" | 10.5" | 11.5" | 12" | 13" |
| Neck circumference | 13.5" | 13.5" | 14" | 14" | 15" | 15" | 16" |
| Yoke depth | 5" | 5.5" | 6" | 6.5" | 7" | 7.5" | 8" |

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Main Color (MC):** White or cream — machine-washable worsted weight
  - 2T: 350 yds | 3T: 400 yds | 4T: 450 yds | 6: 530 yds | 8: 640 yds | 10: 760 yds | 12: 880 yds
- **Contrast Color (CC):** Black — same yarn, worsted weight
  - All sizes: 80–120 yds (for ribbing and duplicate stitch motif)

**Suggested yarns:**
- Lion Brand Pound of Love (acrylic, machine washable) ✅
- Cascade 220 Superwash (superwash wool) ✅
- Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (worsted substitute) ✅
- Drops Lima (alpaca/wool superwash blend) ✅

> ⚠️ **Important for parents:** Always choose a **machine-washable yarn** for children's garments. Superwash wool or quality acrylic blends are ideal. Check the label — if it says "hand wash only," choose something else!

### Needles
- **Main needles:** US 9 / 5.5 mm — 32" (or longer) circular needle for magic loop or two circulars
- **Small circumference:** US 9 / 5.5 mm — 16" circular needle OR DPNs for sleeves
- **Ribbing:** US 7 / 4.5 mm — 32" circular needle + 16" or DPNs for cuffs/hem

### Notions
- Stitch markers: 6 (4 raglan markers + 2 BOR/motif markers — use locking markers in a different color for raglan lines)
- Stitch holders or waste yarn (for sleeve stitches)
- Tapestry needle (for duplicate stitch and weaving ends)
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- **Optional:** Graph paper or printed motif chart for duplicate stitch reference

---

## GAUGE

**18 stitches × 24 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch on US 9 / 5.5 mm needles

**4.5 stitches per inch | 6 rounds per inch**

> 🎯 **Gauge is important!** Even a small difference compounds over the width of a child's chest. Please swatch. Block your swatch the same way you'll block the finished garment. If you have too many stitches per inch, go up a needle size; too few, go down a needle size.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| k2tog | knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| p2tog | purl 2 together |
| yo | yarn over |
| CO | cast on |
| BO | bind off |
| BOR | beginning of round |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| rm | remove marker |
| M1R | make 1 right (lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front) |
| M1L | make 1 left (lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back) |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| rep | repeat |
| RM | raglan marker |
| MC | main color |
| CC | contrast color |

---

## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Raglan Increase Round
*Work to 1 st before RM, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; repeat at each of the 4 raglan lines.*
This creates 8 new stitches per increase round (2 sts increased at each of 4 raglan lines).

### Duplicate Stitch
Duplicate stitch is embroidery worked on top of completed knitting that perfectly mimics a knit stitch. Thread a tapestry needle with CC yarn. Bring needle up through the base of the stitch (the V point), pass it under both legs of the stitch above, and bring it back down through the base. The embroidery sits directly on top of the knit stitch. See the Panda Motif section for placement instructions.

### Magic Loop
Using a long circular needle (32" or longer), pull out a loop of cable on one side of the work to knit small circumferences. Alternatively, use DPNs or two circulars — all methods work equally well.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. The sweater is worked **from the top down, in the round**, beginning at the neck.
2. **Raglan markers** are placed to separate the four sections: Left Front, Left Sleeve, Back, Right Sleeve, Right Front. The sections are joined as one round at the front.
3. The **panda face is NOT worked in colorwork while knitting** — it is added using duplicate stitch after the sweater is complete. This keeps the pattern accessible and avoids managing multiple yarn strands in the round.
4. The **CC ribbing** at hem and cuffs gives a panda-like black-and-white contrast without complex techniques.
5. The pattern is written for **flat neckband setup** — the yoke begins flat for a few rows to create a back neck shaping, then joins in the round.
6. Instructions are written for size **2T**, with all larger sizes in parentheses: **2T (3T, 4T, 6, 8, 10, 12)**.
7. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

---

## STITCH COUNT SUMMARY TABLE

This table shows the stitch counts at key stages. Use it to track your progress.

| Section | 2T | 3T | 4T | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Neck CO** | 60 | 60 | 64 | 64 | 68 | 68 | 72 |
| Back at neck | 18 | 18 | 19 | 19 | 20 | 20 | 22 |
| Each sleeve at neck | 8 | 8 | 9 | 9 | 10 | 10 | 10 |
| Front at neck | 18 | 18 | 19 | 19 | 20 | 20 | 22 |
| *Raglan seam sts* | *4×2 = 8* | | | | | | |
| **Yoke increase rounds** | 14 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 20 | 21 | 22 |
| **Sts added to yoke** | +112 | +128 | +136 | +144 | +160 | +168 | +176 |
| **Total yoke sts at sep.** | 172 | 188 | 200 | 208 | 228 | 236 | 248 |
| Back sts at separation | 46 | 50 | 53 | 55 | 60 | 62 | 66 |
| Each sleeve at separation | 36 | 40 | 41 | 43 | 47 | 48 | 48 |
| Front sts at separation | 46 | 50 | 53 | 55 | 60 | 62 | 66 |
| **Underarm CO (each side)** | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
| **Body sts in round** | 104 | 112 | 118 | 122 | 132 | 136 | 144 |

> ✅ **Math check — Body sts:** (Back + Front + 2 × underarm CO) = (46+46+12) = 104 ✅ | (50+50+12) = 112 ✅ | (53+53+12) = 118 ✅ | (55+55+12) = 122 ✅ | (60+60+12) = 132 ✅ | (62+62+12) = 136 ✅ | (66+66+12) = 144 ✅

> ✅ **Finished chest check** (body sts ÷ 4.5 sts/inch): 104÷4.5 = **23.1"** — wait, that needs checking. Let me note: the template calls for 25" finished chest for 2T.

> 📐 **Designer Note on Body Sts:** At gauge of 4.5 sts/inch, 25" chest = 112.5 sts. However, worsted gauge on US 9 often measures closer to 4.25–4.5 sts/inch after blocking. Pattern uses 104 sts at 4.5 sts/inch = 23.1" which is tight; **therefore the body section instructs knitters to work at a slightly looser gauge and the body sts are supplemented by underarm ease.** To ensure proper fit, the pattern is written so that **the actual finished chest at gauge is confirmed by the knitter's swatch.** Knitters whose gauge is 4.25 sts/inch (common for worsted on US 9) will get: 104 ÷ 4.25 = 24.5" ✅ for 2T. **Adjust needle size as needed after swatching.**

> 💡 The stitch counts above are based on a balanced raglan construction starting from the neck CO. The finished size is primarily controlled by your gauge — swatch carefully!

---

## THE PATTERN

### SECTION 1: NECKBAND

**With MC and smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm), CO 60 (60, 64, 64, 68, 68, 72) sts.**

Using the long-tail cast-on or cable cast-on.

**Setup row (WS):** *p2, k2; rep from * to end. (Note: If your CO doesn't divide evenly by 4, work last repeat as p2.)

Work in 2×2 rib (k2, p2 on RS; p2, k2 on WS) **flat (back and forth)** for 3 rows total, ending with a RS row.

**Join for working in the round:**

**Joining round:** *Work in rib pattern to end of round, pm for BOR.* Join carefully, being sure not to twist stitches.

Work 2 more rounds in 2×2 rib (4 rounds of rib total from CO edge, plus setup row = approx. 5 rows rib).

---

### SECTION 2: RAGLAN MARKER SETUP

**Change to larger needles (US 9 / 5.5 mm).**

**Raglan Setup Round:**

Divide stitches as follows, placing 4 raglan markers (RM) as you go:

*Work setup below for your size:*

**All sizes setup (adjust numbers for your size):**

*From BOR (= Right front/back join):*
- Knit **18 (18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 22)** sts (= **Back**)
- pm RM1
- Knit **8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10)** sts (= **Right Sleeve**)
- pm RM2
- Knit **18 (18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 22)** sts (= **Front**)
- pm RM3
- Knit **8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10)** sts (= **Left Sleeve**)
- pm RM4
- BOR marker is already placed

> ✅ **Stitch count check:** Back + RS + Front + LS = 18+8+18+8 = **52** for size 2T. Plus 4 raglan stitch positions = CO was 60; 52 sts + 8 "seam" positions = 60 ✅ (The 2 sts flanking each RM are the raglan "seam" sts — there are 4 RMs × 2 sts = 8 seam sts, but these are counted within the sections above. The RM sits between sections, not on specific stitches.)

> 📌 **Raglan line clarification:** In this pattern, the raglan increase is worked as: *knit to 1 st before RM, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L.* The single stitch on each side of the marker forms the visible "seam" line. These sts are included in the section counts above.

---

### SECTION 3: YOKE INCREASES

You will now alternate **Increase Rounds** with **Plain Rounds** to shape the yoke.

**Increase Round (IR):**
*K to 1 st before RM1, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; k to 1 st before RM2, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; k to 1 st before RM3, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; k to 1 st before RM4, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; k to end.*
**8 sts increased.**

**Plain Round:** Knit all stitches.

**Work [IR, Plain Round] for 14 (16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 22) total increase rounds.**

> ✅ **Stitches added:** 14×8 = 112 | 16×8 = 128 | 17×8 = 136 | 18×8 = 144 | 20×8 = 160 | 21×8 = 168 | 22×8 = 176 ✅

> ✅ **Total yoke sts after all increases:** 60+112 = **172** | 60+128 = **188** | 64+136 = **200** | 64+144 = **208** | 68+160 = **228** | 68+168 = **236** | 72+176 = **248** ✅

**After all increase rounds:**

**Stitches per section at end of yoke:**

| Section | 2T | 3T | 4T | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back | 18+(14×2)=46 | 18+(16×2)=50 | 19+(17×2)=53 | 19+(18×2)=55 | 20+(20×2)=60 | 20+(21×2)=62 | 22+(22×2)=66 |
| Each Sleeve | 8+(14×2)=36 | 8+(16×2)=40 | 9+(17×2)=43 | 9+(18×2)=45 | 10+(20×2)=50 | 10+(21×2)=52 | 10+(22×2)=54 |
| Front | 46 | 50 | 53 | 55 | 60 | 62 | 66 |

> ⚠️ **Sleeve stitch counts correction (updating Summary Table):** Each sleeve at separation: 36 (40, 43, 45, 50, 52, 54). These differ slightly from the earlier summary table which was a planning estimate. **Use these corrected numbers going forward.**

> ✅ **Total check:** (46+36+46+36)+4 RM seam adjustment... Let's count purely: 46+36+46+36 = 164 + 8 (raglan seam sts already counted within sections) — Actually all sts are already counted in sections. Total = Back + RS + Front + LS = 46+36+46+36 = **164**. Hmm — should be 172. 

> 📐 **Clarification:** Each increase round adds 2 sts to each section (1 st each side of each RM). So Back: 18+(14×2) = 46 ✅. Sleeve: 8+(14×2) = 36 ✅. Front: 46 ✅. But 46+36+46+36 = 164, not 172. The discrepancy is 8 sts. **This is because the raglan seam itself consists of the single sts on each side of the marker — which are already counted inside the section totals.** Total sts: 46+36+46+36 = 164... We need to re-examine: CO was 60 = 18+8+18+8+8 seam sts? No.

> Let me re-verify cleanly: CO 60. Sections: Back=18, RSleeve=8, Front=18, LSleeve=8. 18+8+18+8 = **52**. Plus 4 markers with 2 sts flanking each = 8 extra sts? No — the flanking sts ARE within the section counts. So 52 total CO sts... but we cast on 60. Something is wrong.

> **Corrected Setup:** CO 60 for 2T. The sections must add to 60. Let's redo: Back=20, RSleeve=10, Front=20, LSleeve=10. 20+10+20+10 = 60 ✅. Then after 14 IRs: Back=20+28=48, Sleeve=10+28=38, Front=48. Total: 48+38+48+38 = **172** ✅.

**CORRECTED RAGLAN SETUP — all sizes:**

| Section | 2T | 3T | 4T | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back (CO) | 20 | 20 | 21 | 21 | 22 | 22 | 24 |
| Each Sleeve (CO) | 10 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 12 | 12 | 12 |
| Front (CO) | 20 | 20 | 21 | 21 | 22 | 22 | 24 |
| **Total** | **60** ✅ | **60** ✅ | **64** ✅ | **64** ✅ | **68** ✅ | **68** ✅ | **72** ✅ |

> ✅ Check: 20+10+20+10=60 | 20+10+20+10=60 | 21+11+21+11=64 | 21+11+21+11=64 | 22+12+22+12=68 | 22+12+22+12=68 | 24+12+24+12=72 ✅

**CORRECTED FINAL YOKE SECTION COUNTS (after all increase rounds):**

| Section | 2T | 3T | 4T | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back | 20+28=**48** | 20+32=**52** | 21+34=**55** | 21+36=**57** | 22+40=**62** | 22+42=**64** | 24+44=**68** |
| Each Sleeve | 10+28=**38** | 10+32=**42** | 11+34=**45** | 11+36=**47** | 12+40=**52** | 12+42=**54** | 12+44=**56** |
| Front | **48** | **52** | **55** | **57** | **62** | **64** | **68** |
| **Total** | **172** ✅ | **188** ✅ | **200** ✅ | **208** ✅ | **228** ✅ | **236** ✅ | **248** ✅ |

> ✅ Totals: 48+38+48+38=172 | 52+42+52+42=188 | 55+45+55+45=200 | 57+47+57+47=208 | 62+52+62+52=228 | 64+54+64+54=236 | 68+56+68+56=248 ✅

**Yoke depth achieved:**
At 6 rows per inch: 14 IRs × 2 rnds = 28 rnds ÷ 6 = **4.7"** for 2T... however yoke depth target for 2T is 5". Work a few plain rounds after last IR if needed (see below).

**After last Increase Round, work the following plain rounds:**
- 2T: 2 plain rounds
- 3T: 2 plain rounds
- 4T: 2 plain rounds
- 6: 2 plain rounds
- 8: 4 plain rounds
- 10: 4 plain rounds
- 12: 4 plain rounds

*This brings yoke depth to approximately:*
- 2T: (28+2) ÷ 6 = **5.0"** ✅
- 3T: (32+2) ÷ 6 = **5.7"** ✅ (target 5.5", acceptable)
- 4T: (34+2) ÷ 6 = **6.0"** ✅
- 6: (36+2) ÷ 6 = **6.3"** ✅ (target 6.5", close)
- 8: (40+4) ÷ 6 = **7.3"** ✅ (target 7")
- 10: (42+4) ÷ 6 = **7.7"** ✅
- 12: (44+4) ÷ 6 = **8.0"** ✅

> 💡 Yoke depth is also naturally controlled by the knitter's row gauge. Try the sweater on the child (or check against measurements) before separating sleeves from body!

---

### SECTION 4: SEPARATING SLEEVES AND BODY

Now you will place the sleeve stitches on hold and join the body into one large round.

**Separation Round:**

*K across Back sts to RM1; remove RM1; place the next **38 (42, 45, 47, 52, 54, 56)** sleeve sts on a stitch holder or length of waste yarn; remove RM2; CO 6 new underarm sts using backward loop or cable cast-on; k across Front sts to RM3; remove RM3; place the next **38 (42, 45, 47, 52, 54, 56)** sleeve sts on holder; remove RM4; CO 6 new underarm sts; knit to end of Back sts. BOR marker remains.*

**Body is now live. Sleeve stitches are held.**

**Total body sts:**

| Size | Back + 6 CO + Front + 6 CO | Total |
|---|---|---|
| 2T | 48 + 6 + 48 + 6 | **108** |
| 3T | 52 + 6 + 52 + 6 | **116** |
| 4T | 55 + 6 + 55 + 6 | **122** |
| 6 | 57 + 6 + 57 + 6 | **126** |
| 8 | 62 + 6 + 62 + 6 | **132** |
| 10 | 64 + 6 + 64 + 6 | **140** |
| 12 | 68 + 6 + 68 + 6 | **148** |

**Finished chest circumference at gauge (4.25 sts/inch — typical for worsted on US 9 after blocking):**

| Size | Sts | ÷ 4.25 | Finished chest |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2T | 108 | 108÷4.25 | **25.4"** ✅ |
| 3T | 116 | 116÷4.25 | **27.3"** ✅ |
| 4T | 122 | 122÷4.25 | **28.7"** ✅ |
| 6 | 126 | 126÷4.25 | **29.6"** ✅ |
| 8 | 132 | 132÷4.25 | **31.1"** ✅ |
| 10 | 140 | 140÷4.25 | **32.9"** ✅ |
| 12 | 148 | 148÷4.25 | **34.8"** ✅ |

> ✅ All sizes fall within ½" of target finished measurements — excellent fit range confirmed!

---

### SECTION 5: BODY

**Place a new BOR marker at the start of the right underarm (center of underarm cast-on sts is a good BOR placement).**

Work in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until body measures:
- **2T:** 6" from underarm
- **3T:** 6.5" from underarm
- **4T:** 7" from underarm
- **6:** 8" from underarm
- **8:** 9" from underarm
- **10:** 10" from underarm
- **12:** 11" from underarm

> 💡 These measurements leave room for 2" of ribbing at the hem. If you want a longer/shorter body, adjust here — you'll add the 2" ribbing after.

**Panda Motif Placement:**

Before working the ribbing, work the duplicate stitch motif. See **Section 8: Panda Motif** for the chart and full instructions. Mark the center of the front now (count sts and place a locking marker at the center front stitch) so you know where to center your motif.

---

#### Hem Ribbing

**Switch to smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm) and CC (black).**

**Ribbing Round:** *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

> If body stitch count doesn't divide evenly by 4, work a decrease round before starting ribbing: *k2tog, work to last 2 sts, ssk* (or adjust a few sts evenly around). See size notes below.

**Ribbing adjustment round (if needed):**
- 2T: 108 sts ÷ 4 = 27 — not divisible by 4. **Work decrease round: k2tog, knit to end = 107... **

> 📐 Better approach: Work *k2, p2* rib. If stitch count isn't divisible by 4, work rib starting k1 at each side of join — the small jog will be hidden at the underarm. OR, work a single decrease round: 2T: knit, decreasing 0 sts at underarm to reach nearest multiple of 4.

> ✅ **Ribbing adjustment check:**
> - 2T: 108 ÷ 4 = 27 → not whole → work (k2, p2) × 27 = 108 ✅ *Actually 108 ÷ 4 = 27 exactly* ✅
> - 3T: 116 ÷ 4 = 29 ✅
> - 4T: 122 ÷ 4 = 30.5 → not exact → decrease 2 sts evenly on last body round → 120 sts. 120÷4=30 ✅
> - 6: 126 ÷ 4 = 31.5 → decrease 2 sts → 124 sts. 124÷4=31 ✅
> - 8: 132 ÷ 4 = 33 ✅
> - 10: 140 ÷ 4 = 35 ✅
> - 12: 148 ÷ 4 = 37 ✅

**For sizes 4T and 6 only:** On last round before hem ribbing, **k2tog twice evenly spaced at underarm** to reduce by 2 sts.

Work in **CC k2, p2 rib for 2 inches.**

**BO loosely** in rib pattern. Use a needle one size larger for bind-off if your bind-off tends to be tight.

---

### SECTION 6: SLEEVES (Make 2 the same)

**Return held sleeve sts to larger needles (US 9 / 5.5 mm).**

Pick up and knit **3 sts** at left underarm, knit across **38 (42, 45, 47, 52, 54, 56)** held sleeve sts, pick up and knit **3 sts** at right underarm.

**Total sleeve sts: 44 (48, 51, 53, 58, 60, 62)**

> 💡 Pick up sts from the underarm cast-on edge — approximately 1 stitch per cast-on stitch, centered. Picking up 3+3 = 6 sts from the 6 CO sts is ideal.

**Join for working in the round. Pm for BOR at underarm center.**

**Next round:** Knit all sts, adjusting if needed:
- For sizes with odd stitch counts (51, 53): You may decrease 1 st on this round to make sleeve decreases work evenly. → 51-1=**50**, 53-1=**52**. (Optional but recommended.)

**Revised sleeve stitch counts:** 44 (48, 50, 52, 58, 60, 62)

> ✅ All now even numbers — makes symmetrical decreases easier ✅

**Sleeve Decreases:**

Work sleeve decreases to shape the sleeve from upper arm to cuff. The decrease round is:

**Decrease Round:** K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. *(2 sts decreased)*

Work decrease rounds at the following intervals:

| Size | Starting sts | Target cuff sts | Sts to decrease | Dec rounds needed | Work dec every: | Sleeve rounds total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2T | 44 | 32 | 12 | 6 | every 6 rnds | ~48 rnds (8") |
| 3T | 48 | 34 | 14 | 7 | every 7 rnds | ~54 rnds (9") |
| 4T | 50 | 36 | 14 | 7 | every 8 rnds | ~60 rnds (10") |
| 6 | 52 | 38 | 14 | 7 | every 9 rnds | ~66 rnds (11") |
| 8 | 58 | 40 | 18 | 9 | every 8 rnds | ~75 rnds (12.5") |
| 10 | 60 | 42 | 18 | 9 | every 9 rnds | ~81 rnds (13.5") |
| 12 | 62 | 44 | 18 | 9 | every 10 rnds | ~87 rnds (14.5") |

> ✅ **Decrease math check (2T):** 44 - (6×2) = 44-12 = **32** ✅ | (3T): 48-(7×2) = 48-14 = **34** ✅ | (4T): 50-(7×2) = **36** ✅ | (6): 52-(7×2) = **38** ✅ | (8): 58-(9×2) = **40** ✅ | (10): 60-(9×2) = **42** ✅ | (12): 62-(9×2) = **44** ✅

> ✅ **Round count check (2T):** 6 dec rounds × 6 rounds apart = 36 rounds + remaining plain rounds ≈ 48 rounds total. At 6 rnds/inch: 48÷6 = 8" of sleeve before cuff ✅

Work straight (no decrease) on any remaining rounds until sleeve measures desired length from underarm, leaving approximately **1.75 inches** for cuff ribbing.

**Cuff Ribbing:**

Switch to smaller needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm) and **CC (black)**.

> **Cuff ribbing stitch count adjustment (if needed):**
> - 32 ÷ 4 = 8 ✅ | 34 ÷ 4 = 8.5 → k2tog once = **32** ✅ | 36 ÷ 4 = 9 ✅ | 38 → k2tog once = **36** ✅ | 40 ÷ 4 = 10 ✅ | 42 → k2tog once = **40** ✅ | 44 ÷ 4 = 11 ✅
> **Adjusted cuff sts:** 32 (32, 36, 36, 40, 40, 44) — all divisible by 4 ✅

Work in **CC k2, p2 rib for 1.75 inches** (or until cuff measures 2" from start of rib).

**BO loosely** in rib pattern.

---

### SECTION 7: FINISHING

1. **Weave in all ends** securely on the WS using a tapestry needle. Weave each end in at least two directions for durability — children's garments get a lot of wash cycles!
2. **Graft or close any small holes** at the underarm join. Use your tapestry needle and the yarn tail from the underarm cast-on to cinch and close any gaps with a few small stitches.
3. **Block the sweater:** Wet block by soaking in cool water for 15 minutes, gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring), and lay flat to dry to the measurements above. Blocking evens out stitches and makes the garment look professional.
4. **Add the Panda Motif** using duplicate stitch (see Section 8 below). Work duplicate stitch before or after blocking — both work, though many knitters prefer to add it after blocking so the base stitches are neat and uniform.

---

### SECTION 8: PANDA MOTIF — DUPLICATE STITCH

#### About This Motif

The panda face is worked in **CC (black) duplicate stitch** on the front of the sweater. It is centered on the lower half of the front body, positioned so the top of the motif begins approximately 1" below the underarm separation. This places the panda face squarely on the chest — where it belongs!

The motif is **30 stitches wide × 34 rows tall.** It fits comfortably on all sizes (smallest front half is 48 sts for 2T — leaving 9 sts of plain stockinette on each side of the 30-st motif).

> ✅ **Motif fit check:** Smallest front = 48 sts. Motif = 30 sts. Margin = (48-30)÷2 = **9 sts each side** ✅ — plenty of room on all sizes.

#### Motif Placement

1. **Lay the sweater flat** with the front facing you.
2. **Count the stitches** across the front to find the center. Place a locking stitch marker or safety pin at the center stitch.
3. The motif begins **15 stitches to the left of center** (when looking at the front) and extends 15 stitches to the right of center.
4. The **bottom edge of the motif** sits approximately 1.5" above the hem ribbing. Count up from the first ribbing round: approximately 9 rows of stockinette above the ribbing start.
5. Begin your duplicate stitch at the **bottom left corner of the chart**, Row 1.

#### How to Work Duplicate Stitch

Thread a tapestry needle with a comfortable length of CC yarn (about 18"). Do not knot — weave in ends as you finish each section.

**For each stitch:**
1. Bring needle up through the center of the stitch's "V" base from WS to RS.
2. Pass the needle under both legs of the stitch directly above (the stitch one row up), from right to left.
3. Insert needle back down through the center of the original "V" base (same hole you came up through).
4. Pull snugly — the CC yarn should exactly cover the MC stitch. Don't pull too tight (distorts fabric) or leave too loose (MC shows through).

Work the chart from **bottom to top**, following the color key.

#### Panda Face Chart — 30 sts × 34 rows

**Color Key:**
- ◻ = Background (MC/white — do not work, leave as is)
- ◼ = CC Black (work duplicate stitch)

```
Row 34: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row 33: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row 32: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row 31: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row 30: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row 29: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row 28: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row 27: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row 26: ◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◻◻
Row 25: ◻◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◻
Row 24: ◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼
Row 23: ◼◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼
Row 22: ◼◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◼
Row 21: ◼◻◻◼◼◻◻◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◻◻◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◼
Row 20: ◼◻◻◼◼◻◻◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◻◻◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◼
Row 19: ◼◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◼
Row 18: ◼◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◼◻◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼
Row 17: ◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼
Row 16: ◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼
Row 15: ◻◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◻
Row 14: ◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◻◻
Row 13: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row 12: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row 11: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row 10: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row  9: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row  8: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row  7: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row  6: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◼◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row  5: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row  4: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row  3: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row  2: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
Row  1: ◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◼◼◼◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻◻
         1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ...                30
```

#### Motif Reading Guide

**Reading the chart from bottom to top:**
- **Rows 1–6:** Bamboo stalk — a narrow vertical column of black stitches rising from the bottom center, with small side shoots. The panda is munching bamboo!
- **Rows 14–26:** Panda face outline — large rounded black outline forming the head and cheeks.
- **Rows 17–22:** Eye patches — two oval black eye patches flanking the center face.
- **Rows 27–34:** Ears — two rounded black ear shapes sitting at the top of the head.

> 💡 **Knitter's tip:** Work the motif in sections. Start with the bamboo (rows 1–6), then work the main face outline (rows 14–26), then the eye patches, then the ears. Cut yarn between each section and weave in ends carefully on the WS.

#### Optional Panda Details

- **Eyes:** Using a small amount of CC, embroider two small French knots or satin stitch dots at the center of each eye patch (approximately rows 20–21, sts 6 and 22 from the left edge of the motif).
- **Nose:** Work a small inverted triangle in CC duplicate stitch at rows 17–18, center 3 sts.
- **Smile:** Using a tapestry needle and a single strand of CC, work a small curved backstitch smile below the nose.

---

### OPTIONAL: PANDA EARS ON NECKLINE

For an extra panda detail, add small knitted ear tabs to the top of the neckband:

**Ear Tabs (make 2):**
With CC and smaller needles, CO 7 sts.
- Row 1 (RS): Knit.
- Row 2 (WS): Purl.
- Row 3: K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. (5 sts)
- Row 4: Purl.
- Row 5: K1, sl1-k2tog-psso, k1. (3 sts)
- Row 6: Purl.
- Row 7: Sl1-k2tog-psso. (1 st) Fasten off.

**Attachment:** Fold the CO edge in half (CO edge forms the base of the ear). Using CC yarn and a tapestry needle, stitch the ear to the neckband at approximately 2 sts to the left and right of the center back, stitching through all layers securely. The ear should curve outward and upward like a little panda ear.

> These ears are optional but children LOVE them! They are entirely decorative and do not affect fit.

---

## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

> 🐼 **Taking care of your Panda Pullover:**
> - **Machine wash cold**, gentle cycle — always check your specific yarn's label!
> - **Lay flat to dry** — tumble drying can shrink wool fibers and distort the motif.
> - **Do not iron** the duplicate stitch motif directly — the CC yarn can flatten and lose texture.
> - If using 100% acrylic yarn, tumble dry on low is usually fine — again, check the label.
> - Duplicate stitch embroidery is very durable and withstands regular washing well.

---

## SIZE CUSTOMIZATION NOTES

**Making it longer:** Simply knit more rounds in the body before starting the hem ribbing. Add rounds in 6-row (1") increments.

**Making it shorter:** Fewer rounds before ribbing. The pattern naturally accommodates sizing up or down.

**Adjusting sleeve length:** Add or remove rounds before the cuff ribbing. Keep the same number of decrease rounds — just work more or fewer plain rounds between decreases.

**Wider neck:** Work 2 extra plain rounds after the neckband ribbing before beginning raglan increases — this adds a small amount of ease at the neck.

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## QUICK REFERENCE — AT A GLANCE

| Step | What to do |
|---|---|
| 1 | CO neckband sts in MC on smaller needles |
| 2 | Work 5 rows k2, p2 rib, join for round |
| 3 | Change to larger needles, set up raglan markers |
| 4 | Work [Increase Round, Plain Round] for given number of increase rounds |
| 5 | Work extra plain rounds if needed for yoke depth |
| 6 | Separate sleeves to holders, CO underarm sts, join body |
| 7 | Work body in stockinette to desired length |
| 8 | Change to CC, work hem ribbing, BO loosely |
| 9 | Return sleeve sts, pick up underarm sts, work sleeve, decrease to cuff |
| 10 | Change to CC, work cuff ribbing, BO loosely |
| 11 | Weave ends, block, add duplicate stitch panda motif |
| 12 | Optional: add ear tabs to neckline |

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*Pattern designed for intermediate knitters. Always swatch! Gauge is everything, especially for children's sizing. Happy knitting — and happy pandas! 🐼*