Barrel Leg Trousers

Machine-knit pattern for Brother / Silver Reed LK150 (mid-gauge)

Comfortable high-waisted barrel-leg trousers with a full, rounded silhouette through the thigh and calf, gentle taper to the ankle, and an elastic waist casing. Knit flat in four panels on the LK150 and seamed. Intermediate level.

Materials

• Yarn: Sport weight (12–14 wpi), smooth wool, wool-blend, or cotton-blend suitable for machine knitting.
  Approx. yardage: 1200 (1350, 1500, 1650, 1800) yd / 1100 (1235, 1370, 1510, 1645) m.
• Machine: LK150 mid-gauge (6.5 mm) or equivalent single-bed mid-gauge. Ribber not required.
• Tools: Cast-on comb, claw weights & large weights, transfer tool, latch tool, ravel cord, waste yarn, tapestry needle, steams/iron, 1–1¼" wide elastic (waist measurement + 1"), sewing needle & thread to match.
• Optional: Punchcard or electronic not needed (plain stockinette).

Tension / Gauge

• Main tension: T7 (adjust ±½ to match gauge).
• Gauge: 20 sts and 28 rows = 4" / 10 cm (5 sts and 7 rows = 1") over stockinette after light steam blocking.
• Hung hem / mock rib: T6.
• Always swatch 40 sts × 60 rows, wash/steam as you will the garment, and re-check gauge before casting on.

Sizes

Women’s XS (S, M, L, XL)
To fit waist: 25 (28, 31, 34, 37)" / 63.5 (71, 79, 86.5, 94) cm
To fit hip: 35 (38, 41, 44, 47)" / 89 (96.5, 104, 112, 119.5) cm
Finished waist (casings relaxed): 26 (29, 32, 35, 38)"
Finished hip: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56)"
Finished thigh (barrel fullest): 26 (28, 30, 32, 34)" circumference
Finished ankle: 12 (12.75, 13.5, 14.25, 15)" circumference
Inseam: 28" / 71 cm (all sizes; lengthen/shorten in leg section)
Total rise (front+back crotch depth): approx. 26 (27, 28, 29, 30)"

Choose size by hip measurement for best barrel drape; adjust waist elastic to fit.

Abbreviations & Machine Terms

• COR / COL = carriage on right / left
• RC = row counter
• ND(s) = needle(s)
• WP = working position
• NWP = non-working position
• HP = hold position
• T# = tension dial setting
• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• dec / inc = decrease / increase
• FNR = full needle rib (not used)
• Hang hem = rehang cast-on sts onto corresponding NDs to form doubled edge
• SSS = stockinette stitch (knit side facing knitter on LK150 when using main bed)

Pattern Notes

• Panels are knit bottom-up: cuff → leg → crotch shaping → hip/waist.
• Barrel shape is created by rapid early increases after the cuff, a long straight section, then modest decreases into the hip and stronger decreases into the waist.
• Crotch is shaped with partial knitting (holds) plus a few transferred decreases.
• Two identical Fronts and two identical Backs; Backs have higher rise (more rows and slightly more crotch shaping).
• Seam allowance is 1 st each edge—already included in counts.
• Use plenty of weights; move them up every 20–30 rows, especially on the wide barrel section.
• Lengthen/shorten leg by adding/subtracting rows in the “straight barrel” section in multiples of 7 rows (1").
• All shaping occurs on the carriage side unless noted; always take carriage to the opposite side before holding additional needles if needed for balance.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Machine Setup (all pieces)

1. Carriage: stockinette levers (both side levers forward / plain knit), no tuck/slip cams.
2. Tension mast and disks set for sport yarn; check flow.
3. Bring required NDs to WP.
4. CO with waste yarn and ravel cord using open-edge CO (e-wrap or cast-on comb method). Knit 8–10 rows waste, 1 row ravel cord. Reset RC = 000. Change to main yarn.

RIGHT FRONT (make 1)

Cuff (hung hem)

• Bring 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) NDs to WP.
• CO with waste + ravel as above. COR. Main yarn, T6.
• RC 000. Knit 20 rows (hung-hem depth). COR.
• Hang hem: pick up open sts from first row of main yarn (above ravel) and hang on corresponding NDs. Remove waste.
• Change to T7. Knit 1 row to close hem. COR. RC 000 (reset after hem).

Barrel increases (ankle to thigh)

• Inc 1 st each end every 4 rows × 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) times as follows:
  On increase rows, bring 1 new ND at each end into WP and e-wrap or pick up bar from adjacent st to form clean edge st.
• Stitch count after increases: 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sts.
• RC will read 36 (40, 44, 48, 52). COR.

Straight barrel leg

• Continue even on 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sts until RC shows 196 (total inseam length 28" from top of cuff).
  (If you lengthened/shortened, adjust this RC target; note the RC value for matching the other leg panels.)
• COR. Place marker or note RC = “inseam complete.”

Front crotch shaping (partial knitting + decreases)
Front rise is shorter than back.

• Set carriage to Hold (partial knit).
• COR. At carriage side (right edge = center-front/crotch edge), bring 2 NDs opposite the carriage into HP. Knit across. COL.
• Wrap or push the first held ND back so yarn wraps to avoid holes (or use standard LK150 hold wrap method).
• Continue: at the beginning of every row on the crotch side only, bring 2 additional NDs into HP, knit across, wrap. Work until 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) NDs are in HP on the crotch edge.
  RC advances 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) rows.
• Now reverse short rows: push 2 NDs from HP back to WP at the crotch side at the beginning of every row until all NDs are again in WP. (Same number of rows.)
• At the same time, on the final 4 return rows, dec 1 st at crotch edge every other row 2 times (transfer edge st inward, move empty ND to NWP).
• After short rows complete, all NDs in WP, stitch count = 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) sts. COR or COL as landed.
• Reset mental note: front crotch depth achieved.

Hip to waist decreases

• Knit 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) rows even for lower hip.
• Then dec 1 st each end every 6 rows × 7 (7, 7, 7, 7) times: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) sts remain.
• Continue even, if needed, until total rise rows from end of inseam measure approximately 11 (11.5, 12, 12.5, 13)" (front half-rise).
  Typical additional RC after crotch: ~70–85 depending on size. End COR.

Waist facing / casing

• Change to T6. Knit 24 rows (casing depth for 1–1¼" elastic folded).
• Do not bind off. Break yarn leaving 20" tail. Remove on waste yarn or garter bar / several rows waste so live sts can be grafted or back-stitched later.
• Make a second identical piece for LEFT FRONT, reversing all shaping (crotch holds and decreases on the opposite edge = center front).

RIGHT BACK (make 1)

Work exactly as Right Front through the straight barrel leg to the same inseam RC (196 or your adjusted value), same stitch counts: start 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) → thigh 48 (52, 56, 60, 64). COR.

Back crotch shaping (deeper)

• Set carriage to Hold.
• Bring 2 NDs on crotch edge (right edge) to HP every row until 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) NDs are held. RC advances 8 (9, 9, 10, 10) rows. Wrap to avoid holes.
• Reverse short rows, returning 2 NDs to WP every row until all are working again.
• On the last 6 return rows, dec 1 st at crotch edge every other row 3 times.
• Final stitch count after crotch: 45 (49, 53, 57, 61) sts.
• Back crotch is deeper; remaining rise will be longer.

Hip to waist

• Knit 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) rows even.
• Dec 1 st each end every 6 rows × 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) times, then dec 1 st each end every 4 rows × 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) time more if needed to reach 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) sts.
  (Exact sequence: reduce cleanly to the same waist count as fronts.)
• Continue even until back half-rise from end of inseam measures approximately 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17)". End COR.

Waist facing

• T6, knit 24 rows casing. Remove on waste yarn same as fronts.
• Make LEFT BACK reversing crotch edge.

Finishing

1. Block: Steam or wet-block each panel to measurements. Pin barrel curve gently; do not flatten the fullness. Dry completely.
2. Crotch seams: With right sides together, join front crotch seam (center-front edges) using mattress stitch or back-stitch 1 st in. Repeat for back crotch seam.
3. Inseams: Seam left front to left back inseam, right front to right back inseam, matching cuff and crotch points.
4. Outseams / side seams: Seam fronts to backs at side edges from cuff to waist, matching row counts. (Optional side-seam pockets: leave 5–6" opening at hip; knit separate pocket bags by hand or machine and set in.)
5. Waist casing: Fold facing to wrong side along first row of T6 section. Pin. Insert elastic cut to comfortable waist + 1", overlap ends 1" and sew securely into a loop. Enclose elastic and stitch casing closed by hand (back-stitch through live sts or whip to first row of facing) or carefully machine-stitch, leaving live sts free of bulk. Alternatively graft live sts down.
6. Cuffs: Already finished as hung hems; reinforce with a few hand stitches at side seams if desired.
7. Final press: Light steam seams only; avoid crushing barrel fullness. Hang or lay flat.

Tips for LK150 Success

• On wide barrel sections the full bed is nearly occupied—use the cast-on comb plus multiple claw weights distributed evenly; move weights up often.
• When holding for crotch, always knit the free side slowly and check that held NDs stay in HP.
• If edge stitches loosen, tighten the end st manually or use a slightly tighter tension on edge NDs.
• Record your exact RC at end of inseam and end of each rise so the four panels match.
• Try on before final waist stitching; barrel trousers look best with the waist sitting at the natural or high waist and the fullness dropping from high hip.

Enjoy your barrel-leg trousers—the shape is dramatic yet comfortable and showcases the smooth stockinette only a machine can produce at this gauge.