purlJam

# Basic Top-Down House Socks (Crochet)

**Pattern Notes**
This pattern produces a cosy, worsted-weight house sock using UK Crochet Terminology. It follows the classic construction of a knitted sock (Top-Down with Heel Flap) but adapted for crochet.
*   **Skill Level:** Beginner
*   **Construction:** Cuff worked sideways, joined, then worked top-down in a spiral.
*   **Terminology:** **UK English** (dc = US sc, tr = US dc).

**Materials**
*   **Yarn:** Worsted / Aran weight yarn (approx. 100g / 180-200m). A wool/nylon blend is recommended for durability.
*   **Hook:** 4.5 mm (UK 7) or size needed to obtain tension.
*   **Notions:** Stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors, measuring tape.

**Tension (Gauge)**
16 stitches and 18 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm in Double Crochet (dc).
*Check your tension carefully. If your tension is tighter, switch to a 5.0 mm hook.*

**Sizes**
*   **Adult Medium:** Fits foot circumference approx. 22-24 cm.
*   **Finished Sock Circumference:** Approx. 22.5 cm (socks should be slightly snug).

**Abbreviations (UK Terms)**
*   **ch:** chain
*   **dc:** double crochet (equivalent to US single crochet)
*   **dc2tog:** double crochet two together (decrease)
*   **ss:** slip stitch
*   **blo:** back loop only
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **RS/WS:** Right Side / Wrong Side

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## 1. The Cuff
*The cuff is worked sideways in rows to create an elastic ribbing, then joined into a circle.*

**Foundation:** Ch 11.
**Row 1:** dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. [10 sts]
**Row 2:** Ch 1, dc in blo of each st across. Turn. [10 sts]

Repeat Row 2 until the ribbed strip measures approx. 23 cm (unstretched).
*   *Verification: Ensure you end on an even number of rows. Approx 42 rows is standard for this tension.*

**Join:** Fold the strip in half. ss the foundation edge to the final row to form a tube. Do not fasten off.

## 2. The Leg
*Work is now done in a continuous spiral. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless instructed. Place a marker at the start of the round.*

**Set Up Round:** Ch 1, work 36 dc evenly around the edge of the cuff. (Ideally, 3 dc for every 4 rows of ribbing).
*   *Math Check: [Target 36 sts]*

**Round 1:** dc in each st around. [36 sts]

Repeat Round 1 until the leg measures 15 cm (6 inches) from the top of the cuff, or desired length.

## 3. The Heel Flap
*We will now work back and forth in rows on half the stitches to create the back of the heel. The other half (instep) will be ignored for now.*

**Row 1 (RS):** dc in the next 18 sts. Leave the remaining 18 sts unworked. Turn. [18 sts]
**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 1, dc in each of the 18 sts. Turn. [18 sts]

Repeat Row 2 until you have worked 16 rows total for the flap. The flap should be roughly square.

## 4. The Heel Turn
*We shape the cup of the heel by working partial rows.*

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, dc in next 11 sts, dc2tog, turn (leave remaining 5 sts unworked).
*   *Math: [11 + 1 (dec) = 12 sts used]*
**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 1, dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog, turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
**Row 3:** Ch 1, dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog (consuming the next unworked st from the side), turn.
**Row 4:** Ch 1, dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog, turn.
**Row 5:** Ch 1, dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog, turn.
**Row 6:** Ch 1, dc in next 9 sts, dc2tog. Do not turn.

*   *Status Check: You should now have 10 live stitches on the heel needle.*

## 5. The Gusset
*We resume working in the round to connect the heel back to the foot.*

**Set Up Round:**
1.  **Side 1:** Ch 1, dc in each of the 10 heel sts. Pick up and dc 9 sts evenly along the side of the heel flap.
2.  **Instep:** Place marker (optional). dc across the 18 unworked instep sts from the Leg.
3.  **Side 2:** Pick up and dc 9 sts evenly along the other side of the heel flap.
*   *Math Check: [10 (heel) + 9 (side 1) + 18 (instep) + 9 (side 2) = 46 sts total]*

**Place main stitch marker here to mark the new start of the round.**

**Decrease Round 1:**
*   dc in next 19 sts (Heel + Side 1),
*   dc2tog (at the corner where Side 1 meets Instep),
*   dc in next 14 sts (Instep),
*   dc2tog (at the corner where Instep meets Side 2),
*   dc in remaining 9 sts.
*   *Math Check: [46 start - 2 dec = 44 sts]*

*Note: The exact placement of the decrease isn't critical, as long as you decrease one stitch at each "corner" where the flap meets the top of the foot.*

**Decrease Round 2:** dc in each st around. [44 sts]

**Decrease Round 3:** dc to 2 sts before Instep, dc2tog, dc across Instep, dc2tog, dc to end. [42 sts]

Repeat "Decrease Round 2" and "Decrease Round 3" alternating, until you return to **36 sts**.

## 6. The Foot
Work straight in dc in a spiral on these 36 sts until the foot measures 5 cm (2 inches) less than your total desired foot length.
*   *Example: For a 24 cm foot, work until sock measures 19 cm from back of heel.*

## 7. The Toe
*We decrease to close the toe. Flatten the sock so the instep is on top and the sole is on the bottom. Mark the two side fold lines.*

**Round 1:** *dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog*, repeat from * to * around. [32 sts]
**Round 2:** dc in each st around. [32 sts]
**Round 3:** *dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog*, repeat from * to * around. [28 sts]
**Round 4:** dc in each st around. [28 sts]
**Round 5:** *dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog*, repeat from * to * around. [24 sts]
**Round 6:** *dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog*, repeat from * to * around. [20 sts]
**Round 7:** *dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog*, repeat from * to * around. [16 sts]
**Round 8:** *dc2tog* around. [8 sts]

## Finishing
1.  Cut yarn leaving a 15 cm tail.
2.  Thread onto a tapestry needle.
3.  Weave through the front loops of the remaining 8 sts and pull tight to close (drawstring method).
4.  Secure end and weave in all loose ends.

Make the second sock exactly the same.