purlJam

# Basic Top-Down Socks

**Skill Level:** Beginner  
**Pattern Type:** Top-down socks with heel flap and gusset

## Materials
- **Yarn:** 300-350 yards worsted weight yarn (4)
  - *Suggested:* Machine washable wool blend or acrylic
- **Needles:** Set of 4 or 5 double-pointed needles (DPNs), US size 7 (4.5mm)
- **Notions:** Stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors

## Gauge
**18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch**  
*Gauge is critical for proper fit. Take time to make a gauge swatch.*

## Sizes and Measurements
- **Small:** Women's 6-7, Men's 4-5 (8.5" foot circumference)
- **Medium:** Women's 8-9, Men's 6-7 (9" foot circumference)  
- **Large:** Women's 10-11, Men's 8-9 (9.5" foot circumference)
- **X-Large:** Men's 10-11 (10" foot circumference)

## Stitch Counts by Size
- **Small:** 40 stitches
- **Medium:** 44 stitches
- **Large:** 48 stitches
- **X-Large:** 52 stitches

## Abbreviations
- **k** - knit
- **p** - purl  
- **k2tog** - knit 2 stitches together
- **ssk** - slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **st(s)** - stitch(es)
- **rnd** - round

## Instructions

### Cuff
1. Cast on 40 (44, 48, 52) stitches using long-tail cast on
2. Divide stitches evenly among 3 or 4 needles
3. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches
4. Place marker for beginning of round

**Ribbing:**
Work K2, P2 ribbing for 1.5 inches (about 12 rounds)

### Leg
Continue in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until piece measures 6 inches from cast-on edge, or desired length to start of heel.

### Heel Flap
The heel flap is worked back and forth on half the stitches.

**Setup:** Place 20 (22, 24, 26) stitches on one needle for heel. Divide remaining stitches on 2 needles and set aside for instep.

**Row 1 (RS):** *Slip 1, k1; repeat from * across
**Row 2 (WS):** Slip 1, purl across

Repeat Rows 1-2 until heel flap measures 2 (2.25, 2.5, 2.75) inches, ending with a WS row.

### Turn Heel
**Row 1 (RS):** K12 (13, 14, 15), ssk, k1, turn
**Row 2 (WS):** Slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn
**Row 3:** Slip 1, k6, ssk, k1, turn  
**Row 4:** Slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn

Continue in this manner, working one more stitch before the decrease on each row, until all heel stitches are worked. You should have 12 (14, 14, 16) stitches remaining.

### Gusset
**Setup:** With needle holding heel stitches, pick up and knit 10 (11, 12, 13) stitches along left side of heel flap. With new needle, work across instep stitches in stockinette. With new needle, pick up and knit 10 (11, 12, 13) stitches along right side of heel flap, then knit 6 (7, 7, 8) stitches from heel needle.

**Stitch count:** 52 (58, 62, 68) total stitches

**Gusset Decreases:**
**Round 1:**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: Knit across instep stitches
- Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until you have 40 (44, 48, 52) stitches total.

### Foot
Continue in stockinette stitch until foot measures 2 inches less than desired total foot length.

**Foot lengths by size:**
- Small: 6.5 inches  
- Medium: 7.5 inches
- Large: 8.5 inches
- X-Large: 9.5 inches

### Toe Shaping
**Round 1:**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1  
- Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until 20 (20, 24, 24) stitches remain.

Then work Round 1 only (decrease every round) until 8 stitches remain.

### Finishing
Cut yarn, leaving 8-inch tail. Thread tail through remaining stitches, pull tight, and weave in ends securely.

## Tips for Success
- **Gauge matters:** Your socks won't fit properly if your gauge is off
- **Heel reinforcement:** The slip stitch pattern creates a sturdy heel
- **Even tension:** Keep consistent tension, especially when picking up stitches
- **Try on as you go:** Check fit at the heel and before starting toe decreases
- **Make notes:** Record any modifications for your second sock

## Troubleshooting
- **Loose stitches at needle joins:** Pull working yarn snug when moving between needles
- **Holes at gusset:** Pick up an extra stitch between heel and instep, then decrease it away
- **Tight heel turn:** Use a needle one size larger for the heel turn if needed

**Congratulations on completing your first pair of hand-knit socks!**