purlJam

# Basic Top-Down Worsted Socks (Crochet)

**Difficulty Level:** Beginner
**Yarn Weight:** Worsted / Aran (10 ply)
**Hook Size:** 4.5 mm (or size needed to obtain tension)
**Sizes:** Adult Medium (To fit foot circumference approx. 22-24 cm)

## Materials Needed
*   Approx. 150-180 metres of worsted weight wool or wool-blend yarn.
*   4.5 mm crochet hook.
*   Stitch markers (essential for marking the heel and gusset).
*   Tapestry needle.
*   Tape measure.

## Terminology & Abbreviations (UK English)
*   **ch:** chain
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **sl st:** slip stitch
*   **dc:** double crochet (US single crochet)
*   **dc-blo:** double crochet back loop only
*   **htr:** half treble crochet (US half double crochet)
*   **dc2tog:** double crochet two together (decrease)
*   **htr2tog:** half treble crochet two together (decrease)
*   **RS/WS:** Right Side / Wrong Side
*   **M:** Marker

## Tension (Gauge)
15 stitches and 12 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm in half treble crochet (htr).
*Please check your tension. If you have fewer stitches in 10 cm, use a smaller hook.*

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### 1. The Cuff
*This section works flat in vertical rows to create a stretchy ribbing, which is then joined into a circle.*

**Foundation:** Ch 11.
**Row 1:** Dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. `[10 sts]`
**Row 2:** Ch 1 (does not count as st), dc-blo in each st across. Turn. `[10 sts]`
**Rows 3–34:** Repeat Row 2 until you have 34 rows total. `[Math Check: The strip should measure approx 20-22 cm long unstretched.]`

**Join:** Fold the strip so Row 1 and Row 34 meet. Sl st through the loops of Row 34 and the foundation chain of Row 1 to join into a tube. Do not cut yarn. Turn the cuff so the seam is on the inside.

### 2. The Leg
*Now we work in rounds along the edge of the cuff.*

**Setup Round:** Ch 1, work 32 dc evenly around the edge of the cuff (approx. 1 st per row end, skipping 2 rows occasionally to reach exactly 32 sts). Join with sl st to first dc.
`[Math Check: 32 sts total]`

**Rounds 1–15:** Ch 2 (does not count as st here or throughout), htr in each st around. Join with sl st to first htr.
`[Math Check: 32 sts per round]`
*Note: Continue until leg measures approx. 14 cm (5.5 in) or desired length ending at the ankle bone.*

### 3. The Heel Flap
*We will now work back and forth in rows on only half the stitches to create the back of the heel. The instep (top of foot) stitches will be left unworked for now.*

**Setup:** Identify the 16 sts for the heel. (You may need to sl st over a few stitches so the seam of the leg remains at the back centre, or simply start from where you are if you don't mind the seam shifting).

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, dc in next 16 sts. Leave remaining 16 sts unworked. Turn. `[16 sts]`
**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 1, dc in each st across. Turn. `[16 sts]`
**Rows 3–14:** Repeat Row 2.
`[Math Check: You should have 14 rows of heel flap. The flap should be roughly square.]`

### 4. The Heel Turn
*We will shape the cup of the heel by working partial rows.*

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog, turn. (Do not work the remaining 4 sts). `[11 sts worked]`
**Row 2 (WS):** Skip first st (the decrease just made), sl st in next, ch 1, dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, turn. `[6 sts in the middle]`
**Row 3 (RS):** Skip first st, sl st in next, ch 1, dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, turn.
**Row 4 (WS):** Skip first st, sl st in next, ch 1, dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog.
`[Math Check: You should now have 6 stitches remaining in the centre of the heel.]`

### 5. The Gusset
*We will recreate the round by picking up stitches along the sides of the heel flap.*

**Round 1 (Setup):**
1.  Ch 1, dc across the 6 heel sts.
2.  Pick up and work 8 dc down the side of the heel flap (approx 1 st per 2 row ends plus 1 extra in the corner to prevent a hole). Place Marker A.
3.  Work htr across the 16 unworked instep stitches (from the Leg section). Place Marker B.
4.  Pick up and work 8 dc up the other side of the heel flap.
`[Math Check: 6 (heel) + 8 (side 1) + 16 (instep) + 8 (side 2) = 38 sts total]`

**Round 2 (Decrease Round):**
1.  Dc in each st to 2 sts before Marker A, dc2tog. Move Marker A.
2.  Htr across instep sts to Marker B. Move Marker B.
3.  Dc2tog, dc in remaining sts to end of round.
`[Math Check: Start 38 sts - 2 decreases = 36 sts]`

**Round 3 (Decrease Round):**
Repeat Round 2.
`[Math Check: Start 36 sts - 2 decreases = 34 sts]`

**Round 4 (Decrease Round):**
Repeat Round 2.
`[Math Check: Start 34 sts - 2 decreases = 32 sts]`

*Stop decreasing. You have returned to your original stitch count of 32.*

### 6. The Foot
Work straight without decreasing.

**Next Rounds:** Ch 2, htr in each st around (switching the sole stitches to htr now for consistency, or keeping them as dc if you prefer a harder-wearing sole). Join with sl st.
`[Math Check: 32 sts per round]`

*Continue until the foot measures approx. 5 cm (2 in) less than your total desired foot length.*

### 7. The Toe
*We decrease to close the sock.*

**Round 1:** *Dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around. `[Start 32 - 4 dec = 28 sts]`
**Round 2:** Dc in each st around. `[28 sts]`
**Round 3:** *Dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around. `[Start 28 - 4 dec = 24 sts]`
**Round 4:** Dc in each st around. `[24 sts]`
**Round 5:** *Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around. `[Start 24 - 6 dec = 18 sts]`
**Round 6:** *Dc in next 1 st, dc2tog; repeat from * around. `[Start 18 - 6 dec = 12 sts]`
**Round 7:** Dc2tog around. `[6 sts]`

### Finishing
1.  Cut yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail.
2.  Thread tail onto a tapestry needle.
3.  Weave the needle through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close the hole.
4.  Weave in all ends securely on the inside of the sock.

*Repeat all instructions for the second sock.*