purlJam

# Basic Worsted Weight Socks

*A beginner-friendly cuff-down sock pattern using worsted weight yarn*

**Difficulty Level:** Beginner  
**Finished Size:** Adult Medium (adjustable)  
**Gauge:** 18 stitches = 10cm (4") in stocking stitch on 4.5mm needles

## Materials

- **Yarn:** 200g worsted weight yarn (10-ply)
  - Recommended: Machine-washable wool or wool blend for durability
  - Yardage needed: Approximately 300-350 metres
- **Needles:** Set of 4 double-pointed needles (DPNs), 4.5mm (US 7)
  - Alternative: 80cm (32") circular needles for magic loop method
- **Notions:**
  - Stitch markers
  - Tapestry needle for finishing
  - Scissors

## Gauge

**18 stitches and 24 rows = 10cm (4") in stocking stitch**

*Gauge is absolutely critical for sock fit. Take time to knit a proper tension square and adjust needle size if necessary. Socks that are too loose will slip and wear poorly; too tight will be uncomfortable.*

## Sizes

This pattern is written for Adult Medium with adjustments given in brackets.

- **Small/Women's:** [40 stitches] - 20cm (8") foot circumference
- **Medium/Men's:** 44 stitches - 22cm (8.75") foot circumference  
- **Large:** [48 stitches] - 24cm (9.5") foot circumference

## Special Techniques

- **Knitting in the round** with double-pointed needles
- **Heel flap construction** (traditional method)
- **Kitchener stitch** for toe closure

*Note: This pattern makes ONE pair (2 socks)*

## Pattern Instructions

### Cuff
Using long-tail cast on, cast on 44 stitches [40, 48].

Divide stitches evenly among 3 needles: 15-15-14 stitches [14-13-13, 16-16-16].

Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.

**Rounds 1-15:** *K2, p2; repeat from * around.

This creates approximately 4cm (1.5") of ribbing for a comfortable, stretchy cuff.

### Leg
**Rounds 16-45:** Knit all stitches (stocking stitch).

This creates approximately 13cm (5") of leg length. Adjust here for longer or shorter legs as desired.

### Heel Flap
The heel flap is worked back and forth on half the stitches.

**Setup:** Knit first 11 stitches [10, 12] of round onto one needle. This needle now holds 22 stitches [20, 24] for the heel. The remaining 22 stitches [20, 24] will be held on the other needles for the instep.

**Row 1 (RS):** *Sl1 purlwise, k1; repeat from * across heel stitches.  
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl1 purlwise, purl to end.

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 22 rows [20, 24], ending with a WS row.

*The slipped stitch pattern creates a sturdy heel and makes picking up stitches easier.*

### Heel Turn
**Row 1 (RS):** K12 [11, 13], ssk, k1, turn.  
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl1, p3, p2tog, p1, turn.  
**Row 3:** Sl1, k4, ssk, k1, turn.  
**Row 4:** Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.

Continue in this manner, working one more stitch before the decrease each row until all heel stitches have been worked.

You should have 12 stitches [11, 13] remaining on the heel needle.

### Gusset
**Setup Round:**
- With heel needle, pick up and knit 11 stitches [10, 12] along left side of heel flap
- With needles 2 and 3, knit across the 22 instep stitches [20, 24]  
- With a new needle, pick up and knit 11 stitches [10, 12] along right side of heel flap, then knit 6 stitches [5, 6] from heel needle

**Stitch distribution:** 17-11-11-17 stitches [15-10-10-15, 18-12-12-18]  
**Total:** 56 stitches [50, 60]

**Gusset Decrease Rounds:**
**Round 1:**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
- Needles 2 and 3: Knit all stitches
- Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat these 2 rounds until you have 44 stitches [40, 48] total - back to the original cast-on number.

### Foot
Continue knitting in rounds until foot measures 18cm [16cm, 20cm] from back of heel, or approximately 5cm (2") less than desired total foot length.

### Toe Decreases
**Decrease Round:**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end  
- Needle 3: Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
- Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Even Round:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 20 stitches [16, 24] remain.

Then work decrease round every round until 8 stitches remain.

### Finishing
Cut yarn leaving a 30cm (12") tail.

Divide stitches onto 2 needles: 4 stitches on each needle.

Use Kitchener stitch to graft the toe closed.

**Basic Kitchener Stitch:**
1. Set up with yarn threaded on tapestry needle
2. Insert needle purlwise through first stitch on front needle, pull through
3. Insert needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle, pull through
4. *Insert needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle, slip off; insert purlwise through next stitch, pull through
5. Insert needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle, slip off; insert knitwise through next stitch, pull through*
6. Repeat from * until all stitches are grafted

Weave in ends securely.

## Second Sock
Work exactly as for first sock.

## Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with wool detergent. Reshape and dry flat away from direct heat.

## Notes for Success

- **Tension consistency:** Keep your knitting tension even throughout - loose stitches will create holes that wear quickly
- **Heel reinforcement:** The slipped stitch pattern in the heel creates extra durability
- **Fit adjustments:** If socks are too loose, try needles one size smaller; if too tight, try one size larger
- **Length adjustments:** Add or subtract rounds in the leg and foot sections as needed for perfect fit

This traditional cuff-down construction allows you to try on your sock as you work to ensure proper fit. The heel flap method is forgiving and creates a comfortable, well-fitting sock perfect for beginners.

*Remember: proper gauge and even tension are the keys to successful sock knitting!*