purlJam

# Basic Worsted Weight Socks
*A beginner-friendly top-down sock pattern*

**Difficulty Level:** Beginner  
**Yarn Weight:** Worsted (4)

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** 200-250 yards worsted weight yarn (machine washable wool or wool blend recommended for durability)

**Needles:** Set of 4 or 5 double-pointed needles (DPNs) size US 7 (4.5mm), or size needed to obtain gauge

**Notions:**
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Scissors

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## GAUGE

**18 stitches and 24 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch**

*Gauge is critical for proper fit. Take time to make a gauge swatch and adjust needle size if necessary.*

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## SIZES

**Small:** 7-8 inch foot circumference, up to 9 inch foot length  
**Medium:** 8-9 inch foot circumference, up to 10 inch foot length  
**Large:** 9-10 inch foot circumference, up to 11 inch foot length

*Pattern is written for Medium with Small and Large in parentheses: Medium (Small, Large)*

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- k = knit
- p = purl
- k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- m1 = make 1 increase (lift bar between stitches and knit into back)
- pm = place marker
- sl = slip
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- yo = yarn over

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### CUFF
Cast on 36 (32, 40) stitches using the long-tail cast on method. Divide stitches evenly among 3 or 4 needles.

Join in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker to indicate beginning of round.

**Ribbing:** Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 1.5 inches (12 rounds).

### LEG
Work in stockinette stitch (knit all stitches every round) for 4 inches (24 rounds) or desired length to ankle.

### HEEL FLAP
The heel flap is worked back and forth on 18 (16, 20) stitches. The remaining 18 (16, 20) stitches will be held for the instep.

**Setup:** Knit 18 (16, 20) stitches. Turn work. These stitches will form the heel flap. Place remaining stitches on spare needles or holders.

**Row 1 (WS):** Sl1, purl across.
**Row 2 (RS):** *Sl1, k1; repeat from * across.

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 18 (16, 20) rows, ending with a RS row.

### TURN HEEL
**Row 1 (WS):** Sl1, p9 (8, 11), p2tog, p1, turn.
**Row 2 (RS):** Sl1, k3, ssk, k1, turn.
**Row 3:** Sl1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn.
**Row 4:** Sl1, k5, ssk, k1, turn.
**Row 5:** Sl1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.
**Row 6:** Sl1, k7, ssk, k1, turn.

Continue in this manner until all heel stitches have been worked. You should have 10 (8, 12) stitches remaining.

### GUSSET
**Setup:** With needle holding heel stitches, pick up and knit 9 (8, 10) stitches along left side of heel flap. With a new needle, knit across the 18 (16, 20) instep stitches. With a new needle, pick up and knit 9 (8, 10) stitches along right side of heel flap, then knit 5 (4, 6) stitches from heel needle.

You should now have:
- Needle 1: 14 (12, 16) stitches
- Needle 2: 18 (16, 20) stitches (instep)  
- Needle 3: 14 (12, 16) stitches
- Total: 46 (40, 52) stitches

**Gusset Decreases:**
**Round 1:**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: Knit across
- Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat these 2 rounds until you have 36 (32, 40) stitches total: 9 (8, 10) stitches on needle 1, 18 (16, 20) stitches on needle 2, and 9 (8, 10) stitches on needle 3.

### FOOT
Continue knitting in rounds without decreasing until foot measures 2 inches less than desired finished length from back of heel.

### TOE SHAPING
**Round 1:**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 16 (16, 20) stitches remain.

Then work Round 1 only (decrease every round) until 8 stitches remain.

### FINISHING
Cut yarn leaving a 12-inch tail. Thread tail through remaining 8 stitches and pull tight to close toe. Weave in all ends securely.

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## HELPFUL NOTES

1. **Gauge matters:** These socks are designed with negative ease (they should stretch to fit). The finished sock will be about 10% smaller than the actual foot measurement.

2. **Heel flap length:** A longer heel flap creates a deeper heel cup. If you have a high instep, work 2-4 additional rows.

3. **Toe shaping:** Try the sock on as you work the toe decreases. Stop decreasing when the toe fits comfortably.

4. **Yarn choice:** Wool blends with nylon provide the best combination of warmth, stretch, and durability for socks.

5. **Customizing length:** Adjust the leg and foot lengths as desired while maintaining the heel and toe construction.

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## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry for best results. Many superwash wools can be machine washed on gentle cycle.

*Congratulations on completing your first pair of hand-knit socks! The techniques you've learned here form the foundation for countless sock variations.*