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# Beginner Mosaic Top-Down Raglan Cardigan: Cardinal & Green

This pattern describes how to knit a seamless, top-down raglan cardigan using a simple mosaic (slipped stitch) pattern in red and green worsted weight yarn. The raglan shaping creates a comfortable fit around the shoulders, and integrated button bands simplify finishing.

**Difficulty Level:** Beginner

## Sizes
Medium (M)
*To adjust for other sizes, swatch carefully and modify initial stitch counts and increase rates based on your personal gauge. Body and sleeve lengths can be adjusted by adding/subtracting rows.*

## Gauge
20 stitches and 28 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in Stockinette stitch on Main Bed.
*Please swatch carefully in the mosaic pattern to confirm your gauge. Mosaic fabric can have a slightly different row gauge than plain Stockinette.*

## Materials
*   **Yarn:** Worsted weight yarn (approx. 10 ply)
    *   Main Color (MC): Red, approx. 600-700 meters (650-760 yards)
    *   Contrast Color (CC): Green, approx. 400-500 meters (430-550 yards)
*   **Knitting Machine:** Standard Gauge Single Bed knitting machine (e.g., Brother KH series, Silver Reed SK series). Ribber recommended for mock ribbing.
*   **Tools:**
    *   Ravel cord or Waste yarn
    *   Cast-on comb and weights
    *   Transfer tools (1x1, 1x2, 2x1, 3-prong)
    *   Latch tool
    *   Punch card (for mosaic pattern, if applicable)
    *   Stitch holders or spare waste yarn for sleeves
    *   Scissors
    *   Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
    *   4-5 Buttons (approx. 1.5-2 cm diameter)

## Terminology & Abbreviations
*   **RC:** Row Counter
*   **COL:** Carriage On Left
*   **COR:** Carriage On Right
*   **MC:** Main Color (Red)
*   **CC:** Contrast Color (Green)
*   **BB:** Button Band
*   **NDL(s):** Needle(s)
*   **N**: Number of needles (e.g., N0 = center needle)
*   **K**: Knit
*   **SL**: Slip (or hold, depends on machine setting for mosaic)
*   **TRF**: Transfer
*   **EON**: Every Other Needle
*   **CO**: Cast On
*   **BO**: Bind Off

## Mosaic Pattern Note (Beginner Friendly Checkerboard)
This pattern uses a simple 4-stitch, 4-row mosaic repeat.
*   **Punch Card Setup (Brother KH series example):**
    *   Use a blank punch card.
    *   Punch holes at positions:
        *   Row 1: X O X O (punch N1, N3)
        *   Row 2: X O X O (punch N1, N3)
        *   Row 3: O X O X (punch N2, N4)
        *   Row 4: O X O X (punch N2, N4)
    *   Repeat this 4-row pattern vertically and horizontally.
    *   Set **Pattern Dial** to 'Part' (for Brother) or equivalent Slip Stitch setting on your machine.
    *   Ensure **Punch Card Lever** is engaged.
*   **Color Change:**
    *   Work Rows 1-2 of the pattern with MC (Red).
    *   Work Rows 3-4 of the pattern with CC (Green).
    *   Repeat this 4-row (2-color) sequence. This means you change yarn every 2 rows.

## Instructions: Top-Down Raglan Cardigan (Size M)

**Final Calculated Dimensions (approximate):**
*   **Bust Circumference:** 101 cm (40.4 inches)
*   **Body Length (from neck):** 55 cm (22 inches)
*   **Sleeve Length (from neck):** 68 cm (27 inches)
*   **Upper Arm Circumference:** 40 cm (16 inches)

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### Part 1: Neckband & Yoke

**Machine Setup:**
1.  Set up your knitting machine with the main bed. Ensure all needles are in working position (FWP - Full Working Position).
2.  Set tension dial to a slightly looser setting for waste yarn CO (e.g., T8).
3.  Thread waste yarn into the carriage.

**Neckband Mock Ribbing - Step by Step:**
1.  **CO Waste Yarn**: CO 84 needles using a ravel cord or waste yarn. For a clean mock rib, CO 84 needles (e.g., N42L to N42R).
2.  Knit 10 rows with waste yarn. RC=0. COR.
3.  **Attach Main Yarn**: Cut waste yarn. Attach MC (Red) yarn. Set tension dial to T6.
4.  Knit 2 rows MC. RC=2. COL.
5.  **Mock Ribbing**:
    *   TRF every 2nd stitch (EON) to the adjacent needle (e.g., TRF N1 to N2, N3 to N4, etc.). All even-numbered needles should now hold 2 stitches, and all odd-numbered needles are empty.
    *   Push empty needles back to non-working position (NWP).
    *   Knit 2 rows MC. RC=4. COL.
    *   TRF stitches back to EON (e.g., TRF N2 (2 stitches) back to N1, N4 (2 stitches) back to N3, etc.). All needles should again hold 1 stitch.
    *   Push empty needles back to NWP.
    *   Knit 2 rows MC. RC=6. COL.
6.  Repeat mock ribbing steps (TRF EON, K2 rows, TRF back) one more time. RC=10. COL. This forms a mock 1x1 rib.
7.  **Yarn Change Preparation**: Cut MC. Attach CC (Green) yarn. Set tension dial to T5 (standard for mosaic).

**Yoke & Raglan Shaping (Mosaic Pattern):**
*   **Initial Stitch Distribution (Total 84 NDLs, N42L to N42R):**
    *   N42L to N37L: Front Left Button Band (FL_BB = 6 sts)
    *   N36L to N33L: Front Left Panel (FL_P = 4 sts)
    *   N32L: Raglan Marker 1 (M1 = 1 st)
    *   N31L to N22L: Sleeve Left (SL = 10 sts)
    *   N21L: Raglan Marker 2 (M2 = 1 st)
    *   N20L to N1L & N1R to N20R: Back (B = 40 sts) *(N0 is not a working needle here, use N1L and N1R as the center pair)*
    *   N21R: Raglan Marker 3 (M3 = 1 st)
    *   N22R to N31R: Sleeve Right (SR = 10 sts)
    *   N32R: Raglan Marker 4 (M4 = 1 st)
    *   N33R to N36R: Front Right Panel (FR_P = 4 sts)
    *   N37R to N42R: Front Right Button Band (FR_BB = 6 sts)
    *   *(Self-validation: 6+4+1+10+1+40+1+10+1+4+6 = 84 stitches. Correct.)*

8.  **Activate Mosaic Pattern**: Engage punch card. Set carriage to KCII (or equivalent slip stitch setting).
9.  **Raglan Increases**: You will make 32 increase rows (64 total rows) for the yoke. Increases are made every 2nd row (on both COL and COR passes), by picking up a loop from the row below and hanging it onto the needle adjacent to each raglan marker.
    *   **RC 0 (after mock ribbing):** Carriage on COL. Yarn MC (Red).
    *   **Raglan Increase Cycle (Repeat 32 times for 64 rows total):**
        *   **Row 1 (MC, COL):** Knit 1st row of mosaic pattern. BEFORE knitting, use a 1x1 transfer tool to **Increase**:
            *   Left side of M1: Hang a loop from row below onto NDL to left of M1.
            *   Right side of M1: Hang a loop from row below onto NDL to right of M1.
            *   Repeat for M2, M3, M4. (Total 8 increases this row).
            *   Knit across. RC advances by 1. COR.
        *   **Row 2 (MC, COR):** Knit 2nd row of mosaic pattern. BEFORE knitting, **Increase** as in Row 1.
            *   Knit across. RC advances by 1. COL. *(Total increases this color cycle = 16 increases, 8 per row)*
        *   **Change to CC (Green) yarn.**
        *   **Row 3 (CC, COL):** Knit 3rd row of mosaic pattern. BEFORE knitting, **Increase** as in Row 1.
            *   Knit across. RC advances by 1. COR.
        *   **Row 4 (CC, COR):** Knit 4th row of mosaic pattern. BEFORE knitting, **Increase** as in Row 1.
            *   Knit across. RC advances by 1. COL. *(Total increases this color cycle = 16 increases, 8 per row)*
        *   **Change to MC (Red) yarn.**
    *   *(Self-validation: Each 4-row sequence adds 16 stitches. Over 32 increase rounds, that's 32 * 2 = 64 rows. Each set of 2 rows has 8 increases. So 64 rows / 2 rows per increase-set = 32 increase-sets. 32 increase-sets * 8 increases/set = 256 total increases. Initial 84 stitches + 256 increases = 340 stitches. Correct.)*

10. **After 64 rows (RC 74 total, from start of mock ribbing, 64 rows of mosaic), you should have 340 stitches on the machine.** Yoke depth is approx. 22.8 cm (9 inches).
    *   Carriage is on COL. Yarn is MC (Red).

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### Part 2: Separate Sleeves & Knit Body

**Stitch Distribution before Separation (RC 74):**
*   FL_BB (6 sts) + FL_P (4+32=36 sts) = 42 sts
*   M1 (1 st)
*   SL (10+32+32=74 sts)
*   M2 (1 st)
*   B (40+32+32=104 sts)
*   M3 (1 st)
*   SR (10+32+32=74 sts)
*   M4 (1 st)
*   FR_P (4+32=36 sts) + FR_BB (6 sts) = 42 sts
*   *(Self-validation: 42+1+74+1+104+1+74+1+42 = 340 stitches. Correct.)*

1.  **Transfer Sleeve Stitches to Waste Yarn**:
    *   Identify the Sleeve Left (SL) stitches (74 NDLs, between M1 and M2).
    *   Carefully transfer these 74 stitches onto a length of waste yarn or a stitch holder. Move these needles to NWP.
    *   Identify the Sleeve Right (SR) stitches (74 NDLs, between M3 and M4).
    *   Carefully transfer these 74 stitches onto a length of waste yarn or a stitch holder. Move these needles to NWP.

2.  **Cast On Underarm Stitches**:
    *   The raglan marker stitches (M1, M2, M3, M4) will now be absorbed into the body.
    *   The stitches remaining on the main bed are for the body. The gaps created by removing the sleeves are the underarms.
    *   **Underarm 1 (between FL_P & B):** Use a latch tool or 3-prong transfer tool to CO 6 stitches. These are new stitches replacing M1 and M2, and adding underarm ease.
    *   **Underarm 2 (between B & FR_P):** Use a latch tool or 3-prong transfer tool to CO 6 stitches. These are new stitches replacing M3 and M4, and adding underarm ease.
    *   *(Self-validation: Body stitches: (FL_BB 6 + FL_P 36) + (M1 1 + B 104 + M3 1) + (FR_P 36 + FR_BB 6) = 42 + 106 + 42 = 190 stitches. Add 6+6=12 underarm stitches. Total Body stitches = 190 + 12 = 202 stitches. Correct.)*

3.  **Resume Knitting Body (202 stitches on the machine)**:
    *   Bring all 202 needles into working position (FWP).
    *   Carriage on COL, yarn MC (Red).
    *   Continue knitting in mosaic pattern (4-row repeat, alternating MC/CC every 2 rows).
    *   **Buttonholes (for women's cardigan, right front BB, for men's, left front BB):** Create 4-5 buttonholes evenly spaced on one of the front button bands (e.g., FR_BB for women).
        *   **Buttonhole placement (approx.):** Place the first buttonhole about 10 rows after separation (RC 84). Subsequent buttonholes every 20-25 rows.
        *   **To make a buttonhole (RC 84, RC 109, RC 134, RC 159, RC 184):**
            *   On the chosen BB, identify 2 needles where the buttonhole will be.
            *   TRF the stitch from N1 to N2, and from N2 to N3 (or similar, depending on placement). This creates 2 empty needles.
            *   Knit 2 rows (COL to COR, COR to COL). The empty needles will form the buttonhole.
            *   Before the next carriage pass, use a 1x1 transfer tool to pick up a loop from the row below the empty needles and place it on each empty needle to stabilize the buttonhole.
            *   Continue mosaic pattern.
    *   Knit for 98 rows (approx. 35 cm / 14 inches) from separation. RC will be 74 + 98 = 172. COL.

4.  **Body Hem (Mock Ribbing)**:
    *   Set tension to T6.
    *   Knit 2 rows MC. RC=174. COL.
    *   TRF every 2nd stitch (EON) to the adjacent needle. Push empty needles back to NWP.
    *   Knit 2 rows MC. RC=176. COL.
    *   TRF stitches back to EON. Push empty needles back to NWP.
    *   Knit 2 rows MC. RC=178. COL.
    *   Repeat mock ribbing steps one more time (TRF EON, K2 rows, TRF back). RC=182. COL.
    *   Knit 2 rows MC. RC=184. COL.
    *   **Bind Off:** Using a latch tool, bind off all 202 stitches. Cut yarn, leaving a tail for weaving.

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### Part 3: Sleeves

**Prepare Sleeves (Repeat for both sleeves):**
1.  **Rehang Stitches**: Carefully rehang the 74 sleeve stitches from the waste yarn/holder onto the main bed needles (N37L to N32L and N32R to N37R if using center for reference, or N0-N37L and N0-N37R for single sleeve). Ensure correct orientation.
2.  **Cast On Underarm Stitches**: Use a latch tool to CO 6 stitches at the underarm (where the sleeve meets the body). Total 74 + 6 = 80 stitches.
3.  Bring all 80 needles into FWP.
4.  Carriage on COL, yarn MC (Red).
5.  Set tension dial to T5. Engage punch card, KCII. RC=0.

**Sleeve Shaping & Length:**
1.  **Body Length:** Knit 126 rows (approx. 45 cm / 18 inches) in mosaic pattern.
2.  **Sleeve Decreases:** To shape the sleeve from 80 stitches to 50 stitches (30 stitches total, 15 decreases per side).
    *   Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the sleeve (total 2 stitches decreased per decrease row) every 8th row.
    *   **Decrease Method**: On COL pass, use a 1x2 transfer tool to move N1 and N2 to N3. On COR pass, move N80 and N79 to N78. *Adjust needle numbers for your specific setup if not starting from N1 and N80.*
    *   **Decrease Schedule:**
        *   Knit 8 rows. RC=8. Decrease. (78 sts)
        *   Knit 8 rows. RC=16. Decrease. (76 sts)
        *   ...
        *   Repeat 15 times in total. (15 * 8 rows = 120 rows).
        *   After 15 decreases, you will have 80 - (15*2) = 50 stitches. RC will be 120.
    *   Knit remaining 6 rows to reach 126 rows. RC=126. COL.

**Sleeve Cuff (Mock Ribbing):**
1.  Set tension to T6.
2.  Knit 2 rows MC. RC=128. COL.
3.  TRF every 2nd stitch (EON) to the adjacent needle. Push empty needles back to NWP.
4.  Knit 2 rows MC. RC=130. COL.
5.  TRF stitches back to EON. Push empty needles back to NWP.
6.  Knit 2 rows MC. RC=132. COL.
7.  Repeat mock ribbing steps one more time (TRF EON, K2 rows, TRF back). RC=136. COL.
8.  Knit 2 rows MC. RC=138. COL.
9.  **Bind Off:** Using a latch tool, bind off all 50 stitches. Cut yarn, leaving a tail for weaving.

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### Part 4: Finishing

1.  **Weave in Ends:** Using a tapestry needle, carefully weave in all yarn ends.
2.  **Seaming (if applicable):** If you knit the sleeves flat, seam them using a mattress stitch.
3.  **Block Cardigan:** Gently steam block the entire cardigan to relax the stitches and ensure correct measurements. Use blocking weights if desired to maintain shape.
4.  **Attach Buttons:** Sew buttons onto the button band opposite the buttonholes.
5.  **Final Inspection:** Check for any dropped stitches or irregularities. Trim any remaining loose ends.

Your Beginner Mosaic Top-Down Raglan Cardigan is complete!