Boxy Boatneck Drop-Shoulder Pullover

A Beginner-Friendly Worsted-Weight Sweater

Note: This pattern was written from your template and specifications. I was unable to view the linked image, so this is a classic interpretation. Send me any specific design details (stripes, texture, cropped length, etc.) and I'll adapt it.

Skill Level

Beginner — worked in simple rectangles with minimal shaping. If you can knit, purl, cast on, bind off, and pick up stitches, you can make this sweater.

Sizes

Ease: Designed with 6–8" of positive ease for a relaxed, boxy fit. Choose the size closest to your actual chest measurement + 6–8", or size up for extra-oversized.

Instructions are written for the smallest size with larger sizes in parentheses: S (M, L, XL, 2XL). When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted weight (#4 medium), approximately:
  • 1150 (1300, 1450, 1600, 1750) yds / 1050 (1190, 1330, 1465, 1600) m
• Needles:
  • US 8 / 5 mm — for main body and sleeves
  • US 6 / 4 mm — for ribbing (hem, cuffs, neckband)
  • 24" or 32" circular for body panels (worked flat) and 16" circular or DPNs for sleeves
• Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch markers, waste yarn or stitch holders

Gauge

18 sts × 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 8 / 5 mm, blocked.

⚠️ Check your gauge! Gauge determines fit. Work a 6" swatch, block it, and measure. Adjust needle size as needed.

Abbreviations

• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• rib = k1, p1 ribbing
• rep = repeat

Construction Overview

This sweater is built as two flat rectangles (Back and Front) — no armhole shaping. The shoulders are seamed, leaving the center open for a boatneck. Sleeves are then picked up along the straight armhole edges and worked down to the cuff. Finally, the side and sleeve seams are sewn in one line.

BACK

With US 6 / 4 mm needles, CO 99 (108, 117, 126, 135) sts.

Ribbing: Row 1 (RS): *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 2 (WS): *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1. Rep Rows 1–2 until rib measures 2" (5 cm), ending with a WS row.

✔️ Math check: 99 sts ÷ 18 sts/4" = 5.5 × 4 = 22" panel width. 22 × 2 panels = 44" chest (S). ✓

Body: Change to US 8 / 5 mm needles. Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2 (WS): Purl. Rep Rows 1–2 in stockinette until piece measures 24 (25, 25, 26, 26)" from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

BO all sts loosely. Place removable markers to mark the shoulder and neck sections (see Shoulder Join below).

FRONT

Work exactly as for the Back, including length.

Because this is a boatneck, there is no neck shaping — the Front is an identical rectangle to the Back. The neckline opening is created simply by leaving the center stitches unseamed when joining the shoulders.

BO all sts loosely.

SHOULDER JOIN (Boatneck)

Lay the Front and Back with right sides together (or use mattress stitch on the RS).

Each panel has 99 (108, 117, 126, 135) stitches across the top edge. Divide as follows:

✔️ Math check (S): 27 + 45 + 27 = 99 ✓. Neck opening = 45 sts ÷ 18 × 4 = 10". A comfortable boatneck width. (M): 30 + 48 + 30 = 108 ✓ | (L): 32 + 53 + 32 = 117 ✓ | (XL): 35 + 56 + 35 = 126 ✓ | (2XL): 38 + 59 + 38 = 135 ✓

Seam the shoulders:

1. Starting at each outer armhole edge, seam 27 (30, 32, 35, 38) sts of Front to Back using mattress stitch or a 3-needle bind-off.
2. Leave the center 45 (48, 53, 56, 59) sts unseamed on both Front and Back — this forms the boatneck opening.
3. Repeat for the second shoulder.

SLEEVES (Picked up and worked down)

Sew a locking marker 9 (9.5, 10, 10.5, 11)" down from the shoulder seam on both the Front and Back panels. This distance is your armhole depth — the seam sits well down the upper arm for the classic dropped-shoulder look.

With US 8 / 5 mm needles and RS facing, begin at the underarm point on one side. Pick up and knit stitches evenly along the armhole edge:

• Pick up 41 (43, 45, 47, 50) sts up the Front edge to the shoulder seam,
• then 41 (43, 45, 47, 50) sts down the Back edge to the underarm.

Total picked up: 82 (86, 90, 94, 100) sts.

✔️ Math check (S): Armhole depth 9" × 2 sides = 18" of edge. 18" × (24 rows ÷ 4") = 108 rows, but sleeves are picked up at ~3 sts per 4 rows along a row edge: 18" × (18 sts/4") ≈ 81 → rounded to 82 (even). ✓

Join to work in the round (or work flat if seaming later). Place a marker at the underarm to mark beginning of round.

Sleeve body: Work in stockinette (knit every round if in the round; if flat, knit RS / purl WS) for 1" (2.5 cm).

Sleeve shaping (taper toward cuff): Decrease Round: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts decreased) Rep Decrease Round every 6th round (6th, 5th, 5th, 4th) a total of 14 (15, 16, 17, 19) times.

Stitch count after shaping: 82 − 28 = 54 (86 − 30 = 56, 90 − 32 = 58, 94 − 34 = 60, 100 − 38 = 62) sts.

✔️ Math check (S): 54 sts ÷ 18 × 4 = 12" cuff circumference before ribbing. Comfortable fit. ✓

Continue without further shaping until sleeve measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17)" from pick-up edge, or 2" less than desired total sleeve length.

Cuff: Change to US 6 / 4 mm needles. Work k1, p1 rib for 2" (5 cm).

Note: If your stitch count is odd for ribbing, decrease 1 st on the first rib round to make it even. For S (54), M (56), L (58), XL (60), 2XL (62) — all even. ✓

BO all sts loosely in rib.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

NECKBAND (Boatneck Finishing)

The boatneck can be left as a clean bound-off edge, or finished with a tidy ribbed band. For a polished, non-curling look:

With US 6 / 4 mm 16" circular needle and RS facing, begin at one shoulder seam. Pick up and knit stitches around the neck opening:

• 45 (48, 53, 56, 59) sts across the Front neck,
• 45 (48, 53, 56, 59) sts across the Back neck.

Total: 90 (96, 106, 112, 118) sts (all even ✓).

Join to work in the round. Place marker. Work k1, p1 rib for 1" (2.5 cm). BO all sts loosely in rib.

FINISHING

1. Side and sleeve seams: With RS together (or mattress stitch on RS), sew each side seam from the sleeve cuff, down the underarm, and along the body side down to the hem in one continuous line. Match the ribbing at hem and cuff.
2. Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle.
3. Block the finished sweater to the measurements in the size chart. Lay flat, gently shape to dimensions, and allow to dry completely.

Finished Measurements Summary

Tips for Success

• Pick up evenly: For the smoothest armhole, place markers at quarter points and distribute pick-up stitches evenly between them.
• Loose bind-offs: A too-tight bind-off at the cuffs or neck will restrict movement. Use a needle one size larger if needed.
• Customize length: For a cropped version, shorten the body to 18–20". For a tunic, add 3–4". Adjust yarn quantity accordingly.

Enjoy your cozy, boxy pullover! 🧶