Bruma V-Neck Mohair Vest

A relaxed, airy sweater vest in stocking stitch, designed as a lightweight layering piece. Worked flat from the bottom up in two pieces, with a 2×2 rib hem, a classic V-neck, and 1×1 rib trims at the neck and armholes. The fabric is knitted on 7 mm needles so a worsted-weight mohair blend opens into a soft, drapey halo.

Skill level: Intermediate
Fit: Relaxed / oversized (approx. 11–17 cm positive ease)

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

Figures in parentheses are given for larger sizes. When only one figure is shown, it applies to all sizes. To follow your size, highlight or circle the relevant figure throughout.

To fit bust: 81 (86, 97, 107, 117, 132) cm [32 (34, 38, 42, 46, 52) in]

Finished bust: 97 (103, 114, 120, 131, 143) cm [38¼ (40½, 45, 47¼, 51½, 56¼) in]

Finished length (back, from shoulder): 58 (60, 62, 64, 66, 68) cm [22¾ (23½, 24½, 25¼, 26, 26¾) in]

Armhole depth: 22 (23, 24, 25, 26.5, 28) cm [8¾ (9, 9½, 9¾, 10½, 11) in]

Back neck width: 15.5 (17, 18.5, 18.5, 20, 21.5) cm [6 (6¾, 7¼, 7¼, 8, 8½) in]

Each shoulder width: 11.5 (11.5, 13, 13.5, 15, 16.5) cm [4½ (4½, 5, 5¼, 6, 6½) in]

Choose a size by finished bust, not only by “to fit”. Sample ease is about 16 (17, 17, 13, 14, 11) cm [6¼ (6¾, 6¾, 5, 5½, 4¼) in]. For a closer layer, go down one size; for a very oversized look, go up one size.

Yarn

Worsted-weight mohair-blend yarn (or a comparable brushed alpaca / wool / mohair blend) with approx. 150–175 m per 50 g.

Metreage: 450 (500, 550, 600, 700, 800) m [490 (545, 600, 655, 765, 875) yd]

Allow 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) × 50 g balls if the ball length is about 150 m; buy an extra ball if your yarn is shorter, or if you lengthen the body.

Suggested character: a single-strand worsted with a halo (mohair, brushed alpaca, or a mohair–wool blend). A lace-weight mohair held with a light DK/worsted wool may be substituted only if the paired yarns match the tension below.

Needles and notions

• 7 mm (UK 2 / US 10¾) needles — straight, or a circular 80 cm, for the body
• 6 mm (UK 4 / US 10) needles — circular 40 cm and 80 cm recommended, for ribbing and picked-up edges
• Spare 7 mm needle for three-needle cast-off
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• 4 stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Blocking mats and pins (wires helpful for the V-neck)

Tension (gauge)

14 stitches and 18 rows = 10 cm [4 in] over stocking stitch on 7 mm needles, after blocking.

Work a swatch at least 15 × 15 cm, wash and dry it as you will treat the vest, then measure the centre 10 cm.

• If you have more than 14 sts to 10 cm, switch to a larger needle.
• If you have fewer than 14 sts to 10 cm, switch to a smaller needle.

Row tension affects armhole depth and V-neck length. If your row tension differs, follow centimetre measurements, not row counts.

Abbreviations (UK knitting)

1×1 rib (even st count, worked flat): RS: *k1, p1; rep from * to end. WS: *k1, p1; rep from * to end (knit the knits, purl the purls).
1×1 rib in the round: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of round.
2×2 rib (multiple of 4, worked flat): RS: *k2, p2; rep from * to end. WS: *k2, p2; rep from * to end (knit the knits, purl the purls).

Pattern notes

• The vest is worked flat, in two pieces, from the hem up. Shoulders are joined, then the neckband is picked up, then the side seams are joined, then the armhole bands are picked up.
• One selvedge stitch is included at each side and is used for seaming. Work it in stocking stitch unless a decrease is specified.
• Mohair and brushed yarns lock together: correct mistakes early. Seams are worked with mattress stitch, taking one full stitch from each edge.
• Block the pieces before seaming so the V-neck and armholes settle to size.
• When two shaping instructions happen “at the same time”, complete both on the stated rows; once one shaping is finished, keep working the other.

Back

With 6 mm needles, cast on 68 (72, 80, 84, 92, 100) sts.

Rib row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Rib row 2 (WS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

These 2 rows form 2×2 rib. Cont in rib until the hem meas 6 cm [2¼ in], ending with a WS row.

Change to 7 mm needles.

Beg with a RS (knit) row, work in stocking stitch until the Back meas 36 (37, 38, 39, 39.5, 40) cm [14¼ (14½, 15, 15¼, 15½, 15¾) in] from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes

Next row (RS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts, k to end.
Next row (WS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts, p to end.
60 (64, 70, 74, 80, 88) sts remain.
[68 − 4 − 4 = 60; 72 − 8 = 64; 80 − 10 = 70; 84 − 10 = 74; 92 − 12 = 80; 100 − 12 = 88 ✓]

Dec row (RS): K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)
Next row (WS): Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows a further 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5) times.
3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) decrease rows worked in total.
54 (56, 62, 64, 70, 76) sts remain.
[60 − 6 = 54; 64 − 8 = 56; 70 − 8 = 62; 74 − 10 = 64; 80 − 10 = 70; 88 − 12 = 76 ✓]

Cont even in st st until the armhole meas 20 (21, 22, 23, 24.5, 26) cm [8 (8¼, 8¾, 9, 9¾, 10¼) in], ending with a WS row.

Shape back neck

Next row (RS): K 18 (18, 20, 21, 23, 25), turn, leaving rem sts on a holder.

Work the right back shoulder first (as worn).

Next row (WS): P2tog, p to end.
Next row (RS): K to last 2 sts, k2tog.
16 (16, 18, 19, 21, 23) sts remain. [18 − 2 = 16; 20 − 2 = 18; 21 − 2 = 19; 23 − 2 = 21; 25 − 2 = 23 ✓]
Next row (WS): Purl.

Leave these 16 (16, 18, 19, 21, 23) sts on a holder for the right shoulder.

With RS facing, rejoin yarn to the remaining sts. Cast off the centre 18 (20, 22, 22, 24, 26) sts, k to end. 18 (18, 20, 21, 23, 25) sts for the left back shoulder.
[18 + 18 + 18 = 54; 18 + 20 + 18 = 56; 20 + 22 + 20 = 62; 21 + 22 + 21 = 64; 23 + 24 + 23 = 70; 25 + 26 + 25 = 76 ✓]

Next row (WS): P to last 2 sts, p2tog.
Next row (RS): Ssk, k to end.
16 (16, 18, 19, 21, 23) sts remain.
Next row (WS): Purl.

Leave these sts on a holder for the left shoulder.

The armhole should now meas 22 (23, 24, 25, 26.5, 28) cm [8¾ (9, 9½, 9¾, 10½, 11) in]. If it is short, work extra even rows on each shoulder before placing sts on holders, matching both sides.

Front

Work as for Back until the Front meas 36 (37, 38, 39, 39.5, 40) cm [14¼ (14½, 15, 15¼, 15½, 15¾) in] from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. 68 (72, 80, 84, 92, 100) sts.

Armholes and V-neck begin on the same row.

Divide for V-neck and armholes

Next row (RS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts, k until there are 30 (32, 35, 37, 40, 44) sts on the right-hand needle (counting the st already on the needle after the cast-off), turn. Leave the rem sts on a holder for the Left Front.

This is the Right Front (as worn).
[Half of 68 = 34, minus 4 armhole sts = 30; 36 − 4 = 32; 40 − 5 = 35; 42 − 5 = 37; 46 − 6 = 40; 50 − 6 = 44 ✓]

Right Front (as worn)

Next row (WS): Purl.

Shape the armhole at the beg of RS rows, and the V-neck at the end of RS rows, at the same time as follows.

Armhole: Dec 1 st at the armhole edge on the next 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) RS rows, working the armhole edge as k1, ssk, then k across.

V-neck: Dec 1 st at the neck edge on the next 3 (4, 5, 3, 4, 5) RS rows, then on every foll 4th row (i.e. every other RS row) 8 (8, 8, 10, 10, 10) times, working the neck edge as k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Combined RS row while both shapings are active: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Once the armhole decreases are complete, omit the armhole decrease and work even at the armhole edge. Cont the neck decreases on schedule. After all neck decreases, work even until the armhole meas the same as the Back to the shoulder, ending with a WS row.

16 (16, 18, 19, 21, 23) sts remain.
[30 − 3 armhole − 11 neck = 16; 32 − 4 − 12 = 16; 35 − 4 − 13 = 18; 37 − 5 − 13 = 19; 40 − 5 − 14 = 21; 44 − 6 − 15 = 23 ✓]
Neck decreases total 11 (12, 13, 13, 14, 15).

Leave these sts on a holder.

Left Front (as worn)

With RS facing, rejoin yarn to the remaining 34 (36, 40, 42, 46, 50) sts.

Next row (RS): Knit to end.
Next row (WS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts, p to end.
30 (32, 35, 37, 40, 44) sts remain.

Shape the V-neck at the beg of RS rows, and the armhole at the end of RS rows, at the same time.

V-neck: Dec 1 st at the neck edge on the next 3 (4, 5, 3, 4, 5) RS rows, then on every foll 4th row 8 (8, 8, 10, 10, 10) times, working the neck edge as k1, ssk, then k across.

Armhole: Dec 1 st at the armhole edge on the next 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) RS rows, working the armhole edge as k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Combined RS row while both shapings are active: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Once the armhole decreases are complete, omit the armhole decrease. Cont the neck decreases on schedule, then work even until the armhole matches the Right Front and the Back, ending with a WS row.

16 (16, 18, 19, 21, 23) sts remain.

Leave these sts on a holder.

If the neck decreases finish before the armhole depth is reached, work even to length. If the armhole depth is reached first, keep working the remaining neck decreases while holding the armhole edge even.

Shoulders

Turn the Front and Back WS together (RS outside, ready for a three-needle cast-off that sits on the inside when worn? For a join that sits on the WS: hold pieces RS together).

With RS together, using a spare 7 mm needle, join the 16 (16, 18, 19, 21, 23) left shoulder sts with a three-needle cast-off. Repeat for the right shoulder.

(Alternative: cast off each shoulder separately and join with mattress stitch.)

Neckband

With 6 mm circular needle, RS facing, and beginning at the left shoulder seam, pick up and knit:

• 31 (33, 34, 36, 37, 39) sts evenly down the left front V-neck,
• pm for centre of V,
• 31 (33, 34, 36, 37, 39) sts evenly up the right front V-neck,
• 2 sts across the right shoulder seam,
• 22 (24, 26, 26, 28, 30) sts across the back neck,
• 2 sts across the left shoulder seam.

88 (94, 98, 102, 106, 112) sts. Pm for beg of round.
[31 + 31 + 2 + 22 + 2 = 88; 33 + 33 + 2 + 24 + 2 = 94; 34 + 34 + 2 + 26 + 2 = 98; 36 + 36 + 2 + 26 + 2 = 102; 37 + 37 + 2 + 28 + 2 = 106; 39 + 39 + 2 + 30 + 2 = 112 ✓]

Join to work in the round.

Round 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end, slipping the centre-V marker.

V-neck decrease round: Work in 1×1 rib as set to 2 sts before the centre marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, rib to end of round. (2 sts decreased; the two decreased sts are worked as knits so the V stays sharp.)

Work Round 1 once, then the V-neck decrease round once; rep these 2 rounds until the neckband meas 3 cm [1¼ in], ending with a Round 1.

Cast off loosely in rib (use a 7 mm needle to cast off if the edge feels tight).

Side seams

Join side seams with mattress stitch, from the top of the hem rib to the underarm cast-off, matching rib rows carefully. Leave the armholes open.

Armhole bands

With 6 mm circular needle (40 cm) and RS facing, beginning at the centre of the underarm, pick up and knit:

• 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts across the Front underarm cast-off,
• 30 (32, 33, 35, 36, 38) sts evenly up the Front armhole edge,
• 30 (32, 33, 35, 36, 38) sts evenly down the Back armhole edge,
• 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts across the Back underarm cast-off.

68 (72, 76, 80, 84, 88) sts. Pm for beg of round.
[4 + 30 + 30 + 4 = 68; 4 + 32 + 32 + 4 = 72; 5 + 33 + 33 + 5 = 76; 5 + 35 + 35 + 5 = 80; 6 + 36 + 36 + 6 = 84; 6 + 38 + 38 + 6 = 88 ✓]

Join to work in the round.

Work 1×1 rib (*k1, p1; rep from * to end) until the band meas 3 cm [1¼ in].

Cast off loosely in rib.

Repeat for the second armhole.

Finishing

Weave in ends on the WS, following the direction of the stitches so they disappear into the halo.

Block the vest to the measurements below. For mohair, soak in lukewarm water with a wool wash, press out water in a towel (do not wring), and pin to shape, opening the V-neck and armholes. Allow to dry fully. A light steam from above (never resting the iron on the fabric) will settle the seams.

Schematic measurements (after blocking)

Back width check at tension: 68 sts ÷ 14 × 10 = 48.6 cm; 72 → 51.4 cm; 80 → 57.1 cm; 84 → 60.0 cm; 92 → 65.7 cm; 100 → 71.4 cm. Finished bust = 2 × back width ≈ 97 (103, 114, 120, 131, 143) cm ✓

To adjust

• Length: Add or subtract even rows in stocking stitch before the armhole. Every 4 rows ≈ 2 cm. Recalculate yarn if you add more than 4 cm.
• Cropped: Work to 30–32 cm before armholes for a waist-length vest; keep armhole depth as written.
• Neck depth: For a shallower V, delay the first neck decrease by 4–6 rows and work the remaining neck decreases every 4th row only. For a deeper V, begin 4–6 rows before the armhole and keep the same decrease counts.