purlJam

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# CASCADE LACE TRIANGLE SHAWL
### An Advanced Crochet Pattern

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | Blocked |
|---|---|
| Wingspan (tip to tip) | Approx. 54 inches (137 cm) |
| Depth (center top to bottom point) | Approx. 27 inches (69 cm) |

> **Note:** Lace shawls can vary significantly based on individual gauge and blocking. Measurements given are for blocked piece. Unblocked measurements will be approximately 15–20% smaller.

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## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight yarn (CYCA #4), approx. 800–900 yards (732–823 m)
  - *Sample shown in:* smooth, plant-fiber-blend or superwash merino worsted for best blocking results
  - *Suggested yarns:* Cascade 220 Superwash, Lion Brand Wool-Ease, Paintbox Simply DK Worsted
- **Hook:** US J-10 / 6 mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
- **Notions:**
  - Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
  - Blocking mats and rust-proof T-pins (essential for this pattern)
  - Locking stitch markers (4–6)
  - Measuring tape

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## GAUGE

**14 dc = 4 inches (10 cm)**
**6 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)** in double crochet with worsted weight yarn and US J-10 / 6 mm hook, after blocking.

> **Gauge Swatch Instructions:** Ch 20. Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. (17 dc) Rows 2–8: Ch 3, turn; dc in each st across. Fasten off. Block swatch before measuring. Adjust hook size as needed: go up a hook size if your gauge is too tight, down a size if too loose. Gauge is important for achieving the correct finished dimensions.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| ch-sp | chain space |
| dc | double crochet |
| dc2tog | double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease) |
| rep | repeat |
| RS | right side |
| sc | single crochet |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sk | skip |
| sp(s) | space(s) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| tr | treble crochet |
| WS | wrong side |
| yo | yarn over |
| * … * | repeat instructions between asterisks as directed |
| ( ) | stitch count or clarifying note |
| [ ] | repeat bracketed instructions as directed |

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## SPECIAL STITCHES

**Fan Cluster (Fan):**
Work (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in the same stitch or space. This creates a 3-dc fan with ch-1 spaces. *(5 sts/spaces total; counts as 1 fan unit)*

**Shell:**
Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same stitch or space. *(Shell = 4 dc + 1 ch-2 space)*

**Picot:**
Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook. *(Decorative knot used in edging)*

**V-Stitch (V-st):**
Work (dc, ch 2, dc) all in the same stitch or space.

**Center Spine Increase (CSI):**
Work (dc, ch 2, dc) in the designated center ch-2 space. This is the increase point at the center of every RS row that maintains the triangular spine.

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. The shawl is worked **top-down** from the center of the top edge outward, increasing on every RS row to form a symmetrical triangle.
2. **Right Side (RS) rows** are the increase rows where the lace pattern expands. **Wrong Side (WS) rows** are simpler connector rows.
3. The shawl is worked **flat** (back and forth in rows), turning at the end of each row.
4. **Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as 1 dc** throughout this pattern.
5. The lace repeat is **6 stitches wide**. One complete repeat is added to **each side** of the center spine on every RS row.
6. Place a locking stitch marker in the **center ch-2 space** (the CSI point) at the end of each row. Move the marker up as you work.
7. The **edging** is worked after all body rows are complete, around the entire perimeter of the shawl.
8. **Blocking is not optional** for this pattern — the lace will not open fully without wet blocking.

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## STITCH PATTERN GUIDE

The body of the shawl uses a repeating lace motif based on the following 2-row sequence (established after the foundation section). Understanding the structure before you begin will make the pattern much easier to follow.

**RS (Increase) Row Structure:**
`[Edge sts] — [Lace repeat × n] — [Center Spine] — [Lace repeat × n] — [Edge sts]`

**WS (Return) Row Structure:**
A simpler row of dc and ch-1 spacers that sets up the next RS row.

The lace repeat worked on RS rows is:
`sk 2 sts, Fan in next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc in next st` *(= 6 sts consumed, 1 lace unit made)*

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## FOUNDATION

**Step 1 — Starting Chain:**
Ch 6. Join with sl st to form a ring. *(Optional: work a magic ring instead.)*

**Step 2 — Foundation Row (RS):**
Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch-2 sp), dc in ring, ch 2, dc in ring, ch 2, dc in ring. *(4 dc + 3 ch-2 sps)*

This creates the initial center spine: the **middle ch-2 space** is your Center Spine point; the outer ch-2 spaces will form the top corners. Mark the center ch-2 space with a stitch marker.

> **Stitch Count:** 4 dc + 3 ch-2 spaces

**Step 3 — Row 1 (WS — Setup Row):**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn. Dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in center ch-2 sp [CSI made], ch 1, dc in last ch-2 sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch-5.

> **Stitch Count:** 6 dc + 2 ch-1 sps + 1 ch-2 sp (center)

**Step 4 — Row 2 (RS — First Lace Row):**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn. DC in ch-1 sp, ch 2, **[Fan in next dc, ch 2, dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2]** — CSI: (dc, ch 2, dc) in center ch-2 sp — ch 2, **[Fan in next dc, ch 2, dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2]**, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in top of ch-3.

> **Stitch Count:** 14 dc + 6 ch-2 sps + 1 Fan per side (5 sts each fan)

*Note: At this stage the stitch count is modest; the shawl grows quickly.*

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## BODY PATTERN

After completing the Foundation (Steps 1–4 above), you will work the Main Body using the following two alternating row types. The lace repeat count per side increases by 1 repeat every RS row.

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### WS ROW (Connector Row)
*Worked after every RS row.*

Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn.

*[Work across to center spine as follows:]*

**Working across to center:**
Dc in each dc and Fan dc; work ch 1 over each ch-2 sp. When you reach the center ch-2 sp: **(dc, ch 2, dc) in center ch-2 sp [CSI].**

**Working back to edge:**
Continue mirroring: ch 1 over each ch-2 sp; dc in each dc and Fan dc.

End with: dc in top of turning ch-3.

> **Structure:** Each WS row creates a rhythm of dc columns separated by ch-1 spaces, with the center ch-2 still prominent and marked. This sets up the ch-sps needed for Fans on the next RS row.

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### RS ROW (Lace Increase Row)
*Worked after every WS row.*

Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn.

**Left edge:** Dc in first ch-1 sp.

**Lace section (left side):** *Rep the following across to 1 ch-sp before center:*
`[ch 2, Fan in next dc, ch 2, dc in next ch-1 sp]`

**Center Spine Increase:** Ch 2, **(dc, ch 2, dc) in center ch-2 sp.**

**Lace section (right side):** *Rep the following across to last ch-1 sp:*
`[ch 2, Fan in next dc, ch 2, dc in next ch-1 sp]`

**Right edge:** Ch 2, dc in top of turning ch-3.

> **Each RS row adds 1 complete Fan unit to each side** of the center spine, growing the shawl by 1 lace repeat per side per RS row.

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## ROW-BY-ROW INSTRUCTIONS

Work the Foundation (Steps 1–4), then alternate **WS Row / RS Row** as follows. Stitch counts and repeat counts are given as checkpoints.

> **Reading the repeat counts:** "n repeats per side" means that many Fan-based lace units appear on each side of the center spine.

| Row # | Row Type | Fans per Side | Approx. Row Width |
|---|---|---|---|
| Foundation | Setup | 0 | 2 inches |
| Row 1 | WS | — | — |
| Row 2 | RS | 1 per side | 4 inches |
| Row 3 | WS | — | — |
| Row 4 | RS | 2 per side | 6 inches |
| Row 5 | WS | — | — |
| Row 6 | RS | 3 per side | 8.5 inches |
| … | … | … | … |
| Row 28 | RS | 14 per side | ~52 inches |
| Row 29 | WS | — | — |
| Row 30 | RS | 15 per side | ~54 inches |

> Continue alternating WS and RS rows through **Row 30 (RS)** for the dimensions listed in Finished Measurements. For a larger shawl, continue adding rows in pairs (1 WS + 1 RS) until desired size, adding approx. 1.8 inches (4.5 cm) to the depth and approx. 3.6 inches (9 cm) to the wingspan per pair of rows. For a smaller shawl, stop earlier — Row 20 (RS) yields approximately 37-inch (94 cm) wingspan and 18-inch (46 cm) depth.

**Stitch Count Check at Row 30 (RS):**
- 15 Fan clusters per side = 15 × 3 dc = 45 fan dc per side
- 15 "bridge" dc per side (between fans) = 15 dc per side
- Center spine = 2 dc + 1 ch-2
- 2 edge dc (one at each end)
- Total dc (not including ch-sps): 45 + 15 + 45 + 15 + 2 + 2 = **124 dc**
- Plus ch-sps throughout
- ✅ Consistent with stated growth rate

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## EDGING

After completing Row 30 (RS) or your final RS row, do **not** fasten off. Continue directly into the edging.

### Round 1 — Picot Border Setup

With RS facing and yarn attached at top right corner:

**Across top edge:** Sl st evenly across the top of the shawl (working into the tops of the starting chain and the side of the first few rows): *[sc, ch 3, sc] in corner sp, then work sc evenly across top edge, placing a sc in each row-end dc and sl st in each ch-sp* to center top, then continue to left corner. Aim for an odd number of sc across the top.

**Down left slanted edge:** *[Ch 3, sl st in last sc made (Picot), sc in next row-end st or sp]* rep across entire left edge to bottom point.

**At bottom point:** *(Sc, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, sc)* in bottom point ch-2 sp. *(Double picot at bottom point)*

**Up right slanted edge:** *[Picot, sc in next row-end st or sp]* rep across entire right edge back to start.

Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

> **Tip:** Work the edging at a slightly tighter tension than the body for a crisp, defined border. If the edging ruffles, go down a hook size for the edging only.

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## FINISHING

**Weaving In Ends:**
Use a tapestry needle to weave in all yarn ends securely. For lace, weave ends in two directions (forward and back) to prevent unraveling when blocked. Trim ends close.

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## BLOCKING INSTRUCTIONS

> **Blocking is essential for this pattern.** Lace crochet will not drape or show the stitch pattern correctly without blocking. Do not skip this step.

### Wet Blocking Method (Recommended)

**You will need:** Basin of lukewarm water, clean towels, blocking mats, rust-proof T-pins, measuring tape.

**Step 1 — Soak:**
Fill a clean basin with lukewarm water. Submerge the shawl completely and gently press it into the water. Do not agitate or wring. Allow to soak for 15–20 minutes until fully saturated.

**Step 2 — Remove Excess Water:**
Gently lift the shawl out of the water, supporting its full weight. Lay it flat on a clean dry towel. Roll the towel up with the shawl inside and gently press (do not twist) to remove excess water. Unroll and repeat with a second dry towel if needed. The shawl should be damp, not dripping.

**Step 3 — Pin Out:**
Lay blocking mats on a flat surface. Place the shawl on the mats with the RS facing up. Begin pinning:
- Pin the **center top** first, pulling upward slightly.
- Pin the **two top corner points**, pulling outward to achieve the desired wingspan.
- Pin the **bottom point**, pulling downward to open the depth.
- Work along all three edges, placing pins every 1–2 inches, gently stretching the lace open. The fan motifs should open fully.
- Use your measuring tape to verify you are achieving the target 54-inch wingspan and 27-inch depth.

**Step 4 — Dry:**
Allow to dry completely at room temperature — this typically takes 12–24 hours depending on humidity. Do not use a heat source (radiator, hair dryer) as this can damage yarn fibers, especially wool or plant fibers. Do not remove pins until fully dry.

**Step 5 — Unpin:**
Once completely dry, remove pins. The shawl will hold its blocked shape. Lace items may need a light re-blocking after washing.

### Steam Blocking (Alternative for Synthetic Fibers)
If your yarn contains significant synthetic content (e.g., acrylic), wet blocking may not set the shape. Instead: Pin out the shawl dry, then hold a steam iron 1–2 inches above the surface and apply steam evenly. Do **not** press the iron directly onto the crochet. Allow to cool and dry fully before unpinning.

> ⚠️ **Caution:** Always check your yarn label before blocking. Superwash wool, cotton, linen, and bamboo block beautifully with wet blocking. 100% acrylic may require steam blocking. Do not steam block wool.

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## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

- **Hand wash** in cool water with a gentle wool wash or fiber-appropriate soap.
- **Do not wring or twist.**
- Lay flat to dry, re-pinning to shape if desired.
- **Do not tumble dry** or hang to dry (hanging will distort the triangular shape).
- Store folded loosely or rolled; do not compress under heavy objects.

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## YARN QUANTITY GUIDE

| Shawl Size | Wingspan | Depth | Approx. Yardage Needed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small (through Row 20) | ~37 in (94 cm) | ~18 in (46 cm) | ~450–500 yards |
| Medium (through Row 24) | ~45 in (114 cm) | ~22 in (56 cm) | ~600–650 yards |
| Full Size (through Row 30) | ~54 in (137 cm) | ~27 in (69 cm) | ~800–900 yards |
| Extra Large (through Row 36) | ~65 in (165 cm) | ~32 in (81 cm) | ~1,100–1,200 yards |

> Purchase an extra skein if you plan to add additional rows or if your gauge runs looser than stated.

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## QUICK-REFERENCE ROW SUMMARY

```
FOUNDATION:  Ch 6, join ring.
             Ch 5, dc in ring, [ch 2, dc in ring] × 2.

ROW 1 (WS):  Ch 3, dc in ch-sp, ch 1, CSI in center, ch 1,
             dc in ch-sp, dc in ch-3.

ROW 2 (RS):  Ch 3, dc in ch-sp, ch 2,
             *[Fan in dc, ch 2, dc in sp, ch 2]*,
             CSI in center,
             *[ch 2, Fan in dc, ch 2, dc in sp]*,
             ch 2, dc in ch-3.

WS ROWS:     Ch 3, dc across with ch-1 over each ch-sp,
             CSI in center ch-2 sp, mirror to end, dc in ch-3.

RS ROWS:     Ch 3, dc in ch-sp,
             *[ch 2, Fan in dc, ch 2, dc in next sp]* to center,
             CSI in center,
             *[ch 2, Fan in dc, ch 2, dc in next sp]* to end,
             ch 2, dc in ch-3.
             [+1 Fan per side each RS row]

EDGING:      Picot border worked around all 3 sides.
```

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*Pattern designed for advanced crocheters. Recommended for those comfortable with lace crochet, reading stitch patterns, and blocking fiber arts.*

*© Pattern for personal use. Not for resale or redistribution without permission.*

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